The list below is mainly based on the listing by the Finnish Alpine Club. However, their listing contains information only up to the end of September 2019. The list has last been updated on 20 March 2019 from the Himalayan Database, which at the time was up to date with the situation of 31 December 2018.[1] Additional, recent information is indicated by references next to the climber's name.
General information on each mountain is provided in the text paragraphs, while the information on the Finns is given mainly in the tables.
Everest (the tallest mountain in the world)
Mount Everest seen from Gokyo Ri at sunrise in 2022.
The first Finn to have climbed Everest was Veikka Gustafsson in 1993. In 1997 he achieved the feat without supplementary oxygen,[9] and he went to the summit a third time with supplementary oxygen in 2004.[10] The first Finnish woman to have conquered Everest was Carina Räihä in May 2012.[11]
By the end of September 2019, 18 Finns had been at the summit of Everest, and Gustafsson had been there thrice.[1]
K2, earlier also known as Mount Godwin-Austen, is the second tallest mountain in the world at 8611metres. It is located at the Pakistani-Chinese border in the Karakorum mountain range.[15] The “K” in its name stands for Karakorum.[16]
Kangchenjunga seen from the Skardu Valley in Sikkim in 2012.
Kangchenjunga is the third tallest mountain in the world at 8586metres. It is located on the Nepali-Indian border, partly in Nepal and partly in Sikkim. Of the five peaks, the Western Peak and Kangbachen are located in Nepal, and the other three peaks Main, Central and South directly on the border.
The name is Tibetan and means ‘the five treasures of the high snow’. The local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but reveal themselves to the devout when the world is in peril; the treasures comprise salt, gold, turquoise and precious stones, sacred scriptures, invincible armor or ammunition, grain and medicine.[20][21]
Until 1852 it was thought that Kangchenjunga was the tallest mountain of the world, until the results of the Great Trigonometrical Survey showed that Everest, then known as Peak XV, was taller.
Small Buddhist stupa in Imja river near Dingboche village. A view up to mountain Lhotse and to Island peak. Photograph taken in 2011.
Lhotse is the fourth tallest mountain in the world at 8516metres. It is part of the Everest massive in the Khumbu region, and it is located right on the Nepal-China border, to the southeast of Everest. The name is Tibetan and stands for ‘southern peak’.
Lhotse was not considered an independent destination for climbers until the Swiss climbers Ernst Reiss and Friz Luchsinger ascended it on 18 May 1956 as part of their Everest expedition.[23] In 1979 the Polish climbers Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka reached the summit without supplementary oxygen.[24]
Makālu is the fifth tallest mountain of the world at 8485metres. It is located 23 kilometres east of Everest in the Khumbu region on the Nepal-China border. It is a difficult mountain to approach and ascend, it is an isolated peak shaped as a four-sided pyramid, and one of the most difficult ones to climb among the eight-thousanders.[27][28]
Makālu is Tibetan and stands for ‘the great black one’, which refers to the colour of the granite peak.[29]
Cho Oyu is the sixth tallest mountain of the world at 8188metres. It is located to the north of the Nangpa La pass, which connects Tibet and Khumbu and serves as a trade route for Tibetans and the Khumbu's Sherpas. It is located ca. 30 kilometres to the west of Everest.[31]
Dhaulagiri I is the seventh tallest mountain of the world at 8167metres, and the tallest to be located in the territory of one state only, that is, in Nepal. It is part of the Annapurna massive.
Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी) is an expression in the Nepalese language, and it is derived from Sanskrit, where धवल (dhawala) means ‘dazzling, white, beautiful’, and ja गिरि (giri) means ‘mountain’.[34]
During 1808–38 Dhaulagiri was thought to be the tallest mountain in the world, until Kangchenjunga took this title, eventually to lose it to Everest in 1858.[35][36]
Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word manasa, which means ‘intellect’ or ‘soul’.[39]
Manaslu was first climbed on 9 May 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition, and therefore the Japanese consider this to be their own mountain.[40]
For some years, there has been a debate about the location of the true summit of Manaslu. Usually climbers have turned back at a certain point, but according to some claims, there is a higher spot on the same ridge, a few metres away. The difference in the height of these spots is anywhere between 5 to 7,5 metres.[42] Some names on this list of Finnish mountaineers have been contested.
