Gagra choli

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Women in ghagra choli ca.1872 Marathi dancing girls.jpg
Women in ghagra choli ca.1872

Gagra choli or ghagra choli, which is also known as lehenga choli and locally as chaniya choli, is the traditional clothing of women from India, notable in Indian states of Rajasthan, [1] [2] Gujarat, [3] Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Haryana, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Jammu and Kashmir, as well as in Nepal. In Punjab it was traditionally worn with the kurti and salwar. [4] It is a combination of the gagra or lehenga (long skirt) and the choli (blouse), however in contemporary and modern usage lehenga choli is the more popular and widely accepted term by fashion designers, trend setters, and boutiques in South Asia, since ghagra is synonymous with the half-slip worn as an undergarment below the sari.

Contents

Terms and history

Historically, the gagra choli evolved from the three-piece attire worn by women in ancient India. The attire consisted of the antriya lower garment, the uttariya veil worn over shoulder or head and stanapatta a chest-band, which finds mentioned in Sanskrit literature and Buddhist Pali literature during the 6th century B.C. [5]

Choli

Woman in traditional style of gagra choli worn in the Hindi belt. Gagra Choli.jpg
Woman in traditional style of gagra choli worn in the Hindi belt.

A choli (Hindi: चोली, Nepali : चोलो), (ravike in South India Telugu: రవికె, Kannada: ರವಿಕೆ) is a midriff-baring blouse commonly worn with the Indian sari costume (worn in India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Nepal and other surrounding countries). It evolved from the ancient Stanapatta (also known as Kanchuki) and is cut to fit tightly to the body with its short sleeves and low neck. The choli is usually cropped, allowing exposure of the navel; the cropped design is particularly well-suited for wear in the hot summers of the Indian subcontinent.

Gagra

Illustration of different regional variations of ghagra choli worn by women in India Lengha Choli.jpg
Illustration of different regional variations of ghagra choli worn by women in India

Lehenga, gagra/ghagra (Hindi: घाघरा ghāghrā) also chaniya [6] (known as pavadai in Tamil: பாவாடை) is a form of skirt which is long, embroidered and pleated. It is secured at the waist or hips and leaves the lower back and midriff bare. [7] The ancient version of skirt or ghagri evolved from bhairnivasani, which in turn evolved from the antriya when stitching on one side became tabular and was worn gathered together at the waist, and held by a girdle. This was one of the earliest forms of a clumsily stitched skirt. It was worn using a nada or drawstring. The ghagri was a narrow skirt 6 feet (1.8 m) long—the same length as the original antriya—and can still be seen worn by Jain nuns in India.

Until the early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore gagras which reached down to ankles, especially in the Hindi belt. This was largely due to jeweled toes indicating the marital status of women, as both married and unmarried women observed the ghoonghat veil. Gagras were made out of two to three layers of coarse khadi fabric which created large flared look and remained largely plain but were decorated with gota and badla embroidery on special occasions. Most commonly used dyes were indigo, lac and turmeric. This style can still be seen in rural areas of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar & Madhya Pradesh particularly during folk festivals.

Woman in gagra and long front covering choli tied at the back Ghagra Choli.jpg
Woman in gagra and long front covering choli tied at the back

Dupatta

The dupatta (Hindi: दुपट्टा, Urdu: دوپٹا) or chunri (known as oṛna in Bengali: ওড়না) is a scarf that is like a shawl and is worn with the gagra and choli. It is also used as part of the women's shalwar kameez costume. It is an evolved form of the Uttariya. Until the early 21st century, the dupatta was the most decorative part of gagra choli, while the rest of the garment was plainer, especially the gagra was an everyday one. Dupatta is worn in many regional styles across India. The most common style since early medieval times was to pleat the dupatta on one end, so it can be anchored by tucking it into the front waist of the gagra. The loose end is then wrapped across the waist and/or draped diagonally across the upper body to fall over the shoulder, or up and over to cover the head. This is similar to the way a sari is generally worn. Women farming or doing manual work tuck both ends of the dupatta into their choli.

