Milanese bobbin lace

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Fragment of Milanese bobbin lace, dating from the 17th century Fragment MET DP16235 88.2.17.jpg
Fragment of Milanese bobbin lace, dating from the 17th century
Milano, bobina di pizzo per balza da camice, in punto di milano, 1650-1700 ca. 02 Milano, bobina di pizzo per balza da camice, in punto di milano, 1650-1700 ca. 02.jpg
Milano, bobina di pizzo per balza da camice, in punto di milano, 1650-1700 ca. 02

Milanese bobbin lace is a textile used as a fashion accessory or a decorative trim, first becoming popular in the 17th and 18th centuries in Milan. Lacemaking was an important economic activity in Northern Italy, besides touching on social status matters as well as being a culturally significant art form. [1] The earliest versions of the lace consisted of the tape (or braid) mostly filling the space. [2] Typical characteristics of Milanese bobbin lace are scrolls made with curving clothwork tapes and floral motifs, and sometimes also consisting of human or animal figures. [3] Sometimes needle lace techniques were combined with the bobbin lace pieces to create the final product. [1]

The lace eventually was made in parts, and joined by bridges or filled in with mesh grounds between existing pattern motifs. [4] Novel ornamental features such as small beads affixed for eyes are sometimes found, as well as folded tallies and wheatears that add dimension to figures or edges. [5]

Use of the lace in Ecclesiastical settings such as altar cloths and vestments [6] likely represented Church support of the regional lacemaking. [4] Examples of chalice cloths display the lace as edging, for example. [7] Additionally, larger flounces might relay Biblical tales such as the example of the Old Testament story of Joseph, with many human, animal, and even astronomical motifs. [8] Fashion uses, such as collars and cuffs, have also been documented. [9] [10]

Commissions of lace by wealthy patrons for weddings or other notable occasions might include family coat-of-arms displayed in the lace. [11]

After the early Milanese laces from Milan developed, using less refined linen threads, a tape or braid style lace also arose in Flanders in the 17th century. The Flemish lace had much similarity to the Italian version, but typically worked with finer flax thread. It is sometimes difficult to distinguish the styles, and today they are considered to be under the Milanese name in a generic way. [12]

Lacemaking has continued through the centuries, adapting to later fashion styles and other influences. [13] The original styles are said to have influenced the tape laces of eastern European styles such as Russian, Hungarian, and Slovak laces. [14] Milanese lace continues to be made today with nods to historical tapes and other motifs but with new artistic formats such as the work of Louise Colgan [15] and colorways reminiscent of watercolors by Sandi Woods. Although there may be controversy over the use of color, patterns relying on thread color are available. [16] Instructional pattern books make the recreation of the traditional laces possible for lacemakers today, as well as expanding the range into contemporary styles. [17] [18] Other textile artists also expand the fiber choices and colors with larger patterns and designs. [19]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lace</span> Openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand

Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted or crocheted lace. Other laces such as these are considered as a category of their specific craft. Knitted lace, therefore, is an example of knitting. This article considers both needle lace and bobbin lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bobbin lace</span> Handmade lace

Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bobbin</span> Spool or cylinder around which thread, line or wire is coiled.

A bobbin or spool is a spindle or cylinder, with or without flanges, on which yarn, thread, wire, tape or film is wound. Bobbins are typically found in industrial textile machinery, as well as in sewing machines, fishing reels, tape measures, film rolls, cassette tapes, within electronic and electrical equipment, and for various other applications.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Guipure</span> Type of bobbin lace in which motifs are connected by bars or plaits

Guipure lace is a type of bobbin lace. It connects the motifs with bars or plaits rather than net or mesh.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tønder lace</span> Type of bobbin lace from Denmark

Tønder lace is a point-ground type of handmade bobbin lace identified with the Tønder region of Denmark since about 1850, although lace of many types has been made there since as early as 1650. The term is also used more broadly, to refer to any bobbin lace made in Denmark.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Freehand lace</span> Bobbin lace worked without a pricking

Freehand lace is bobbin lace worked directly on the fabric of the lace pillow without using a pricked pattern. Very few pins are needed

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Passementerie</span> Elaborate braids and other trimmings

