Bezel (jewellery)

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Signet ring with engraved bezel Ring fish MNMA Cl2886.jpg
Signet ring with engraved bezel
Ring with an engraved gem in a bezel setting Fig 262 bezel.jpg
Ring with an engraved gem in a bezel setting

A bezel is a wider and usually thicker section of the hoop of a ring, which may contain a gem or a flat surface (usually with an engraved design, as in a signet ring). [1] Rings are normally worn to display bezels on the upper or outer side of the finger. In gem-cutting the term bezel is used for those sloping facets (also called sides or faces) of a cut stone that surround the flat table face, [2] which is the large, horizontal facet on the top. [3]

Contents

More broadly, bezels are found on tools and appliances. The sloping face of a chisel is known as a bezel. [2] In vehicles, it is the part of the bodywork that surrounds a headlight or turn signal. [4] On a cell phone or tablet, it is the back surface that frames the LCD screen. [5]

The word may also refer to a bezel setting for a stone, which is a general term for a setting holding the stone in place with a raised metal rim for the stone, the rim's lip encircling and overlapping the edges of the stone, thus holding it in place. [6] Modern bezel settings typically use a band of metal containing a groove and a flange (i.e. projecting lip) to hold a watch crystal or gemstone in its setting. This was the earliest method of setting gemstones into jewelry. In historic examples, such rings were often made by leaving a hole or slot in the ring with a thin lip which was bent over once the stone was inserted, holding it in place.

An extension of the term bezel setting can refer to a rotatable rim on a clock or watch used to indicate certain data such as elapsed time. [7] [8]

Other types of bezel settings, less used in modern jewelry, are swivel bezels where the bezel, perhaps just formed of a stone with a metal rod through it, can rotate, and box bezels, where a "box" or cage forms the bezel, often sitting on the main ring hoop, and perhaps open at the top where there is a stone. [9]

Etymology

The word bezel, with an earliest attribution from 1605 to 1615, [4] derives from the Old French *besel (13c.; Modern French biseau), cognate with Spanish and Portuguese bisel; of uncertain origin, perhaps literally "a stone with two angles," from Vulgar Latin *bis-alus, from bis- "twice" (from PIE root *dwo- "two") + ala "wing, side" (see alar ). [10] Bezel is akin to French biseau, meaning bevel or chamfer. [4]

The noun meaning "slope of the edge of a cutting tool," and also "groove by which a stone is held in its setting" was from the 1610s. The verb meaning "grind (a tool) down to an edge" is from 1670s. [10]

The noun meaning "oblique face of a gem" is from c. 1840. [10]

Bezel settings

Diamond held in its setting with a bezel Diamond Bezel Set from Jens Hansen.jpg
Diamond held in its setting with a bezel
Video of a diving watch having an adjustable bezel to mark the start time of a dive

In making a typical modern bezel setting, the bezel is shaped into the size and shape of the gem and then soldered into place on the metal of the jewelry. The prepared stone is then placed into the bezel and the metal is pressed down over the edges of stone, locking it into place.

A cabochon stone, a gemstone that is not faceted, usually relies on the shallow angle cut into the side of the stone, which helps the metal to stay in place. With a clear, faceted stone, such as a diamond, a shallow groove is cut into the bezel itself. The girdle, or widest part of the gemstone, is placed in the bezel, which is then pushed down over the girdle. The pressure of the bezel over the edge keeps the stone in place.

Bezel settings for diamonds are also called rub-over settings; they have a diamond completely surrounded by a precious metal band which fastens the diamond securely into place. Bezel settings use a type of elevated collar which wraps the rim of the diamond in a complete metal edging. This type of diamond ring setting is the most secure fastener for the stones. The bezel setting also protects the diamond better than other types of settings, such as the prong setting. A flush setting for diamond rings is a variation on the rub-over or bezel setting. In the flush setting, the stone is placed into an opening and affixed at the bottom of the stone. The top of the diamond is extended above the base.

Bezel setting advantages

One advantage of the bezel setting, as compared to the prong setting, is that the diamond is better protected from accidental rubbing or blows, and is less likely to allow the diamond to scratch whatever it may come into contact with. The bezel setting is also more secure, so the diamond is less likely to be dislodged.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gemstone</span> Piece of mineral crystal used to make jewelry

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jewellery</span> Form of personal adornment

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Topaz</span> Silicate mineral

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Diamond cutting is the practice of shaping a diamond from a rough stone into a faceted gem. Cutting diamonds requires specialized knowledge, tools, equipment, and techniques because of its extreme difficulty.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cabochon</span> Gemstone that has been shaped and polished

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Facet</span> Flat surface of a gem, crystal, etc.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cufflink</span> Items of jewelry

