Mountaineering in India

Last updated

Country India
Governing bodyIndian Mountaineering Foundation
National team(s)-
Rock climbing practice on artificial rock wall at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Delhi Rock Climbing Practice On Artificial Rock Wall at Indian Mountaineering Foundation,Delhi.jpg
Rock climbing practice on artificial rock wall at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Delhi

Mountaineering is quite popular in India , since the entire northern and north-eastern borders are the Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world. The apex body in India is the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, which is affiliated to the International Federation of Sport Climbing.

Contents

India has several premier mountaineering institutes. The four National Institutes are:

The other institutes are:

Indian mountaineers

Role of The Doon School

The faculty and students of The Doon School, a boys-only boarding school in Dehradun founded in 1935, are credited to be among the early pioneers of mountaineering in a newly independent India. The founding headmaster and teachers, including A.E. Foot, R.L. Holdsworth, J.A.K. Martyn and Jack Gibson, were all Alpinists. Along with Gurdial Singh, who joined as faculty, and Narendra Dhar Jayal, then a student at Doon, they were among the first to go on major Himalayan expeditions 1940s onwards. [3] Jayal later went on to pioneer Indian mountaineering and, at Jawaharlal Nehru's behest, became the founder principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. [4] [5] [6]

See also

Related Research Articles

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was established in Darjeeling, India on 4 November 1954 to encourage mountaineering as an organized sport in India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">H. P. S. Ahluwalia</span> Indian mountaineer (1936–2022)

Major Hari Pal Singh Ahluwalia was an Indian mountaineer, author, social worker and Indian Ordnance Factories Service (IOFS) officer. During his career he made contributions in the fields of adventure, sports, environment, disability and social work. He is one of six Indian men and the twenty first man in the world to climb Mount Everest. On 29 May 1965, 12 years to the day from the first ascent of Mount Everest, he made the summit with the fourth and final successful attempt of the 1965 Indian Everest Expedition along with H. C. S. Rawat and Phu Dorjee Sherpa. This was the first time three climbers stood on the summit together.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mohan Singh Kohli</span> Indian mountaineer

Captain Mohan Singh Kohli, is an Indian Navy officer and mountaineer, who led the 1965 Indian Everest Expedition, which saw nine men reach the summit of Everest, a world record for 17 years.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Harish Chandra Singh Rawat</span> Indian mountaineer

Harish Chandra Singh Rawat was a mountaineer who climbed the Mt. Everest in 1965. He was one of the 9 summiters of the first successful Indian Everest Expeditions that climbed Mount Everest in May 1965 led by Captain M S Kohli. He is the 7th Indian man and 22nd man in world that climbed Mount Everest. On 24 May 1965 Vohra and Ang Kami Sherpa together reached the top of Mount Everest. On 29 May, 12 years to the day from the first ascent of Mount Everest the fourth and last summit team with Major H. P. S. Ahluwalia and Phu Dorjee Sherpa, Rawat reached on the summit. This was the first time three climbers stood on the summit together.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Narendra Dhar Jayal</span> Indian mountain climber (1927–1958)

Narendra Dhar Jayal (Nandu Jayal) (25 June 1927 – 28 April 1958) was an Indian mountaineer and an officer of the Bengal Sappers and the Indian Army Corps of Engineers. He is credited with pioneering and patronizing early post-Independence mountaineering in India, and was the founder principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. He encouraged the youth of India to take up mountaineering, and has been called the "Marco Polo of Indian Mountaineering".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kalanag</span> Mountain in Uttarakhand, India

Kalanag or Black Peak (6,387 m) is a peak in the Garhwal Himalaya in Uttarakhand, India. It is the highest peak in the Bandarpunch massif, others being Bandarpunch I (6,316 m) and White Peak or Bandarpunch II (6,102 m). The name literally means "Black Cobra" in Hindi.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Martyn (schoolmaster)</span> English schoolmaster, scholar, academic and Himalayan mountaineer

John A. K. Martyn OBE (1903–1984), was an English schoolmaster, scholar, academic and a distinguished British Himalayan mountaineer. He was the second headmaster of The Doon School.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gurdial Singh (mountaineer)</span> Indian mountaineer (1924–2023)

Gurdial Singh was an Indian schoolteacher and mountaineer who led the first mountaineering expedition of independent India to Trisul in 1951. In 1958, he led the team that made the first ascent of Mrigthuni . In 1965, he was a member of the first successful Indian expedition team to climb Mount Everest.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jack Gibson (schoolmaster)</span>

John Travers Mends Gibson was an English schoolmaster, scholar, academic and a distinguished British Himalayan mountaineer.

