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Standard Mandarin | |
Hanyu Pinyin | Mǎngfú |
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Standard Mandarin | |
Hanyu Pinyin | Mǎngpáo |
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Standard Mandarin | |
Hanyu Pinyin | Huāyī |
Mangfu (Chinese : 蟒服 ; pinyin :mǎngfú; lit. 'python clothing/python garment'),also known as mangpao (Chinese : 蟒袍 ; pinyin :mǎngpáo; lit. 'python robe'),huayi (Chinese : 花衣 ; pinyin :Huāyī; lit. 'flower clothing'),and python robe,sometimes referred as dragon robe although they are different garments,in English,is a type of paofu ,a robe,in hanfu . The mangfu falls under the broad category of mangyi (Chinese : 蟒衣 ; pinyin :mǎngyī; lit. 'python clothes'),where the mangfu is considered as being the classic form of mangyi. [1] The mangfu was characterized by the use of a python embroidery called mang (Chinese : 蟒 ; pinyin :mǎng; lit. 'python') although the python embroidery is not a python snake as defined in the English dictionary but a four-clawed Chinese dragon-like creature. [2] The mangfu was derived from the longpao (simplified Chinese : 龙袍 ; traditional Chinese : 龍袍 ; pinyin :lóngpáo; lit. ' dragon robe ') in order to differentiate monarchs and subjects;i.e. only the Emperor is allowed to wear the long ,five-clawed dragon,while his subjects wears mang. [3] [4] : 18, 20 The mangfu was worn in the Ming and Qing dynasties. [2] [5] They had special status among the Chinese court clothing as they were only second to the longpao. [1] [6] : 204 Moreover,their use were restricted,and they were part of a special category of clothing known as cifu (simplified Chinese :赐服; traditional Chinese :賜服; pinyin :cìfú; lit. 'bestowed clothing'),which could only be awarded by the Chinese Emperor (or by the Empress Dowager on the behalf of the Emperor) in the Ming and Qing dynasties,becoming "a sign of imperial favour". [1] [4] : 18, 20 People who were bestowed with mangfu could not exchange it with or gifted it to other people. [1] They were worn by members of the imperial family below of crown prince,by military and civil officials,and by Official wives. [2] [4] : 18, 20 As an official clothing,the mangfu were worn by officials during celebration occasions and ceremonial events. [2] [4] : 18, 20 They could also be bestowed by the Emperor to people who performed extraordinary services to the empire as rewards,to the members of the Grand Secretariat and to prominent Daoist patriarchs,imperial physicians,tributary countries and local chiefs whose loyalty were considered crucial to secure the borders. [1] The mangfu is also used as a form of xifu ,theatrical costume,in Chinese opera,where it is typically found in the form of a round-necked robe,known as yuanlingpao . [7] : 300 In Beijing opera,the mangfu used as xifu is known as Mang. [8]
Rank | Number of mang | Stipulated colour | |
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Crown prince | 9 | Apricot yellow | |
Princes | Golden | ||
Civil and military officials | 1st rank | Blue and azurite | |
2nd rank | |||
3rd rank | |||
4th rank | 8 | ||
5th rank | |||
6th rank | |||
7th rank | 5 | ||
8th rank | |||
9th rank |
The xifu , Chinese opera costumes, were made based on the clothing style of the Ming dynasty while also absorbing clothing features of the Song, Yuan, and Qing dynasties. [3] On stage, the theatrical mangfu is typically in the appearance of a yuanlingpao . [11] : 300
In Chinese opera, the theatrical mangfu is the highest of formal, ceremonial robe worn by performers in the roles of emperors, princes, officials (ministers for specific occasions, such as court audience), and generals. [7] [11] : 300
The theatrical mangfu has a male and female version; the mangfu patterns on the robes vary and can be found in: mang medallions, front-viewed mang and flying dragon. [7]
When decorated with flying dragon patterns, the robe is typically also decorated with patterns of waves and mountain peaks. [7] There is also strict regulations on the colours used in the theatrical mangfu; the colours are divided into "upper five colours" and "lower five colours", minghuang (bright yellow) colour is exclusively reserved for imperial usage. [7] Other colours included: red.
