Luna Peak (Washington)

Luna Peak
Luna Peak
	Luna Peak far left and Mount Fury at far right
Highest point
Elevation	8,311 ft (2,533 m) NGVD 29
Prominence	3,105 ft (946 m)
Coordinates	48°49′50″N121°16′23″W / 48.83056°N 121.27306°W
Geography
	Luna Peak North Cascades National Park, Whatcom County, Washington, U.S. Luna Peak Luna Peak (the United States)
Parent range	Picket Range, North Cascades
Topo map	USGS Mount Challenger
Climbing
First ascent	September 1938, by Bill Cox and Will F. Thompson
Easiest route	scramble, (class 3/4)

Last updated January 07, 2024

Luna Peak is the second highest mountain^[3] in the Picket Range,^[4] an extremely rugged subrange of the North Cascades in the American state of Washington. It is located within North Cascades National Park. It is notable for its large local relief and isolated position on a far-flung eastern ridge of the Pickets. For example, it rises over 6,560 ft (2,000 m) in 1.8 mi (2.9 km) above McMillan Creek to the south.

Luna Peak was first climbed in early September 1938, by Bill Cox and Will F. Thompson.^[5] The standard route is the Southwest Ridge, approached from Ross Lake and Big Beaver Creek. It requires strenuous off-trail hiking including bushwhacking and tricky route-finding, but offers the promise of solitude, as the peak is rarely climbed. The final climb to the true summit involves exposed scrambling on loose rock, and some parties will want a rope (Class 3/4).

The north and east faces of Luna Peak are steep and dramatic, but are not popular with mountaineers. Fred Beckey stated, "the peak lacks the compelling appeal of attractive alpine climbing problems."^[5]

Climate

Luna Peak is located in the marine west coast climate zone of western North America.^[6] Most weather fronts originate in the Pacific Ocean, and travel northeast toward the Cascade Mountains. As fronts approach the North Cascades, they are forced upward by the peaks of the Cascade Range, causing them to drop their moisture in the form of rain or snowfall onto the Cascades (Orographic lift). As a result, the west side of the North Cascades experiences high precipitation, especially during the winter months in the form of snowfall. During winter months, weather is usually cloudy, but, due to high pressure systems over the Pacific Ocean that intensify during summer months, there is often little or no cloud cover during the summer.^[6] Because of maritime influence, snow tends to be wet and heavy, resulting in high avalanche danger.^[6]

Geology

The North Cascades features some of the most rugged topography in the Cascade Range with craggy peaks, spires, ridges, and deep glacial valleys. Geological events occurring many years ago created the diverse topography and drastic elevation changes over the Cascade Range leading to the various climate differences.

The history of the formation of the Cascade Mountains dates back millions of years ago to the late Eocene Epoch.^[7] With the North American Plate overriding the Pacific Plate, episodes of volcanic igneous activity persisted.^[7] In addition, small fragments of the oceanic and continental lithosphere called terranes created the North Cascades about 50 million years ago.^[7]

During the Pleistocene period dating back over two million years ago, glaciation advancing and retreating repeatedly scoured and shaped the landscape.^[7] A small glacial remnant lies on the south slope of Dorado Needle, whereas the northern slope maintains the extensive McAllister Glacier. The U-shaped cross section of the river valleys is a result of recent glaciation. Uplift and faulting in combination with glaciation have been the dominant processes which have created the tall peaks and deep valleys of the North Cascades area.

Related Research Articles

Mount Despair is a rugged mountain in the North Unit of North Cascades National Park in Washington state. Northeast of Mount Despair lies the Picket Range.

Sahale Mountain is a jagged, glaciated mountain, in North Cascades National Park, in northern Washington state. The summit of Sahale Mountain is referred to as Sahale Peak. It is 0.3 miles (0.48 km) south of its higher neighbor, Boston Peak, and the saddle between the two is 80 feet (24 m) lower than Sahale's summit. Quien Sabe Glacier is to the west of the ridge between the two peaks while Davenport Glacier is in a cirque east of this ridge and above Horseshoe Basin. Sahale Glacier is south of the summit and east of Sahale Arm, a ridge that extends southwest from Sahale to Cascade Pass. The name Sahale may originate from a Northwest Native American word meaning "high place," "falcon," or "sacred."

