Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

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There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics (postponed to 2021 [1] due to the COVID-19 pandemic ). Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event (total 4 maximum across the 2 events). Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations. [2]

Contents

Timeline

EventDate [3] Venue
World Championships August 11–22, 2019 Flag of Japan.svg Hachioji
World Olympic Qualifying Event November 28 – December 1, 2019 Flag of France.svg Toulouse [4]
Pan American ChampionshipsFebruary 24 – March 1, 2020 Flag of the United States.svg Los Angeles [5]
European Championships November 19–29, 2020 [6] Flag of Russia.svg Moscow [7]
Asian ChampionshipsCancelled [8] Flag of Japan.svg Morioka [7]
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Xiamen [9]
African ChampionshipsDecember 17–20, 2020 [10] Flag of South Africa.svg Cape Town [7]
Oceania ChampionshipsDecember 19–20, 2020 [11] Flag of Australia (converted).svg Sydney [7]

The European, African, Oceania and Asian Championships were postponed due to the COVID-19 pandemic. [12] [13] The Asian Championship was later cancelled due to travel restrictions in Asian countries resulting from the pandemic. [8]

Qualification

Japan, as the host, was guaranteed at least one place. Initially the rules were interpreted such that this spot would only be used if no Japanese athlete would manage to qualify through the other qualifying events. [14]

The first qualifying opportunity was the Combined World Championship, where the top seven finishers earned one quota place. [7] Since four Japanese climbers qualified during this event (two male, two female), the unused Host Country Place went to the next highest placed climber in the Combined World Championships who is not yet qualified and doesn't come from a country with 2 climbers already qualified. [15]

The second opportunity, the Olympic Qualifying Event featured the next 22 ranked athletes in the World Cup standings who had not yet received an Olympic invitation; of these, the top six qualified for the Olympic Games. [16]

Between February and May 2020 each continent was to host a Continental Combined Championship, with the best finisher who is not already qualified earning a quota spot. Only the Pan-American Championships was held before the coronavirus pandemic halted competition. In February 2020, to address potential cancellations of continental championships due to the pandemic, IFSC updated the qualification guidelines to read, "Unused quota from any Continental Championship, will be reallocated to the next highest placed athlete from the relevant continent, not yet qualified, in the Combined World Championships 2019, respecting the maximum quota per gender per NOC." [17]

With the IFSC Climbing Asian Championships cancelled, Jongwon Chon and Seo Chae-hyun, both of South Korea, are the qualifiers. [8] [18]

The Tripartite Commission invitation was to be allocated after the continental championships, but the deadline was missed, and places were awarded to the next highest qualified eligible finishers at 2019 World Championships. [19] [20]

Selection

After athletes qualify, they are allocated a quota space by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), which must be confirmed by their National Olympic Committee (NOC). [20] In some cases the NOC might choose not to use a quota place in order to decide who fills the quota at a later date. During the Combined World Championships Japanese climbers Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka, Tomoa Narasaki and Kai Harada earned a quota place, but only Noguchi and Narasaki were subsequently confirmed to qualify for the Olympics. [7] [21] Later the IFSC and the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) confirmed both Nonaka and Harada as Olympic-qualified athletes. [16] [22]

In November 2019 the Japanese Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) opened a lawsuit against the IFSC related to uncertainties in the qualification system and how the 'host place' qualification could be used. Associated rule changes also affected selection pathways for athletes from other countries. [15] However, the Court for Arbitration in Sport (CAS) dismissed the suit in December 2020. [23]

Qualified countries

NOCMenWomenTotal
Flag of Australia.svg  Australia 112
Flag of Austria.svg  Austria 112
Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Canada 112
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China 112
Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Czech Republic 11
Flag of France.svg  France 224
Flag of Germany.svg  Germany 22
Flag of the United Kingdom.svg  Great Britain 11
Flag of Italy.svg  Italy 213
Flag of Japan.svg  Japan 224
Flag of Kazakhstan.svg  Kazakhstan 11
Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 11
Flag of the Russian Olympic Committee.svg  ROC †123
Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia 22
Flag of South Africa.svg  South Africa 112
Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea 112
Flag of Spain.svg  Spain 11
Flag of Switzerland.svg  Switzerland 11
Flag of the United States.svg  United States 224
Total: 19 NOCs202040
† Russian athletes were allowed to compete in the Olympics under the acronym "ROC" using the flag of the Russian Olympic Committee. [24] [25]

