Kangbachen

Last updated
Kangbachen
Kangchenjunga PangPema.JPG
Highest point
Elevation 7,903 m (25,928 ft)
Parent peak Kangchenjunga
Listing Mountains of Nepal
Coordinates 27°43′00″N88°06′38″E / 27.7166°N 88.1105°E / 27.7166; 88.1105
Geography
Kangbachen
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16km
9.9miles
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Bhutan
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Nepal
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Pakistan
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India
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China
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The major peaks (not mountains) above 7,500 m (24,600 ft) height in Himalayas, rank identified in Himalayas alone (not the world). [1]
Parent range Himalayas
Climbing
First ascent 1974

Kangbachen is a subsidiary peak of Kangchenjunga in the Nepalese part of the Himalayas. The Kangchenjunga massif's local name translates to "Five treasures of the high snow" [2] in reference to its five peaks, one being Kangbachen.

Kangbachen lies on the west ridge of the Kangchenjunga range, in Nepal. It is the smallest of Kangchenjunga's five peaks and the only one less than eight thousand meters (7,903 m). It is also the only one of Kangchenjunga's peaks entirely in Nepal. [3]

Kangbachen has rarely been climbed compared to other mountains on the range. It has only had ten recorded expeditions since 1930, and only two successful summits, according to the Himalayan Database. [4]

It was first summitted on May 26, 1974, via the southwest ridge by a Polish expedition team, composed of Kazimierz Olech, Wiesław Kłaput, Marek Malatyński, Zbigniew Rubinowski and Wojciech Brański. [5] The second successful summit, by a Yugoslavian team, took place just over four months later, on September 29, 1974. [6] [4]

As of 2024, the East, and South faces of Kangbachen are unclimbed. [7] [8]

Climbing History

1930 —Günter Dyhrenfurth / Smythe rope team attempted to reach the summit, but turned back at 6400m [9]

1949 — Alfred Sutter Swiss Expedition hits high point of 5490m, no summit attempt [4]

1965 — Yugoslavian expedition by Mountaineering Club Ljubljana abandoned at 7600m due to frostbite [4]

1973 — Japanese Himalayan Expedition of Rikkio University made four attempts at the summit, but heavy snow impeded their ascents each time. Highest point reached was 6550m [10]

1974 — Successful summit by Polish team led by Kazimierz Olech and Polski Club Gorski [5]

1974 — Yugoslavian expedition from Slovene Alpine Club, Ljubljana, led by Tone Škarja makes second successful summit [6]

1984 — Solo attempt by Italy's Dante Porta, abandoned at 6000m due to altitude sickness [4]

2007 — Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition, led by Tone Škarja, had to abandon attempt due to avalanche risk [4] [11]

2019 — Romano Benet and Nives Meroi Kangbachen Expedition, abandoned at 6300 due to large crevasse [4]

References

  1. "Peak Bagger:Himalaya, Central Nepal Himalaya, Khumbu, Ghurka Himal, Annapurna Himal, Xishapangma Area, Sikkim-Eastern Nepal Himalaya, Western Nepal Himalaya, Assam Himalaya, Punjab Himalaya, Bhutan Himalaya, Garwhal Himalaya, Ganesh Himal" . Retrieved 22 October 2024.
  2. De Schlagintweit, H.; de Schlagintweit, A.; de Schlagintweit, R. (1863). "IV. Names explained". Results of a Scientific Mission to India and High Asia, undertaken between the years MDCCCLIV and MDCCCLVIII by order of the court of Directors of the Honourable East India Company. Volume III. London: Brockhaus, Leipzig and Trübner & Co. p. 207.
  3. "Kangbachen". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "The Himalayan Database Online". The Himalayan Database. Retrieved June 29, 2024.
  5. 1 2 Olech, K. (1975). "THE FIRST ASCENT OF KANGBACHEN, 1974". Himalayan Journal . 33. Translated by Andrzej Kus. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  6. 1 2 "Asia, Nepal, Kangbachen, Second Ascent". American Alpine Journal. 20 (1). American Alpine Club: 189. 1975. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  7. Benavides, Angela (2024-03-13). "Hamor, Meroi, and Benet Back to Kangchenjunga". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  8. "Siete sietemiles y un ochomil vírgenes el Nepal". Desnivel.com (in Spanish). 2024-04-12. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  9. Dyhrenfurth, Günter (1931). "THE INTERNATIONAL HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1930". Himalayan Journal. 3. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  10. ", Nepal, Kangbachen Attempt". American Alpine Journal . 19 (1). American Alpine Club: 207. 1974. Retrieved 2024-06-29.
  11. Škarja, Tone (2009). "Slovenian Expedition to NE Nepal, 2008". Expeditions and Notes. Himalayan Journal. 65. Translated by Miha Valic. Retrieved 2024-06-30.