Mount Blum, or Mount Bald, is a 7,685-foot (2,342 m) summit of the North Cascades range in Washington state, on the western edge of North Cascades National Park. It is the highest summit of a string of mountain peaks located east of Mount Shuksan and west of the Picket Range. Two small active glaciers rest on its northern flank. Mount Blum was named after John Blum, a United States Forest Service fire patrol pilot who perished in a plane crash near Snoqualmie Pass in 1931.

Forbidden Peak is an 8,815 feet (2,687 m) glacial horn located in North Cascades National Park, in Skagit County of Washington state. It is part of the North Cascades and is located near Cascade Pass. Forbidden Peak features a rock climbing route named West Ridge route which is featured in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. The peak was first climbed by a party consisting of Fred Beckey, his brother Helmy Beckey, Jim Crooks, Lloyd Anderson and Dave Lind in 1940.

Sinister Peak is in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Wenatchee National Forests in the U.S. state of Washington. It is situated in Glacier Peak Wilderness and the North Cascades. Not quite 1 mi (1.6 km) east of Dome Peak, Sinister Peak is along a high ridge connecting the two peaks. The Chickamin Glacier is on the north slopes of Sinister Peak while the Garden Glacier is just southeast. Though some of the routes to the summit are technical, it can be reached by a moderate scramble.

Mesahchie Peak is in North Cascades National Park in the U.S. state of Washington. Mesahchie Peak is named after the Chinook word for wicked. Mesahchie Peak is the highest summit along a ridge known as Ragged Ridge and is only .25 mi (0.40 km) east of Katsuk Peak. Both the Katsuk and Mesahchie Glaciers descended down the northwest and northeast flanks of the peak respectively.

Mount Fury, elevation 8,356+ ft, is in North Cascades National Park in the U.S. state of Washington. Several small glaciers are on the slopes of Mount Fury, and it is the highest peak in the Picket Range. A theodolite survey of West and East Fury on Oct 22, 2022, established the altitudes of the two peaks of Fury. West Fury was set at 8,305ft +/-10 feet and East Fury as 8,356 +/- 8ft. This makes East Fury one of the 100 highest peaks in the State of Washington. Luna is now the second highest peak in the Picket Range.

Crooked Thumb Peak is located in North Cascades National Park in the U.S. state of Washington. Located in the northern section of the park, Crooked Thumb Peak is in the Picket Range and is .50 mi (0.80 km) south of Mount Challenger and the same distance north of Phantom Peak.

McMillan Spire is a mountain peak in the Picket Range in the U.S. state of Washington and within North Cascades National Park. The peak lies .75 mi (1.21 km) east of Mount Degenhardt, and 0.47 mi (0.76 km) east of Inspiration Peak. The subpeak known as East McMillan Spire is .14 mi (0.23 km) east of McMillan Spire and they are collectively referred to as the McMillan Spires. The Terror Glacier lies to the west of the peak.

Prusik Peak is an 8000+ ft granite summit located at the west end of The Temple in Chelan County of Washington state. Prusik Peak is part of The Enchantments within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, and is often the iconic photographic image of both areas. Prusik Peak belongs to the Stuart Range which is a subset of the Cascade Range. The name honors Dr. Karl Prusik (1896–1961) who was an Austrian mountaineer, and is known as the inventor of the prusik, a rope knot which happened to be used to gain access to the summit horn during the first ascent by Fred Beckey in 1948. Precipitation runoff drains into Icicle Creek, a tributary of the Wenatchee River.

Enchantment Peak is an 8,520+ ft granite summit located in Chelan County of Washington state. Enchantment Peak is part of The Enchantments within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Enchantment Peak belongs to the Stuart Range which is subset of the Cascade Range. Enchantment Peak is situated midway between Prusik Peak to its east, and Aasgard Pass and Dragontail Peak to the west. Precipitation runoff drains into Icicle Creek, a tributary of the Wenatchee River.

