Dartmoor longhouse

Last updated

A typical Dartmoor Longhouse c1500-1600 with shippon to the right of the cattle porch Sanders, Lettaford - geograph.org.uk - 134003.jpg
A typical Dartmoor Longhouse c1500-1600 with shippon to the right of the cattle porch

The Dartmoor longhouse [1] is a type of traditional stone-built home, typically found on the high ground of Dartmoor, in Devon, England and belonging to a wider tradition of combining human residences with those of livestock (cattle or sheep) under a single roof specific to western Britain; Wales, Cornwall and Devon, where they are more usually referred to simply as longhouses [2] and in general housebarns.

Contents

History

The earliest are thought to have been built in the 13th century, and they continued to be constructed throughout the mediaeval period and into the Early Modern, using local granite or other stone. One particular longhouse near Carreg Cennen Castle in Wales is dated to the 11th century. [3] Many longhouses are still inhabited today (although adapted over the centuries), while others have been converted into farm buildings. Forms of longhouses identical to those on Dartmoor are found in Cornwall, [2] particularly on Bodmin Moor [2] and in Wales where they are commonly called tyddyn meaning 'homestead', or specifically Ty Hir meaning 'long-house' [4] in the Welsh language. A near identical type called the (Maison) Longère can also be found in northwestern (Brittany, Normandy) and central France. [5]

Higher Uppacott (c.1350) has been preserved as a definitive example with preserved thatched roofing Doorway to Higher Uppacott longhouse (geograph 2597902).jpg
Higher Uppacott (c.1350) has been preserved as a definitive example with preserved thatched roofing

Higher Uppacott, one of very few remaining longhouses to retain its original unaltered shippon and medieval thatch, is a Grade I listed building, and is now owned by the Dartmoor National Park Authority. [6]

Floorplan of a 17th-century Dartmoor longhouse, shippon to right. Dartmoor-Longhouse-50px.png
Floorplan of a 17th-century Dartmoor longhouse, shippon to right.

Another fine example of a 16th-century longhouse, extended and enlarged can be found at Cullacott [7] near Launceston in Cornwall.

The longhouse consists of a long, single-storey gable-ended granite structure built lengthwise down the slope of a hill, with a central 'cross-passage' dividing it into two rooms, sometimes partitioned with a screen. The higher end of the building was occupied by the human inhabitants; their animals were tethered in the lower, especially during the cold winter months. The animal quarters, called the 'shippon' or 'shippen'; a word still used by many locals to describe a farm building used for livestock, were located down the slope to allow slurry to drain out through the end wall. In Wales, the upper end was known as pen uchaf, the lower end pen isaf and the passage penllawr meaning 'head of the floor'. [4]

Early longhouses would have had no chimney – the smoke from a central fire simply filtered through the thatched roof and the whole space was open to the rafters, without a ceiling, as in a medieval English hall, to benefit from the heat of the open peat or furze hearth. Windows were very small or non-existent, so the interior would have been dark. The cross-passage had a door at either end, and with both of these open a breeze was often created which made it an ideal location for winnowing. Later in the medieval period, separation from the animals was increased with the introduction of enclosed stone fireplaces and upper floors inserted to create private bedrooms, while the roofspace above the shippen was often used as a hayloft or store. [4] [6]

The medieval Welsh tale The Dream of Rhonabwy from the 12th or 13th century vividly describes the interior [4] of "an old pitch black hall":

Inside they saw a bumpy pitted floor: where there were bumps a man could scarcely stand, so slimy was this floor with cow dung and urine, and where there were holes a man might sink to his instep in the mixture of water and urine, and it was all strewn with holly stems whose tips the cattle had been eating. When they reached the fore-court they found a dusty threadbare floor and an old hag before the fire at one end, and when she was cold she would throw a lapfull of chaff onto the fire, so that it was not easy for any man to put up with the smoke that entered his nostrils. At the other end they saw a yellow ox-skin, and lucky the man who was privileged to sleep on that. [8]

This simple floorplan is clearly visible at the abandoned mediaeval village at Hound Tor, which was inhabited from the mid-13th to the mid-15th centuries corresponding with the establishment of the Ancient Tenements on the high moorlands and abandoned as a result of depopulation following the Black Death after 1340. [9] Excavations during the 1960s revealed four longhouses, many featuring a central drainage channel, and several smaller houses and barns. Peter Herring notes in his discussion of a medieval hamlet of six longhouses at Brown Willy in Cornwall dating from the mid-thirteenth century, [10] that the shippons were typically orientated toward a common livestock holding area or 'townplace', whilst the raised human portion was carefully positioned away from the communal area for privacy. [2] Roofs were originally thatched, [2] with gardens and various agricultural outbuildings including communal corn-driers. [2]

