Academic dress of the University of St Andrews

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Academic dress at the University of St Andrews involves students wearing distinctive academic gowns whilst studying at the University of St Andrews. Undergraduate gowns in Scotland were once common at all the ancient universities of Scotland, with each having its own distinctive style. St Andrews undergraduates wear either a scarlet gown if they are part of the United College and studying in the Faculties of Arts, Medicine and Science, or a black gown if they are part of St Mary's College and studying in the Faculty of Divinity.

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"St Andrews is the only one of the Scottish universities where the gown is still seen frequently in the twenty-first century. It is worn to chapel services, formal dinners in the halls of residence, meetings of the Union Debating Society, by student ambassadors who give guided tours of the University to visitors and by a few to examinations. Most conspicuously, it is worn for the traditional pier walk, which takes place each Sunday in term-time after chapel." [1]

Until 2012 postgraduate students wore the gown of their earlier academic achievement before joining. In that year The St Leonard's College Society of the university introduced a black gown faced with burgundy for the use of those who do not have academic dress in order to integrate such students into the tradition of gown wearing present at St Andrews. Graduates may continue to use either the academic dress of their earlier degree or the newly introduced St Leonard's College gown. Graduates in St Mary's College, however, always wear the degree gown of a graduate with a violet saltire cross added to the left facing.

The officials of the University, including the Chancellor, Principal, and Rector have distinctive gowns attached to their office, with the claim that the Rector's is based on the mediaeval style of academic dress. Student officers of the University of St Andrews Students' Association and the Athletic Union have gowns which have both the coat of arms of the University and the coat of arms of either the Students' Association or the Athletic Union, which they may wear during their year in elected office.

Use of academic dress

Academic dress has been worn in the University of St Andrews since mediaeval times. [2] Academic dress is compulsory at official ceremonial occasions, such as graduation and the installations of Rector and Chancellor. Gowns may be worn at any time throughout St Andrews. They are recommended for formal dinners in the halls of residence and are traditionally worn to chapel, to 'Pier Walks', and to debates of the Union Debating Society. Gowns are also always worn by University Ambassadors when conducting tours of the University grounds for prospective students and by the collegiate chapel choirs of St Salvator and St Leonard. [3]

Even though most students will buy a gown during their time in the university, its requirement is no longer enforced.

University officials

The officials of the University of St Andrews each have a specific gown specified in regulations, with the Chancellor wearing a black gown trimmed with gold that resembles the state robes worn by the Lord Chancellor or the Speaker of the House of Commons. [4] The Vice-Chancellor, who is the Chancellor's depute for the awarding of degrees, [5] wears a similar gown trimmed with silver. The Principal, the chief executive of the University, wears a purple silk gown, and the Rector wears a purple-blue silk gown (claimed to be based on a mediaeval design). Other officers including Vice-Principals, the Master of the United College, the Principal of St Mary's College, the Provost of St Leonard's College and the Deans of the Faculties wear gowns distinctive to their office. The description of their academic dress in full: [6]

Undergraduate dress

Gowned St Andrews undergraduates on the town pier. St Andrews gowns.jpg
Gowned St Andrews undergraduates on the town pier.

Undergraduate students in the United College (in full, United College of St Salvator and St Leonard), who are members of the Faculties of Arts, Medicine, and Science wear a scarlet cloth gown of knee length with open sleeves half the length of the gown and a burgundy velveteen collar. [9] Undergraduates of St Mary's College who are members of the Faculty of Divinity wear a black stuff gown of knee length with short open sleeves and with a violet cross of St Andrew on the left facing. [10] At formal occasions, undergraduates, especially those in the University's Chapel Choirs, use the gown as part of the subfusc outfit which is required on such occasions. The gowns used to be compulsory in lectures and tutorials, and it was mandatory for students to wear it around town to identify undergraduates, but since the middle of the 20th century the wearing of the gown, while encouraged, is voluntary. [11]

Students in the United College, by tradition, wear the gown differently depending on their year of study: [12] [13]

The red undergraduate gown was a source of controversy in 2018 when the University of St Andrews took legal action against an independent supplier, Churchill Gowns, which had offered the gowns for sale at a lower price than the University Shop. [14] [15] [16]

Postgraduate dress

In 2012 a new St Leonard's College gown was introduced for those members of that College whose original universities do not have academic dress. This is black gown faced with burgundy. It was introduced so as to better integrate those postgraduates whose original universities do not have academic dress into the gown tradition at St Andrews. St Andrews graduates wear the gown of their degree as may those of other universities, or they may choose to wear the St Leonard's College gown. Graduate students in St Mary's College wear the graduate gown with a violet cross on the left facing.

