History of Italian fashion

Last updated

The history of Italian fashion is a chronological record of the events and people that impacted and evolved Italian fashion into what it is today. From the Middle Ages, Italian fashion has been popular internationally, with cities in Italy producing textiles like velvet, silk, and wool. During the Middle Ages and Renaissance, Italian fashion for both men and women was extravagant and expensive, but the fashion industry declined during the industrialization of Italy. Many modern Italian fashion brands were founded in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and in the 1950s and 1960s, Italian fashion regained popularity worldwide. While many clients of Italian fashion designers are celebrities, Italian fashion brands also focus on ready-to-wear clothes.

Contents

Cecilia Gallerani as The Lady with an Ermine, painted by Leonardo da Vinci around 1489. This painting exemplifies Italian fashion in the 15th century. Lady with an Ermine - Leonardo da Vinci (adjusted levels).jpg
Cecilia Gallerani as The Lady with an Ermine , painted by Leonardo da Vinci around 1489. This painting exemplifies Italian fashion in the 15th century.

Renaissance

Italian fashion, art, music, and philosophy flourished during the Renaissance in Italy. [1] [2] The cities of Venice, Milan, Florence, Palermo, Naples, and Rome produced textiles such as velvet, silk, and wool. [3] Italian fashion grew in popularity and influence across Europe, and was preferred by one of the most powerful families in Italy, the Medicis of Florence. [4] In the 15th and 16th centuries, Italian fashion was influenced by the art of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Raphael. [5] Italian fashion was extravagant and expensive, crafted from velvet, brocade, ribbons, and jewels.

Women's styles during the Renaissance

In the 1400s, women's fashion shifted from high-necked gowns and braided hair wrapped around the head to layered V-shaped necklines and longer braids. Gathered and pleated skirts were popular. [6] [7] Women's fashion at the time could be defined by one word: fullness. While men worked to accentuate the top portion of their bodies, women did the opposite. The top and bust area was always fitted and the waist was to be accentuated as the tiniest part of the body. Then the bottom half of the body would be made to look as full as possible, with extravagant and over the top skirts. Wide and puffed sleeves were the popular styles and wealthy women often had fur lined sleeves. Clothing was not about comfort or convenience, as women would typically wear about 5 layers on an everyday basis. Women's dresses consisted of fitted garments worn underneath a belted dress, also called giornea. Unlike the men's, the women's giornea covered their feet, and originally evolved from the houppelande (a long, full-skirted gown with a high collar). [8] The skirts were fitted around the waist and often pleated. Earlier dresses had a slit in the front that revealed the garment underneath, and later dresses had a slit on the side. Underneath the giornea, women wore a gamurra, a long dress that had a high waistline. Some had detachable sleeves. The undergarment was a plain linen dress, called a camicia. Women wore high heels called Pianelle. Heels were worn less for fashion at the time and more for functionality. Women wore heeled shoes to keep their dresses from dragging on the damp and dirty streets.

Portrait of Barbara Pallavicino by Alessandro Araldi, ca. 1510 Araldi pallavicino.jpg
Portrait of Barbara Pallavicino by Alessandro Araldi, ca. 1510

Women's hairstyles and headdresses

Hairstyles at the time were dependent on a woman's marital status. If a woman was single, she would wear her hair down, usually in loose curls. Once women were wed, they would begin wearing their hair up, in tight braids. Popular accessories for the hair:

Men's styles during the Renaissance

Giovanni Battista Moroni - Bearded Man in Black, 1576. Renaissance men wore hose or tights to emphasize their lower body. Giovanni Battista Moroni - Bearded Man in Black, 1576.jpg
Giovanni Battista Moroni - Bearded Man in Black, 1576. Renaissance men wore hose or tights to emphasize their lower body.

During the Italian Renaissance, men wore large, fitted waistcoats underneath pleated overcoats called giornea , which had wide, puffy mutton sleeves and were often made from brocade. Men wore hats like caps and berets. Men typically wore an overcoat called a cioppa, which had lining of a different color than the main fabric, a defining feature of fashion during the Italian Renaissance. Men typically wore hose or tights that emphasized their lower bodies. Men and women wore outer clothes with detachable and often slashed sleeves of varied designs. Wealthy people owned many different pairs of sleeves to match their overcoats and dresses. [6] [7] The Renaissance changed societal attitudes toward clothing and appearance. Men in particular wanted to wear more fitted clothes to emphasize their body shape. Merchants expanded the market for apparel, and created complementary accessories such as hats, hairnets, bags, and gloves. The widespread use of mirrors, popular in Renaissance interior design and architecture, increased interest in self-image and fashion.

