Hill passes of the Lake District were originally used by people in one valley travelling to another nearby without having to go many miles around a steep ridge of intervening hills. Historically, in the Lake District of northwest England, travel on foot or by pony was difficult because of the region's steep-sided valleys so tracks across the ridges were created taking the easiest route over passes – often, but not always, via a col. Since Roman times long-distance travel had tended to be along ridges. From the 19th century these passes and ridge routes were brought back into use when recreational hill walking become popular. Forty hill passes within the Lake District National Park are listed here, using criteria for selecting the major routes.
The Lake District National Park was created in 1951 covering an area of over 2,000 square kilometres (770sqmi) and, although its population is only 42,000, over 10 million visitors arrive each year, mostly attracted by the lakes and fells.[1]
Geology
About 500 million years ago[1] in the late Cambrian and early Ordivician periods,[2] the region was situated where the Iapetus ocean floor was being subducted under the Avalonia plate.[3] Sedimentary material became metamorphosed to the Skiddaw slates found in the north and west.[4] For a relatively short time of 5 million years Ordovician[5] volcanoes ejected the Borrowdale volcanic rocks – firstly lavas (mostly andesite}[6] and later pyroclastic rocks[7] found in the more central part of the region. The ejection of rock was extreme by world standards and it produced deposits at least 6,000 metres (20,000ft) deep.[8] When the Baltica-Avalonia and Laurentia continents collided some 420 million years ago in the Caledonian orogeny there was folding of the slate and fracturing (faulting) of the more brittle volcanic rock.[3][9] The whole region was then uplifted again by a batholith of granite mainly in the Carboniferous period although the granite remains largely below the surface.[10][11] The high ground became gradually eroded and to the south the land subsided.[1][12] In the south 8,000 metres (26,000ft) of Windermere Supergroup sediment formed in the Silurian period with Coniston Limestone towards its base.[13] Overall cover of limestone eroded away.
In the north, slaty rocks now form a smooth topography with sharp ridges although the hills can still be quite high – 931 metres (3,054ft) in the case of Skiddaw. Centrally the pyroclastic tuff rocks [1] give a knobbly terrain such as that around Scafell Pike, 978 metres (3,209ft), England's highest mountain.[14][15] To the south is a mostly less hilly area.[1]
From about 2 million years ago glacial erosion then greatly modified the landscape.[1][16] Glaciers formed preferentially at existing streams which had developed at the many rock faults produced by crushing during the continental collision. The terrain was ground away leaving characteristically steep-sided glacial valleys which became ribbon lakes.[1] On the Rossett Pass (see below) Rossett Gill is an example of a geological fault and the glacier that descended from it created the Mickleden and Great Langdale valleys below.[17] Taken as a whole the region is characterised by mountain ridges splaying out from a central core. The intervening valleys have been made by glaciers flowing outward along the lines of the previous streams draining the dome of the Lake District.[1]
Human history
Historically the region was suitable for sheep hill farming and from medieval (or possibly Roman) times there was a substantial mining industry for rocks and minerals.[1] The Romans had built a high-level military road north–south right through the region on its eastern edge at High Street and another road through the Hardknott and Wrynose passes for travel between forts at Ravenglass and Ambleside.[18] Travelling between valleys was difficult on foot or by pony because of the steep passes across the mountainous ridges. With no roads suitable for wheeled traffic until the late 18th century, for long-distance transport of goods long trains of horses were used with ridge routes being preferred although Esk Hause and Stake Pass (see below) are thought to have been used in this way. However, for travel within the region, routes were best kept as low as possible consistent with avoiding excessive detours so summits and ridges were to be avoided as far as possible.[19]
In the late 18th century the region started to become popular with travellers and the "Lake Poets" began seeing the lakes and mountains as beautiful rather than horrifying.[20] In Victorian times, encouraged by the arrival of the Kendal and Windermere Railway,[1] a tourist trade developed. In the mid twentieth century Alfred Wainwright inadvertently encouraged further recreational use with his series of books A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells which described detailed routes to the major summits. His considerable knowledge of the district allowed him to make use of the ancient tracks although his focus was not on the ridge passes themselves.[21]
Hill passes
The passes are indicated in the following maps that are identical except for the annotation included. Both show the regions defined by Wainwright for his books. The first map shows the passes with their sequential numbers in the table. It also marks major lakes, valleys (dales) and a few important mountains. The second map shows the passes with their names (or a col on the route) and a few major towns. The colouring of the routes is merely to separate different adjacent ones.