Passementerie or passementarie is the art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings of applied braid, gold or silver cord, embroidery, colored silk, or beads for clothing or furnishings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brussels lace</span> Type of bobbin lace from Brussels

Brussels lace is a type of pillow lace that originated in and around Brussels. The term "Brussels lace" has been broadly used for any lace from Brussels; however, strictly interpreted, the term refers to bobbin lace, in which the pattern is made first, and the ground, or réseau added, also using bobbin lace. Brussels lace is not to be confused with Brussels point, which is a type of needle lace, though sometimes also called "Brussels lace".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bucks point lace</span> Type of bobbin lace from South East England

Bucks point is a bobbin lace from the South East of England. "Bucks" is short for Buckinghamshire, which was the main centre of production. The lace was also made in the nearby counties of Bedfordshire and Northamptonshire. Bucks point is very similar to the French Lille lace, and thus is often called English Lille. It is also similar to Mechlin lace and Chantilly lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Irish lace</span>

Irish lace has always been an important part of the Irish needlework tradition. Both needlepoint and bobbin laces were made in Ireland before the middle of the eighteenth century, but never, apparently, on a commercial scale. It was promoted by Irish aristocrats such as Lady Arabella Denny, the famous philanthropist, who used social and political connections to support the new industry and promote the sale of Irish lace abroad. Lady Denny, working in connection with the Dublin Society, introduced lace-making into the Dublin workhouses, especially among the children there. It is thought that it was an early form of Crochet, imitating the appearance of Venetian Gros Point lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mundillo</span> Handmade bobbin lace, tradition and cultural heritage of Puerto Rico and Panama

Mundillo is a craft of handmade bobbin lace that is cultivated and honored on the island of Puerto Rico and Panama. The term 'mundillo' means 'little world', referring to the cylindrical pillow on which the lace maker ('Mundillista') weaves intricate designs. The decorative lace is created using wooden bobbins about the diameter of a pencil, which are wound with thread that is twisted and crossed to form a pattern. Depending on the pattern, as few as two dozen or as many as several hundred bobbins may be used.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Battenberg lace</span> Type of American tape lace

Battenberg lace is a type of tape lace. It is of American origin, designed and first made by Sara Hadley of New York. This American lace was named either in honor of the wedding of Princess Beatrice, Queen Victoria's youngest daughter, to Prince Henry of Battenberg, or from the widowed Princess Beatrice. It is made using bobbins and needles, or just needles alone.The original Battenberg lace used just one stitich: buttonhole picot. Other stitches that were later used include flat wheel and rings or "buttons).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lacemaking in Croatia</span> Lacemaking tradition and intangible cultural heritage of Croatia

Lacemaking in Croatia is a tradition dating back to the Renaissance when lacemaking began spreading throughout the Mediterranean and continental Europe. Throughout the years, Croatian lace has become notable for its unique patterns and designs. In 2009, UNESCO recognised lacemaking in Croatia as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bedfordshire lace</span> Type of bobbin lace made in the English Midlands

Bedfordshire lace is a style of bobbin lace originating from Bedfordshire in the 19th century, and made in the English Midlands lacemaking area. It was worked as a continuous width on a bolster pillow. It is a guipure style of lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lace machine</span> Powered equipment for producing imitations of hand-made lace

Lace machines took over the commercial manufacture of lace during the nineteenth century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Part lace</span> Lace formed from knotted bobbin motifs

Part lace or sectional lace is a way of making bobbin lace. It characterises various styles, such as Honiton lace or Brussels lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bobbin tape lace</span> Part lace of bobbin-lace tapes

Bobbin tape lace is bobbin lace where the design is formed of one or more tapes curved so they make an attractive pattern. The tapes are made at the same time as the rest of the lace, and are joined to each other, or themselves, using a crochet hook.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Leavers machine</span> Lacemaking machine invented by John Levers

The Leavers machine is a lacemaking machine that John Levers adapted from Heathcoat's Old Loughborough machine. It was made in Nottingham in 1813. The name of the machine was the Leavers machine. The original machine made net but it was discovered that the Jacquard apparatus could be adapted to it. From 1841 lace complete with pattern, net and outline could be made on the Leavers machine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ipswich lace</span> Bobbin lace from Ipswich, Massachusetts

Ipswich lace is a historical fashion accessory, the only known American hand-made bobbin lace to be commercially produced. Centered in the coastal town of Ipswich, Massachusetts north of Boston, a community of lacemaking arose in the 18th century. Puritan settlers to the area likely made and wore lace as early as 1634, because Sumptuary laws from the early colonial records indicate this activity. Earliest known records of the commercial production indicate that lace produced by local women was used to barter for goods in the 1760s, as denoted by ledger account books belonging to local merchants. These laces were sold in the region from Boston to Maine.