The dupatta is traditionally seen as a symbol of modesty, as its main purpose is to serve as a veil. There is no single way of wearing it, so as time passed and fashion changed, the styling of the dupatta also evolved.

Fabrics

The lehengas are made of a number of fabrics such as silk, cotton, khadi, [8] georgette, crape, net, satin, brocade and chiffon. [9] Although designers have successfully used various fabrics for lehenga, silk is still the preferred fabric.

Decorative stitching

Apart from the fabric, decorative stitching patterns also play a role. Lehengas come with a wide variety of decoration and embroidery work like Gota, Phulkari, Shisha, Chikankari, Zari, Zardozi, Nakshi, Kundan, etc. [10] For festivals like Navratri, the ethnic Shisha embroidery is popular with a bit of patchwork. For formal wear and weddings, the embroidery is heavier in pearls, silk, sequins and zari. [8]

Kutch embroidery is an evolving expression of the craft and textile traditions of the Rabaris, a nomadic tribe in Gujarat. Kutch embroidery is unique in the sense that a net is woven on a cloth using thread. The net is then filled in using the same thread by intricate interlocking stitches. The patterns are usually built around geometric shapes. This embroidery follows its own traditional design logic and juxtaposition of colours and motifs. [11] The Rohanas tribals of Kutch specialise in skirt work. The Sodhas use a geometric style for their embroidery. The Garacia Jats are experts in tiny embroidery on the yoke, which intermingles with red, orange, blue and green threads. The Dhanetah Jats love embroidering broad pear-shaped mirrors using orange, black, yellow and red in chain stitch. [8]

Festive attire

The lehenga choli is the favourite female apparel worn during festivals, weddings or special events in India. This is due to traditions as well as of the fact that it is available in a number of fabrics with many different decorative choices. [12] Traditionally the sari and the lehenga choli are the most popular garments for the bride in India. [13] This is a common bridal attire mostly in North India and is also the traditional wear of Garba festival in Gujarat. [14]

Ritu Kala – significance in rite of passage

In southern India, coming of age ceremony or rites of passage (langa voni Telugu: లంగా వోని, Pattu Pavadai Tamil: பட்டு பாவாடை, Langa Davani Kannada: ಲಂಗ ದ್ವನಿ) are celebrated when a girl reaches puberty. She wears langa voni during the first part of the ceremony and then she is given her first sari, which she wears during the second half of the ceremony. This marks her transition into womanhood.

The tradition of presenting langa voni begins with the girl's first naming ceremony called Namakaran and her first rice feeding ceremony called Annaprashana. She receives her last one at her coming of age ceremony. Langa voni is traditional clothing for unmarried girls in southern India.

Pahari painting depicting women in Luanchari. ca.1760 Kangra Painting.jpg
Pahari painting depicting women in Luanchari. ca.1760

Luanchari

Luanchari (Hindi: लुआंचणी) is a full-dress garment. The luanchari is made up of two parts. The upper part is called choli, and is made of the same fabric as of the lehanga, but it is not uncommon to find the two pieces of the garment in different colours. The choli is stitched to the lehanga, to make a one-piece luanchari. This is commonly worn by the women in Pahari miniatures, and is quite similar to lehanga. [15] It may take over 21 yards of cloth to make a complete luanchari. [16] It is a traditional garment worn by Gaddis of Himachal Pradesh. [15]

Images

See also

Related Research Articles

Skirt Clothing worn from the waist or hips

A skirt is the lower part of a dress/gown or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards.

Sari Womans draped garment of South Asia

A sari, saree or sharee is a women's garment from the Indian subcontinent that consists of an unstitched drape varying from 4.5 to 9 metres in length and 600 to 1,200 millimetres in breadth that is typically wrapped around the waist, with one end draped over the shoulder, partly baring the midriff. There are various styles of sari manufacture and draping, the most common being the Nivi style, which originated in the Deccan region. The sari is worn with a fitted bodice commonly called a choli and a petticoat called ghagra, parkar or ul-pavadai. In the modern Indian subcontinent, the sari is considered a cultural icon.