In Beijing opera, the mangfu xifu is known as Mang. [8] The Mang is used to represent the emperor have a dragon with an open mouth, while the dragon used on the Mang of the ministers and generals have their mouth closed. [8] The dragons looked bold and mighty when used on the Mang of martial officials but gentle and quiet when used in the Mang of civil officials. [8] There is also other kind of Mang which are specially made for female actresses, laodan, and palace eunuchs. [8]
The colours used in the Mang also have clear symbolism: red means majestic and noble; green means mighty and bold; white represents handsome young people; black is used to represent people who are upright and unconstrained. [8]
The Chinese dragon, also known as the loong, long or lung, is a legendary creature in Chinese mythology, Chinese folklore, and Chinese culture at large. Chinese dragons have many animal-like forms such as turtles and fish, but are most commonly depicted as snake-like with four legs. Academicians have identified four reliable theories on the origin of the Chinese dragon: snakes, Chinese alligators, thunder worship and nature worship. They traditionally symbolize potent and auspicious powers, particularly control over water.
A mandarin square, also known as a rank badge, was a large embroidered badge sewn onto the surcoat of officials in Imperial China, Korea, in Vietnam, and the Ryukyu Kingdom. It was embroidered with detailed, colourful animal or bird insignia indicating the rank of the official wearing it. Despite its name, the mandarin square falls into two categories: round buzi and square buzi. Clothing decorated with buzi is known as bufu in China. In the 21st century, the use of buzi on hanfu was revived following the Hanfu movement.
A yuanlingshan is a type of round-collared upper garment in the traditional Chinese style of clothing known as Hanfu; it is also referred to as a yuanlingpao or a panlingpao when used as a robe. The yuanlingshan and yuanlingpao were both developed under the influence of ancient Chinese clothing, known as Hufu, originating from the Donghu people during the early Han dynasty and later by the Wuhu, including the Xianbei people, during the Six Dynasties period. The yuanlingpao is an article of formal attire primarily worn by men, although in certain dynasties, such as the Tang dynasty, it was also fashionable for women to wear. In the Tang dynasty, the yuanlingpao could be transformed into the fanlingpao using buttons.
Daopao, also known as xuezi when used as a Xifu during Chinese opera performances, and deluo when it is blue in colour, is a traditional form of paofu in Hanfu and is also one of the most distinctive form of traditional clothing for the Han Chinese. The daopao was one of the most common traditional form of outer robe worn by men. Daopao literally means "Taoist robe"; however, despite its name, the daopao were and is worn by men, and did not imply that its wearer had some affiliation to taoism. The daopao can be dated back to at least the Ming dynasty but had actually been worn since the Song dynasty. Initially the daopao was a form of casual clothing which was worn by the middle or lower class in the Ming dynasty. In the middle and late Ming, it was one of the most common form of robes worn by men as casual clothing. The daopao was also a popular formal wear by the Ming dynasty scholars in their daily lives. It was also the daily clothing for the literati scholars in the Ming dynasty. In the late Ming, it was also a popular form of clothing among the external officials and eunuchs sometimes wore it. The daopao was also introduced in Korea during the Joseon period, where it became known as dopo and was eventually localized in its current form.
Dragon robes, also known as gunlongpao or longpao for short, is a form of everyday clothing which had a Chinese dragon, called long (龍), as the main decoration; it was worn by the emperors of China. Dragon robes were also adopted by the rulers of neighbouring countries, such as Korea, Vietnam, and the Ryukyu Kingdom.
Hanfu are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of hanfu, such as the ruqun, the aoqun, the beizi and the shenyi, and the shanku.
