The academic dress of Durham University has many similarities with that of other older British universities such as Oxford and Cambridge. Most colleges of Durham University insist on gowns being worn on formal occasions, including matriculation and formal halls (dinners); exceptions are Van Mildert, St Cuthbert's Society (matriculation and selected dinners only), Collingwood, Stephenson, St Aidans, and The College of St Hild and St Bede (matriculation only). Some colleges also insist on their being worn to Junior Common Room meetings, and they are often seen in college chapels. At formal halls, only gowns are worn and doctors normally wear their undress gowns; for more ceremonial occasions full-dress gowns and hoods are worn by graduates. Until 1990, the General Regulations of university 'recommended' the wearing of gowns by members of the university when attending divine service at the Cathedral [1] – but this is now left to individual choice apart from at certain services (such as the Founders and Benefactors service). Gowns are also customarily worn to meetings of the university Senate by members of that body.
Regulations on the wearing of undergraduate gowns in college are technically set by the colleges themselves, but in many colleges the regulations are decided by the JCRs. Note that as some colleges do not wear undergraduate gowns, it is entirely possible to pass through an undergraduate degree at Durham, graduate in absentia, and never have to wear a gown. Alternatively, by attending a college with frequent formals (twice a week at Castle, Chad's and Hatfield) and attending evensong at the cathedral regularly, it is possible to spend a fair proportion of one's time whilst attending the university in a gown.
Regulations on academic dress can be found in the University Calendar.
The official robemakers to the University are William Gray and Son. [2] The company, successor to Sewell and Son, was established in 1871 and currently has premises on Neville Street.
There are four main gowns in the Durham scheme, corresponding to the four levels within the university: Undergraduates, Bachelors, Masters, and Doctors. With the exception of the full-dress doctors' gowns, all Durham gowns are black. For a further explanation of gown classifications, see Groves classification system.
A knee-length gown gathered at the yoke with elbow-length square sleeves, but with the forearm seam opened about four inches from the bottom. Different undergraduate gowns have been used for different faculties at various times. The original undergraduate gown was short, similar to that used at Oxford, but this was changed after a petition from the students to Senate to a longer gown, similar to the Oxford scholars gown. At some time (described as "recent" in 1932) an attempt was made to introduce a purple undergraduate gown, but this did not catch on. [3] In 1904 the undergraduate gowns were: [4]
In 1936 the undergraduate gowns were: [5]
The Science and Arts gowns remained the same in 1995, and Commerce used the same gown as arts, while Medicine was no longer offered at Durham after 1963. [6] The shape is [u4] in the Groves classification system. [7] The Arts, Commerce and Science gowns remained in 2012, with the Theology gown returning and being described as Oxford BA [b8] shape. [8]
The Hild and Bede college gown, retained from before the college became a constituent college of the university, differs from other Durham gowns in being made of brocaded fabric and being shorter ([u5] – the same shape as the Oxford commoner's gown). [8] The St Chad's undergraduate gown (rarely seen outside of matriculation) is the same shape as the Arts gown, but adds two black buttons at the lower end of the forearm, joined across the slit by 5 inches of twisted green cord. [8]
Scholars also wear a distinctive gown. In 1904 this followed the pattern of the Arts gown but with no opening on the arm seam ([u2] – the same as the Oxford scholar's gown), [4] and this remained the case in 1995. [6] In 2011 the university sanctioned the use of a different gown, described as "Black cord, pointed sleeve, with cord and button, edged with palatinate ribbon one inch wide." [9]
A full-length gown, coming to somewhere between mid-calf and the ankle, with pointed sleeves hanging down almost as far and a black cord and button on the yoke. The major difference between this and the BA gown worn at many other British universities is that the forearm seam is opened for 15–25 cm above the wrist, where it is held closed with a button and loop. The arm can then be passed through the opening so the arm is exposed from around the elbow rather than being covered to the wrist. The shape is referred to as [b5] in the Groves classification system. [6] [8]
The bachelors' gown is used by all bachelors. It is also used for the four-year integrated masters' courses, such as the MEng and the MSci, and for postgraduate diplomas and certificates. [8]
The masters' gown is identical to the Oxford MA gown [m1], with the addition of a black cord and button on the yoke. [6] It has long, rectangular sleeves that are closed at the ends, with a crescent cut out of each sleeve-end, and a horizontal arm-slit just above the elbow.
