Cutwork

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Cutwork frill on a cotton petticoat Cutwork.jpg
Cutwork frill on a cotton petticoat

Cutwork or cut work, also known as punto tagliato in Italian, is a needlework technique in which portions of a textile, typically cotton or linen, [1] are cut away and the resulting "hole" is reinforced and filled with embroidery or needle lace.

Contents

Cutwork is related to drawn thread work. In drawn thread work, typically only the warp or weft threads are withdrawn (cut and removed), and the remaining threads in the resulting hole are bound in various ways. In other types of cutwork, both warp and weft threads may be drawn.

Different forms of cutwork are or have traditionally been popular in a number of countries. Needlework styles that incorporate cutwork include broderie anglaise, Carrickmacross lace, whitework, early reticella, Spanish cutwork, hedebo, [2] and jaali which is prevalent in India.

There are degrees of cutwork, ranging from the smallest amount of fabric cut away (Renaissance cutwork) to the greatest (Reticella cutwork). Richelieu cutwork in the middle. [3] :378

Eyelet fabrics

Machine-sewn eyelet fabric Cape (AM 16022-2).jpg
Machine-sewn eyelet fabric
Hand-sewn eyelet embroidery The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0236.png
Hand-sewn eyelet embroidery

Eyelet is both a type of cutwork embroidery and the fabric made from embroidering cutwork. Cutwork is used to create eyelet fabrics by cutting small holes and embroidering the edges of those holes to finish them. Common base fabrics include broadcloth, batiste, lawn, linen, organdy, and pique. [4] Leather and pleather [4] can also be used in cutwork, but often they are not then finished with embroidery.

The amount and closeness of stitching, as well as the quality of the background fabric, may vary in different types. Eyelet fabrics are an ever-popular type of fabric [5] and are used for both entire clothing pieces or for trimming pieces made from other cloth. It is also commonly used to trim bedding, curtains, and table linens. [4]

Hand-sewn eyelet is labor-intensive to produce by hand and traditionally was only used as trim or, when used in large pieces, only for expensive items; machine-made eyelet fabric made the fabric affordable for everyday wear.

History

The cutwork technique originated in Italy at the time of the Renaissance, approximately the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries. [6] In Renaissance embroidery and Richelieu work, the design is formed by cutting away the background fabric. [7] In the Elizabethan era, cutwork was incorporated into the design and decoration of some ruffs. In a fashion sense, this type of needlework has migrated to countries around the world, [8] including the United Kingdom, India, and the United States. Dresden samplers contained white cutwork, along with needle lace. [9] :195 Cutwork is still prevalent in fashion today, and although they are different, cutwork is commonly mistaken for lace. The eyelet pattern is one of the more identifiable types of cutwork in modern fashion. In eyelet embroidery, the design comes from the holes, rather than the fabric. [7]

Traditional cutwork by country

Czech Republic

Densely worked cutwork was traditional in many parts of the Czech Republic. Motifs might be circular, arc, or leaf-shaped. Because the motifs were often so close together, the embroidery looked like lace once all the motif centers were cut away. [10] :120

Italy

Embroidery pattern books after 1560 focused heavily on cutwork, as it became very popular in Italy. Initially, scrolling patterns worked in punto in aria were most evident, changing at the end of the century to reticella. The punto in aria technique involved laying threads over a linen ground, and then cutting the ground away. It was often use for freer patterns than the more geometric reticella, where squares of the ground cloth were cut out and embroidery was then applied. [11] :138

Madeira

in the 1850s, an Englishwoman, Miss Phelps, arrived in Madeira to recuperate, and she gave lessons in broderie anglaise. In the 1920s, after noting many skilled needlewomen. the Madeira Embroidery Guild was formed. Amongst its purposes was to set the pay and standards for embroiderers on the island. As indicated by the existence of the guild, many women in Madeira engaged in embroidery as a way of earning money for their families. [12]

Netherlands

Cutwork was popular throughout the Netherlands. An especially fine form of cutwork is called snee werk, used for decorating clothing such as aprons and blouses, and household items such as pillowcases. [3] :185

Poland

The eyelet form of cutwork was popular in the Polish countryside from the 1700s, if not earlier. It was used to decorate costumes and textiles for the home. The execution of this hand embroidery reached its height in the late 1800s, a prosperous time with more money for clothing. Eyelet embroidery was found on men's clothing as well as women's. For those who couldn't afford larger garments, eyelet collars that could be used to adorn different blouses were popular. Cutwork was usually done on white fabric, but around Sieradz, a pink and white striped cloth was sometimes used. Eyelet patterns were geometrical until the late 1800s. With the introduction of machine embroidery, designs became more diverse. [7] :125–132

Fragment of Cutwork Lace, Italy, late 17th century (Cleveland Museum of Art). This is an example of eyelet cutwork. Italy, late 17th century - Fragment of Needlepoint (Cutwork) Lace - 1933.354 - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif
Fragment of Cutwork Lace, Italy, late 17th century (Cleveland Museum of Art). This is an example of eyelet cutwork.