Nanga Parbat (9th tallest)
Nanga Parbat seen from Fairy Meadows in 2015.
Nanga Parbat is the ninth tallest mountain in the world at 8126metres. It is located at the western end of the Himalayas, immediately to the southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir. It is Pakistan's only eight-thousander which is in its entirety inside its borders.[43][44]
An immense, dramatic peak rising far above its surrounding terrain, it has the second-highest prominence among the 100 tallest mountains on Earth only behind Mount Everest. It has a dark reputation, as it is an extremely difficult mountain to climb, and it has been nicknamed “Killer Mountain”, due to the many deaths on its slopes, and even those who have survived it, have been pushed to their utmost limits.[45]
The name of the mountain comes from Sanskrit where the words nagna and parvata put together mean ‘naked mountain’. This refers to the south face, which usually is not covered by snow.[46][47][48][49]
The summit of Nanga Parbat was first reached on 3 July 1953 by Hermann Buhl of a German-Austrian expedition. Before this, 31 people had already been killed while attempting to scale the mountain.[50]
Nanga Parbat, 8126metres
No.
Year
Name
Role
W/o supplementary oxygen
1.
2001
Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson
Climber
W/o supplementary oxygen
Annapurna I (10th tallest)
Annapurna in 2015.
Annapurna is part of the Annapurna massive, a 55 kilometre-long mountain range, part of the Himalayas. The massive has dozens of peaks, of which Annapurna I, at 8091metres, is the tallest. It is the tenth tallest mountain in the world. Together with K2 and Nanga Parbat, it is one of the most dangerous mountains of the world.[51][52]
The name of the mountain comes from the goddess Annapurna, the Hindu goddess of food and nourishment, who is said to reside there. The name Annapurna is derived from the Sanskrit language words purna (‘filled’) and anna (‘food’), and can be translated as ‘everlasting food’.[53]
The first people to reach the summit of Annapurna I were from the expedition led by the FrenchmanMaurice Herzog on 3 June 1950. This was actually the first instance that anyone had been able to conquer an eight-thousander.[54][55]
The mountain originally had no name, as it was not visible to any areas inhabited by humans. When named, it was initially called “K5”, or the fifth mountain of the Karakorum.[56]
The current name “Gasherbrum” comes from the Balti words rgasha (‘beautiful’) and brum (‘mountain’), thus meaning ‘beautiful mountain’.[57]
Broad Peak (right) and the Gasherbrums (left) seen from K2 in 1986.
Broad Peak is the 12th tallest mountain in the world at 8047metres. It is located in the Karakorum Mountains at the border between Pakistan and China.
As with Gasherbrum above, this mountain also did not have a local name, and the current name Broad Peak is derived from the fact that the ridge of the summit is extraordinarily broad, about two kilometres wide, which invited in 1892 a comparison to the similar formation of Breithorn in the Alps by the British explorer Martin Conway.[58][59][60]
The Catalan Enric Font Lloret at the summit of Gasherbrum II in 1980. Lloret was killed in an avalanche on Manaslu two years later.
Gasherbrum II is the thirteenth tallest mountain in the world at 8035metres. It is located in the Karakorum mountains as part of the Gasherbrum massive in Pakistan. It is the third tallest mountain of that massive, after Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak, and the sixth tallest in Pakistan.
Shishapangma seen from Tibet. The year is no later than 2014.
Shishapangma is the fourteenth tallest mountain of the world, at 8027metres. It is located in the Himalayas, in south-central Tibet, five kilometres from the Nepalese border.