Qualified athletes

StandardPlacesMen'sWomen's
Host place1Flag of Japan.svg  Kai Harada  (JPN) [22] Flag of Japan.svg  Miho Nonaka  (JPN) [22]
World Championship 7Flag of Japan.svg  Tomoa Narasaki  (JPN)
Flag of Austria.svg  Jakob Schubert  (AUT)
Flag of Kazakhstan.svg  Rishat Khaibullin  (KAZ)
Flag of France.svg  Mickaël Mawem  (FRA)
Flag of Germany.svg  Alexander Megos  (GER)
Flag of Italy.svg  Ludovico Fossali  (ITA)
Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Sean McColl  (CAN)		Flag of Slovenia.svg  Janja Garnbret  (SLO)
Flag of Japan.svg  Akiyo Noguchi  (JPN) [26]
Flag of the United Kingdom.svg  Shauna Coxsey  (GBR)
Flag of Poland.svg  Aleksandra Mirosław  (POL)
Flag of Switzerland.svg  Petra Klingler  (SUI)
Flag of the United States.svg  Brooke Raboutou  (USA)
Flag of Austria.svg  Jessica Pilz  (AUT)
Olympic Qualifying Event6Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Adam Ondra  (CZE)
Flag of France.svg  Bassa Mawem  (FRA)
Flag of Germany.svg  Jan Hojer  (GER)
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  Pan Yufei  (CHN)
Flag of Spain.svg  Alberto Ginés López  (ESP)
Flag of the United States.svg  Nathaniel Coleman  (USA)		Flag of France.svg  Julia Chanourdie  (FRA)
Flag of Slovenia.svg  Mia Krampl  (SLO)
Flag of the Russian Olympic Committee.svg  Iuliia Kaplina  (ROC)
Flag of the United States.svg  Kyra Condie  (USA)
Flag of Italy.svg  Laura Rogora  (ITA)
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  Song Yiling  (CHN)
Pan American Championships1Flag of the United States.svg  Colin Duffy  (USA)Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Alannah Yip  (CAN)
African Championships1Flag of South Africa.svg  Christopher Cosser  (RSA)Flag of South Africa.svg  Erin Sterkenburg  (RSA)
European Championships 1Flag of the Russian Olympic Committee.svg  Alexey Rubtsov  (ROC)Flag of the Russian Olympic Committee.svg  Viktoriia Meshkova  (ROC)
Oceania Championships1Flag of Australia.svg  Tom O'Halloran  (AUS)Flag of Australia.svg  Oceana Mackenzie  (AUS)
Asian Championships0‡——
Tripartite Commission0‡——
Reallocation2Flag of South Korea.svg  Chon Jong-won  (KOR) [8] [18]
Flag of Italy.svg  Michael Piccolruaz  (ITA) [19] 		Flag of South Korea.svg  Seo Chae-hyun  (KOR) [8] [18]
Flag of France.svg  Anouck Jaubert  (FRA) [19]
Total20
‡ These slots were reallocated due to the Asian Championship being cancelled and the Tripartite Commission missing the deadline.