Men's hairstyles and headdresses

Portrait of a fashionable young man wearing a cap. (1518) Italian Master - Portrait of a young man (1518).jpg
Portrait of a fashionable young man wearing a cap. (1518)

The bonnet was worn by Venetians. The bonnet is a small, round or squared, brimless cap that was usually red or black and made of felt or velvet. It is unadorned and sometimes pinched in at the four corners. Slight variations in the bonnet's style were visible among the different social classes and professions. For church officials and university professors, the cap had four corners or the sign of the cross. For a doctor of divinity, the cap had three corners. The cornered cap evolved into today's square trencher or mortarboard university hat.

It was often worn over a velvet coif or gold cord net and sometimes attached to a wig. Caps for daily use were made out of cloth, while fancier bonnets were made out of luxurious materials like felt, velvet, satin, taffeta, scarceness (a thin silk) and straw in the summer. The decorations used for the beret were usually white, in untrimmed ostrich, peacock, marabou and wool imitation, and plumes. Feathers held with jeweled sockets with spangles and jewels would often be sewn onto the spine. Brooches with sacred motifs were also used for decoration. Small gold ornaments in bowknots, rings, and buttons were sewn to the underside of the brim.

It was common for men in the 16th century to have a clean-shaven face along with a straight or crimped bob. Long bangs of natural hair or silk wigs were fashionable, as well. Francois I started the trend of short hair and beards in the Italians and the Swiss, after accidentally cutting his hair. In the 1560s, starch was invented and men started to starch their beards. From the 1570s to 1590s, men brushed the front of their hair up off their foreheads. For elegant events or occasions, men wore wigs to conceal their baldness. They would wear tilted berets attached to a wig instead of a coif. Wigs were made out of real hair.

Clerical dress

Prior to 1500, there were no rules about the color of the clerical dress. However, due to a decision in 1565 in Milan, black became the accepted color in Italy. While white remained as the pope's biretta color, scarlet was accepted by the Cardinals, purple by the bishops, and black by the clerics.

Decline

In the 17th century, Italian fashion fell into a decline, while Spain, England, and France led the industry. In Europe, French fashion was most popular. The fashion industry remained active in Italy, especially in Rome, Milan, and Florence. In the mid-19th century, cheaper silk was imported to Milan from Asia because the phylloxera pest infestation damaged silk and wine produced in Italy. After industrialization, metal, mechanical, and furniture manufacturing replaced textile production. Some of the first modern Italian fashion designers, such as Bulgari, Prada, Gucci, and Ferragamo, were founded in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In the 1950s and 1960s, Italian fashion regained popularity worldwide.

During this time, the production of fabrics growth up, allowing fashion designers to have access to high-quality fabrics a century later. Three major production centers in the wool industry started to develop in Italy: Veneto, Piedmont, and Tuscany. In Veneto, industrialist Alessandro Rossi set up wool factories in Schio, leading the company of his father Francesco Rossi. La Fabbrica Alta was the most notable one. [9] Meanwhile, Gaetano Marzotto specialized in fine carded and combed fabric in Valdagno. In the Biella area of Piedmont surged some of the most recognized fabric manufacturers, such as Piacenza, Reda, Rivetti, Zegna, Sella, and Loro Piana. In this region appeared the first wool association in Italy. [10]

In 1911, Lombardy concentrated the spindles and looms of Italy. Half of them were in the region. Families such as Cantoni, Ponti, and Crespi became influential in the industry. [10] In 1922, cotton fabrics reached 100 000 tones. It increased to 145 000 tonnes in 1940. [10]

Revival

A dress made by Valentino for Audrey Hepburn. Valentino evening gown for Audrey Hepburn.jpg
A dress made by Valentino for Audrey Hepburn.