Cogne lace is a handmade bobbin lace that is made in Cogne, in the Aosta Valley in Italy. It takes the form of strips of lace, due to the manner in which it is made on a drum.

References

  1. 1 2 Hohti, Paula (2022). ""Monstrous Ruffs" and Elegant Trimmings: Lace and Lacemaking in Early Modern Italy". In Cormack, Emma; Majer, Michele (eds.). Threads of Power : Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen (1 ed.). New York: Bard Graduate Center. pp. 70–73. ISBN   9780300263497.
  2. ↑ Corbet, Barbara (2017). Mailänder Spitze gestern und heute = Milanese lace : yesterday and today. Inh. Dagmar Jenkel e.K. Barbara Fay Verlag und Versandbuchhandlung. Gammelby. p. 8. ISBN   978-3-925184-16-1. OCLC   989775056.
  3. ↑ Earnshaw, Pat (1982). A Dictionary of Lace. Princes Risborough, Aylesbury, Bucks, UK: Shire Publications. p. 111. ISBN   9780852636022.
  4. 1 2 Levey, Santina M. (1983). Lace : A History. [London]. p. 34. ISBN   978-0901286154.
  5. ↑ Kurella, Elizabeth M. (1998). Guide to Lace and Linens. Dubuque, Iowa: Antique Trader Books. p. 173. ISBN   978-0930625894.
  6. ↑ Museum, Victoria and Albert. "Alb Apparel | V&A Explore The Collections". Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections.
  7. ↑ "Chalice Veil". Cleveland Museum of Art. 31 October 2018.
  8. ↑ "Bobbin Lace Flounce: Punto di Milano". Cleveland Museum of Art. 30 October 2018.
  9. ↑ Anonymous (2018-10-31). "Bobbin Lace Collar". Cleveland Museum of Art. Retrieved 2023-03-17.
  10. ↑ Anonymous (2018-10-31). "Bobbin Lace Cuff". Cleveland Museum of Art. Retrieved 2023-03-17.
  11. ↑ Bullock, Alice-May (1981). Lace and Lace Making. New York, N.Y.: Larousse. p. 135. ISBN   0883322617.
  12. ↑ Corbet, Barbara (2017). Mailänder Spitze gestern und heute = Milanese lace : yesterday and today. Inh. Dagmar Jenkel e.K. Barbara Fay Verlag und Versandbuchhandlung. Gammelby. pp. 8–10. ISBN   978-3-925184-16-1. OCLC   989775056.
  13. ↑ Earnshaw, Pat (1980). The Identification of Lace. Aylesbury, Eng.: Shire Publications. ISBN   9780852634844.
  14. ↑ Kurella, Elizabeth M. (2006). Guide to Lace and Linens. Dubuque, Iowa: Antique Trader Books. p. 172. ISBN   0930625897.
  15. ↑ Colgan, Louise. "Colgan Lace Studio". Colgan Lace Studio.
  16. ↑ Read, Patricia (1994). New braid and designs in Milanese lace. Internet Archive. London : B.T. Batsford. pp. 110–130. ISBN   978-0-7134-7192-2.
  17. ↑ Read, Patricia (2004). 50 Milanese lace patterns. London: Batsford. ISBN   978-0713489163.
  18. ↑ Corbet, Barbara (2017). Mailänder Spitze Gestern und Heute = Milanese lace : Yesterday and Today. Gammelby. pp. 177–234. ISBN   978-3925184161.
  19. ↑ Christine., Mirecki, (2009). Mailänder Spitze modern interpretiert. C. Mirecki. OCLC   1258361284.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: extra punctuation (link)
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