弁服; pinyin :biànfú) is a historical set of attire in Hanfu consisting of a knee-length Chinese upper garment known as jiangshapao (Chinese :绛纱袍) over a qun ,a Chinese skirt,known as hong chang (Chinese :红裳; lit. 'red skirt ') or pair of ku -trousers along with other accessories. [1] [2] Coupled with the Chinese headwear known as pibian,the complete set of attire is also referred as pibianfu (Chinese :皮弁服). [2] This set of attire was considered to be a ceremonial dress. [1] In the Zhou dynasty,the bianfu was only ranked-second after the mianfu and it was worn by the emperors when he would work on official business or when he would meet with the court officials. [3]
The upper garment known as jiangshapao (simplified Chinese :绛纱袍; traditional Chinese :絳紗袍) which was red in colour [2] and extended all the way to the knees. [1] This was typically worn over a red skirt known as hong chang (Chinese :红裳; lit. 'red skirt ') that reached the length of the ankles. [1] The wearing of a qun under an upper garment was only worn during formal occasions. [1] Over the hongchang,the wearer wore a red coloured bixi . [2] Under the red outer garments,an inner garment known as zhongdan (Chinese :中单) was worn. [2] A yugui (Chinese :玉圭; lit. ' jade tablet') would be held in its wearer's hands;it was further accessorized with yupei (Chinese :玉佩),daxiaoshou (Chinese :大小绶;a ribbon-like accessory),and the belt called dadai (simplified Chinese :大带; traditional Chinese :大帶). [2] The bian (Chinese :弁),also known as pibian (Chinese :皮弁),was a cylinder-shaped guan (headwear) that completed the outfit. [1]
Gwanbok is a Korean term which was borrowed from the Chinese terms guanfu and guanfu. The term gwanbok is a collective term which refers to historical official attire,which was bestowed by the government court,including Chinese courts of various dynasties. The guanfu (冠服) system was a court attire system in China which also formed part of the Hanfu system. This system was them spread to neighbouring countries and was adopted in Korea since ancient times in different periods through the ritual practice of bestowal of clothing. Acknowledgement through bestowed robes and crowns (冠服) from the Emperor of China,who held hegemony over East Asia,would give support to Korean Kings and successors,as being the authentic rulers of their country as well as confirmed the political status of the Korean kingdom in the rest of the Sinosphere. The gwanbok system in Korea was different for each kingdom and changed throughout different periods. For example,initially given by the Chinese court in ritual practice,successive gwanbok were more often than not locally manufactured in Korea with different colours and adopted into hanbok. The gwanbok,which was used as the uniform of court officials,formed part of the gwanbok system and was used like the suit is nowadays.
Ruqun is a set of attire in Hanfu which consists of a short jacket typically called ru worn under a long Chinese skirt called qun. However,when use as a general term,ruqun can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment and a wrap-around lower skirt,or yichang,in which yi means the "upper garment" and the chang means the "lower garment". In a broad sense,ruqun can include the shanqun and aoqun in its definition.
Chang-ao,lit. translated as "long jacket" or "long ao",is a historical long-length,Chinese upper garment called ao (袄),which was worn by women. It is also known as da ao (大袄) and chang ru which appears to be the precursor of the ao.
Daopao,also known as xuezi when used as a Xifu during Chinese opera performances,and deluo when it is blue in colour,is a traditional form of paofu in Hanfu and is also one of the most distinctive form of traditional clothing for the Han Chinese. The daopao was one of the most common traditional form of outer robe worn by men. Daopao literally means "Taoist robe";however,despite its name,the daopao were and is worn by men,and did not imply that its wearer had some affiliation to taoism. The daopao can be dated back to at least the Ming dynasty but had actually been worn since the Song dynasty. Initially the daopao was a form of casual clothing which was worn by the middle or lower class in the Ming dynasty. In the middle and late Ming,it was one of the most common form of robes worn by men as casual clothing. The daopao was also a popular formal wear by the Ming dynasty scholars in their daily lives. It was also the daily clothing for the literati scholars in the Ming dynasty. In the late Ming,it was also a popular form of clothing among the external officials and eunuchs sometimes wore it. The daopao was also introduced in Korea during the Joseon period,where it became known as dopo and was eventually localized in its current form.