Maps of Lake District National Park showing hill passes
Showing pass numbers, lakes, valleys and mountains
Showing names of passes and towns
Table of Lake District hill passes, alphabetically within region
↑ The reference provides first the number of the region – the table is initially in order of the region for which the pass is most relevant – "region" being the volume number of the book in Wainwright's series Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells.[vol 1][vol 2][vol 3][vol 4][vol 5][vol 6][vol 7] Secondly the "route" – to help locate the routes on the maps in this article they have been given a sequence number. Finally the route's colour on the maps has been noted.
↑ Following the reference is the name of the pass or of some named point on the route – sorting the table places it in alphabetical order of name.
↑ Elevation (metres and feet) and OS grid reference of top of pass. – in a few instances the point named is some other waypoint (not the top) of the pass.
1 2 The "start and "end" locations of a pass are in arbitrary order and the valleys are those between which the pass travels. The actual places named are merely some identifiable low level locations on either side of the high point. No attempt is made to imply any length for the pass – the route via the col of the pass may be much shorter. The elevations of the terminating locations are of little relevance and no information is given about the elevation gained in crossing a pass.
360° panorama from Striding Edge, leading up to Helvellyn
Selection criteria
The hill passes listed are routes within the Lake District National Park between two different valleys where a pathway is marked on the Ordnance Survey 1:50000 or 1:25000 map. Passes to be considered may be listed as "pass" or "hause" in the Ordnance Survey 1:50000 gazetteer provided also that a route crossing the ridge is marked on the map.[74] Also included are routes described as passes in Wainwright's Guides and in other authoritative sources provided still that they go between different valleys. To be listed a pass does not necessarily have a name (though most do have names) nor does it need to cross a col (but nearly all do traverse cols). A few have been excluded when the gain in elevation seems rather small (less than about 100 metres (330ft) – this particularly applies with paved roads.
Notes
↑ The summit of High Tove is scarcely higher than the ridge it is on and the route is the driest way over the ridge.[36]
↑ Wainwright discusses three passes running roughly parallel – via Megs Gill, Hunting Style and Red Bank.[38]
1 2 The Wasdale to Langdale route reaches the Sty Head Pass but does not descend north to Borrowdale but rather continues southeast to a high point at a col often wrongly called "Esk Hause" at NY234083 with an elevation 722 metres (2,369ft) (near a stone shelter). Rossett Pass is then crossed. The route was used for taking smuggled goods from Ravenglass.[46]
↑ A bridleway takes a similar route following the road for a short distance.
1 2 3 From Sty Head, four valleys may be reached: (1) descent west via Styhead Pass to Wasdale, (2) descent northeast via Styhead Pass to Borrowdale, (3&4) ascent southeast to the col north of Esk Hause thence (3) up southwest over Esk Hause to Eskdale or (4) down southeast via Rossett Pass to Great Langdale.
↑ Wainwright frequently mentions this pass (he himself gave it the name).[62] Just below the pass there used to be a cobalt mine and the mine road came from Braithwaite.[63]
↑ Styhead Tarn is at 440 metres (1,440ft) and a short ascent reaches Sty Head
↑ Only the Windy Gap to Styhead Tarn section is called Aaron Slack (slack means scree).[65]
↑ A toll road ran from Grange to near Honister Hause but it is now a bridleway.