<i>Kurta</i>

A kurta is a loose collarless shirt worn in many regions of South Asia, and now also worn around the world. Tracing its roots to Central Asian nomadic tunics, or upper body garments, of the late-ancient- or early-medieval era, the kurta has evolved stylistically over the centuries, especially in the South Asia, as a garment for everyday wear as well as for formal occasions.

Clothing in India is dependent upon the different ethnicity, geography, climate, and cultural traditions of the people of each region of India. Historically, male and female clothing has evolved from simple garments like kaupina, langota, dhoti, lungi, sari, gamcha, and loincloths to cover the body into elaborate costumes not only used in daily wear, but also on festive occasions, as well as rituals and dance performances. In urban areas, western clothing is common and uniformly worn by people of all social levels. India also has a great diversity in terms of weaves, fibers, colours, and material of clothing. Sometimes, color codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. The clothing in India also encompasses the wide variety of Indian embroidery, prints, handwork, embellishment, styles of wearing clothes. A wide mix of Indian traditional clothing and western styles can be seen in India.

Garba (dance)

Garba is a form of dance which originates from the state of Gujarat in India. The name is derived from the Sanskrit term Garbha ("womb") and Deep. Many traditional garbas are performed around centrally lit lamp or a picture or statue of the Goddess Shakti. Traditionally, it is performed during the nine-day Hindu festival Navarātrī. Either the lamp or an image of the Goddess, Durga is placed in middle of concentric rings as an object of veneration.

Choli

A choli is a blouse or a bodice-like upper garment that is commonly cut short leaving the midriff bare, it is worn along with a sari in the Indian subcontinent. The choli is also part of the ghagra choli costume in the Indian subcontinent.

Midriff The human abdomen

In fashion, the midriff is the human abdomen. The midriff is exposed when wearing a crop top or some forms of swimwear. Cholis worn by Indian women expose a section of midriff, usually 4 to 5 inches.

Lehenga

Lehnga or langa, is a form of full ankle-length skirt worn by women from India which is long, embroidered and pleated. It was worn in old Hindu tradition and was believed to awaken the spiritual chakras of the body. It is worn as the bottom portion of a Gagra choli or Langa Voni. It is secured at the waist and leaves the lower back and midriff bare. In the Indian subcontinent, various types of traditional embroidery work are done on lehenga, with Gota patti embroidery being one of popular types for the festivals and weddings. In the earlier times, girls would wear Ghagra-choli. Today, this attire has become outdated. Even then, in States like Gujarat and Rajasthan, young girls and women still wear lehnga. Lehnga is one of the appropriate garments as per the Hindu culture and considered a sattvik garment at the spiritual level as well.

Langa voni

A langa voni is a traditional dress worn mainly in South India and Pakistan by young girls between puberty and marriage. It is also known as the two-piece sari or half sari. Young girls between puberty and marriage wear this dress. Girls younger than this may wear it on special occasions.

Shisheh or abhla bharat embroidery, or mirror-work, is a type of embroidery which attaches small pieces of mirrors reflect metal to fabric. Mirror embroidery is spread throughout Asia, and today can be found in the traditional embroidery of the Indian subcontinent, Afghanistan, China, and Indonesia.

Pakistani clothing refers to the ethnic clothing that is typically worn by people in the country of Pakistan and by the people of Pakistani origin. Pakistani clothes express the culture of Pakistan, the demographics of Pakistan and cultures from the Punjab, Sindh, Balochistan, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (Pashtun) and Kashmir regions of the country. Dress in each regional culture reflect weather conditions, way of living and distinctive style which gives it a unique identity among all cultures.

Low-rise (fashion)

Low-rise is a style of clothing designed to sit low on, or below, the hips. The style can also be called lowcut, hipster, or hip-hugger. and can apply to garments worn by males or females. The term can be applied to all garments that cover the wearer's crotch area, including trousers, jeans, shorts, skirts, panties, briefs, bikinis, pantyhose, and tights.