Colonel Narendra Kumar, PVSM, KC, AVSM, FRGS was an Indian soldier and mountaineer. He is known for his expeditions across various mountain ranges such as the Himalayas and Karakorams, and respective subranges such as the Pir Panjals and Saltoro Mountains. His reconnaissance efforts on the Siachen glacier were key to the Indian Army's reclamation of the forward posts of the glacier in Operation Meghdoot in 1984. He was the deputy leader of the first successful Indian Mount Everest expedition in 1965.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sonam Wangyal</span> Indian mountaineer

Sonam Wangyal is a former Indian paramilitary personnel and mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest in 1965 at the age 23, making him the youngest summiter. He was one of the nine summiters of the first successful Indian Everest Expeditions that climbed Mount Everest in May 1965 led by Captain M S Kohli. He is the 3rd Indian man, and 18th man in world, to have climbed Mount Everest. On 22 May 1965, the first time that the oldest and the youngest climbed Everest together.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sonam Gyatso (mountaineer)</span> Mountaineer

Sonam Gyatso (1923–1968) was an Indian mountaineer. He was the 2nd Indian man, the 17th man in world and first person from Sikkim to summit Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world. He was one of the nine summiters of the first successful Indian Everest Expeditions that climbed Mount Everest in May 1965 led by Captain M S Kohli. The first time that the oldest man at the time, Sonam Gyatso at age 42, and the youngest man Sonam Wangyal at age 23, climbed Everest together on 22 May 1965. He became the oldest person to scale the peak in 1965 and when he spent 50 minutes at the peak, he set a world record for spending the longest time at the highest point on Earth. The Government of India awarded him the third highest honour of the Padma Bhushan, in 1965, for his contributions to the sport of mountaineering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Indian Mountaineering Foundation</span>

Indian Mountaineering Foundation is an apex national body which organize and support, mountaineering and rock climbing expeditions at high altitudes in the Himalayas. The organization also promotes and encourages schemes for related adventure activities and environment-protection work in the Indian Himalayas. IMF has organized many expeditions to the high peaks in the Himalayas including Mount Everest.

The role of The Doon School in Indian mountaineering describes the formative links between The Doon School, an all-boys boarding school in Dehradun, India, and early, post-Independence Indian mountaineering. From the 1940s onwards, Doon's masters and students like A.E. Foot, R.L. Holdsworth, J.A.K. Martyn, Gurdial Singh, Jack Gibson, Aamir Ali, Hari Dang, Nandu Jayal, were among the first to go on major Himalayan expeditions in a newly independent nation. These early expeditions contributed towards laying the foundation of mountaineering in an independent India. Mountaineer and chronicler Harish Kapadia wrote in his book Across Peaks & Passes in Garhwal Himalaya: "To my mind, it was when Gurdial Singh [then a Doon School master] climbed Trisul in 1951 that was the beginning of the age of mountaineering for Indians."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1965 Indian Everest Expedition</span> First successful Indian summit of Mount Everest

The 1965 Indian Everest Expedition reached the summit of Mount Everest on 20 May 1965. It was the first successful scaling of the mountain by an Indian climbing expedition.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Unnikannan A. P. Veetil</span> Indian mountaineer

Unnikannan is the first Keralite to successfully climb Mount Everest twice. He is a native of Azhuthan Poyil Veetil from Peringome, a village near to Payyannur in Kannur district of Kerala State, India

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ranveer Jamwal</span> Indian mountaineer (born 1975)

Colonel Ranveer Singh Jamwal, SM, VSM**, is an officer of the Indian Army and the first Indian to climb the Seven Summits along with Mount Everest three times. He is a veteran of more than 45 mountaineering expeditions. He presently holds two Asian records and three Indian Records in mountaineering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hari Dang</span>

Hari Dang (1935-2016) was an Indian educationist and a mountaineer. While at The Doon School, he led the schoolboys on the first Indian expedition to Mt. Jaonli in 1965.

Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute (SGMI) is a paramilitary mountaineering school, located in Gangtok, India.

References

  1. "Ecelluiet". Ecelluiet. 2015. Archived from the original on 2 February 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2015.
  2. "Army officer Ranveer Jamwal scales Mt Everest for a third time". the times of india. the times of india. Retrieved 7 November 2017.
  3. Kohli, M.S. (2002). Mountains of India: Tourism, Adventure and Pilgrimage. Indus. p. 209. ISBN   9788173871351. p.290, Much of the credit for early interest in mountaineering among Indians goes to the Doon School, largely because of some distinguished British mountaineers on its staff like J.A.K. Martyn, J.T.M. Gibson, R.L. Holdsworth...In 1951, Gurdial Singh of the Doon School climbed the 7,120 metres high Trisul. This was the first Indian summit.
  4. Rudraneil Sengupta. "Vertical limit". Livemint.com. Retrieved 11 April 2019.
  5. Katherine Indermaur (13 September 2018). "An interview with Suman Dubey about his memories of the 1961 Indian expedition to Nanda Devi". Alpinist.com. Retrieved 11 April 2019.
  6. vdt15 (24 February 2002). "Climb every mountain". The Hindu . Archived from the original on 22 September 2002. Retrieved 19 April 2019.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)