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Der Szurdse Kund aus Suden mit der Morane des Milam-Gletschers.jpg
Hardeol (left) and Tirsuli I, photo by Kurt Boeck  in 1890
Highest point
Elevation 7,074 m (23,209 ft) [1]
Prominence 624 m (2,047 ft) [2]
Coordinates 30°34′48″N80°01′12″E / 30.58000°N 80.02000°E / 30.58000; 80.02000 Coordinates: 30°34′48″N80°01′12″E / 30.58000°N 80.02000°E / 30.58000; 80.02000 [3]
India relief location map.jpg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Location in India
Location Pithoragarh district, Uttarakhand, India
Parent range Kumaon Himalaya
First ascent 1966, N. Mallik(Dy.leader, S. Chakravorty, Tashi (Sherpa), Dorji (Sherpa)
Easiest route East Face of Southeast Ridge to Southeast Ridge: snow/ice climb

Tirsuli is a Himalayan mountain peak in the Pithoragarh district of Kumaon Uttarakhand, India. It is part of the complex of mountains, including Tirsuli West, Hardeol, Dunagiri, Changabang, and Kalanka, which make up the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, in the Garhwal Himalaya. It rises at the northern end of the Johar Valley, which drains into the Ghori Ganga. This peak should not be confused with nearby Trisul, which is on the southwest side of the Sanctuary.

Pithoragarh district District in Uttarakhand, India

Pithoragarh district is the easternmost Himalayan district in the state of Uttarakhand, India. It is naturally landscaped with high Himalayan mountains, snow-capped peaks, passes, valleys, alpine meadows, forests, waterfalls, perennial rivers, glaciers, and springs. The flora and fauna of the area have rich ecological diversity. Pithoragarh has many temples and ruined forts from the once flourishing reign of the warrior Chand Kingdom.

Kumaon division administrative division of Uttarakhand, India

For Kumaoni people see Kumaoni people

Uttarakhand State in Northern India

Uttarakhand, officially the State of Uttarakhand, formerly known as Uttaranchal, is a state considered to be part of central, northern and north-central India. It is often referred to as the Devabhumi due to a large number of Hindu temples and pilgrimage centres found throughout the state. Uttarakhand is known for the natural environment of the Himalayas, the Bhabhar and the Terai. On 9 November 2000, Uttarakhand became the 27th state of the Republic of India, being created from the Himalayan districts of Uttar Pradesh. It borders Tibet to the north; the Sudurpashchim Pradesh of Nepal to the east; the Indian states of Uttar Pradesh to the south and Himachal Pradesh to the west and north-west as well as Haryana on its south-western corner. The state is divided into two divisions, Garhwal and Kumaon, with a total of 13 districts. The interim capital of Uttarakhand is Dehradun, the largest city of the state, which is a railhead. The High Court of the state is located in Nainital.

In 1939, a serious attempt on this peak by the successful Polish expedition to Nanda Devi East was abandoned after a night avalanche buried leader Adam Karpinski and climber Stefan Bernadzikiewicz at Camp 3. [4] [5] Indian team led by Mohan Singh Kohli from Indian Mountaineering Foundation, under Ministry of Defence, Government of India tried an unsuccessful attempt to the peak in 1964. Another team led by K. P. Sharma and organized by Himalayan Association attempted the peak in 1965, but turned back from about 18,000 ft (5,500 m). [6] [7] [8] The peak was scaled for the first time on 9 October 1966 by another Indian team led by Chanchal Kumar Mitra & organised for the 2nd. time by Himalayan Association of calcutta. They ascended the east face of the south-east ridge and then took the south-east ridge to the top, mounting the summit bid from Camp 5, at about 21,860 ft (6,660 m). Nirapada Mallik (Dy.leader), Shyamal Chakrabarty, Nima Tashi ( former Dy.Director of training at The HMI Darjeeling) and Dorji sherpa were the summitters. Other members of the team were Manik Banerjee, K.K.Khanna, Marcopolo Srimal, Dr. Jungpangi from Geological Survey of India, Dr.Amitava Sen(M.O), Pinaki Sinha and Sailesh Chakraborty. The expedition was organised by the Himalayan Association, Kolkata. [9]

Poland republic in Central Europe

Poland, officially the Republic of Poland, is a country located in Central Europe. It is divided into 16 administrative subdivisions, covering an area of 312,696 square kilometres (120,733 sq mi), and has a largely temperate seasonal climate. With a population of approximately 38.5 million people, Poland is the sixth most populous member state of the European Union. Poland's capital and largest metropolis is Warsaw. Other major cities include Kraków, Łódź, Wrocław, Poznań, Gdańsk, and Szczecin.

Captain Manmohan Singh Kohli is an internationally renowned Indian mountaineer. An officer in the Indian Navy who joined the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, he led the 1965 Indian expedition which put nine men on the summit of Everest, a world record which lasted for 17 years.