The masters' gown is used for post-graduate masters courses and as the undress gown for doctors (the only exceptions being the MMus and undress DMus gowns - see 'Music degrees' below). Doctors of Divinity wear the masters' gown with a black silk scarf, while the junior doctors (PhDs and EdDs) are distinguished by a palatinate cord and button on the yoke.
The doctors' full-dress gown is a scarlet cassimere gown, except brocaded white satin for DMus and scarlet Panama for the DBA and DThM, in the Oxford shape [d2]: gathered at the yoke and with bell sleeves. The sleeves and facings are in a coloured silk (see below). [10]
The colour of the silk on the gown's sleeves and facings indicates which doctorate the wearer holds. The colours of the silk are: [10]
The MMus and undress DMus gowns use the Oxford lay gown [d4], which is similar in shape to the masters' gown but with a flap collar covering the yoke and with inverted T-shaped armholes rather than straight horizontal cuts. Additionally there are panels of lace (known as gimp) near the foot of the gown and (on the DMus undress gown) on the sleeves. Instead of this panel, the MMus gown has a row of lace running from the armholes to the base of the sleeves. [6] [8]
Durham has two types of hoods for its degrees: Oxford simple shape [S1], consisting of just a cowl and liripipe, and full shape, consisting of a cowl and cape. Of the full hoods, there are three variants: the BA shape [f6] with a large semi-circular cape and long thin liripipe; the BSc shape [f7] with a shorter cape with rounded corners and a broad liripipe and rounded corners to the cape; and the doctors' shape [f4], which is similar to the BCL but with the cowl edge cut at 80 degrees to the cape and the liripipe sticking out at a 45 degree angle. Hoods may be made of silk or stuff (material other than silk – normally cotton). The shape in which the hood is made is governed only by tradition, but the materials and colours used are laid down in the university regulations. Many of the hoods feature palatinate – a particular shade of purple that is associated with the university.
St John's College has its own hood for graduates of its ministerial training course: of the Durham BSc pattern, in black stuff, the cowl faced inside with 2" blue silk. St Chad's College, which ceased to be a full-time theological college in the early 1970s, nevertheless had a hood for graduates of the part-time training course associated with the college: Cambridge MA pattern, the cowl faced inside with 2" olive-green silk. This was later superseded by the current pattern, Oxford simple-shape, faced inside with 2" olive-green silk and lined with blue-green brocade.
Bachelors' hoods are full-shape made with black stuff except for the BSc and LLB (made with palatinate silk). The BA uses its own specific full-shape [f6], while other bachelor's degrees use the BSc shape [f7]. [8] The hoods are: [10]
All masters use full shape hoods except for the MA, MEd, MSW and MAnth which use the simple shape. All masters' hoods are made in black silk except for the MJur, MRes, MSW and MAnth, which are made in palatinate silk. They are lined as follows: [10]
Doctors wear full-shape hoods with round-cornered capes. All these hoods are of scarlet cassimere, except DMus and DSc (which are made of brocaded white satin and palatinate cassimere respectively). The linings are generally the same colours as the sleeves and facings and the gowns:
Gown and hoods are worn for graduations, but mortarboards are not part of the university's academic dress, [11] except for higher doctors in full dress, who wear soft square hats (known as John Knox caps [h3]) with a tump at the centre of the crown rather than mortarboards or Tudor bonnets.
The following degrees, [12] at one time or another, have ceased to be awarded by the University of Durham. Those in italics were linked to departments based in Newcastle upon Tyne; when, in 1963, Newcastle became a university in its own right, it retained the academical dress associated with these degrees and for the most part continues to use it. [13]
Except where noted, the standard bachelor's or master's gown was worn (see above).