Otherwise graduates wear the gown of the highest degree conferred upon them with or without the appropriate hood, depending upon the occasion. Doctors wear undress, a black stuff or silk gown with long closed sleeves, when teaching and during other informal occasions and full-dress, a silk gown of the colour of the appropriate faculty, on festal occasions. [17]

Graduation

Bahram Beyzai in a St Andrews black cassock, having just received a D.Litt. honoris causa, June 2017 Beyzai in a St Andrews cassock having received a D.Litt. honoris causa 2017.jpg
Bahram Beyzai in a St Andrews black cassock, having just received a D.Litt. honoris causa, June 2017

Gowns

All in attendance at graduation ceremonies are expected to wear subfusc , which comprises a dark lounge suit and a white shirt and white bow-tie for gentlemen and dark trousers or skirt and a white blouse for ladies. Gowns and caps appropriate to a person's degree or official position within the university are worn according to the rules set down by the Senatus Academicus. [18] [6]

Hoods

Hoods of graduates in all faculties are in a modified London pattern, with rounded corners to the cape and an angled liripipe. [6]

Student officers

The University of St Andrews Students' Association and Athletic Union have several elected positions which entitle the holder to wear a gown emblazoned with the coats of arms of the Students' Association or Athletic Union and the coat of arms of the University.

Additionally, the President of St Mary's College is entitled to wear a graduate dress gown with lace adornments on the sleeve and purple silk lapels. The gown has the shield of St Mary's College on the left breast in fine stitching and bronze filigree.

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References

  1. Cooper, Jonathan C. (2010). "The Scarlet Gown: History and Development of Scottish Undergraduate Dress". Transactions of the Burgon Society. 10. doi: 10.4148/2475-7799.1082 .
  2. Cooper, J. C., 'Academical Dress in Late Medieval and Renaissance Scotland', Medieval Clothing and Textiles, 12 (2016), pp. 109-30. (Available here Archived 2018-11-09 at the Wayback Machine )
  3. "Red Gowns and Raisins - BBC Radio Scotland". BBC Radio Scotland. BBC. 21 April 2014. Retrieved 6 May 2017.
  4. "BBC News | UK POLITICS | The role of the Speaker". news.bbc.co.uk. BBC. 18 October 2000. Retrieved 6 May 2017.
  5. "University of St Andrews: The Principal and Vice-Chancellor". University of St Andrews. Archived from the original on 2017-03-29. Retrieved 2017-05-06.
  6. 1 2 3 "Graduation Ceremony | Faculty of Arts / Faculty of Science | University of St Andrews". www.st-andrews.ac.uk (PDF). University of St Andrews. 27 June 2014. Retrieved 6 May 2017.
  7. Cooper, Jonathan C. (2012). "The Dress of Rectors at the Scottish Universities". Transactions of the Burgon Society. 12. doi: 10.4148/2475-7799.1099 .
  8. "The Changing Face of Graduation" (PDF). The StAndard (5). University of St Andrews: 22. June 2005. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2013-04-09. Retrieved 6 May 2017.
  9. Cooper, Jonathan C. (1 January 2010). "The Scarlet Gown: History and Development of Scottish Undergraduate Dress". Transactions of the Burgon Society. 10 (1). doi: 10.4148/2475-7799.1082 . ISSN   2475-7799.
  10. St Mary's College (5 September 2016). "Pre-Sess TT 1995/96". www.st-andrews.ac.uk. University of St Andrews. Retrieved 6 May 2017. For undergraduates in the M.Theol. and B.D. programmes the description of the appropriate gown is: Black stuff gown of knee length with short open sleeves and with violet cross of St Andrew (BCC 214 - Spectrum violet) on the left facing.
  11. Liquid Grain, Kathryn (30 June 2016). "University of St Andrews - Red Academic Gown Photo Shoot". www.liquidgrain.co.uk. Retrieved 6 May 2017.
  12. "Unique university traditions | University of St. Andrews". www.st-andrews.ac.uk. University of St Andrews. 2015. Archived from the original on 7 October 2015. Retrieved 6 May 2017.
  13. "St Andrews University Traditions - Part 1". Ardgowan Hotel. 26 August 2014. Retrieved 6 May 2017.[ permanent dead link ]
  14. Lyons, Izzy (26 November 2018). "University of St Andrews launches legal battle against Churchill Gowns for 'copying' traditional red cloak". The Telegraph. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  15. "Historic red gown worn by St Andrews University students mired in legal wrangle". The Herald Scotland. 26 November 2018. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  16. McLaughlin, Mark (27 November 2018). "Cut-price university gowns have St Andrews seeing red". The Times. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  17. "2012 | Black gowns introduced for students at St Andrews | University of St Andrews". www.st-andrews.ac.uk. 2 April 2012. Archived from the original on 3 October 2015. Retrieved 6 May 2017.
  18. "What to wear | University of St Andrews". www.st-andrews.ac.uk. University of St Andrews. Retrieved 6 May 2017.