↑ Until about 1850 Moses Trod was used to transport slate from high-level quarries at Honister over to Wasdale. Although the route is also called the "Moses Sledgate" (gate is a path), it seems packhorses were used rather than sledges.[72]
Related Research Articles
Bowfell is a pyramid-shaped mountain lying at the heart of the English Lake District, in the Southern Fells area. It is the sixth-highest mountain in the Lake District and one of the most popular of the Lake District fells for walkers. It is listed in Alfred Wainwright's 'best half dozen' Lake District fells.
Great End is the most northerly mountain in the Scafell chain, in the English Lake District. From the south it is simply a lump continuing this chain. From the north, however, it appears as an immense mountain, with an imposing north face rising above Sprinkling Tarn (lake). This is a popular location for wild camping, and the north face attracts many climbers.
Crinkle Crags is a fell in the English Lake District in the county of Cumbria. It forms part of two major rings of mountains, surrounding the valleys of Great Langdale and Upper Eskdale. The name reflects the fell's physical appearance as its summit ridge is a series of five rises and depressions (crinkles) that are very distinctive from the valley floor. In Old English, cringol means twisted or wrinkled.
Grasmoor is a mountain in the north-western part of the Lake District, northern England. It is the highest peak in a group of hills between the villages of Lorton, Braithwaite and Buttermere, and overlooks Crummock Water.
Esk Pike is a fell in the English Lake District, one of the cirque of hills forming the head of Eskdale.
Crag Hill is a mountain in the North Western part of the English Lake District. It was formerly known as Eel Crag; however, the Ordnance Survey now marks Eel Crag as referring to the northern crags of the fell. It is not to be confused with another Crag Hill lying on the border of North Yorkshire.
Pike o' Blisco, or Pike of Blisco, is a mountain in the Lake District in Cumbria, England. Located between the valleys of Great Langdale and Little Langdale, its relative isolation from neighbouring fells together with slopes falling away immediately from the summit in all directions mean it has excellent views: the view of the Langdale Pikes across Great Langdale is particularly arresting.
Base Brown is a fell in England's Lake District, near the head of the Borrowdale Valley. It forms one side of the Seathwaite Valley, and on the western side it is flanked by the hanging valley of Gillercomb.
Seathwaite Fell is an area of the Lake District in Cumbria, England. It stands above the hamlet of the same name at the head of Borrowdale.
Helm Crag is a fell in the English Lake District situated in the Central Fells to the north of Grasmere. Despite its low height it sits prominently at the end of a ridge, easily seen from the village. This, combined with the distinctive summit rocks which provide the alternative name 'The Lion and the Lamb', makes it one of the most recognised hills in the District.
Grisedale Pike is a fell in the Lake District, Cumbria, England, situated 4+1⁄2 miles west of the town of Keswick in the north-western sector of the national park. At a height of 791 metres it is the 40th-highest Wainwright in the Lake District; it also qualifies as a Hewitt, Marilyn and Nuttall. Grisedale Pike presents a striking appearance when viewed from the east, particularly from the vicinity of Keswick. It possesses two subsidiary summits: one unnamed ; the other Hobcarton End.
Outerside is a fell in the Lake District in Cumbria, England. It is located 6 kilometres west of Keswick in the north western part of the national park and is a smaller member of the Coledale group of fells with a height of 568 metres. The fell is part of a ridge on the southern side of Coledale which descends from the higher fell of Scar Crags and continues over the neighbouring smaller fell of Barrow before reaching the valley at the village of Braithwaite.
Stickle Pike is an outlying fell located in the southern Lake District near the small town of Broughton-in-Furness, with the summit situated between the lower Duddon Valley and the quiet smaller valley of Dunnerdale. Despite its low altitude the sharp, conical summit is prominent in views from the Broughton and high Furness areas. As with many of the Dunnerdale and Coniston fells, there are reminders of the area's former mining past in the form of many spoil heaps, disused levels and shafts. The fell is also notable for its wide-ranging views despite its low altitude, especially to the Scafells to the north and the sands of the Duddon Estuary to the south. A "stickle" is a hill with a prominent rocky top.