Shenyi,also called Deep garment in English,means "wrapping the body deep within the clothes" or "to wrap the body deep within cloth". The shenyi is an iconic form of robe in Hanfu,which was recorded in Liji and advocated in Zhu Xi's Zhuzi jiali《朱子家禮》. As cited in the Liji,the shenyi is a long robe which is created when the "upper half is connected to the bottom half to cover the body fully". The shenyi,along with its components,existed prior to the Zhou dynasty and appeared at least since the Shang dynasty. The shenyi was then developed in Zhou dynasty with a complete system of attire,being shaped by the Zhou dynasty's strict hierarchical system in terms of social levels,gender,age,and situation and was used as a basic form of clothing. The shenyi then became the mainstream clothing choice during the Qin and Han dynasties. By the Han dynasty,the shenyi had evolved into two types of robes:the qujupao and the zhijupao. The shenyi later gradually declined in popularity around the Wei,Jin,and Northern and Southern dynasties period. However,the shenyi's influence persisted in the following dynasties. The shenyi then became a form of formal wear for scholar-officials in the Song and Ming dynasties. Chinese scholars also recorded and defined the meaning of shenyi since the ancient times,such as Zhu Xi in the Song dynasty,Huang Zongxi in the Ming dynasty,and Jiang Yong in the Qing dynasty.
Daxiushan,also referred as dianchailiyi,dashan,daxiu,is a form of shan,a traditional Chinese upper garment,with broad sleeves in Hanfu. It was most popular during the Tang dynasty,particularly among the members of royalty. The daxiushan was mainly worn for special ceremonial occasions and had different variations,mainly the result of different collar formations. The daxiushan could be worn under a skirt or as an outerwear. After the Tang dynasty,it continued to be worn in the Song and Ming dynasties.
Hanfu are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of hanfu,such as the ruqun,the aoqun,the beizi and the shenyi,and the shanku.
Zaju chuishao fu,also called Guiyi,and sometimes referred as "Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing" or "swallow tail" clothing for short in English,is a form of set of attire in hanfu which was worn by Chinese women. The zaju chuishao fu can be traced back to the pre-Han period and appears to have originated the sandi of the Zhou dynasty;it then became popular during the Han,Cao Wei,Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties. It was a common form of aristocratic costumes in the Han and Wei dynasties and was also a style of formal attire for elite women. The zaju chuishao fu can be further divided into two categories of clothing style based on its cut and construction:the guipao,and the guichang.
Qixiong ruqun,which can also be referred as Qixiong shanqun,also known as "chest-high ruqun",is a set of attire in hanfu,the traditional Chinese clothing worn by the Han Chinese. The qixiong ruqun is a unique style of ruqun,which is characterized with a high waistline qun,Chinese skirt. The qun used in the qixiong ruqun is generally tied above the bust level. It was worn by women during the Southern dynasties,Sui dynasty,Tang dynasty and Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period. The style was also revived in the early and middle Ming dynasty.
Qungua,also known as longfenggua,or longfeng qungua,or guaqun,is one type of two-piece ceremonial traditional Chinese wedding set of attire,which is composed of a jacket called gua (褂) and of a long Chinese skirt called qun (裙). The qungua is a type of Hanfu worn by Han Chinese brides and originated in the 18th century during the Qing dynasty. It eventually became the traditional wedding attire of Cantonese brides in the Guangdong regions. It is traditionally handmade and is decorated with dragons and phoenixes embroideries. Nowadays,the qungua is still popular as a wedding dress in China,including in Hong kong and Macau.
Bixi,also known as fu,is generic term which refers to a type of traditional Chinese decorative piece of fabric,which acts as a knee covering,in Hanfu. The bixi originated in China where it originated from the primitive clothing of the ancient;since then,it continued to be worn by both men and women,and eventually became part of the Chinese ceremonial attire. The bixi was later introduced in Korea during Goryeo and Joseon by the Ming dynasty,along with many garments for royalties.