In the post-war, Italian handmade items were recognized as high quality and low-cost products. Italy adopted American methods of production and took advantage of preexisting connections between Italian tailors that emigrated to the United States. [11] The United States helped to Italian textile and clothing industry to integrate into the world, creating also a demand for Italian products. [11]

In Florence, Giovanni Battista Giorgini achieved the first contact between Italian fashion and American buyers. He convinced Italian designers to show their works to fashion journalists and American buyers. [11] On 12 February 1951, the Italian businessman Giovanni Battista Giorgini held a fashion show in Florence to make Italy an international leader in fashion design. [12] In 1952, Brioni staged the first men's fashion show in history. [13] Prior to his soirées in 1951 to 1953, Italy had begun exporting luxury fashion goods and handbags to other nations, including the United States. [11]

The growing presence of Italy in the American market allowed an expansion of the Italian fashion industry. Exports grew by more than 150 percent from 1950 to 1956.   In 1957, Italy was the main European exporter to the United States and Canada. [11] Unlike other countries leading the fashion industry, Italian lacked a center associated with a national style. Florence, Rome, and Milan disputed the title. Each urban center displayed an own tradition in craftsmanship. [11]

In 1957, textile products were the second largest retail sale group in Italy after food. [10] There were 175 000 shops specialized in selling linen, knitwear, socks, fabrics, ready-made clothes, shoes, jewelers and custom jewelers, milliners, furriers, and luggage. Ready-to-Wear industry existed in Italy for a long time, but its boom surged between 1958 and 1963, during the economic miracle. [10]

In the 1960s, the handbags produced by the designer Gucci drew the attention of celebrities such as Grace Kelly, Peter Sellers, Audrey Hepburn and the First Lady of the United States, Jackie Kennedy. Gucci's "GG" monogram logo became synonymous with Hollywood fashion. [14] Jackie Kennedy developed a close friendship with the Italian designer Valentino Garavani, and wore his designs ever since 1965, including at her wedding to Aristotle Onassis. Florence was Italy's fashion capital in the 1950s and 1960s, and Milan in the 1970s and 1980s, with Versace, Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana opening up their first boutiques there. Until the 1970s, Italian fashion primarily served the wealthy, similar to haute couture in France.

In the 1970s and 1980s, Italian fashion started to concentrate on ready-to-wear clothes, such as jeans, sweaters, and miniskirts. Milan had more affordable styles for shoppers, and Florence was no longer considered the fashion capital of Italy. New clothing labels, such as Miu Miu [15] and Geox, started to appear worldwide in the 1990s. Many celebrities, such as Beyoncé, Axl Rose, Elton John, Naomi Campbell, Elizabeth Hurley, Lady Gaga, Victoria Beckham, Madonna, Britney Spears, Rihanna, Alexandra Burke, Christina Aguilera, and even Diana, Princess of Wales, [16] were clients of Italian fashion designers.

Milan and Rome are important internationally in the fashion industry, along with Tokyo, Los Angeles, London, Paris and New York. [17] Venice, Florence, Naples, Bologna, Genoa, and Turin are other important centers of fashion. Italy's main shopping districts are the Via Montenapoleone fashion district in Milan, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, Via dei Condotti in Rome, Via de' Tornabuoni in Florence, and Chiaia in Naples.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1860s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1860s

1860s fashion in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by extremely full-skirted women's fashions relying on crinolines and hoops and the emergence of "alternative fashions" under the influence of the Artistic Dress movement.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1830s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1830s

1830s fashion in Western and Western-influenced fashion is characterized by an emphasis on breadth, initially at the shoulder and later in the hips, in contrast to the narrower silhouettes that had predominated between 1800 and 1820.

Clothing terminology comprises the names of individual garments and classes of garments, as well as the specialized vocabularies of the trades that have designed, manufactured, marketed and sold clothing over hundreds of years.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1840s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1840s

1840s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a narrow, natural shoulder line following the exaggerated puffed sleeves of the later 1820s and 1830s. The narrower shoulder was accompanied by a lower waistline for both men and women.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1550–1600 in European fashion</span> Costume in the second half of the 16th century

Fashion in the period 1550–1600 in European clothing was characterized by increased opulence. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation remained prominent. The wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders had reached its peak in the 1530s, and by mid-century a tall, narrow line with a V-lined waist was back in fashion. Sleeves and women's skirts then began to widen again, with emphasis at the shoulder that would continue into the next century. The characteristic garment of the period was the ruff, which began as a modest ruffle attached to the neckband of a shirt or smock and grew into a separate garment of fine linen, trimmed with lace, cutwork or embroidery, and shaped into crisp, precise folds with starch and heated irons.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1750–1775 in Western fashion</span>

Fashion in the years 1750–1775 in European countries and the colonial Americas was characterised by greater abundance, elaboration and intricacy in clothing designs, loved by the Rococo artistic trends of the period. The French and English styles of fashion were very different from one another. French style was defined by elaborate court dress, colourful and rich in decoration, worn by such iconic fashion figures as Marie Antoinette.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1600–1650 in Western fashion</span> Costume in the first half of the 17th century

