Shark fin soup

Last updated

Shark fin soup
Chinese cuisine-Shark fin soup-04.jpg
Alternative namesShark's fin soup
Type Soup
Place of origin China
Main ingredients Shark fins, broth
Shark fins and other shark parts for sale in a Chinese pharmacy in Yokohama, Japan Yokohama Chinese Medicine Shark fin etc.jpg
Shark fins and other shark parts for sale in a Chinese pharmacy in Yokohama, Japan

Shark fins are believed in Chinese culture to have properties of boosting sexual potency, enhancing skin quality, increasing qi or energy, preventing heart disease, and lowering cholesterol. [13] In traditional Chinese medicine, shark fins are believed to help in areas of rejuvenation, appetite enhancement, and blood nourishment and to be beneficial to vital energy, kidneys, lungs, bones, and many other parts of the body. [9]

There are claims that shark fins prevent cancer; [14] however, there is no scientific evidence, and one study found shark cartilage generally to be of no value in cancer treatment. [15] Furthermore, there is no scientific evidence that shark fins can be used to treat any medical condition. [9] Sharks biomagnify toxins, so eating shark meat may raise the risk of dementia and mercury poisoning. [16] [17] [18] [19]

WildAid, a wildlife non-governmental organization, warned that eating too much shark fin can cause sterility in men. [17] It is known that larger fish such as shark, tuna, and swordfish contain high levels of mercury and methylmercury salts. [16] For nursing mothers, young children, and pregnant women or those who wish to be, the United States Food and Drug Administration has advised avoiding consumption of fish high in mercury. [20] [21]

High concentrations of BMAA are present in shark fins. Because BMAA is a neurotoxin, consumption of shark fin soup and cartilage pills may pose a risk for degenerative brain diseases such as Alzheimer's and ALS, [18] [19] as well as Parkinson's disease. [18]

Counterfeit shark fins often also contain toxins. [22]

Market and demand

Restaurant sign-board, Chenghuangmiao, Shanghai, China (2009) Restaurant ad for shark fin soup.jpg
Restaurant sign-board, Chénghuángmiào, Shanghai, China (2009)

Early use

Shark fin soup was reported in Ming dynasty writings and by the Qing dynasty was considered a "traditional part of formal banquets"; in Chinese cuisine, it was considered to be one of the eight treasured foods from the sea. [23] It was popular with Chinese emperors because it was rare, and tasty only after a complicated and elaborate preparation. [24] By the time of the Qing dynasty, shark fin soup was in high demand. [25] [26] Its manual of cuisine, the Suiyuan shidan, indicates that the shark fin was eaten as soup, stew, and even as a stir-fry, but in all cases the fin had to be boiled for two days. [27]

The popularity of shark fin soup rose in the late-18th and early-19th centuries as standards of living began to improve. [4]

Demand peaks, c. 2000

In the late-20th century, shark fin soup was a popular delicacy in China, and was eaten in Chinese restaurants around the world. [28] [29] The increasing wealth of the middle class raised demand. [30] The shark fin trade more than doubled between 1985 and 2001. [31]

Based on information gathered from the Hong Kong trade in fins, the market was estimated in 2004 to be growing by five percent each year. [32] Consumption of shark fin soup had risen dramatically with the affluence of the middle class, as Chinese communities around the world enjoyed increasing income levels. [4] [31] [33] The high price of the soup meant it was often used as a way to impress guests, or for celebrations [34] such as weddings, banquets, and important business deals. [24] [35] [36] It was used to communicate wealth, power, and prestige, [35] [36] as it was believed to show respect, honor, and appreciation to guests as well as to intimidate them as the serving of such a dish often implies that the host is willing to use cruelty and brutality to achieve their goals, [24] [13] with 58% of those questioned in the WWF survey indicating they ate the soup at a celebration or gathering. [37]

In Hong Kong restaurants, where the market had been strong, demand from Hong Kong natives had reportedly dropped in 2006. This was more than balanced by an increase in demand from the Chinese mainland, [34] where economic growth put the expensive delicacy within the reach of an expanding middle class. [30]