Lehenga-style sari

A lehenga-style sari is a modern garment introduced in India that blends elements of the traditional sari and lehenga choli. A lehenga-style sari is normally 4.5 metres to 5.5 metres long. To wear one, unlike a sari, one does not have to form pleats but may simply tuck and drape.

Indian wedding clothes

Indian wedding clothes are elaborate set of clothes worn by the bride, bridegroom and other relatives attending the wedding.

Shalwar kameez Costume for men and women consisting of trousers and a tunic, worn in South and Central Asia

Shalwar kameez is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia, and Central Asia.

Punjabi ghagra

The Punjabi ghagra is a four-piece outfit known as tewar or 'ti-or' which was traditionally worn by Punjabi women throughout the Punjab region with the outfit comprising a head scarf (Phulkari), kurta or kurti, ghagra and either a suthan or the Punjabi salwar. In modern times, the ghagra is worn by women in parts of Haryana, rural parts of south West Punjab, parts of Himachal Pradesh and during performances of Giddha in East Punjab.

Luanchari

The luanchari is a full-dress ethnic garment of India. It is made up of two parts stitched together: the upper part, or choli, is a kind of blouse or bodice, and the lower part, or lehanga, is a long skirt. The two parts are typically made from the same fabric, but may vary in colour.

Punjabi clothing

In the ancient Punjab region, people wore cotton clothing. The tops lied till knees for both the genders. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees. Both sexes wore a dhoti around the waist. Modern Punjabi dress has retained this outfit but over its long history has added other forms of dress.

Sindhi clothing

Sindhi women wear the Shalwar kameez or the sari and the men wear the shalwar kameez or the kurta with pyjamma. However, before the adoption of the Shalwar kameez, the sari and the kurta, Sindhi's had their own traditional costumes.

History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent

History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent can be traced to the Indus Valley Civilization or earlier. Indians have mainly worn clothing made up of locally grown cotton. India was one of the first places where cotton was cultivated and used even as early as 2500 BCE during the Harappan era. The remnants of the ancient Indian clothing can be found in the figurines discovered from the sites near the Indus Valley Civilisation, the rock-cut sculptures, the cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. These scriptures view the figures of human wearing clothes which can be wrapped around the body. Taking the instances of the sari to that of turban and the dhoti, the traditional Indian wears were mostly tied around the body in various ways.

References

  1. Rajasthan (district Gazetteers) – Rajsamand
  2. People of India: Rajasthan, Part 1 – K. S. Singh
  3. Gujarat, Volume 1 – Rash Bihari Lal, Anthropological Survey of India
  4. Punjabi Sabhiachaar barey by Jit Singh Joshi Waris Shah Foundation
  5. Agam Kala Prakashan, 1991 "Costume, coiffure, and ornaments in the temple sculpture of northern Andhra", p.118
  6. Fashions from India – Tom Tierney
  7. Social Science a Textbook in History for Class IX as per New Syllabus – FK Publications
  8. 1 2 3 Dhanwanti Keshavrao (October 8, 2005). "Dressed for dandiya". The Tribune. Retrieved 12 April 2012.
  9. Types of Indian Lehengas – nrigujarati.co.in
  10. The latest fashion trends in saree collection – newsbycompany.com
  11. K.JESHI (Jul 19, 2004). "Exquisite embroidery". The Hindu. Chennai, India. Retrieved 12 April 2012.
  12. "Lehengas-An Elegant Wear – Pooja Lapasia". Archived from the original on 2012-03-31. Retrieved 2011-09-18.
  13. Fashionable wedding attire – The Hindu
  14. India – R.I.C. Publications
  15. 1 2 Handa, O. C.; Hāṇḍā, Omacanda (1998). Textiles, Costumes, and Ornaments of the Western Himalaya – Omacanda Hāṇḍā – Google Books. ISBN   9788173870767 . Retrieved 2013-10-25.
  16. Das, Shiva Tosh (1987). Life Style, Indian Tribes: Locational Practice – Shiva Tosh Das – Google Books. ISBN   9788121200585 . Retrieved 2013-10-25.