Sweden

Hålsöm, or cutwork, was a traditional form of embroidery in Sweden, and used for household linens. [3] :257

Hand cutwork

Hand cutworks is the most traditional form of cutwork. Here, areas of the fabric are cut away and stitch is applied to stop the raw edges from fraying. [13]

Laser cutwork

Laser cutwork allows for more precise and intricate patterns to be created. The laser also has the ability to melt and seal the edges of fabric with the heat of the laser. This helps against fabric fraying during the creation process. [13] Additionally, using a laser for cutwork enables the embroiderer or creator to achieve unique designs such as an 'etched look' by changing the depth of the laser cut into the fabric.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidery</span> Art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn

Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to stitch thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on hats, clothing, blankets, and handbags. Embroidery is available in a wide variety of thread or yarn colour. It is often used to personalize gifts or clothing items.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sampler (needlework)</span> Textile artwork used to display skills and techniques

A needlework sampler is a piece of embroidery or cross-stitching produced as a 'specimen of achievement', demonstration or a test of skill in needlework. It often includes the alphabet, figures, motifs, decorative borders and sometimes the name of the person who embroidered it and the date. The word sampler is derived from the Latin exemplum, which means 'example'.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Blackwork</span> Technique of monochrome embroidery originating in Tudor England

Blackwork, sometimes historically termed Spanish blackwork, is a form of embroidery generally worked in black thread, although other colours are also used on occasion, as in scarletwork, where the embroidery is worked in red thread. Originating in Tudor period England, blackwork typically, though not always, takes the form of a counted-thread embroidery, where the warp and weft yarns of a fabric are counted for the length of each stitch, producing uniform-length stitches and a precise pattern on an even-weave fabric. Blackwork may also take the form of free-stitch embroidery, where the yarns of a fabric are not counted while sewing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hardanger embroidery</span> Type of whitework embroidery from Norway

Hardanger embroidery or "Hardangersøm" is a form of embroidery traditionally worked with white thread on white even-weave linen or cloth, using counted thread and drawn thread work techniques. It is sometimes called whitework embroidery.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Drawn thread work</span> Creative textile work

Drawn thread work is one of the earliest forms of open work embroidery, and has been worked throughout Europe. Originally it was often used for ecclesiastical items and to ornament shrouds. It is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric. The remaining threads are grouped or bundled together into a variety of patterns. The more elaborate styles of drawn thread work use a variety of other stitches and techniques, but the drawn thread parts are their most distinctive element. It is also grouped with whitework embroidery because it was traditionally done in white thread on white fabric and is often combined with other whitework techniques.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lace</span> Openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand

Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is split into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted or crocheted lace. Other laces such as these are considered as a category of their specific craft. Knitted lace, therefore, is an example of knitting. This article considers both needle lace and bobbin lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Appliqué</span> Piece of textile ornament, or work created by applying such ornaments to a ground fabric

Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces or patches of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique is accomplished either by hand stitching or machine. Appliqué is commonly practised with textiles, but the term may be applied to similar techniques used on different materials. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crewel embroidery</span> Type of embroidery using wool

Crewel embroidery, or crewelwork, is a type of surface embroidery using wool. A wide variety of different embroidery stitches are used to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Needle lace</span> Lace made with a needle and thread

Needle lace is a type of lace created using a needle and thread to create hundreds of small stitches to form the lace itself.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Darning</span> Sewing technique for repairing holes or worn areas in fabric or knitting using needle and thread

Darning is a sewing technique for repairing holes or worn areas in fabric or knitting using needle and thread alone. It is often done by hand, but using a sewing machine is also possible. Hand darning employs the darning stitch, a simple running stitch in which the thread is "woven" in rows along the grain of the fabric, with the stitcher reversing direction at the end of each row, and then filling in the framework thus created, as if weaving. Darning is a traditional method for repairing fabric damage or holes that do not run along a seam, and where patching is impractical or would create discomfort for the wearer, such as on the heel of a sock.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Armenian needlelace</span>

Armenian needlelace is a pure form of needle lace made using only a needle, thread and pair of scissors.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reticella</span>

Reticella is a needle lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Broderie anglaise</span> Creative works made with eyelets and other open-work embroidery techniques