Kolkata Capital city of West Bengal, India

Kolkata is the capital of the Indian state of West Bengal. Located on the east bank of the Hooghly River approximately 75 kilometres (47 mi) west of the border with Bangladesh, it is the principal commercial, cultural, and educational centre of East India, while the Port of Kolkata is India's oldest operating port and its sole major riverine port. The city is widely regarded as the "cultural capital" of India, and is also nicknamed the "City of Joy". According to the 2011 Indian census, it is the seventh most populous city; the city had a population of 4.5 million, while the suburb population brought the total to 14.1 million, making it the third-most populous metropolitan area in India. Recent estimates of Kolkata Metropolitan Area's economy have ranged from $60 to $150 billion making it third most-productive metropolitan area in India, after Mumbai and Delhi.

Expedition team Tirsuli group.jpg
Expedition team

See also

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Nanda Devi is the second highest mountain in India, and the highest located entirely within the country. It is the 23rd-highest peak in the world. It was considered the highest mountain in the world before computations in 1808 proved Dhaulagiri to be higher. It was also the highest mountain in India before 1975 when Sikkim, the state in which Kangchenjunga is located, joined the Republic of India. It is part of the Garhwal Himalayas, and is located in Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, between the Rishiganga valley on the west and the Goriganga valley on the east. The peak, whose name means "Bliss-Giving Goddess", is regarded as the patron-goddess of the Uttarakhand Himalaya. In acknowledgment of its religious significance and for the protection of its fragile ecosystem, the peak as well as the circle of high mountains surrounding it—the Nanda Devi sanctuary—were closed to both locals and climbers in 1983. The surrounding Nanda Devi National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988.

Kamet mountain

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Hardeol mountain in India

Hardeol or 'Temple of God' is one of the major peaks of the Kumaon Himalaya. It is the highest peak on the northern side of the ring of peaks guarding the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, and lies at the northeast corner of this ring. It is situated at the northern end of the Milam valley, in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand, India. To its immediate north lies Trishuli, and just south is Rishi Pahar, on a north-south trending ridge leading eventually to Nanda Devi East. Hardeol is also known as Trishuli South.

Nanda Kot mountain in India

Nanda Kot is a mountain peak of the Himalaya range located in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand state in India. It lies in the Kumaon Himalaya, just outside the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, 15 kilometres (9 mi) southeast of Nanda Devi itself. The name Nanda Kot literally means "Nanda's Fortress" and refers to the abode of one of the sacred forms of the Hindu Goddess Parvati who in legend has made her sanctuary amongst the ring of lofty mountains in the region.

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Trisul mountain

Trisul is a group of three Himalayan mountain peaks of western Kumaun, with the highest reaching 7120m. The three peaks resemble a trident - in Hindi/Sanskrit, Trishula, trident, is the weapon of Shiva. The Trishul group forms the southwest corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, about 15 kilometres (9 mi) west-southwest of Nanda Devi itself. The main peak, Trisul I, was the first peak over 7,000 m (22,970 ft) to have ever been climbed, in 1907.

Nilkantha (mountain) mountain

Nilkantha is a major peak of the Garhwal division of the Himalayas, in the Uttarakhand region of the Indian state of Uttarakhand. Although substantially lower than the highest peaks of the region, it towers dramatically over the valley of the Alaknanda River and rises 3,474 metres (11,398 ft) above the Hindu pilgrimage site of Badrinath, only 9 km (6 mi) to the east. Frank Smythe described the peak as "second only to Siniolchu in Himalayan beauty."

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Thalay Sagar mountain

Thalay Sagar is a mountain in the Gangotri Group of peaks in the western Garhwal Himalayas, on the main ridge that lies south of the Gangotri Glacier. It lies in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand, 10 kilometres (6 mi) southwest of the Hindu holy site of Gaumukh. It is the second highest peak on the south side of the Gangotri Glacier, but it is more notable for being a dramatic rock peak, steep on all sides, and a famed prize for mountaineers. It is adjacent to the Jogen group of peaks, and has the lake Kedartal at its base.

Dunagiri (mountain) mountain

Dunagiri is one of the high peaks of the Chamoli District Himalayas in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand. It lies at the northwest corner of the Sanctuary Wall, a ring of peaks surrounding Nanda Devi and enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.

Shipton–Tilman Nanda Devi expeditions Himalayan mountaineering expeditions in 1930s

The Shipton–Tilman Nanda Devi expeditions took place in the 1930s. Nanda Devi is a Himalayan mountain in what was then the Garhwal District in northern India, just west of Nepal, and at one time it was thought to be the highest mountain in the world.


  1. Garhwal-Himalaya Ost (map, 1:150,000), Swiss Foundation of Alpine Research.
  2. This is an approximate figure. See Garhwal-Himalaya Ost (map, 1:150,000), Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
  3. The Alpine Club's Himalayan Index. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation quarterly Newsletter No.16 gives a slightly different figure.
  4. Jill Neate, High Asia: An illustrated history of the 7000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989, 0-89886-238-8, p. 89.
  5. Himalayan Journal Vol. 12, p. 65.
  6. Himalayan Association Journal, Vol. 2.
  7. Joydeep Sircar, Himalayan handbook, Calcutta, 1979.
  8. Himalayan Mountaineering Journal, Vol. 1, No.2, p. 73.
  9. Himalayan Journal 27, p. 67.