The fashion in the Yuan dynasty of Mongol (1271–1368) showed cultural diversity with the coexistence of various ethnic clothing, such as Mongol clothing, Han clothing and Korean clothing. The Mongol dress was the clothing of elite for both genders. Mongol attire worn in the 13th-14th century was different from the Han clothing from the Tang and Song dynasties. The Yuan dynasty court clothing also allowed the mixed of Mongol and Han style, and the official dress code of the Yuan dynasty also became a mixture of Han and Mongol clothing styles. After the founding of the Yuan dynasty, the Mongols strongly influenced the lifestyle and customs of the Han people.
Paofu, also known as pao for short, is a form of a long, one-piece robe in Hanfu, which is characterized by the natural integration of the upper and lower part of the robe which is cut from a single fabric. The term is often used to refer to the jiaolingpao and the yuanlingpao. The jiaolingpao was worn since the Zhou dynasty and became prominent in the Han dynasty. The jiaolingpao was a unisex, one-piece robe; while it was worn mainly by men, women could also wear it. It initially looked similar to the ancient shenyi; however, these two robes are structurally different from each other. With time, the ancient shenyi disappeared while the paofu evolved gaining different features in each succeeding dynasties; the paofu continues to be worn even in present day. The term paofu refers to the "long robe" worn by ancient Chinese, and can include several form of Chinese robes of various origins and cuts, including Changshan,Qipao, Shenyi,Tieli, Zhisun, Yesa.
Yesa robe, also known simply referred as Yesa, Yisan, or Yisa, is an ancient type of Chinese clothing worn during the Ming dynasty. It originated in the Ming dynasty but was influenced from clothing of the Yuan dynasty. It is sometimes described as being a sinicized version of the Mongol's jisün and could only be found in China. Yesa was a regular clothing in the Ming dynasty; it was initially worn in the palace and by the wealthy, and it later spread to the commoners.
Terlig, also known as tieli or bianxianao or Yaoxianao[zi] in Chinese, or commonly referred as Mongol dress or plait-line robe, is an archetypal type of Mongol clothing for men.
Yunjian, also known as Cloud collar in English and sometimes referred as châr-qâb, is a Chinese term which can either to a four-lobed motif, or to a traditional Chinese garment accessory item in Hanfu, the Traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, which is typically found in the form of a detachable collar with cloud patterns and is worn over the shoulders area, similar to a shawl. As an garment accessory, the yunjian is also typically found in four-lobed design although multi-lobed design also existed throughout history. The yunjian could also be applied directly on garments, where it would fall around the collar of robes onto the chest and shoulder region,or as a clothing appliqué. In China, the yunjian has both ceremonial and practical uses when used in clothing. As a garment item, the yunjian was an important clothing element for Chinese women, especially in the Ming and Qing dynasties; its usage was spread across China where it became associated with the Han Chinese's wedding clothing. In Henan, brides would wear yunjian decorated with hanging ribbons and bells. It also had the practical use of preventing clothing from being dirty and oily by covering up the clothes and by covering up the stains. The yunjian is used in Peranakan wedding; the multi-layered yunjian worn by Chinese brides on the day of their wedding is sometimes known as "phoenix collar". The yunjian also started to be worn by the Non-Chinese, the Tartars of northern China and Manchuria in the later medieval period.
Qungua, also known as longfenggua, or longfeng qungua, or guaqun, is one type of two-piece ceremonial traditional Chinese wedding set of attire, which is composed of a jacket called gua (褂) and of a long Chinese skirt called qun (裙). The qungua is a type of Hanfu worn by Han Chinese brides and originated in the 18th century during the Qing dynasty. It eventually became the traditional wedding attire of Cantonese brides in the Guangdong regions. It is traditionally handmade and is decorated with dragons and phoenixes embroideries. Nowadays, the qungua is still popular as a wedding dress in China, including in Hong kong and Macau.
Feiyufu, also called feiyu mangyi, is a type of traditional Han Chinese clothing which first appeared in the Ming dynasty. It is also specific name which generally refers to a robe decorated with the patterns of flying fish. The feiyufu worn by the Ming dynasty imperial guards reappeared in the 21st century following the hanfu movement and is worn by Hanfu enthusiasts of both genders.
