Fashion capital

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Haute couture fashion models walk the runway during New York Fashion Week. Carolina Herrera AW14 12.jpg
Haute couture fashion models walk the runway during New York Fashion Week.
A 2010 Milan Fashion Week event Milan Fashion Week 2.jpg
A 2010 Milan Fashion Week event
Berlin Fashion Week in 2013. Berlin has returned to being a fashion capital after the German reunification. BerlinFashionWeek2013.jpg
Berlin Fashion Week in 2013. Berlin has returned to being a fashion capital after the German reunification.

A fashion capital is a city with major influence on the international fashion scene, from history, heritage, designers, trends, and styles, to manufacturing innovation and retailing of fashion products, including events such as fashion weeks, fashion council awards, and trade fairs that together, generate significant economic output. [2]

Contents

With exquisite fashion heritage, structured organization, and the most vaunted fashion designers of the 20th century, four cities are considered the main fashion capitals of the 21st century. Called the Big Four, the most prominent fashion capitals of the world—in chronological order of their eponymous fashion weeks, are New York City, London, Milan, and Paris, which receive the majority of press coverage. [3]

Fashion capitals offer exhibitions and are an opportunity for designers to show off their latest collections as well as for the fashion industry to interact and work together. Fashion has become a powerful platform for social change and advocacy which is why fashion capitals are so influential.

Definition of a fashion capital

A fashion capital assumes a leadership role in the design of fashion, the creation of styles, and the emergence of fashion trends. In addition, fashion capitals have a broad mix of business, artistic, entertainment, cultural, and leisure activities that are internationally recognized for each having a strongly unique identity. [4] The fashion capital status is also linked to the city's domestic and international profile. [5] Fashion capitals are part of a wider social construct scene, with design schools, fashion magazines, and powerful market of affluent consumers of fashion. [5]

In the 16th century, Milan came to be regarded as the world's fashion capital. Nowadays, while the term fashion capital is still used to describe cities that hold fashion weeks —most prominently, in chronological order, New York, London, Paris, and Milan [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] —, it is the economic development and stylistics created by a fashion capital city that matter to the showbiz and fashion industry. [11] [12] Tokyo, with its fashion week, is also widely viewed as the fifth key city of fashion, and Asia's most important fashion capital. [13] Also, nowadays, the term fashion capital includes other world cities known for hosting notable fashion events and have influential designers in the world of global fashion. [14]

History

Historically, several cities have been, in turn, fashion capitals. During the Renaissance era, different city-states in what would become modern-day Italy were Europe's main trendsetters, [15] due to the cultural power they exerted in that period. This included cities such as Florence, Milan, Rome, Naples, Genoa, and Venice. [16]

Progressing into the late 16th century, with the influence of the English royal court, London became a major city in European fashion. Similarly, due to the power of Spain during the period, the Spanish court started to influence fashion, making it a major centre. In the 17th century, as the Renaissance began to fade away, with the power of the French court under Louis XIV, Paris established itself as Europe's main fashion centre. [17]

During the 19th century, with the powerful British Empire and young Queen Victoria on the throne (from 1837), London once again became a major fashion leader. [18] However, it continued to look to Paris for stylistic inspiration, and the British 'father of haute couture' Charles Frederick Worth relocated to Paris in 1846. He did this to perfect and commercialize his craft, holding the first fashion shows and launching the concept of fashion labels there. [19]

20th century and beyond

New York's Garment District, 1955 Garment District NYWTS crop.jpg
New York's Garment District, 1955

During the Golden Twenties, Berlin was considered the vanguard fashion capital. [20]

Throughout the 20th century – but particularly after World War II – New York City rose in stature as a fashion capital, challenging the dominance of Paris with a different approach, especially in its development and popularization of sportswear as fashion during the 1940s and '50s. [21]

During the 1950s, Italy rose in prominence again. [22] Florence re-emerged as a leading city in fashion, [23] although focus shifted to Milan from the 1970s on as leading design houses moved to the city. [24]

"Swinging London," Carnaby Street, c. 1966 Londons Carnaby Street, 1966.jpg
"Swinging London," Carnaby Street, c. 1966