MD (Doctor of Medicine)
MB (Bachelor of Medicine)
DCh (Doctor of Surgery)
MS (Master of Surgery)
BS (Bachelor of Surgery)
DHy (Doctor of Hygiene)
BHy (Bachelor of Hygiene)
DDSc (Doctor of Dental Science)
MDS (Master of Dental Surgery)
BDS (Bachelor of Dental Surgery)
BD (Bachelor of Divinity)
BCL (Bachelor of Civil Law – see note in paragraph below)
BLitt (Bachelor of Literature)
BMus (Bachelor of Music)
MCom (Master of Commerce)
BCom (Bachelor of Commerce)
LLD (Doctor of Laws)
LLM (Master of Laws - see note in paragraph below)
LLB (Bachelor of Laws – see note in paragraph below)
BArch (Bachelor of Architecture)
BEd (Bachelor of Education)
MPharm (Master of Pharmacy)
When, in the 1990s, Durham University re-instituted the degree of LLB (previously associated with the Newcastle division and latterly with Newcastle University), it adopted a design of hood which was essentially the old hood reversed (see above) – though for some reason this logic was not followed with the re-instituted LLM The old BCL degree was rebranded as MJur at about the same time – leading to the peculiarity of a fur hood being worn with a master's gown for this degree. As a research degree of 50,000 words, the thesis requirement of the MJur is greater than that required for the LLM.
The Chancellor of the university wears a gown of black brocaded satin trimmed with gold lace in a distinctive pattern unique to the Universities of Durham and Newcastle. The Vice-Chancellor & Warden and the Pro-Vice-Chancellors wear black silk gowns with identical lace trimming, but in silver rather than gold. A scarlet habit is worn beneath these gowns (see below); at the neck, the chancellor wears a lace jabot, the Vice-Chancellor and his/her deputies wear white tie and bands. A black velvet mortar-board, with gold or silver tassel as appropriate, is also worn.
The office of Proctor is in abeyance at Durham, but a distinctive form of dress is prescribed for these officials, viz: a black silk gown, sleeves and front faced with black velvet and sleeves lined with palatinate purple silk; black velvet mortar-board; black velvet hood lined with palatinate purple silk.
In Durham, the early statutes require the wearing of a Convocation Habit 'under the gown' [4] (though later statutes say 'with the gown' rather than under it). Pre-World War II graduation photographs frequently show Durham doctors who are members of Convocation wearing the habit beneath their full-dress doctoral gown and hood. The Chancellor and the Vice-Chancellor were formerly directed [14] to wear the Convocation Habit under their gold- and silver-laced gowns, "or Scarlet Habit if not holding a Doctorate". This latter usage is followed to this day, the Habit being sleeved like a cassock).
The University of Oxford has a long tradition of academic dress, which continues to the present day.
The academic dress of the former University of Wales was designed for the first graduations in 1893, and has as its main identifying feature a faculty colour scheme involving 'shot silks'.
The University of Cambridge has a long tradition of academic dress, which it traditionally refers to as academical dress. Almost every degree which is awarded by the University has its own distinct gown in addition to having its own hood. Undergraduates wear college gowns, which are all subtly different; these differences enable the wearer's college to be determined. Academic dress is worn quite often in Cambridge on formal, and sometimes informal, occasions, and there are a number of rules and customs governing when and how it is worn. Black gowns (undress) are worn at less formal events, while on special occasions full academical dress is worn, consisting of gown, hood and headdress with Doctors in festal dress. The University's officials also have ancient forms of academic dress, unique to the University.
The academic dress prescribed by the University of Bristol is a mixture of that prescribed by Cambridge and Oxford. Bristol has chosen, for graduates, to mainly specify Oxford-style gowns and Cambridge-style hoods. Unlike many British universities, the hood itself is to be "University red", lined with a specified colour. University red is defined to be Pantone 187. Bristol also specifies that undergraduates are to wear gowns "of the approved pattern" in certain circumstances, although the pattern itself is not specified. This is not too important since, in practice, undergraduates are only required to be gowned when graduating or at dinner as a member of Wills Hall.
Academic dress at the University of St Andrews involves students wearing distinctive academic gowns whilst studying at the University of St Andrews. Undergraduate gowns in Scotland were once common at all the ancient universities of Scotland, with each having its own distinctive style. St Andrews undergraduates wear either a scarlet gown if they are part of the United College and studying in the Faculties of Arts, Medicine and Science, or a black gown if they are part of St Mary's College and studying in the Faculty of Divinity.