A survey carried out in China in 2006 by WildAid and the Chinese Wildlife Conservation Association found that 35% of participants said they had consumed shark fin soup in the last year, [28] while 83% of participants in an online survey conducted by the World Wide Fund for Nature said that they had consumed shark fin soup at some time. [37]

Changes in demand, 2005–present

Yao Ming, a former NBA basketball player who campaigned against shark fin soup. Yao Ming Interview.jpg
Yao Ming, a former NBA basketball player who campaigned against shark fin soup.

The movement against shark fin soup began in 2006, when WildAid enlisted Chinese basketball star Yao Ming as spokesperson for a public relations campaign against the dish. The campaign was taken up by a coalition of Chinese businessmen, celebrities, and students. Businessman-turned-environmentalist Jim Zhang helped to raise concern within China's government, which pledged in 2012 to ban shark fin soup from official banquets within three years. [38]

In January 2013, China Daily reported that officials in Zhejiang province found that many shark fin soup restaurants were selling artificial shark fins, and that one-third of the samples that the officials had obtained contained dangerous amounts of cadmium and methylmercury. [22] [ unreliable source? ] Within two months of the China Daily report, China ordered officials throughout the country to stop serving dishes made from protected wildlife at official banquets, and the Hong Kong government issued a similar order in September. [38]

Consumption of shark fin soup in China has decreased. China's Ministry of Commerce indicated that consumption of shark fin soup during the 2013 spring break holiday had decreased by 50–70% from 2012, and Hong Kong industry groups reported that shark fin imports were down by 20–30% from 2012. [38] Also, anecdotal evidence points to a worldwide drop in shark fin prices and a move away from shark fishing in parts of Africa. [38] Shark fin soup has often been replaced by dishes featuring sea cucumbers. [39] : 270 

A 2016 poll from City University of Hong Kong and the Hong Kong Shark Foundation had 75% of local respondents saying they were "neutral" towards the soup at banquets, [40] while 90% of respondents said they would eat the dish if served to them, with the most popular justifications being to “avoid food waste” or to “show respect for their host”. [41]

A 2018 WildAid report mentioned Thailand as an emerging market for shark fin soup, citing a 2017 survey where 57% of urban Thai respondents consumed the dish, most commonly at weddings, restaurants, and business meetings. [42]

Ethical and environmental concerns

Finned sharks Shark finning.jpg
Finned sharks
Shark fin protest at Maxim's restaurant at the University of Hong Kong 10 February 2018 Maxim's-HKU-WildAid-Protest-11.jpg
Shark fin protest at Maxim's restaurant at the University of Hong Kong 10 February 2018

Shark fins used in the soup are the cartilaginous dorsal, pectoral and caudal fins. These are regularly harvested by a process known as shark finning, which takes only the fins and discards the carcass, alive or dead. Overfishing poses a major threat to the world's shark populations. [43]

Some groups, such as Fins Attached, Shark Savers, IUCN, Shark Angels, Shark Whisperer and the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, discourage consumption of the soup due to concerns with the world's shark population and how sharks are inhumanely finned alive and returned to the ocean, unable to swim, hunt or survive. The prevalence of shark finning and the sustainability of shark species are both debated. [44] [45] [46] As of 2011, major hotel operators such as Marriott International, The Peninsula Hotels and Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts stopped serving shark fin soup in favor of offering sustainable seafood. [47] [48] The largest supermarket chains in Singapore – Cold Storage and NTUC FairPrice  –have stopped selling shark fins, citing sustainability concerns. [49] Hong Kong Disneyland dropped the soup from its menu after it could not find a sustainable source. [50]

Malaysia's Natural Resources and Environment Ministry banned shark fin soup from official functions in a commitment to the Malaysian Nature Society to conserve the shark species. [51]

