Kangbachen

Last updated
Kangbachen
Kangchenjunga PangPema.JPG
Highest point
Elevation 7,903 m (25,928 ft)
Parent peak Kangchenjunga
Listing List of mountains in Nepal
Coordinates 27.7166°N 88.1105°E
Geography
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Kangbachen
Kangbachen
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15km
10miles
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Pakistan
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India
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China
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The major peaks (not mountains) above 7,500 m (24,600 ft) height in Himalayas, rank identified in Himalayas alone (not the world). [1] The map may help give context to Kangbachen with more detail and zooming on click through.

Legend:
1:Mount Everest , 2:Kangchenjunga , 3:Lhotse , 4:Yalung Kang, Kanchenjunga West , 5:Makalu , 6:Kangchenjunga South , 7:Kangchenjunga Central , 8:Cho Oyu , 9:Dhaulagiri , 10:Manaslu (Kutang) , 11:Nanga Parbat (Diamer) , 12:Annapurna , 13:Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma) , 14:Manaslu East , 15:Annapurna East Peak , 16: Gyachung Kang , 17:Annapurna II , 18:Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri) , 19:Kangbachen , 20:Himalchuli (Himal Chuli) , 21:Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna) , 22:Nuptse (Nubtse) , 23:Nanda Devi , 24:Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho) , 25:Namcha Barwa (Namchabarwa) , 26:Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak) , 27:Kamet , 28:Dhaulagiri II , 29:Ngojumba Kang II , 30:Dhaulagiri III , 31:Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu) , 32:Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan) , 33:Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III) , 34:Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen) , 35:Dhaulagiri IV , 36:Annapurna Fang , 37:Silver Crag , 38:Kangbachen Southwest , 39:Gangkhar Puensum (Gangkar Punsum) , 40:Annapurna III , 41:Himalchuli West , 42:Annapurna IV , 43:Kula Kangri , 44:Liankang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North, Liangkang Kangri) , 45:Ngadi Chuli South

 
Parent range Himalayas
Climbing
First ascent 1974

Kangbachen is a subsidiary peak of Kangchenjunga in the Nepalese part of the Himalayas. The Kangchenjunga massif's local name translates to "Five treasures of the high snow" [2] in reference to its five peaks, one being Kangbachen.

Kangbachen lies on the west ridge of the Kangchenjunga range, in Nepal's Lantang Valley. It is the smallest of Kangchenjunga's five peaks and the only one less than eight thousand meters (7,903 m). It is also the only one of Kangchenjunga's peaks entirely in Nepal. [3]

Kangbachen has rarely been climbed compared to other mountains on the range. It has only had ten recorded expeditions since 1930, and only two successful summits, according to the Himalayan Database. [4]

It was first summitted on May 26, 1974, via the southwest ridge by a Polish expedition team, composed of Kazimierz Olech, Wiesław Kłaput, Marek Malatyński, Zbigniew Rubinowski and Wojciech Brański. [5] The second successful summit, by a Yugoslavian team, took place just over four months later, on September 29, 1974. [4]

As of 2024, the East, and South faces of Kangbachen are unclimbed. [6] [7]

Climbing History

1930 —Günter Dyhrenfurth / Smythe rope team attempted to reach the summit, but turned back at 6400m [8]

1949 — Alfred Sutter Swiss Expedition hits high point of 5490m, no summit attempt [4]

1965 — Yugoslavian expedition by Mountaineering Club Ljubljana abandoned at 7600m due to frostbite [4]

1973 — Japanese Himalayan Expedition of Rikkio University made four attempts at the summit, but heavy snow impeded their ascents each time. Highest point reached was 6550m [9]

1974 — Successful summit by Polish team led by Kazimierz Olech and Polski Club Gorski [10]

1975 — Yugoslavian expedition from Slovene Alpine Club, Ljubljana, led by Tone Škarja makes second successful summit [11]

1984 — Solo attempt by Italy's Dante Porta, abandoned at 6000m due to altitude sickness [4]

2007 — Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition, led by Tone Škarja, had to abandon attempt due to avalanche risk [4] [12]

2019 — Romano Benet and Nives Meroi Kangbachen Expedition, abandoned at 6300 due to large crevasse [4]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kangchenjunga</span> Third highest mountain in the world

Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā and Khangchendzonga, is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas, the Kangchenjunga Himal, which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies in the border region between Koshi Province of Nepal and Sikkim state of India, with the two peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District and the other three peaks Main, Central and South directly on the border.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eight-thousander</span> Mountain peaks of over 8,000 m

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nuptse</span> Mountain in Nepal

Nuptse or Nubtse is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, in the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies 2 km (1.2 mi) WSW of Mount Everest. The main peak, Nuptse I at an elevation of 7,861 m (25,791 ft), was first climbed on May 16, 1961, by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi. After a hiatus of almost 20 years, Nuptse again became the objective of mountaineers, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Baruntse</span> Mountain in Nepal

Baruntse is a mountain in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal, crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier, and on the northwest by the Imja Glacier. It is considered as one of the best preparation peaks in the Himalayas for climbers readying themselves for eight-thousanders, however the mountain has a low success rate due to its technical difficulties, steep slopes and unpredictable weather conditions. It is open for beginners, but requires the use of fixed ropes to climb.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Edurne Pasaban</span> Spanish Basque mountaineer

Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar is a Basque Spanish mountaineer. On May 17, 2010, she became the first woman to climb all 14 of the eight-thousanders – and the 21st person to do so. Her first 8,000 peak had been achieved 9 years earlier, on May 23, 2001, when she reached the summit of Mount Everest. She has also completed the seven summits.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Zemu Gap Peak</span> Peak in the Himalayas

