Rag paper

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Rag paper
Embroidery and lace pattern book, vol. 1, by Margaretha Helm, Germany, Nuremburg, c. 1720, rag paper - Royal Ontario Museum - DSC04416.JPG
Type Paper
Material Fiber crop rags
Introduced106 CE, China

Rag paper, or rag-made paper, is a category of paper that is made from discarded textiles, rope, and other fiber products. Rag paper in its various forms was a widely used paper for most of the past two millennia. Rag paper is valued today as a specialty paper for its archival quality and strength compared to wood pulp paper.

Contents

History

Pre-Modern

China

The invention of rag paper is attributed to Cai Lun in 106 CE, Luoyang, China, when he beat hemp and ramie rags with rope scraps, paper mulberry and other fibers into a pulp. Dunhuang and Turfan were major centers of rag paper production in the first millennium, possibly due to their desert environment incentivizing rag re-use versus mulberry paper production. Rag paper production declined in China after the 10th century due to the rising cost of textiles. [1] [2]

Islamic world

16th century Islamic miniature Brooklyn Museum - Portrait of a Woman Standing.jpg
16th century Islamic miniature

Rag paper was introduced to the Middle East through the Silk Road prior to the 8th century, but domestic production only began by the 8th century, particularly in Baghdad. Arab papermakers developed 'pure' rag paper, made from an alternative pulp entirely constituting linen rags; this paper supplanted papyrus and parchment for most uses by the 11th century. [3] [4] :678

Europe

Rag paper spread to Al-Andalus by the mid-10th century, with Xàtiva being a major production center of linen rag paper by the 11th century. Sephardic Jews were heavily involved in the rag paper industry. The Reconquista saw Spanish Christians increasingly in possession of libraries of Andalusian paper books, spurring a Western European paper industry utilizing cotton rags in addition to linens. [5] [6]

In the late 12th century, rag paper spread to Italy through Mediterranean trade with the merchant republics. Amalfi paper was an increasingly relevant Italian rag paper by the early 13th century, marked by Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor banning its use for court documents. [7]

Modern

18th century American rag paper shop Rags to riches.jpg
18th century American rag paper shop

Early modern

Cut rags after industrial washing drums, c. 1869 Cut rags after removing from washing drums, paper mills, Holyoke, Mass, by Keystone View Company.jpg
Cut rags after industrial washing drums, c. 1869

Following the invention of the printing press in the 16th century, the cost of book production dropped significantly, increasing paper demand. Printing press production speeds did not significantly increase until the 1812 invention of the steam-powered printing press by Friedrich Koenig. Conversely, the 1799 invention of the paper machine mechanized the rag paper industry. [8]

Transition to pulpwood industrial standard

The 1844 invention of the rotary printing press and the rise of literacy in industrialized nations increased demand for and output of print products. As the rag paper print economy hit its zenith in the 1850s, industrial paper producers struggled to meet paper demand as it outpaced rag-picking. In the United Kingdom, excise taxes on rags coupled with foreign demand for rag exports particularly bottle-necked the British rag paper industry; producers attempted to increase supply by bleaching colored rags, and housemaids were implored to sell their spare rags instead of keeping them as menstrual rags. The London Times put out a bounty in 1855 for £1,000 for an alternative to rag paper. [8] [9] [10]

With the introduction of esparto grass paper in the 1860s and sulfite process pulpwood paper in the later 19th century, rag-paper became increasingly economically obsolete. Newspapers were greatly incentivized to shift to newsprint, to minimize printing costs; however, archival quality suffered immensely. [10] [11]

Production

Rag-pickers would collect rags from urban areas to sell to producers, which would in turn make rag paper for sale back to city centers. Collected rags were cut, then washed to remove impurities. The washed rags are ground into a pulp, then the pulp made into a slurry before screening, sizing and drying. [9] [12]

Industrialized rag paper production saw the introduction of paper machines, mechanical washers, and mounted scythe workstations to process larger amounts of rags. [12]

Types of rag paper

See also

References

  1. "Paper and Printing", Cabinet, Global Networks of Innovation: China, Islam and the West, 1100-1700, Oxford University, retrieved 2025-09-16
  2. Helman-Ważny, Agnieszka. “More than Meets the Eye: Fibre and Paper Analysis of the Chinese Manuscripts from the Silk Roads.” Science & Technology of Archaeological Research, vol. 2, no. 2, Dec. 2016, pp. 127–40. EBSCOhost, https://doi.org/10.1080/20548923.2016.1207971.
  3. Shatzmiller, Maya. “The Adoption of Paper in the Middle East, 700-1300 AD.” Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient, vol. 61, no. 3, 2018, pp. 461–90. JSTOR, https://www.jstor.org/stable/26572311. Accessed 17 Sept. 2025.
  4. Hoernle, A. F. Rudolf. “Who Was the Inventor of Rag-Paper?” Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland, 1903, pp. 663–84. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/25208572. Accessed 19 Sept. 2025.
  5. “Chapter 1: PAPER, PAPERCUTTING ARTS, AND SHADOW THEATER FIGURES IN DIFFERENT CULTURES.” Traditional Jewish Papercuts: An Inner World of Art & Symbol, 2002, pp. 3–17. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=asu&AN=38214915&site=eds-live&scope=site.
  6. Bellver, José. “Looted Libraries and Legitimation Policies: Ptolemy, the Library of Al-Arawšī and the Translation Movement in Toledo.” Arabica, vol. 68, no. 5/6, Dec. 2021, pp. 628–61. EBSCOhost, https://doi.org/10.1163/15700585-12341626.
  7. Gartman, Joe. “Ragtime in Amalfi. (Cover Story).” Italia!, no. 206, Dec. 2023, pp. 37–39. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=f6h&AN=173075519&site=eds-live&scope=site.
  8. 1 2 Adler, Rachel (2017-09-04), The 19th Century Moral Panic Over … Paper Technology, Slate
  9. 1 2 Wynne, Deborah. Reading Victorian Rags: Recycling, Redemption, and Dickens's Ragged Children, Journal of Victorian Culture, Volume 20, Issue 1, 1 March 2015, Pages 34–49, https://doi.org/10.1080/13555502.2014.991747
  10. 1 2 Menke, Richard. “New Grub Street ’s Ecologies of Paper.” Victorian Studies, vol. 61, no. 1, Oct. 2018, pp. 60–82. EBSCOhost, https://doi.org/10.2979/victorianstudies.61.1.03.
  11. "Grand Old Rag", TIME Magazine, vol. 9, no. 2, Jan. 1927, p. 22. EBSCOhost, https://wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/login?auth=production&url=https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=f6h&AN=54755027&site=eds-live&scope=site.
  12. 1 2 Weeks, Lyman Horace (1916). "Equipment and Raw Material". A History of Paper-manufacturing in the United States, 1690-1916 (PDF). Lockwood Trade Journal Company. p. 57-76.