The name Shishapangma is Tibetan. It consists of the words pangma (‘grassy plain’ or ‘meadow’) and shisha or chisa (‘comb’ tai ‘range’), thereby signifying the ‘crest above the grassy plains’. The Nepali-Indian name of the mountain is Gosainthan, which means a ‘holy place’.[63]
The first people to climb Shishapangma on 2 May 1964 were the Chinese mountaineers Xǔ Jìng, expedition leader, along with Zhāng Jùnyán, Wang Fuzhou, Wū Zōngyuè, Chén Sān, Soinam Dorjê, Chéng Tiānliàng, Migmar Zhaxi, Dorjê and Yún Dēng. They climbed the northern route.[64]
Shishapangma, 8027metres
No.
Year
Name
Role
W/o supplementary oxygen
1.
2001
Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson
Climber
W/o supplementary oxygen
Finns killed while climbing eight-thousanders
Finns killed while climbing eight-thousanders
No.
Name
Mountain
Range
Date
1.
Noora Toivonen
Cho Oyu
Khumbu Himal
4 May 2000
2.
Samuli Mansikka
Annapurna I
Annapurna
25 March 2015
Related Research Articles
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone.
Ryszard Pawłowski - Polish alpine and high-altitude climber and photographer. Member of The Explorers Club.
Artur Henryk "Słon” Hajzer was a Polish mountaineer. Hajzer summitted seven eight-thousanders, several via new routes and made the first winter climb of Annapurna on February 3, 1987.
Simone Moro is an Italian mountaineer known for having made first winter ascents of four of the fourteen eight-thousanders: Shishapangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009, Gasherbrum II in 2011, and Nanga Parbat in 2016. No other climber has made more first winter ascents of an eight-thousander in history. He has summited Everest four times, in 2000, 2002, 2006, and 2010.
Iñaki Ochoa de Olza was a Spanish climber. Ochoa de Olza took part in more than thirty separate climbing expeditions in the Himalayas over the course of his career, and was involved in more than 200 expeditions as a guide. His records included climbing 12 of the world's 14 tallest mountains without the aid of oxygen. Ochoa went on record as saying that he did not believe in using oxygen to climb mountains, claiming "if you use oxygen, you are not an alpinist; you are more of an astronaut or a scuba diver.". He died of pulmonary edema in May 2008 while climbing Annapurna.
Alberto Iñurrategi Iriarte is a Basque Spanish mountaineer born in Aretxabaleta, Gipuzkoa, Basque Country. In the year 2002, he became the second Basque and Spaniard and the 10th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.
Ralf Dujmovits is a German mountaineer. In May 2009 he became the 16th person, and the first German, to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.
Carlos Soria Fontán is a Spanish mountaineer who has taken up the challenge of becoming the oldest person in the world to reach the summits of the 14 eight-thousanders. He is the only climber to have ascended ten mountains of more than 8,000 meters after turning 60, and is the oldest person in history to have successfully climbed K2, Broad Peak (68), Makalu (69), Gasherbrum I (70), Manaslu, Kanchenjunga and Annapurna.
Tunç Fındık is a Turkish professional climber, mountaineer, mountain guide, author, and motivational speaker.
Shehroze Kashif is a Pakistani mountaineer who became the youngest climber in the world to summit K2 on 27 July 2021. He became the youngest Pakistani to summit Mount Everest on 11 May 2021. After the successful summit of Mount Everest, Sports Board Punjab made him the youth ambassador of Punjab, Pakistan. He summited Broad Peak at the age of 17, after which he was called 'The Broad Boy'.
Adriana Brownlee is an English mountaineer, certified paragliding pilot, and adventure athlete. She is the youngest woman to have climbed the world’s second highest peak K2 on July 28, 2022 and youngest woman to climb all 14 of the eight-thousander peaks on 28 July 2022.
Kristin Harila is a Norwegian-Northern Saami mountaineer and former cross-country skier. During 2022–2023, she set multiple speed records for the ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders, which are the peaks in the world that are over 8,000 metres in elevation.
Dawa Ongju Sherpa- Nepali: दावा ओङ्जु शेर्पा is a Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer. He has climbed 13 of the 14 highest peaks in the world.