The academic and official dress of the University of Warwick dates originally from the mid-1960s, shortly after the university's foundation. Despite persistent offers from Charles Franklyn the theatrical costume designer Anthony Powell was commissioned to design robes for officials and graduates of the university. Due to pressure of other work, and some apparent differences of opinion, Powell withdrew from the project, and the robes for graduates subsequently designed in consultation with J. Wippell and Company of Exeter, with Ede and Ravenscroft designing and making the robes for officials.
The academic dress of the University of Melbourne refers to the formal attire, including robes, gowns, and hoods, as prescribed by the Statutes and Regulations for undergraduates, graduates, officers, and honorands of the university. This follows the style of the University of Oxford for the gowns and hoods for Bachelors and Masters degrees. Melbourne adopts the style of the University of Cambridge for its doctorates. The hoods are all black, resembling the size and shape of the Oxford MA hoods, which are in the simple Burgon shape. These hoods are lined with the color specified for the corresponding faculty or degree and are bound with white on the lower edge for bachelors, while masters' hoods have no binding. The specific faculty or degree colors are outlined in the University Regulations. In the past, Pass degrees were bound in fur and Honours degrees in silk; however, this distinction no longer holds. Bachelors wear an Oxford Bachelors gown, while Masters wear an Oxford Masters gown. The gown for undergraduate students is the same as the bachelors', but its sleeves must not be split.
Academic dress of the University of London describes the robes, gowns and hoods which are prescribed by the university for its graduates and undergraduates.
There are a number of universities in Queensland, Australia, all with distinct academic dress.
This page describes the different types of academic dress allowed at the University of Exeter. Definitions of the academic dress for the award holders and officials of the university are set out in the university's regulations.
The University of Leeds, like other universities in the United Kingdom and many other countries throughout the world, has its own unique system of academic and ceremonial dress for undergraduates, graduates and senior officials. As at most other universities, graduands will wear the gown, hood and hat appropriate to the degree they are about to receive. All of the graduates' hoods incorporate one or more shades of green, and the Doctors of Philosophy, Education and Clinical Psychology are unique in the UK in having a green full-dress gown.
Academic dress at the University of Edinburgh is compulsory at official ceremonial occasions, such as graduation and the installations of Rector and Chancellor, and otherwise optional, usually only worn for events.
Academic dress prescribed at the Trinity College Dublin follows a relatively complex protocol which, nonetheless, shares some particular characteristics with other universities in Ireland and with its sister institutions at the University of Oxford and University of Cambridge in the United Kingdom.
The academic dress of the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT) are the robes, gowns and hoods prescribed by the Australian university for the administration, faculty, graduates, postgraduates and undergraduates of its Australian and Vietnamese branches. The academic dress of RMIT is described as similar to that of the University of Oxford in the United Kingdom. The current statute of academic dress was approved by the RMIT Council in 1980.
Academic dress of the University of Manchester describes the gowns, hoods and headwear which are prescribed by the university for its graduates and officers.
Graduates and associates of Imperial College London wear its academic dress. After gaining its independence from the University of London in 2007, graduates began wearing Imperial academic dress in 2008. The unifying colour for Imperial's academic dress is purple after the work by William Henry Perkin.
The academic dress of the United Kingdom and Ireland has a long history and has influenced the academic dress of America and beyond. The academic square cap was invented in the UK as well as the hood which developed from the lay dress of the medieval period.
The academic dress of McGill University describes the caps, gowns and hoods which are prescribed by the university for its degree candidates/holders. Until the mid-20th century, McGill also prescribed academic dress for its matriculating or enrolled students as well as its faculty. Founded in 1821, McGill University is consistently ranked as one of Canada's pre-eminent universities, and among the top 20 universities in the world.
The academic dress of the Robert Gordon University is normally only worn at graduation ceremonies and occasionally at other very formal events. In common with most British universities, a graduand of the Robert Gordon University begins the ceremony wearing the dress of the degree to which they are being admitted except for the hood. This is in contrast to the practice at some universities such as Oxford where a graduand only dons the dress of a degree after it has been conferred. The current pattern of academic dress dates from 1992 when the institution became a university.
The academic dress of the University of Tasmania describes the formal attire of robes, gowns and hoods prescribed by the ordinance of academic dress of the University of Tasmania. The ordinance prescribes the Oxford style for the gowns and hoods for both undergraduate and postgraduate academic dress.