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A mandarin square, also known as a rank badge, was a large embroidered badge sewn onto the surcoat of officials in Imperial China, Korea, in Vietnam, and the Ryukyu Kingdom. It was embroidered with detailed, colourful animal or bird insignia indicating the rank of the official wearing it. Despite its name, the mandarin square falls into two categories: round buzi and square buzi. Clothing decorated with buzi is known as bufu in China. In the 21st century, the use of buzi on hanfu was revived following the Hanfu movement.
Beizi, also known as beizi and chuozi, is an item worn in traditional Chinese attire common to both men and women; it is typically a large loose outer coat with loose and long sleeves. It was most popular during the Song dynasty, Ming dynasty, and from the early Qing to the Mid-Qing dynasty. The beizi originated in the Song dynasty. In the Ming dynasty, the beizi was referred as pifeng. When worn by men, it is sometimes referred as changyi, hechang, or dachang when it features large sleeves and knotted ties at the front as a garment closure.
Gwanbok is a Sino-Korean term derived from the terms guanfu and guanfu. The term gwanbok is a collective term which refers to historical official attire, which was bestowed by the government court, including Chinese courts of various dynasties. The guanfu (冠服) system was a court attire system in China which also formed part of the Hanfu system. This system was them spread to neighbouring countries and was adopted in Korea since ancient times in different periods through the ritual practice of bestowal of clothing. Acknowledgement through bestowed robes and crowns (冠服) from the Emperor of China, who held hegemony over East Asia, would give support to Korean Kings and successors, as being the authentic rulers of their country as well as confirmed the political status of the Korean kingdom in the rest of the Sinosphere. The gwanbok system in Korea was different for each kingdom and changed throughout different periods. For example, initially given by the Chinese court in ritual practice, successive gwanbok were more often than not locally manufactured in Korea with different colours and adopted into hanbok. The gwanbok, which was used as the uniform of court officials, formed part of the gwanbok system and was used like the suit is nowadays.
Ruqun is a set of attire in Hanfu which consists of a short jacket typically called ru worn under a long Chinese skirt called qun. However, when use as a general term, ruqun can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment and a wrap-around lower skirt, or yichang, in which yi means the "upper garment" and the chang means the "lower garment". In a broad sense, ruqun can include the shanqun and aoqun in its definition.
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Bijia is a long, sleeveless jacket of Mongol origins which has opened side slits. The bijia started to be worn in the Yuan dynasty when it was designed by Empress Chabi. The bijia eventually became one of the most typical form of women's clothing item in the Ming dynasty and in the Qing dynasty. It is also a type of hanfu which has been revived in present days.
Qizhuang, also known as Manfu and commonly referred as Manchu clothing in English, is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people. Qizhuang in the broad sense refers to the clothing system of the Manchu people, which includes their whole system of attire used for different occasions with varying degrees of formality. The term qizhuang can also be used to refer to a type of informal dress worn by Manchu women known as chenyi, which is a one-piece long robe with no slits on either sides. In the Manchu tradition, the outerwear of both men and women includes a full-length robe with a jacket or a vest while short coats and trousers are worn as inner garments.
Tanling ruqun, also known as Tan collar ruqun and U-collar ruqun, is a type of Hanfu which was developed under the influence of Hufu ; it is a form a kind of ruqun which typically consists of three parts, featuring a low-cut low-cut U-shaped collar upper inner garment with long sleeves, a U-shaped collar banbi upper outer garment with short sleeves, a long high-waisted skirt. It can also be adorned with a shawl, called pipo. It was a popular form of clothing attire in the Sui and Tang dynasty. In the 21st century, the Tanling ruqun re-appeared as a result of the Hanfu movement. The 21st century Tanling ruqun was developed by reproducing the original patterns of the historical tanling ruqun while being aligned with modern aesthetics.
Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing refers to any form of Chinese auspicious ornaments, which are used to decorate various forms of Chinese textile and clothing, fashion accessories, and footwear in China since the ancient times. Chinese auspicious ornaments form part of Chinese culture and hold symbolic meanings. In ancient China, auspicious ornaments were often either embroidered or woven into textile and clothing. They are also used on religious and ritual clothing and in Xifu, Chinese opera costumes. Auspicious symbols and motifs continue to be used in present-day China in industries, such as home textiles and clothing; they are also used in modern design packaging and interior design. Some of these Chinese auspicious ornaments were also adopted by European countries during the era of Chinoiserie, where they became decorative patterns on fashionable chinoiserie fashion and textiles.
Traditional Chinese wedding dress is a collective term which refers to all the different forms and styles of traditional wedding attire worn by the Han Chinese when performing their marriage ceremony, including the traditional Chinese marriage. There are various forms of traditional Chinese wedding dress in the history of China. Since the Zhou dynasty, there have national laws and rules which regulated the different categories of clothing and personal accessories; these regulations have created various categories of clothing attire, including the traditional wedding attire of the Chinese people.
Fengguan xiapei is a type of traditional Chinese wedding set of attire categorized under Hanfu, which was worn by Han Chinese women in Ming and Qing dynasties. The fengguan xiapei attire was composed an upper and lower garment following the traditional Chinese yichang clothing system. It was typically composed of a red coloured mang ao, a type of a Chinese qun-skirt known as mangchu, the xiapei, and the fengguan. The fengguan xiapei was sometimes adorned with the yunjian. Following the wedding ceremony, married women were expected to wear the fengguan xiapei on formal occasions, however, Chinese trousers or leggings were worn beneath instead of the skirt.
References
- 1 2 3 4 5 6 "Hapi(霞帔)". Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture.
- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Yang, Shaorong (2004). Traditional Chinese clothing : costumes, adornments & culture (1st ed.). San Francisco: Long River Press. pp. 32–33. ISBN 1-59265-019-8. OCLC 52775158.
- 1 2 3 4 Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011). The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Maryland: The Scarecrow Press. p. 319. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1. OCLC 694238143.
- 1 2 3 4 KESSLER, ADAM T. (2017-08-23). "The Last Days of the Song Dynasty: Evidence of the Flight of Song Officials to Southeast Asia before the Mongol Invasions". Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society. 28 (2): 315–337. doi:10.1017/s1356186317000384. ISSN 1356-1863. S2CID 164576372.
- ↑ "History of Peizhui - Most Exquisite Hanfu Ornament". www.newhanfu.com. 28 December 2020. Retrieved 2022-01-02.
- ↑ "Jeogui: The Most Formal Ceremonial Robe of the Joseon Queens". National Museum of Korea.
- 1 2 3 4 5 Xun Zhou; Chunming Gao (1987). 5000 years of Chinese costumes. San Francisco, CA: China Books & Periodicals. pp. 150, 195. ISBN 0-8351-1822-3. OCLC 19814728.
- 1 2 "【金银器】帔坠_收藏文化_银元收藏网". www.mugwum.com. Retrieved 2022-01-02.
- 1 2 3 Tibberts, Jennifer (2021-01-01). "Investigating How Qipao and Hanfu Dresses are Representative of China". Senior Honors Theses: 1–52.
- ↑ Vollmer, John E. (2007). Dressed to rule : 18th century court attire in the Mactaggart Art Collection. Mactaggart Art Collection. Edmonton: University of Alberta Press. p. 46. ISBN 978-1-55195-214-7. OCLC 166687933.
- ↑ "Jeokgwan". Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture.
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 Portrait of Empress Dowager Du wearing scarf-like xiapei over her shoulders; a peizhui (ornament) is hanging at the front end, Song dynasty. | |
 Portrait of Mrs Chen wearing the waistcoat-like xiapei, Qing dynasty |
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