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References

  1. ↑ "Joint Statement from the International Olympic Committee and the Tokyo 2020 Organising Committee". IOC. 24 March 2020. Retrieved 15 April 2022.
  2. ↑ Qualification System – Games of the XXXII Olympiad – Sport climbing; International Federation of Sport Climbing, 15 March 2018
  3. ↑ "IFSC Tokyo 2020". Archived from the original on 18 January 2020. Retrieved 8 January 2020.
  4. ↑ "IFSC Combined Qualifier – Toulouse/Tournefeuille (FRA) 2019". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2021-08-10. Retrieved 2021-08-10.
  5. ↑ "2019–2020 Pan-American Events Announced". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 25 February 2020. Retrieved 25 February 2020.
  6. ↑ "IFSC EUROPE – CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,S,L,C) – MOSCOW (RUS) 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Archived from the original on 26 September 2020. Retrieved 22 September 2020.
  7. 1 2 3 4 5 6 "Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing?". Olympic Channel . Archived from the original on 2019-08-19. Retrieved 2019-08-19.
  8. 1 2 3 4 5 "IFSC ASIAN CHAMPIONSHIPS IN XIAMEN CANCELLED". aroundtherings.com. 14 December 2020. Archived from the original on 7 October 2021. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  9. ↑ "IFSC ASIA – CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) – XIAMEN (CHN) 09 – 13 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Archived from the original on 26 September 2020. Retrieved 1 October 2020.
  10. ↑ "IFSC AFRICA – CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) 2020 09 – 13 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Archived from the original on 19 September 2020. Retrieved 1 October 2020.
  11. ↑ "IFSC OCEANIA – CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) – SYDNEY (AUS) 2020 18 – 20 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Archived from the original on 26 September 2020. Retrieved 1 October 2020.
  12. ↑ "European Climbing Championships and Boulder World Cup postponed". Planetmountain. 15 March 2020. Archived from the original on 20 March 2020. Retrieved 20 March 2020.
  13. ↑ "Update on IFSC Competitions". IFSC. 13 March 2020. Archived from the original on 20 March 2020. Retrieved 20 March 2020.
  14. ↑ "Last Olympic sport climbing spots assigned against Japan's wishes". The Japan Times. 13 December 2020. Archived from the original on 13 December 2020. Retrieved 13 December 2020.
  15. 1 2 Natalie Berry (November 8, 2019). "Japanese Federation sues IFSC, Olympic Selection Rule Changes Confuse". UK Climbing. Archived from the original on November 11, 2020. Retrieved November 25, 2019.
  16. 1 2 Natalie Berry (November 21, 2019). "IFSC Releases Toulouse Combined Qualifier Startlist". UK Climbing. Archived from the original on September 12, 2020. Retrieved November 25, 2019.
  17. ↑ "QUALIFICATION SYSTEM – GAMES OF THE XXXII OLYMPIAD – TOKYO 2020" (PDF) (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 28 February 2020. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2 June 2021. Retrieved 6 March 2020.
  18. 1 2 3 Corrigan, Kevin (4 March 2020). "IFSC Announces Coronavirus Contingency Plan for Asian Championship Olympic Qualification Spots". Climbing . Archived from the original on 23 April 2020. Retrieved 6 March 2020.
  19. 1 2 3 "France's Jaubert and Italy's Piccolruaz earn ticket for Tokyo 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. 30 April 2020. Archived from the original on 21 May 2020. Retrieved 1 May 2020.
  20. 1 2 "Qualification System – Games of the XXXII Olympiad – Tokyo 2020 – Sport Climbing" (PDF). www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2 March 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 9 June 2021. Retrieved 9 June 2021.
  21. ↑ John Burgman (August 21, 2019). "Highs and Lows: 2019 Climbing World Championships". Climbing.com. Archived from the original on September 2, 2019. Retrieved September 2, 2019.
  22. 1 2 3 "Confirmed qualified athletes". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. 4 November 2019. Archived from the original on 29 November 2019. Retrieved 25 November 2019.
  23. ↑ "Last Olympic sport climbing spots assigned against Japan's wishes". The Japan Times. 13 December 2020. Archived from the original on 13 December 2020. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  24. ↑ Tariq Panja (December 9, 2019). "Russia Banned From Olympics and Global Sports for 4 Years Over Doping". The New York Times. Archived from the original on October 28, 2020. Retrieved October 26, 2020.
  25. ↑ "Olympics: Russia to compete under ROC acronym in Tokyo as part of doping sanctions". Reuters. Reuters. 2021-02-19. Archived from the original on 2021-02-20. Retrieved 2021-02-20.
  26. ↑ "Sport climbing: Japan's Noguchi earns Tokyo Olympic berth with world silver". The Mainichi. 21 August 2019. Archived from the original on 20 August 2019. Retrieved 20 August 2019.
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