Broderie anglaise is a whitework needlework technique incorporating features of embroidery, cutwork and needle lace that became associated with England, due to its popularity there in the 19th century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Whitework embroidery</span> Creative works made with a needle using white thread on a white ground

Whitework embroidery is any embroidery technique in which the stitch and the foundation fabric are of same color. Styles of whitework embroidery include most drawn thread work, broderie anglaise, Hardanger embroidery, Hedebo embroidery, Mountmellick embroidery, reticella and Schwalm. Whitework embroidery is one of the techniques employed in heirloom sewing for blouses, christening gowns, baby bonnets, and other small articles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Buttonhole stitch</span> Stitch to reinforce edges or for decoration

Buttonhole stitch and the related blanket stitch are hand-sewing stitches used in tailoring, embroidery, and needle lace-making.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">English embroidery</span> Embroidery worked in England or by English people abroad

English embroidery includes embroidery worked in England or by English people abroad from Anglo-Saxon times to the present day. The oldest surviving English embroideries include items from the early 10th century preserved in Durham Cathedral and the 11th century Bayeux Tapestry, if it was worked in England. The professional workshops of Medieval England created rich embroidery in metal thread and silk for ecclesiastical and secular uses. This style was called Opus Anglicanum or "English work", and was famous throughout Europe.

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic Era. Although usually associated with clothing and household linens, sewing is used in a variety of crafts and industries, including shoemaking, upholstery, sailmaking, bookbinding and the manufacturing of some kinds of sporting goods. Sewing is the fundamental process underlying a variety of textile arts and crafts, including embroidery, tapestry, quilting, appliqué and patchwork.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Greek lace</span> Early form of lace

Greek lace is considered one of the earliest forms of all lace. Some types of Greek lace include reticella, Roman lace, cutwork, Venetian guipure, and Greek point lace

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hedebo embroidery</span> Danish white embroidery

The term Hedebo embroidery covers several forms of white embroidery which originated in the Hedebo (heathland) region of Zealand, Denmark, in the 1760s. The varied techniques which evolved over the next hundred years in the farming community were subsequently developed by the middle classes until around 1820. They were applied to articles of clothing such as collars and cuffs but were also used to decorate bed linen.

<i>Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology</i> Exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology was an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that showcased the dichotomy between Manus, also known as haute couture, and Machina, also known as prêt-à-porter. The Metropolitan Museum of Art debuted this exhibition during the 2016 Met Gala and ran it from May 5, 2016 to September 5, 2016. It included over 120 pieces from designers like Chanel and Christian Dior, varying from the 20th Century to present day.

References

  1. "What is Cutwork Embroidery? (With picture)". 12 January 2024.
  2. "Hedebo Definition & Meaning - Merriam-Webster".
  3. 1 2 3 Gostelow, Mary (1975). A world of embroidery. New York: Scribner. ISBN   0-684-14230-9. OCLC   1413213.
  4. 1 2 3 Betzina, Sandra (2004). More Fabric Savvy: A Quick Resource Guide to Selecting and Sewing Fabric. Taunton Press. ISBN   978-1-56158-662-2.
  5. Hollen, Norma Rosamond (1979). Textiles. New York: Macmillan. p. 230. ISBN   978-0-02-356130-6.
  6. "Cutwork | Britannica".
  7. 1 2 3 Kozaczka, Grażyna J. (1987). Old world stitchery for today : Polish eyelet embroidery, cutwork, goldwork, beadwork, drawn thread, and other techniques. Radnor, Pa.: Chilton Books Co. p. 134. ISBN   0-8019-7732-0. OCLC   16130502.
  8. "Trend alert: Cutwork - Times of India". articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com. Archived from the original on 2 February 2014. Retrieved 12 January 2022.
  9. Bath, Virginia Churchill (1979). Needlework in America : history, designs, and techniques. New York: Viking Press. ISBN   0-670-50575-7. OCLC   4957595.
  10. Gostelow, Mary (1983). Embroidery : traditional designs, techniques, and patterns from all over the world. New York: Arco Pub. ISBN   0-668-05905-2. OCLC   9465951.
  11. Needlework : an illustrated history. Harriet Bridgeman, Elizabeth Drury. New York: Paddington Press. 1978. ISBN   0-448-22066-0. OCLC   3843144.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  12. Walker, Carolyn (1987). The embroidery of Madeira. Kathy Holman (1st ed.). New York: Union Square Press. ISBN   0-941817-00-8. OCLC   15317596.
  13. 1 2 Richard Sorger; Jenny Udale (1 October 2006). The Fundamentals of Fashion Design. AVA Publishing. pp. 83–. ISBN   978-2-940373-39-0.