In the United States, Hawaii, [52] Washington, [53] Oregon, [54] [55] California, [56] Guam, [57] and the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands have banned the sale and possession of shark fins, effectively eliminating the availability of the soup. [58] Illinois, which had been a large importer of shark fins, was the fifth U.S. state, and the first non-Pacific state, to implement a ban on shark fin trade. [59] In 2011, U.S. President Barack Obama signed the Shark Conservation Act, closing loopholes used to obtain shark fins. [60] In October 2011, California governor Jerry Brown, citing the cruelty of finning and potential threats to the environment and commercial fishing, signed Assembly Bill 376, banning the possession and sale of detached shark fins. [56] [61] Two Chinese American groups challenged the law in federal court, arguing among other things that it was discriminatory against the Chinese-American community. The federal courts rejected these claims. [62]

In Canada, the Vancouver city council decided to work towards creating a ban to preserve shark species. [63] Toronto joined other regional municipalities in adopting a shark fin ban on 13 October 2011. [64] The Ontario Superior Court of Justice overturned the Toronto bylaw, as it was outside the powers of the city. [65] Calgary banned shark fin soup on 16 July 2012, [66] but in May 2013 shelved the bylaw indefinitely. [67]

On 2 July 2012, the State Council of the People's Republic of China declared that shark fin soup can no longer be served at official banquets. This ban may take up to three years to take effect because of the social significance of the dish in Chinese culture. [68]

The marine conservation organization Bite-Back has campaigned against the sale of shark fin soup in Britain. On the back of its campaigning, the London-based Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant Hakkasan agreed to stop selling the soup. [69] High-profile names such as Gordon Ramsay, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, and Charles Clover, author of The End of the Line: How Overfishing Is Changing the World and What We Eat , have lent their support to the charity's 'Hacked Off' campaign. [70] In 2019, environmental NGO WildAid partnered with Plan B Media on a public awareness campaign to discourage sharkfin soup consumption in Taiwan. [71]

Imitation shark fin soup

Shark fin soup
Traditional Chinese 魚翅羹
Simplified Chinese 鱼翅羹
Literal meaning"fish fin stew"
Imitation shark fin soup
Imitation shark fin soup (2020) Clovis, CA(1).jpg
A bowl of imitation shark fin soup, served in 2020 in California for a Chinese American family during the eve of Chinese New Year.
Alternative namesMock shark fin soup, vegetarian shark fin soup
Type Soup
Place of origin China
Region or state Hong Kong
Main ingredientsImitation shark fins (may use konjac gel, cellophane noodles, vermicelli, shark fin melon, or other alternatives), broth

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  76. ↑ Wei, Clarissa (15 July 2013). "Where To Get Faux Shark Fin in Los Angeles". KCETLink. KCETLink Media Group. Retrieved 13 December 2017.
  77. ↑ Kho, Kian (2015). Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees: Essential Techniques of Authentic Chinese Cooking. New York: Clarkson Potter. p. 278. ISBN   9780385344692.
  78. ↑ Kho, Kian (July 2010). "Banning Shark Fins from Shark Fin Soup". Red Cook. Retrieved 5 September 2016.
  79. ↑ Najarro, Ileana; Singer, Jeffrey E. (27 August 2015). "Customers Embrace Shark Fin Substitutes". The New York Times.
  80. ↑ "Faux Fins Could Save 70 Million Sharks". Seeker.com. Group Nine. 17 November 2015. Retrieved 28 May 2017.
  81. ↑ Galbraith, Alex (31 March 2016). "Get Ready For Shark Fin Cup Noodles Soup". Uproxx. Retrieved 31 May 2017.
  82. ↑ "食家憂碗仔翅留不住". Apple Daily 蘋果日報.

Further reading

Imitation shark fin soup
Traditional Chinese 碗仔翅
Simplified Chinese 碗仔翅
Jyutping wun2 zai2 ci3
Hanyu Pinyin wǎn zǎi chì
Literal meaningFin in little bowl
Fish
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Shellfish
Other seafood
Processed
seafood
Seafood dishes
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