In the 1980s, Tokyo claimed its place as a fashion capital with a new generation of avant-garde designers, including Issey Miyake or Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons gaining worldwide attention, even if most of the city's newcomers gained prominence after showcasing their clothing in Paris. The fashion was radically different in its use of textiles and the way designers cut and draped. [25] [26]

Since then, new fashion hubs have emerged worldwide, and the old order has faced challenges from all corners of the globe, including Africa, South America, and Australasia. [27] Since 2007, Berlin has again been highlighted as an increasingly important centre for global fashion trends. [28] [29]

A 2011 issue of Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture explored the move away from the traditional dominance of five key cities (New York, Paris, Milan, Tokyo, and London), with co-editor Lise Skov, suggesting what she described as a "poly-centric" fashion industry developing in the 21st century. [21]

In 2019, the Vienna-based fashion intelligence firm IFDAQ under the leadership of fashion sociologist Professor Frédéric Godart measured in a scientific approach the importance, influence, and impact of cities in the fashion industry with neural networks from a large data lake. The resulting IFDAQ Global Fashion and Luxury Cities Index [30] revealed New York as the leading fashion capital, followed by Paris, Milan, and London. A further elaboration of the data in cooperation with the Institution of Engineering and Technology visualized the impact of geopolitical events on the fashion capitals, including Brexit and the US-China trade war. [2]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Milan</span> Second-largest city in Italy

Milan is a city in northern Italy, regional capital of Lombardy, and the second-most-populous city proper in Italy after Rome. The city proper has a population of about 1.4 million, while its metropolitan city has 3.22 million residents. The urban area of Milan is the fourth largest in the EU with 5.27 million inhabitants. According to national sources, the population within the wider Milan metropolitan area is estimated between 4.9 million and 7.4 million, making it by far the largest metropolitan area in Italy and one of the largest in the EU. Milan is the economic capital of Italy, one of the economic capitals of Europe and a global financial centre.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion week</span> Fashion industry event

A fashion week is a week-long fashion industry event where fashion designers, brands, or "houses" display their latest collections in runway fashion shows to buyers and the media which influences upcoming fashion trends for the current and approaching seasons.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rei Kawakubo</span> Japanese fashion designer

Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris. She is the founder of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market. In recognition of the notable design contributions of Kawakubo, an exhibition of her designs entitled Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons, Art of the In-Between opened on 5 May 2017 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan, modeled by Rihanna.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">London Fashion Week</span> Clothing trade show in London, England

London Fashion Week (LFW) is a clothing trade show that takes place in London, UK, twice a year, in February and September. The event showcases over 250 designers to a global audience of influential media and retailers. It is one of the "Big Five" global fashion weeks alongside Milan, Paris, New York, and Tokyo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paris Fashion Week</span> Fashion industry event in Paris, France

Paris Fashion Week is a series of designer presentations held semi-annually in Paris, France, with spring/summer and autumn/winter events held each year. Dates are determined by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Paris Fashion Week is held at venues throughout the city.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion design</span> Art of applying design and aesthetics to clothing and accessories

Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates clothing, including dresses, suits, pants, and skirts, and accessories like shoes and handbags, for consumers. He or she can specialize in clothing, accessory, or jewelry design, or may work in more than one of these areas."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">French fashion</span> Overview of fashion in the French Republic

Fashion in France is an important subject in the culture and country's social life, as well as being an important part of its economy.

The United States is the leading country in the fashion design industry, followed by France, Italy, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Japan. Apart from professional business attire, American fashion is eclectic and predominantly informal. While Americans' diverse cultural roots are reflected in their clothing, particularly those of recent immigrants, cowboy hats, boots, jeans, and leather motorcycle jackets are emblematic of specifically American styles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Street style</span> Fashion movement based on individualism

Street style is fashion that is considered to have emerged not from studios, but from the population at large. Street fashion is generally associated with youth culture, and is most often seen in major urban centers. Magazines and newspapers commonly feature candid photographs of individuals wearing urban, stylish clothing. Mainstream fashion often appropriates street fashion trends as influences. Most major youth subcultures have had an associated street fashion. Street style is different all around the globe.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Milan Fashion Week</span> Italian clothing trade show

Milan Fashion Week is a clothing trade show held semi-annually in Milan, Italy. Upcoming autumn/winter fashions are showcased in February/March of each year, and upcoming spring/summer fashions are showcased in September/October of each year. Many designers showcase new designs and upcoming collections. Milan Fashion Week is one of the "Big Five" global fashion weeks alongside New York, Paris, London, and Tokyo.

