Hatmaking

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Millinery Department at the Lion Store of Toledo, Ohio, 1900s Millinery Deaprtment, second floor, Summit St.; The Lion Store, Toledo, O. - DPLA - b299683c9a281410af279a3384bdb23a (page 1) (cropped).jpg
Millinery Department at the Lion Store of Toledo, Ohio, 1900s
The Millinery Shop by Edgar Degas Edgar Degas - The Millinery Shop - Google Art Project.jpg
The Millinery Shop by Edgar Degas

Hat-making or millinery is the design, manufacture and sale of hats and other headwear. [1] A person engaged in this trade is called a milliner or hatter.

Contents

Historically, milliners made and sold a range of accessories for clothing and hairstyles. [2] In France, milliners are known as marchand(e)s de modes (fashion merchants), rather than being specifically associated with hat-making. In Britain, however, milliners were known to specialise in hats by the beginning of the Victorian period. [3]

The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during the nineteenth century. [4] In 1889 in London and Paris, over 8,000 women were employed in millinery, and in 1900 in New York, some 83,000 people, mostly women, were employed in millinery. Though the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since hats began to be mass-manufactured and sold as ready-to-wear in department stores, the term "milliner" is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele.

Many prominent fashion designers, including Rose Bertin, Jeanne Lanvin, and Coco Chanel, began as milliners.

Origin

The term "milliner" or "Milener" originally meant someone from Milan, in northern Italy, in the early 16th century. It referred to Milanese merchants who sold fancy bonnets, gloves, jewellery and cutlery. In the 16th to 18th centuries, the meaning of "milliner" gradually changed in meaning from "a foreign merchant" to "a dealer in small articles relating to dress". Although the term originally applied to men, from 1713 "milliner" gradually came to mean a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other accessories for women. [5] [6]

Learning of millinery

Milliners work independently based on job order specifications or their designs, observing the regulations regarding work safety, health protection, environmental protection, and ensuring quality and efficiency. They combine their uniqueness, innovation, and technical skills and use different materials and auxiliary materials. In some cases, they plan and organize their schedules in cooperation with their customers' various needs. They also collaborate with the team or the apprentice to the presentation and sale of the products. [7]

The millinery industry's apprenticeship culture is commonly seen since the 18th century, while milliner was more like a stylist and created hats or bonnets to go with costumes and chose the laces, trims, and accessories to complete an ensemble piece. Millinery apprentices learned hat-making and styling, running the business, and skills to communicate with customers. [8] Nowadays, this apprenticeship is still a standard process for the students who freshly graduated from the millinery schools. Many well-known milliners experienced this stage. For example, Rose Bertin was an apprentice to a successful fashion merchant Mademoiselle Pagelle before her success.

There are many renowned millinery schools located in Europe, especially in London, Paris, and Italy. During COVID-19, many millinery courses were taught virtually. [9]

Special tools and materials used by milliners

A wooden hat block is an intricately carved wood form shaped by skillful woodworkers. Hat blocks are the tools of the trade for milliners in creating a unique hat crown shape. Some of the hat blocks are ensembles with crown and brimmed, while some are only with crown or brim or designed for fascinators. Milliners always have an extensive collection of different hat blocks because there are specific hat sizes and custom shapes for every hat block. In the blocking process of a hat, milliners used push pins and a hammer to hold the adjustable string along the crown's collar and the brim's edge. [10]

A floral-making iron is a unique iron used by milliners to create different floral petals or leaves as the ornament for hat decoration. In the past, candles were used to heat these irons with various shapes of metal in one set. Nowadays, these irons are electric. A ball-shaped metal heading is commonly used for the curve of floral pastels. [11]

Milliners often use buckram, a stiff cotton (occasionally linen or horse hair) cloth with a loose weave. Millinery buckram is impregnated with a starch which allows it to be softened in water, pulled over a hat block, and left to dry into a hard shape. [12] Millinery buckram comes in many weights, including lightweight or baby buckram (often used for children's and dolls' hats), [13] single-ply buckram, and double buckram (also known as theatrical buckram or crown buckram). [14]

Notable hatters and milliners

This is a partial list of people who have had a significant influence on hat-making and millinery.