Jabberwocky Tower is a 6,840-foot-elevation granite spire located in Chelan County of Washington state. Jabberwocky Tower is part of The Enchantments within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. It belongs to the Stuart Range which is subset of the Cascade Range. Jabberwocky Tower is situated east of Colchuck Lake and west of Enchantment Peak. Precipitation runoff drains into Icicle Creek, a tributary of the Wenatchee River.

Inspiration Peak is a 7,880+ ft mountain summit located in the Picket Range within North Cascades National Park in the state of Washington. The peak lies 0.28 mi (0.45 km) east of Mount Degenhardt, and 0.47 mi (0.76 km) west of McMillan Spires. Terror Glacier remnants lie to the south of the peaks, and the McMillan Cirque glaciers hang on the north slopes. The first ascent of Inspiration Peak was made in 1940 by Fred Beckey and his brother Helmy via the West Ridge. Inspiration Peak can be seen from the North Cascades National Park Newhalem visitor center, weather permitting.

The Chopping Block is a 6,819-foot (2,078-metre) mountain summit located in the Picket Range within North Cascades National Park in the state of Washington. The mountain is officially named Pinnacle Peak on maps, but hardly anyone calls it by that name. The nearest higher peak is Mount Degenhardt, 0.6 mi (0.97 km) to the northeast. The Chopping Block can be seen from the North Cascades National Park Newhalem visitor center, weather permitting. Precipitation runoff from the peak drains into Goodell Creek, a tributary of the Skagit River.

Colchuck Balanced Rock is an 8,200+ ft granite mountain summit located in Chelan County of Washington state. Colchuck Balanced Rock is part of The Enchantments within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. It belongs to the Stuart Range which is subset of the Cascade Range. Colchuck Balanced Rock is situated west of Enchantment Peak, and east of Jabberwocky Tower and Colchuck Lake. Precipitation runoff from the peak drains into the lake and Mountaineer Creek, a tributary of Icicle Creek. The climbing approach is via the Colchuck Lake Trail, then traversing away from Aasgard Pass approximately 400 feet above the lake. The mountain is named for its pyramidal summit which has a top-block that nests, rather than balances, on the summit. The mountain and glacier take their name from the lake, which in Chinook jargon means "cold water".

Himmelhorn is a 7,880+ ft mountain summit located in the remote and rugged Picket Range within North Cascades National Park in the state of Washington. The peak lies 0.7 mi (1.1 km) west of Mount Terror and the small Mustard Glacier lies on its northern slope. The first ascent of Himmelhorn was made on September 8, 1961, by Ed Cooper, Glen Denny, Joan and Joe Firey, and George Whitmore. Originally called Himmelgeisterhorn, Himmelhorn means Horn of the Sky Spirit.

Twin Needles are a pair of 7,936-foot (2,419-metre) and 7,840+ ft spires located in the remote and rugged Picket Range within North Cascades National Park in the state of Washington. The peaks are situated 0.55 mi (0.89 km) west of Mount Terror which is the nearest higher peak. The Mustard Glacier lies on the northern slope of the peaks, and Himmelhorn lies immediately west. The first ascent of Twin Needles was made on August 17, 1932, by William Degenhardt, James Martin, and Herb Strandberg. Twin Needles can be seen from the 100 meter Sterling Munro Trail located behind the park's Newhalem Visitor Center.

Mother Lode is a 7,905-foot-elevation (2,409-meter) mountain summit located in the North Cascades, in Okanogan County, Washington. It is situated in the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness, on land managed by Okanogan–Wenatchee National Forest. The mountain is part of the Methow Mountains, which are a subset of the Cascade Range, and the peak is approximately two miles east of the crest of the range. Mother Lode is set approximately six miles south of Washington Pass, and the nearest higher neighbor is Gilbert Mountain, three miles to the northeast. Topographic relief is significant as the north aspect rises 3,500 feet above the South Fork Twisp River in one mile. The peak was climbed in 1983 by Rick La Belle and Glen Sterr via the north ridge, and the northeast ridge was climbed in 1985 by Carl and Gordon Skoog. Precipitation runoff from the peak drains into tributaries of Twisp River, which in turn is a tributary of the Methow River.