Italy is one of the leading countries in fashion design, alongside France and the United Kingdom. Fashion has always been an important part of the country's cultural life and society, and Italians are well known for their attention to dress; la bella figura, or good appearance, retains its traditional importance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Economy of Milan</span>

Milan is the capital of the Lombardy region in northern Italy and is the wealthiest city in Italy. Milan and Lombardy had a GDP of €400 billion and €650 billion respectively in 2017. Milan surpassed Berlin in the size of its economy in 2014, and has since been the richest city among the Four Motors for Europe. It is a member of the Blue Banana corridor among Europe's economic leaders.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion in Milan</span> Aspect of culture in Milan

The Italian city of Milan is recognised internationally as one of the world's most important fashion capitals, along with Paris, New York and London.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of Italian fashion</span>

The history of Italian fashion is a chronological record of the events and people that impacted and evolved Italian fashion into what it is today. From the Middle Ages, Italian fashion has been popular internationally, with cities in Italy producing textiles like velvet, silk, and wool. During the Middle Ages and Renaissance, Italian fashion for both men and women was extravagant and expensive, but the fashion industry declined during the industrialization of Italy. Many modern Italian fashion brands were founded in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and in the 1950s and 1960s, Italian fashion regained popularity worldwide. While many clients of Italian fashion designers are celebrities, Italian fashion brands also focus on ready-to-wear clothes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Comme des Garçons</span> Japanese fashion brand

Comme des Garçons is a Japanese fashion label based in Paris founded by Rei Kawakubo. Its French flagship store is located in Paris. The brand has physical retail stores in London, Melbourne, Seoul, Hong Kong, New York City and in the Aoyama district of Tokyo. Other than fashion, the label has expanded to include jewelry and perfume.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion in South Korea</span>

For decades now, fashion in South Korea has evolved due to inspirations from Western culture in the past, from Korea's wealth, social media practices in Korea as well as the country's highly developed economy. This, with the rise of the Korean Wave has also made Korea highly influential in fashion trends worldwide due to the popularity of its modern pop culture.

Budapest Fashion Week is a fashion week trade show held annually in April and October in Budapest, Hungary, usually after the five major fashion weeks. It is still aspiring to the level of big five fashion weeks. Based on the concept of the international fashion week series, TONI&GUY Fashion Week Budapest is an event, where the leading Hungarian fashion designers and international designers gain platform to introduce their seasonal collections twice a year for the Hungarian and international fashion industry and the public as well. The event is usually held in the Palazzo Dorottya.

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana is a non-profit organization, whose purpose is the promotion, coordination of the Italian fashion industry and the training of young Italian designers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Frédéric Godart</span> French researcher, industry expert and sociologist

Frédéric Godart is a French sociologist and researcher who is an Associate Professor of Organizational Behavior at INSEAD in Fontainebleau (France). His work is on the dynamics of creative industries, and fashion and luxury. He is co-editor-in-chief of Poetics: Journal of Empirical Research on Culture, the Media and the Arts. Godart's 2012 book is called Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry.