Zemu Gap Peak or Zemu Peak is a peak on a high ridge running east of the south summit of Kangchenjunga in the Himalayas. It is located in Sikkim, India

Pumari Chhish, is a group of peaks in the Shimshal Valley, a village of the Karakoram range. The central peak,(or Pumarikish, Peak 11) rises to 7,492m. It lies about 4 km east of Khunyang Chhish, in the heart of the Hispar, north of the Hispar Glacier.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hindu Raj</span> Mountain range in Pakistan

The Hindu Raj is a mountain range in northern Pakistan, between the Hindu Kush and the Karakoram ranges. The peaks in the Hindu Raj mountains average between 5,000 to 6,000 metres in height. Its highest peak is Koyo Zom, 6,872 m (22,546 ft).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Latok group</span> Mountain group in the Karakoram range

The Latok group is a cluster of large and dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side, lies the Choktoi Glacier.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Artur Hajzer</span> Polish mountain climber (1962–2013)

Artur Henryk "Słon” Hajzer was a Polish mountaineer. Hajzer summitted seven eight-thousanders, several via new routes and made the first winter climb of Annapurna on February 3, 1987.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nives Meroi</span> Italian mountaineer

Nives Meroi is an Italian mountaineer and a climbing writer. On 11 May 2017 she completed the ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders using the alpine style of climbing and without supplementary oxygen.

Kirti Stambh is a mountain of the Garhwal Himalaya in Uttarakhand, India. The elevation of Kirti Stambh is 6,270 metres (20,571 ft) and its prominence is 100 metres (328 ft). It is 128th highest located entirely within the Uttrakhand. Nanda Devi, is the highest mountain in this category. It lies between Thalaysagar and Bhartekunta. Its nearest higher neighbor Bhartekunta 6,578 metres (21,581 ft) lies 2.3 km SE. It is located 5.1 km SSE of Thalaysagar 6,904 metres (22,651 ft) and 12.8 km NEE lies Bhagirathi I 6,856 metres (22,493 ft).

Richard Frank "Rick" Allen was a Scottish mountaineer. Allen summitted six eight-thousanders and was the first British climber atop some of Tajikistan's biggest mountains. He had over 40 years experience climbing in the Himalayas at the time of his death.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marija Frantar</span> Slovenian alpinist

Marija "Mariča" Sabolek Frantar (1956-1991), was a Slovenian alpinist who was one of Slovenia's most successful mountaineers, and the second Slovene woman to summit an eight-thousander. In 1990, she received the Stanko Bloudek award, Slovenia's highest state award for sport for her achievements in mountaineering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kazimierz Olech</span> Polish mountaineer and alpinist

Kazimierz "Waldek" Waldemar Olech was a Polish mountaineer, alpinist, Himalayan climber, caver, climbing instructor, and mountain photographer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yalung Kang</span> Minor summit of Kangchenjunga in Nepal

Yalung Kang is a 8,505 m high minor summit of the Kangchenjunga massif found in the Himalayan range.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kangchenjunga South</span> Subsidiary peak of Kanchenjunga

Kanchenjunga South Peak is a 8,476 m high subsidiary peak of Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.

Takeo "Kenro" Nakajima was a Japanese elite alpinist and cameraman. In 2018, Nakajima and his climbing partner Kazuya Hiraide received the 26th Piolet d'Or for their ascent of the unclimbed northeast face of Shispare, which they climbed in 2017. In 2020, the pair won their second Piolet d'Or for their ascent of Rakaposhi. Nakajima summitted six of the Seven Summits and three eight-thousanders: Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Mount Everest. He was known for making first ascents on other remote peaks across the Himalayas and the Karokoram.

References

  1. "Peak Bagger:Himalaya, Central Nepal Himalaya, Khumbu, Ghurka Himal, Annapurna Himal, Xishapangma Area, Sikkim-Eastern Nepal Himalaya, Western Nepal Himalaya, Assam Himalaya, Punjab Himalaya, Bhutan Himalaya, Garwhal Himalaya, Ganesh Himal" . Retrieved 22 October 2024.
  2. De Schlagintweit, H.; de Schlagintweit, A.; de Schlagintweit, R. (1863). "IV. Names explained". Results of a Scientific Mission to India and High Asia, undertaken between the years MDCCCLIV and MDCCCLVIII by order of the court of Directors of the Honourable East India Company. Volume III. London: Brockhaus, Leipzig and Trübner & Co. p. 207.
  3. "Kangbachen - Peakbagger.com". www.peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "The Himalayan Database Online". The Himalayan Database. Retrieved June 29, 2024.
  5. "The HJ/33/13 THE FIRST ASCENT OF KANGBACHEN, 1974". The HJ/33/13 THE FIRST ASCENT OF KANGBACHEN, 1974. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  6. Benavides, Angela (2024-03-13). "Hamor, Meroi, and Benet Back to Kangchenjunga » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  7. "Siete sietemiles y un ochomil vírgenes el Nepal". Desnivel.com (in Spanish). 2024-04-12. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  8. "The HJ/3/9 THE INTERNATIONAL HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1930". The HJ/3/9 THE INTERNATIONAL HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1930. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  9. "AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Kangbachen Attempt". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  10. "The HJ/33/13 THE FIRST ASCENT OF KANGBACHEN, 1974". The HJ/33/13 THE FIRST ASCENT OF KANGBACHEN, 1974. Retrieved 2024-06-30.
  11. "AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Kangbachen, Second Ascent". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  12. "The HJ/65/19 EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES". The HJ/65/19 EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES. Retrieved 2024-06-30.