Sajid Ali Sadpara ; is a Pakistani high-altitude mountaineer.
Naila Kiani ; is the leading Pakistani female high altitude mountaineer. Kiani is the first Pakistani woman & overall third Pakistani to climb 11 of the 14 highest peaks above 8,000-metres. She is one of the ten mountaineers worldwide and the only Pakistani who climbed multiple above 8000m in less than six months. Kiani is also the fastest Pakistani to climb all eleven 8,000-metre peaks in less than three years.
Sirbaz Khan is a Pakistani mountaineer. He is the first Pakistani to summit all 14 eighth-thousander peaks in the world.
Tenjen Sherpa, also known as Tenjen Lama Sherpa, was a Nepalese mountaineer who climbed all 14 eight-thousander together with Kristin Harila in 92 days. He went missing after an avalanche hit on Shishapangma on 7 October 2023. He was declared dead by Chinese authorities on 8 October 2023.
Anni Katri Penttilä is a Finnish mountaineer from Helsinki, who in civilian life works as a digital marketing entrepreneur and a tour guide in Tanzania and Nepal.
References
1 2 "Suomalaiset yli 8000m huiputtaneet"[‘Finns who have summitted eight-thousanders’]. alppikerho.fi (in Finnish). Suomen Alppikerho. 20 March 2019. Retrieved 10 October 2024.
↑ Peter Gillman, ed. (1993). Everest – The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Human Endeavour. Little, Brown and Company. pp.10–13. ISBN978-0-316-90489-6.
↑ "India and China". The Times. No.22490. 4 October 1856. p.8.
↑ "Papers relating to the Himalaya and Mount Everest". Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society of London. IX: 345–351. April–May 1857.
↑ H. Adams Carter (1985). "Classification of the Himalaya"(PDF). American Alpine Journal. 27 (59). American Alpine Club: 116–120. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
↑ Petri Laine (15 February 2017). "Everest ilman lisähappea 20 vuotta sitten"[‘Everest without supplementary oxygen 20 years ago’]. Retki.fi (in Finnish). Retki-lehti. Retrieved 14 October 2024.
1 2 Anni Penttilä (2024). "Anni Penttilä". vuorenvarma.fi. Anni Penttilä. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
↑ Malla Murtomäki (21 November 2021). "Viimein huipulla"[‘At the summit at last’]. Helsingin Sanomat (in Finnish). Helsinki: Sanoma Oyj. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
↑ "K2". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 14 October 2024.
↑ Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Hodder & Stoughton. p.25. ISBN978-0-340-66007-2.
↑ Scheid, C. S. (2014). "Hidden land and changing landscape: Narratives about Mount Khangchendzonga among the Lepcha and the Lhopo". Journal of the Irish Society for the Academic Study of Religions. 1 (1): 66–89.
↑ C. S. Scheid (2014). "Hidden land and changing landscape: Narratives about Mount Khangchendzonga among the Lepcha and the Lhopo". Journal of the Irish Society for the Academic Study of Religions. 1 (1): 66–89.
↑ H.T. Colebrooke, Thomas Thomson (January 1818). "On the height of the Himalaya mountains". Annals of Philosophy. XI (LXI). Robert Baldwin (United Kingdom): 47–52. Retrieved 14 October 2024.
↑ "Manaslu". Summitpost. Retrieved 14 October 2024.
↑ Anni Penttilä (2024). "Manaslu 8163 metriä – viimein huipulla"[‘Manaslu 8163 metres — finally at the summit’]. vuorenvarma.fi (in Finnish). Anni Penttilä. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
↑ "The Eight-Thousanders". www.earthobservatory.nasa.gov. 17 December 2013. Retrieved 14 October 2024.
↑ Searle, M. P. (2013). Colliding continents: a geological exploration of the Himalaya, Karakoram, and Tibet. Oxford: Oxford University Press. pp.63–64. ISBN978-0-19-965300-3.
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