References

  1. ↑ "Berlin as a fashion capital: the improbable rise". Fashion United UK. Retrieved 24 May 2014.
  2. 1 2 Heubl, Ben (14 February 2020). "Paris now leads Milan in EU fashion market". IET . Retrieved 29 March 2021.
  3. ↑ "The World's Most Fashionable Cities for 2021 | Fashion Week Online®". fashionweekonline.com. 7 June 2021. Retrieved 22 May 2022.[ title missing ]
  4. ↑ Gemperli, Natalia. "Fashion World Mapper: Your City on the Trend Radar". Master Thesis, University of the Arts Zürich. June 2010.
  5. 1 2 Florida, Richard (7 September 2012). "The World's Leading Cities for Fashion". The Atlantic Cities. Archived from the original on 15 May 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  6. ↑ Armstrong, Lisa (22 September 2013). "Is there a future for Fashion Week?". Daily Telegraph. Archived from the original on 2 May 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  7. ↑ Bradford, Julie (2014). Fashion Journalism. Routledge. p. 129. ISBN   9781136475368.
  8. ↑ Dillon, Susan (2011). The Fundamentals of Fashion Management. A&C Black. p. 115. ISBN   9782940411580.
  9. ↑ Godart, Frédéric (2012). Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry. Palgrave Macmillan. p. 57. ISBN   9781137000743.
  10. ↑ "The Big Four : Fashion Capitals of the World". Fashion Days. 5 February 2014. Archived from the original on 30 October 2014. Retrieved 30 October 2014.
  11. ↑ "The Big Four: Fashion capitals of the World". Fashion Days. 5 February 2014. Archived from the original on 30 October 2014. Retrieved 30 October 2014.
  12. ↑ Heyman, Stephen (1 October 2014). "The Figures Behind the Catwalk". New York Times.
  13. ↑ Wetherille, Kelly (20 May 2013). "Retail Meccas: Tokyo". WWD. Retrieved 18 December 2023.
  14. ↑ "Top fashion weeks around the world". The Independent. 2 January 2011. Archived from the original on 5 January 2011. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  15. ↑ "Renaissance Fashion". Renaissance-spell.com. 9 May 2007. Retrieved 7 February 2013.
  16. ↑ ""Beauty Adorns Virtue": Italian Renaissance Fashion | Fashion History Timeline". fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu. Retrieved 4 October 2022.
  17. ↑ Godart, Frédéric (2014), "The power structure of the fashion industry: Fashion capitals, globalization and creativity", International Journal of Fashion Studies, 1 (1): 39–57, doi:10.1386/infs.1.1.39_1, archived from the original on 21 March 2016, retrieved 8 October 2015
  18. ↑ Johnstone, Lucy. "Corsets & Crinoline in Victorian Fashion". V&A. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  19. ↑ staff. "Worth". Vogue. Archived from the original on 2 May 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  20. ↑ Schreiber, Mathias (23 November 2012). "The Age of Excess: Berlin in the Golden Twenties". Der Spiegel. SPIEGEL. Retrieved 3 June 2014.
  21. 1 2 "Fashioning the City: Exploring Fashion Cultures, Structures and Systems". Royal College of Art. 27 January 2012. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  22. ↑ Fearon, Francesca (31 March 2014). "Exhibition at London's V&A Museum to chronicle rise of Italian Fashion". South China Morning Post. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  23. ↑ "the birth of italian fashion". Gbgiorgini.it. Archived from the original on 16 October 2011. Retrieved 7 February 2013.
  24. ↑ Bruzzi, Stella; et al. (2013). Fashion Cultures Revisited 2013. Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge. p. 23. ISBN   9781136474736.
  25. ↑ "Japan Fashion Now". 2010–11. Fashion Institute of Technology. Archived from the original on 2 May 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  26. ↑ "Miyake, Kawakubo, and Yamamoto: Japanese Fashion in the Twentieth Century". Metrolopolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  27. ↑ staff (2 January 2011). "2011 top fashion weeks around the world: Paris, New York, Milan, Tokyo..." The Independent. Archived from the original on 5 January 2011. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  28. ↑ Staff (17 January 2012). "Germany's fashion capital: the improbable rise of Berlin". 17 January 2012. Fashion United. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  29. ↑ Scholz, Kay-Alexander (18 January 2012). "The Phoenix of Fashion Rises in Berlin". Die Welt. Retrieved 2 May 2014.
  30. ↑ http://research.ifdaq.com/cities/ IFDAQ Global Fashion and Luxury Cities - Top 30
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