Glaramara is a fell in the English Lake District in Cumbria. It is a substantial fell that is part of a long ridge that stretches for over six kilometres from Stonethwaite in Borrowdale up to the important mountain pass of Esk Hause. The summit of Glaramara at 783 metres (2,569 ft) is the central point of this ridge, which separates the valleys of Langstrath and Grains Gill. However, the ridge has two additional fells, numerous subsidiary tops and several small tarns making its traverse an appealing and challenging walk.
Hopegill Head is a fell in the English Lake District in Cumbria. It is located nine kilometres west of the town of Keswick and is well seen from the B5292 road which crosses the Whinlatter Pass.
Allen Crags is a fell in the English Lake District, it lies in a group of very popular hills and is regarded as part of the Scafell group of fells. It is a hill that is frequently traversed by walkers along its ridge but is seldom climbed as the sole objective.
Rossett Pike is a fell in the English Lake District. It is located at the head of Mickleden, one of two tributary valleys of Great Langdale.
The Central Fells are a part of the Cumbrian Mountains in the Lake District of England. Reaching their highest point at High Raise, they occupy a broad area to the east of Borrowdale. The Central Fells are generally lower than the surrounding hills, the Lake District's dome-like structure having a slight dip in the middle. The range extends from the boggy ridge between Derwentwater and Thirlmere in the north, to the rock peaks of the Langdale Pikes in the south.
The Southern Fells are a part of the Cumbrian Mountains in the Lake District of England. Including Scafell Pike, the highest peak in England, they occupy a broad area to the south of Great Langdale, Borrowdale and Wasdale. High and rocky towards the centre of the Lake District, the Southern Fells progressively take on a moorland character toward the south-west. In the south-east are the well-known Furness Fells, their heavily quarried flanks rising above Coniston Water.
↑ McCloy, Andrew; Midgley, Andrew (2008). "Hardknott Fort". Discovering Roman Britain. New Holland Publishers. pp.132–139. ISBN9781847731289. Archived from the original on 21 August 2016.
↑ "Roads". Industrial History of Cumbria. Cumbria Industrial History Society. Archived from the original on 25 May 2016.
↑ "1:50 000 Scale Gazetteer". www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk. Ordnance Survey. Archived from the original on 17 April 2016. Retrieved 11 May 2016. This product is still available to download although it has been officially "withdrawn".
Volumes in Wainwright's Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells
The following individual volumes are part of a boxed set:
Wainwright, Alfred (2008). The Complete Pictorial Guides: A Reader's Edition (Pictorial Guide Lakeland Fells). Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-07112-2953-2.
↑ Wainwright, Alfred (2009). Book One, The Eastern Fells. Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-2943-3.(same content as first 1955 edition)
↑ Wainwright, Alfred (2009). Book Two, The Far Eastern Fells. Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-2944-0.(same content as first 1957 edition)
↑ Wainwright, Alfred (2009). Book Three, The Central Fells. Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-2945-7.(same content as first 1958 edition)
↑ Wainwright, Alfred (2009). Book Four, The Southern Fells. Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-2946-4.(same content as first 1960 edition)
↑ Wainwright, Alfred (2009). Book Five, The Northern Fells. Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-2947-1.(same content as first 1962 edition)
↑ Wainwright, Alfred (2009). Book Six, The North Western. Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-2948-8.(same content as first 1964 edition)
↑ Wainwright, Alfred (2009). Book Seven, The Western Fells. Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-2949-5.(same content as first 1966 edition)
Wainwright, Alfred (2009). The Outlying Fells of Lakeland. Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-2952-5.(same content as first 1968 edition)
Other works cited
Smith, Alan (2010). Landscapes of Cumbria, No. 4: Lakeland rocks: an introductory guide. Rigg Side Publications. ISBN978-0-9544679-3-7.
Turnbull, Ronald (2011). Granite and grit: a walker's guide to the geology of British mountains. London: Frances Lincoln. ISBN978-0-7112-3180-1.
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