Ucinaasugai, also known as Ryusou and referred as ushinchi in Okinawan, is the traditional dress of the Ryukyuan people. Ryusou is a form of formal attire; it is customary to wear it on occasions such as wedding ceremony and the coming-of-age ceremony. The ryusou became popular during the Ryukyu Kingdom period. It was originally worn by the members of the royal family and by the nobles of Ryukyu Kingdom. The Ryukyu Kingdom was originally an independent nation which established trade relationship with many countries in Southeast Asia and East Asia; they held their relationship with China as especially important. The development of the ryusou was influenced by both the hanfu and the kimono, demonstrating a combination of Chinese and Japanese influences along with local originality.
Qizhuang, also known as Manfu and commonly inappropriately referred as Manchu clothing in English, is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people. Qizhuang in the broad sense refers to the clothing system of the Manchu people, which includes their whole system of attire used for different occasions with varying degrees of formality. The term qizhuang can also be used to refer to a type of informal dress worn by Manchu women known as chenyi, which is a one-piece long robe with no slits on either sides. In the Manchu tradition, the outerwear of both men and women includes a full-length robe with a jacket or a vest while short coats and trousers are worn as inner garments.
Lishui or shuijiao is a set of parallel diagonal, multicoloured sea-waves/line patterns. It originated in China where it was used by the Qing dynasty court prior to the mid-18th century. Lishui represents the deep sea under which the ocean surges and waves; it is therefore typically topped with "still water", which is represented by concentric semicircle patterns which runs horizontally. Lishui was used to decorate garments, including the bottom hem and cuffs of some of the court clothing of the Qing dynasty. It could be used to decorate as wedding dress items. It is also used to decorate Chinese opera costumes, typically on the bottom hem of the costumes. It was also adopted in some court clothing of the Nguyen dynasty in Vietnam under the influence of the Qing dynasty.
Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing refers to any form of Chinese auspicious ornaments, which are used to decorate various forms of Chinese textile and clothing, fashion accessories, and footwear in China since the ancient times. Chinese auspicious ornaments form part of Chinese culture and hold symbolic meanings. In ancient China, auspicious ornaments were often either embroidered or woven into textile and clothing. They are also used on religious and ritual clothing and in Xifu, Chinese opera costumes. Auspicious symbols and motifs continue to be used in present day China in industries, such as home textiles and clothing; they are also used in modern design packaging and interior design. Some of these Chinese auspicious ornaments were also culturally appropriated by European countries during the era of Chinoiserie, where they became decorative patterns on fashionable chinoiserie fashion and textiles.
Xifu, also known as Chinese opera costume in English, are the stage clothes and attire worn in Chinese opera, such as Kunqu, Cantonese opera, Beijing opera, Huangmei opera. Some of these costumes bear some resemblance to the Hanfu system but also show some differences in terms of clothing ornaments and decorations, as well as colour system, and in design and construction. In 2006, the techniques used to produce Beijing opera costumes were included in the national intangible cultural heritage list.
Traditional Chinese wedding dress is a collective term which refers to all the different forms and styles of traditional wedding attire worn by the Han Chinese when performing their marriage ceremony, including the traditional Chinese marriage. There are various forms of traditional Chinese wedding dress in the history of China. Since the Zhou dynasty, there have national laws and rules which regulated the different categories of clothing and personal accessories; these regulations have created various categories of clothing attire, including the traditional wedding attire of the Chinese people.
Fengguan xiapei is a type of traditional Chinese wedding set of attire categorized under Hanfu, which was worn by Han Chinese women in Ming and Qing dynasties. The fengguan xiapei attire was composed an upper and lower garment following the traditional Chinese yichang clothing system. It was typically composed of a red coloured mang ao, a type of a Chinese qun-skirt known as mangchu, the xiapei, and the fengguan. The fengguan xiapei was sometimes adorned with the yunjian. Following the wedding ceremony, married women were expected to wear the fengguan xiapei on formal occasions, however, Chinese trousers or leggings were worn beneath instead of the skirt.
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