Fashion in the period 1600–1650 in Western clothing is characterized by the disappearance of the ruff in favour of broad lace or linen collars. Waistlines rose through the period for both men and women. Other notable fashions included full, slashed sleeves and tall or broad hats with brims. For men, hose disappeared in favour of breeches.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1650–1700 in Western fashion</span>

Fashion in the period 1650–1700 in Western clothing is characterized by rapid change. The style of this era is known as Baroque. Following the end of the Thirty Years' War and the Restoration of England's Charles II, military influences in men's clothing were replaced by a brief period of decorative exuberance which then sobered into the coat, waistcoat and breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a half. In the normal cycle of fashion, the broad, high-waisted silhouette of the previous period was replaced by a long, lean line with a low waist for both men and women. This period also marked the rise of the periwig as an essential item of men's fashion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Serbian traditional clothing</span> Description of clothing style

Serbian traditional clothing, also called as Serbian national costume or Serbian dress, refers to the traditional clothing worn by Serbs living in Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, and the extended Serbian diaspora communities in Austria, Australia, Bulgaria, Canada, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, North Macedonia, Romania, Russia, Slovenia, United States, etc. Like any traditional dress of a nation or culture, it has been lost to the advent of urbanization, industrialization, and the growing market of international clothing trends. The wide range of regional folk costumes show influence from historical Austrian, Hungarian, German, Italian, and Ottoman Turkish presence. Nonetheless, the costumes are still a pinnacle part of Serbian folk culture. From the 19th century and onwards, Serbs have adopted western-styled clothing. This change has started in larger settlements such as cities and towns, although it was not uncommon to see rural women in traditional working costumes all the way until the end of 1970s. Today, these national costumes are only worn by some elderly in rural areas but are most often worn with connection to special events and celebrations, mostly at ethnic festivals, religious and national holidays, weddings, tourist attractions, and by dancing groups who dance the traditional Serbian kolo, or circle dance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1700–1750 in Western fashion</span> Clothing in Europe and areas under its influence from 1700-1750

Fashion in the period 1700–1750 in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by a widening silhouette for both men and women following the tall, narrow look of the 1680s and 90s. This era is defined as late Baroque/Rococo style. The new fashion trends introduced during this era had a greater impact on society, affecting not only royalty and aristocrats, but also middle and even lower classes. Clothing during this time can be characterized by soft pastels, light, airy, and asymmetrical designs, and playful styles. Wigs remained essential for men and women of substance, and were often white; natural hair was powdered to achieve the fashionable look. The costume of the eighteenth century, if lacking in the refinement and grace of earlier times, was distinctly quaint and picturesque.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1500–1550 in European fashion</span> Costume in the first half of the 16th century

Fashion in the period 1500–1550 in Europe is marked by very thick, big and voluminous clothing worn in an abundance of layers. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation became prominent. The tall, narrow lines of the late Medieval period were replaced with a wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders. Sleeves were a center of attention, and were puffed, slashed, cuffed, and turned back to reveal contrasting linings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Armenian dress</span> Armenian traditional clothing

The Armenian Taraz, also known as Armenian traditional clothing, reflects a rich cultural tradition. Wool and fur were utilized by the Armenians along with the cotton that was grown in the fertile valleys. During the Urartian period, silk imported from China was used by royalty. Later, the Armenians cultivated silkworms and produced their own silk.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1400–1500 in European fashion</span> Costume in the years 1400-1500

Fashion in 15th-century Europe was characterized by a surge of experimentation and regional variety, from the voluminous robes called houppelandes with their sweeping floor-length sleeves to the revealing giornea of Renaissance Italy. Hats, hoods, and other headdresses assumed increasing importance, and were draped, jeweled, and feathered.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1300–1400 in European fashion</span> Costumes in the period 1300–1400

Fashion in fourteenth-century Europe was marked by the beginning of a period of experimentation with different forms of clothing. Costume historian James Laver suggests that the mid-14th century marks the emergence of recognizable "fashion" in clothing, in which Fernand Braudel concurs. The draped garments and straight seams of previous centuries were replaced by curved seams and the beginnings of tailoring, which allowed clothing to more closely fit the human form. Also, the use of lacing and buttons allowed a more snug fit to clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing in the ancient world</span> What people wore in antiquity as inferred from archaeological and historical evidence

The preservation of fabric fibers and leathers allows for insights into the attire of ancient societies. The clothing used in the ancient world reflects the technologies that these peoples mastered. In many cultures, clothing indicated the social status of various members of society.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1200–1300 in European fashion</span> Costume in the years 1200-1300