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Diamond cut</span> Type of cut used when shaping a diamond

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A ring is a round band, usually made of metal, worn as ornamental jewelry. The term "ring" by itself denotes jewellery worn on the finger; when worn as an ornament elsewhere, the body part is specified within the term, e.g., earrings, neck rings, arm rings, and toe rings. Rings fit snugly around or in the part of the body they ornament, so bands worn loosely, like a bracelet, are not rings. Rings may be made of almost any hard material: wood, bone, stone, metal, glass, gemstone or plastic. They may be set with gemstones or with other types of stone or glass.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Navaratna</span> Group of nine gems

Navaratna is a Sanskrit compound word meaning "nine gems" or "ratnas". Jewellery created in this style has important cultural significance in many southern, and south-eastern Asian cultures as a symbol of wealth, and status, and is claimed to yield talismanic benefits towards health and well-being. The setting of the stones is believed to hold mystical powers tied to the astrology and mythology of Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism. The historic origin of the navaratna is tied to the astrological concept of "Navagrahas", or "nine celestial gods" (planets).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tension ring</span>

A tension ring is a type of finger ring that holds a gemstone in place by pressure rather than prongs, a bezel or other mounting. The metal setting is actually spring-loaded to exert pressure onto the gemstone, and tiny etchings or grooves in the metal create a shelf that supports the gemstone's edges. The gemstone appears to be suspended in the air with nothing holding it in place.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stonesetting</span>

Stonesetting is the art of securely setting or attaching gemstones into jewelry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Prong setting</span>

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A faceting machine is broadly defined as any device that allows the user to place and polish facets onto a mineral specimen. Machines can range in sophistication from primitive jamb-peg machines to highly refined, and highly expensive, commercially available machines. A major division among machines is found between those that facet diamonds and those that do not. Specialized equipment is required for diamond faceting, and faceting as an occupation rarely bridges the gap between diamond and non-diamond workmanship. A second division can be made between industrial faceting and custom/hobby faceting. The vast majority of jewelry-store gemstones are faceted either abroad in factories or entirely by machines. Custom jewelry is still commonly made of custom metalwork and mass-produced gemstones, but unusual cuts or particularly valuable gemstone material will likely be faceted on a personal faceting machine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Diamond (gemstone)</span> Gemstone

Diamond is one of the best-known and most sought-after gemstones. They have been used as decorative items since ancient times.

Dopping cement, dopping wax, or faceting wax is a thermal adhesive used by gem cutters to secure ("dop") a gemstone to a wooden or metal holder for grinding and lapping. Setters cement is a similar material used to secure a gemstone while setting or polishing.

References

Citations

  1. McConnell, 104.
  2. 1 2 OED, "Bezel" noun, 1 and 2; "In lapidary usage, the oblique sides or faces of a cut gem", Campbell.
  3. "Gemstone Facets: Terminology and Functions". International Gem Society. Retrieved 29 June 2022.
  4. 1 2 3 "Definition of bezel | Dictionary.com". www.dictionary.com. Dictionary.com, LLC. 2022. Retrieved 29 June 2022.
  5. Strange, Adario (July 11, 2013). "LG intros world's thinnest smartphone screen" Archived 2013-08-12 at the Wayback Machine . DVICE.
  6. "A bezel setting is a metal rim that holds the gem in a finger ring. The term is used in a transferred sense by horologists to denote the ring that secures the glass in a watch or clock, and by metal specialists to describe the ring inside the lid of silver and pewter objects", Campbell.
  7. Oxford English Dictionary (all editions to 2013), "Bezel", n. 3. However the OED definition misses the primary sense given in its own citations, such as: "1616 J. Bullokar Eng. Expositor, Bezill, the broad part of a ring, in which the stone or signet is set.", only defining it as "The groove and projecting flange or lip by which the crystal of a watch or the stone of a jewel is retained in its setting." For examples of "bezel" referring to flat, thick parts of rings with no gems, flanges or lips see the over 2,000 uses of the word (in records with images) in the British Museum collection database Archived 2015-09-24 at the Wayback Machine .
  8. Webster's New World College Dictionary (2005)
  9. Examples in the British Museum, with descriptions: Gold ring with movable circular box-bezel decorated with a griffin Archived 2015-10-18 at the Wayback Machine (also swivels); box bezel, no stone Archived 2018-11-19 at the Wayback Machine ; The "Ashburnham Ring", with swivel bezel Archived 2018-11-19 at the Wayback Machine .
  10. 1 2 3 Harper, Douglas (2022). "bezel | Etymology, origin and meaning of bezel by etymonline". www.etymonline.com. Pennsylvania, US. Retrieved 30 June 2022.

Sources