In later centuries, the longhouses were adapted and expanded, often with the addition of an upper floor and a granite porch to protect against the elements. Substantial inglenook fireplaces and chimneys were also added, along with adjoining dairies, staircases and linhays and can be seen at many of the surviving Dartmoor longhouses today (see Ancient Tenements) which often have roofs replaced with local or Welsh slate, mainly in the nineteenth century. The ownership of an extensive longhouse is regarded as a sign of the relative prosperity of the rural region and longhouses would usually have been occupied by land-owning families rather than tenant peasants who would have occupied much humbler dwellings. [6]

Notes and references

  1. "The Dartmoor Longhouse". Dartmoor National Park Authority.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 "The Medieval Countryside". Flying through Cornwall's Past. 11 December 2020.
  3. "The Dartmoor Longhouse Poster" (PDF). Dartmoor National Park Authority. Archived from the original (PDF) on 27 September 2007. Retrieved 1 April 2008.
  4. 1 2 3 4 Peate, Iorwerth C. (1940). "The Welsh House: a study in folk culture". Y Cymmrodor . London. XLVII.
  5. "The vernacular architecture of France". The Gateway to Dry Stone Architecture.
  6. 1 2 3 "Interactive Visit to Higher Uppacott". Virtually Dartmoor. Retrieved 1 April 2008.
  7. "Cullacott and Attached Open Fronted Cartshed, Werrington, Cornwall".
  8. The Mabinogion, The Dream of Rhonabwy, Penguin Classics edition 1982
  9. Newman, Phil (2006). "Tinworking and the Landscape of Medieval Devon, c1150-1700". In Turner, Sam (ed.). Medieval Devon & Cornwall; Shaping an Ancient Countryside. p. 125.
  10. Herring, Peter (2006). "Medieval Fields at Brown Willy, Bodmin Moor". In Turner, Sam (ed.). Medieval Devon & Cornwall; Shaping an Ancient Countryside.
  11. English Heritage

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dartmoor</span> National park in South West England

Dartmoor is an upland area in southern Devon, South West England. The moorland and surrounding land has been protected by National Park status since 1951. Dartmoor National Park covers 954 km2 (368 sq mi).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Industrial archaeology of Dartmoor</span>

The industrial archaeology of Dartmoor covers a number of the industries which have, over the ages, taken place on Dartmoor, and the remaining evidence surrounding them. Currently only three industries are economically significant, yet all three will inevitably leave their own traces on the moor: china clay mining, farming and tourism.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sylvia Sayer</span> British environmental conservator

Sylvia Olive Pleadwell Sayer, Lady Sayer, was a passionate conservationist and environmental campaigner on behalf of Dartmoor, an area of mostly granite moorland in Devon in the south-west of England. She was chairman of the Dartmoor Preservation Association from 1951 to 1973, and remained deeply involved with the organisation until her death.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tor (rock formation)</span> Large, free-standing rock outcrop on a gentle hill summit

A tor, which is also known by geomorphologists as either a castle koppie or kopje, is a large, free-standing rock outcrop that rises abruptly from the surrounding smooth and gentle slopes of a rounded hill summit or ridge crest. In the South West of England, the term is commonly also used for the hills themselves – particularly the high points of Dartmoor in Devon and Bodmin Moor in Cornwall.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pixie</span> Mythical creature of British folklore

A pixie is a mythical creature of British folklore. Pixies are speculated to be particularly concentrated in the high moorland areas around Devon and Cornwall, suggesting some Celtic origin for the belief and name. However, the word 'pixie' also appears in Dorset, Somerset and to a lesser extent in Sussex, Wiltshire and Hampshire.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Longhouse</span> Type of house

A longhouse or long house is a type of long, proportionately narrow, single-room building for communal dwelling. It has been built in various parts of the world including Asia, Europe, and North America.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Merrivale, Devon</span> Village in Devon, England

Merrivale is a locality in western Dartmoor, in the West Devon district of Devon, England. It is best known for the nearby series of Bronze Age megalithic monuments to the south and a former granite quarry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Widecombe in the Moor</span> Village in Devon, England