Costume during the thirteenth century in Europe was relatively simple in its shapes, rich in colour for both men and women, and quite uniform across the Roman Catholic world as the Gothic style started its spread all over Europe in dress, architecture, and other arts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1100–1200 in European fashion</span> Clothing in the period 1100-1200

Twelfth century European fashion was simple in cut and differed only in details from the clothing of the preceding centuries, starting to become tighter and more similar for men and women as the century went on, which would continue in the 13th century. Men wore knee-length tunics for most activities, and men of the upper classes wore long tunics, with hose and mantle or cloaks. Women wore long tunics or gowns. A close fit to the body, full skirts, and long flaring sleeves were characteristic of upper-class fashion for both men and women.

The Medieval period in England is usually classified as the time between the fall of the Roman Empire to the beginning of the Renaissance, roughly the years AD 410–1485. For various peoples living in England, the Anglo-Saxons, Anglo-Danes, Normans and Britons, clothing in the medieval era differed widely for men and women as well as for different classes in the social hierarchy. The general styles of Early medieval European dress were shared in England. In the later part of the period, men's clothing changed much more rapidly than women's styles. Clothes were very expensive, and both men and women were divided into social classes by regulating the colors and styles that various ranks were permitted to wear. In the early Middle Ages, clothing was typically simple and, particularly in the case of lower-class peoples, served only basic utilitarian functions such as modesty and protection from the elements. As time went on the advent of more advanced textile techniques and increased international relations, clothing gradually got more and more intricate and elegant, even with those under the wealthy classes, up into the renaissance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1775–1795 in Western fashion</span> Western fashion throughout the late 1700s

Fashion in the twenty years between 1775 and 1795 in Western culture became simpler and less elaborate. These changes were a result of emerging modern ideals of selfhood, the declining fashionability of highly elaborate Rococo styles, and the widespread embrace of the rationalistic or "classical" ideals of Enlightenment philosophes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Egyptian cultural dress</span>

Egyptian cultural dress is the clothes, shoes, jewelry, and other items of fashion common to the Egyptian people and recognizable as particularly representative of Egyptian culture.

References

  1. "WebMuseum: The Italian Renaissance (1420–1600)". Ibiblio.org. 14 October 2002. Retrieved 21 October 2011.
  2. "History of the Renaissance". Historyworld.net. Retrieved 21 October 2011.
  3. Alvarez, Sandra (3 January 2015). "Move over Milan! Late Medieval and Renaissance Fashion in Venice".
  4. "Renaissance Fashion". Renaissance-spell.com. 9 May 2007. Retrieved 21 October 2011.
  5. "Renaissance Art". HISTORY. Retrieved 20 September 2018.
  6. 1 2 "The Renaissance in Italy". Mediaeval Misc (via the Internet Archive). Archived from the original on 11 May 2010. Retrieved 10 December 2016.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown (link)
  7. 1 2 "Italian Renaissance". Kostümwerkstatt Gandiva. Retrieved 10 December 2016.
  8. "What Was the Houppelande?". The New York Public Library. Retrieved 26 September 2018.
  9. "The Schio & Vincentino Open Air Museum of Industrial Archaeology". ERIH. Retrieved 26 March 2021.
  10. 1 2 3 4 5 Scarpellini, Emanuela (2019). Italian fashion since 1945 : a cultural history. Cham. ISBN   978-3-030-17812-3. OCLC   1114266349.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  11. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Merlo, Elisabetta; Polese, Francesca (2006). "Turning Fashion into Business: The Emergence of Milan as an International Fashion Hub". The Business History Review. 80 (3): 415–447. doi: 10.2307/25097225 . ISSN   0007-6805. JSTOR   25097225.
  12. "the birth of italian fashion". Gbgiorgini.it. Archived from the original on 16 October 2011. Retrieved 21 October 2011.
  13. Podolsky, Jeffrey (27 September 2014). "For CEOs and Pop Stars". www.barrons.com. Retrieved 26 March 2021.
  14. "Italian Fashion products". Designerhandbags101.com. Retrieved 21 October 2011.
  15. "Miu Miu". Net-a-porter.com. Retrieved 21 October 2011.
  16. "Diana, Princess of Wales: Magnificent Seven Di Lifestyle Sites". Londonnet.co.uk. Retrieved 21 October 2011.
  17. "The Global Language Monitor » Fashion". Languagemonitor.com. Archived from the original on 1 November 2009. Retrieved 21 October 2011.