Mamianqun,also known as mamianzhequn,sometimes simply referred as 'apron',a generic term in English to refer to any Chinese-style skirt,or 'paired apron' in English although they are not aprons as defined in the dictionary,is a type of qun,a traditional Chinese skirt worn by the Han Chinese women as lower garment item in Hanfu and is one of the main representatives of ancient Chinese-style skirts. It originated in the Song and Liao dynasties and became popular due to its functionality and its aesthetics style. It continued to be worn in the Yuan,Ming,and Qing dynasties where it was a typical style of skirt for women and was favoured for its unique aesthetic style and functionality. Following the fall of the Qing dynasty,the mamianqun continued to be worn in the Republic of China,and only disappeared in the 1920s and 1930s following the increased popularity of the cheongsam. As a type of xifu,Chinese opera costumes,the mamianqun maintains its long tradition and continues to be worn nowadays. In the 21st century,the mamianqun regained popularity with the emergence of the Hanfu movement. The mamianqun has experienced various fashion changes throughout history. It was typically paired with ku,Chinese trousers and Chinese jackets,typically either the ao or gua.
Tongtianguanfu is a form of court attire in hanfu which was worn by the Emperor during the Song dynasty on very important occasions,such as grand court sessions and during major title-granting ceremonies. The attire traces its origin from the Han Dynasty.It was also worn in the Jin dynasty Emperors when the apparel system of the Song dynasty was imitated and formed their own carriages and apparel system,and in the Ming dynasty. The tongtianguanfu was composed of a red outer robe,a white inner robe,a bixi,and a guan called tongtianguan,and a neck accessory called fangxin quling.
Guan,literally translated as hat or cap or crown in English,is a general term which refers to a type of headwear in Hanfu which covers a small area of the upper part of the head instead of the entire head. The guan was typically a formal form of headwear which was worn together with its corresponding court dress attire. There were sumptuary laws which regulated the wearing of guan;however,these laws were not fixed;and thus,they would differ from dynasty to dynasty. There were various forms and types of guan.
Ku or kuzi,collectively refers to the traditional Chinese trousers in Hanfu in the broad sense. Ku can also refer to the kaidangku,which are Chinese trousers without a rise as opposed to the trousers with a rise,referred as hedangku or kun in ancient times.
Qun,referred as chang prior to the Han dynasty,chang and xiachang,and sometimes referred as apron in English even though they are not apron as defined in the English dictionary,is a generic term which refers to the Chinese skirts used in Hanfu,especially those worn as part of ruqun,and in Xifu. The qun and its predecessor,the chang,along with the upper garment called yi and the trousers called ku,are all indigenous clothing of the Zhongyuan,which conformed to the fashion style of the Chinese civilization in ancient times. Both the qun and the chang,were both typically in the form of a wrap-around skirt like an apron. However,throughout Chinese history,the chang eventually evolved into the qun;and the qun evolved in diverse shapes,styles,and construction throughout the succeeding dynasties. The qun continued to exist even in the Republic of China. Several forms of ancient-style qun regained popularity in the 21st century following the Hanfu movement;this also inspired the development of new styles of qun with modern aesthetics and shapes.
Traditional Chinese wedding dress is a collective term which refers to all the different forms and styles of traditional wedding attire worn by the Han Chinese when performing their marriage ceremony,including the traditional Chinese marriage. There are various forms of traditional Chinese wedding dress in the history of China. Since the Zhou dynasty,there have national laws and rules which regulated the different categories of clothing and personal accessories;these regulations have created various categories of clothing attire,including the traditional wedding attire of the Chinese people.
Xiuhefu is a two-piece garment set of attire which was designed to look like a style of traditional Chinese wedding dress and follows the traditional Chinese yichang clothing system. The Xiuhefu is a modern recreation version of the Qing dynasty wedding aoqun,a form of Hanfu,which was worn by the Han Chinese women,composed of a qun as lower garment and an ao as an upper garment. It was developed in modern China and became popular in 2001 when it was popularized by when Zhou Xun,the actress who played the role of Xiu He,in the Chinese television drama Juzi Hongle(橘子紅了;'Orange turned red'),thus gaining its contemporary name from name of the television drama character. It is often confused with another traditional Chinese wedding dress known as qungua due to their similarities in appearance.
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