Widecombe in the Moor is a village and large civil parish in Dartmoor National Park in Devon, England. Its church is known as the Cathedral of the Moors on account of its tall tower and its size, relative to the small population it serves. It is a favourite tourist centre, partly for its scenic character and partly for its connection to the popular song "Widecombe Fair".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grimspound</span> Bronze Age settlement on Dartmoor in Devon, England

Grimspound is a late Bronze Age settlement, situated on Dartmoor in Devon, England. It consists of a set of 24 hut circles surrounded by a low stone wall. The name was first recorded by the Reverend Richard Polwhele in 1797; it was probably derived from the Anglo-Saxon god of war, Grim.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hound Tor</span> Granite tor on Dartmoor in Devon, England

Hound Tor is a tor on Dartmoor, Devon, England and is a good example of a heavily weathered granite outcrop. It is easily accessible, situated within a few minutes from the B3387 between Bovey Tracey and Widecombe-in-the-Moor.

The Ancient Tenements are the oldest surviving farms in Dartmoor, England, established during the 14th century and possibly earlier.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of Devon</span>

Devon is a county in south west England, bordering Cornwall to the west with Dorset and Somerset to the east. There is evidence of occupation in the county from Stone Age times onward. Its recorded history starts in the Roman period when it was a civitas. It was then a separate kingdom for a number of centuries until it was incorporated into early England. It has remained a largely agriculture based region ever since though tourism is now very important.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Culture of Cornwall</span> Overview of the culture of Cornwall

The culture of Cornwall forms part of the culture of the United Kingdom, but has distinct customs, traditions and peculiarities. Cornwall has many strong local traditions. After many years of decline, Cornish culture has undergone a strong revival, and many groups exist to promote Cornwall's culture and language today.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mining in Cornwall and Devon</span> Mining in the English counties of Cornwall and Devon

Mining in Cornwall and Devon, in the southwest of Britain, is thought to have begun in the early-middle Bronze Age with the exploitation of cassiterite. Tin, and later copper, were the most commonly extracted metals. Some tin mining continued long after the mining of other metals had become unprofitable, but ended in the late 20th century. In 2021, it was announced that a new mine was extracting battery-grade lithium carbonate, more than 20 years after the closure of the last South Crofty tin mine in Cornwall in 1998.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Scottish Vernacular</span> Style of architecture

Scottish Vernacular architecture is a form of vernacular architecture that uses local materials.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Whiteworks</span> Former mining hamlet in Devon, England

Whiteworks is a former mining hamlet near the town of Princetown, within Dartmoor National Park, in the English county of Devon. Tin mining is central to the history of settlement at Whiteworks, which was once home to one of Dartmoor's largest tin mines. The original cottages and their inhabitants were related to this industry, until the area became used increasingly for farming in the 20th century. The site has now largely been abandoned, although Whiteworks is still on the route of many walks including Abbots Way Walk passes 500 m to the west.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rough Tor</span> Tor on Bodmin Moor, Cornwall, England

Rough Tor, or Roughtor, is a tor on Bodmin Moor, Cornwall, England, United Kingdom. The site is composed of the tor summit and logan stone, a neolithic tor enclosure, a large number of Bronze Age hut circles, and some contemporary monuments.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ditsworthy Warren House</span> Farmhouse

Ditsworthy Warren House is a Grade II listed building near Sheepstor in Devon, England. It is an isolated building on the south-western edge of Dartmoor, and was built for the keeper of the rabbit warren near the house. It was used in 2010 as a filming location for the Steven Spielberg film, War Horse.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">North Bovey</span> Village and civil parish in Devon, England

North Bovey is a village and civil parish situated on the south-eastern side of Dartmoor National Park, Devon, England, about 11 miles WSW of the city of Exeter and 1.5 miles SSW of Moretonhampstead. The village lies above the eastern bank of the River Bovey from which it takes its name. In 2001 the population of the parish was 274, compared to 418 in 1901 and 519 in 1801.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hundatorra</span> Deserted medieval village in Devon

Hundatorra or Hundetorre is a deserted medieval village near Hound Tor on Dartmoor, Devon. The site has seen two periods of historic occupation, the first in the Bronze Age from around 1700 – 1200 BCE and deserted by 1000 BCE, and the reoccupation during the Medieval Warm Period until approximately the 14th century.