Edward Peak, also known as The Mole, is a 7,280-foot (2,219-metre) granite summit located in Chelan County of Washington state. It is set within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, on land managed by Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. Edward Peak belongs to the Stuart Range which is a subset of the Cascade Range. It is situated 1.9 miles (3.1 km) north of The Temple, and the nearest town is Leavenworth, 7 miles (11 km) to the northeast. Precipitation runoff from the mountain drains north into Icicle Creek via Rat Creek.

Wedge Mountain is a 5,860-foot-elevation (1,786-meter) summit located in Chelan County of Washington state. It is set on the boundary line of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, on land managed by Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. Wedge Mountain is the northeastern terminus of the Stuart Range, which is a subset of the Cascade Range. It is situated 3.5 miles (5.6 km) northeast of The Temple, and the nearest town is Leavenworth, 5 miles (8.0 km) to the north-northeast. Precipitation runoff from the mountain drains into tributaries of the Wenatchee River. Topographic relief is significant as the summit rises over 2,800 feet above Snow Creek in one-half mile. Backpackers hiking en route to The Enchantments via the Snow Creek Trail traverse the western foot of this mountain. Wedge Mountain is the toponym officially adopted by the U.S. Board on Geographic Names for the 5,860-foot summit.

References

1 2 "Luna Peak, Washington". Peakbagger.com.
↑ "Luna Peak". Geographic Names Information System . United States Geological Survey, United States Department of the Interior . Retrieved June 8, 2013.
↑ Gilbertson PhD, Eric (October 27, 2022). "Luna, East Fury, West Fury Theodolite Survey". Country Highpoints. Retrieved June 4, 2023.
↑ Majors, Harry M. (1975). Exploring Washington. Van Winkle Publishing Co. p. 31. ISBN 978-0-918664-00-6.
1 2 Beckey, Fred W. (2009). Cascade Alpine Guide: climbing and high routes, Vol. 3, Rainy Pass to Fraser River (3rd ed.). Mountaineers Books. p. 118. ISBN 978-1-59485-136-0.
1 2 3 Beckey, Fred W. Cascade Alpine Guide, Climbing and High Routes. Seattle, WA: Mountaineers Books, 2008.
1 2 3 4 Kruckeberg, Arthur (1991). The Natural History of Puget Sound Country. University of Washington Press.

External links

"Luna Peak" (map). TopoQuest.com.
"Luna Peak". SummitPost.org.
"Luna Peak". Bivouac.com.
"Cascades National Park". National Park Service.
Luna Peak photo: Flickr

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[pb-1] 1 2 "Luna Peak, Washington". Peakbagger.com.

[gnis-2] "Luna Peak". Geographic Names Information System . United States Geological Survey, United States Department of the Interior . Retrieved June 8, 2013.

[eric-3] Gilbertson PhD, Eric (October 27, 2022). "Luna, East Fury, West Fury Theodolite Survey". Country Highpoints. Retrieved June 4, 2023.

[majors-4] Majors, Harry M. (1975). Exploring Washington. Van Winkle Publishing Co. p. 31. ISBN 978-0-918664-00-6.

[becky-5] 1 2 Beckey, Fred W. (2009). Cascade Alpine Guide: climbing and high routes, Vol. 3, Rainy Pass to Fraser River (3rd ed.). Mountaineers Books. p. 118. ISBN 978-1-59485-136-0.

[Beckey,_Fred_W_2008-6] 1 2 3 Beckey, Fred W. Cascade Alpine Guide, Climbing and High Routes. Seattle, WA: Mountaineers Books, 2008.

[Kruckeberg-7] 1 2 3 4 Kruckeberg, Arthur (1991). The Natural History of Puget Sound Country. University of Washington Press.

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