Hatters

Milliners

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Philip Treacy</span> Irish-born haute couture milliner

Philip Anthony Treacy is an Irish haute couture milliner, or hat designer, who has been mostly based in London for his career, and who was described by Vogue magazine as "perhaps the greatest living milliner". In 2000, Treacy became the first milliner in eighty years to be invited to exhibit at the Paris haute couture fashion shows. He has won British Accessory Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards five times, and has received public honours in both Britain and Ireland. His designs have been displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Buckram</span> A stiff cloth

Buckram is a stiff cotton cloth with a plain, usually loose, weave, produced in various weights similar to muslin and other plain weave fabrics. For buckram, the fabric is soaked in a sizing agent such as wheat-starch paste, glue, or pyroxylin, then dried. When rewetted or warmed, it can be shaped to create durable firm fabric for book covers, hats, and elements of clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lilly Daché</span> French-born American fashion designer (1892 – 1989)

Lilly Daché was a French-born American milliner and fashion merchandiser. She started her career in a small bonnet shop, advanced to being a sales lady at Macy's department store, and from there started her own hat business. She was at the peak of her business career in the 1930s and 1940s. Her contributions to millinery were well-known custom-designed fashion hats for wealthy women, celebrities, socialites, and movie stars. Her hats cost about ten times the average cost of a lady's hat. Her main hat business was in New York City with branches in Paris. Later in her career she expanded her fashion line to include dresses, perfume, and jewelry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hat</span> Shaped head covering, having a brim and a crown, or one of these

A hat is a head covering which is worn for various reasons, including protection against weather conditions, ceremonial reasons such as university graduation, religious reasons, safety, or as a fashion accessory. Hats which incorporate mechanical features, such as visors, spikes, flaps, braces or beer holders shade into the broader category of headgear.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bonnet (headgear)</span> Large semicircular head covering framing the face; alternatively, a brimless hat or cap

Bonnet has been used as the name for a wide variety of headgear for females-from the Middle Ages to the present. As with "hat" and "cap", it is impossible to generalize as to the styles for which the word has been used, but there is for both sexes a tendency to use the word for styles in soft material and lacking a brim, or at least one all the way round, rather than just at the front. Yet the term has also been used, for example, for steel helmets. This was from Scotland, where the term has long been especially popular.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fascinator</span> Elaborate ornamental headpiece

A fascinator is a formal headpiece, a style of millinery. Since the 1990s, the term has referred to a type of formal headwear worn as an alternative to the hat; it is usually a large decorative design attached to a band or clip. In contrast to a hat, its function is purely ornamental: it covers very little of the head and offers little or no protection from the weather. An intermediate form, incorporating a more substantial base to resemble a hat, is sometimes called a hatinator.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cloche hat</span> Close-fitting hats with a bell-shaped crown

The cloche hat or simply cloche is a fitted, bell-shaped hat for women that was invented in 1908 by milliner Caroline Reboux. They were especially popular from about 1922 to 1933. Its name is derived from cloche, the French word for "bell".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Caroline Reboux</span> French milliner and fashion designer (1840 - 1927)

Caroline Reboux was a Parisian milliner and French fashion designer. She opened her first boutique at 23 rue de la paix in Paris in 1865, which she continued to operate throughout her life. Reboux opened other shops in Paris and London starting in 1870. She trained other milliners who became famous in their own right, including American milliner Lilly Daché and French milliner Rose Valois. Reboux's most famous shop was located at 9 Avenue Matignon in Paris, which carried on operating after her death for almost three decades under the direction of Lucienne Rabaté known as "Mademoiselle Lucienne" the most famous parisian milliner at that time.

Prudence Millinery designs and makes couture hats for major designers all over the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stephen Jones (milliner)</span> British milliner

Stephen Jones OBE is a British milliner based in London, who is considered one of the most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. He is also one of the most prolific, having created hats for the catwalk shows of many leading couturiers and fashion designers, such as John Galliano at Dior and Vivienne Westwood. His work is known for its inventiveness and high level of technical expertise. Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats: An Anthology for the Victoria and Albert Museum.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Boyd (milliner)</span> Scottish milliner (1925–2018)

John Richardson Boyd MBE was a Scottish milliner based in London. Designing hats for over seventy-five years, Boyd was one of London's most respected milliners and is known for his creations for Diana, Princess of Wales and Anne, Princess Royal. Boyd was a milliner to three generations of Diana's family – Diana, her mother Frances Shand Kydd and grandmother Ruth Roche, Baroness Fermoy – and had remained at the centre of his craft adding another generation of royals with Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge. Boyd had one of the longest millinery careers in the world whilst continuing to practise his art before his death in 2018. Boyd’s label continues with his protégé and senior milliner Sarah Marshall.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Halo hat</span> Style of hat

A halo hat is a millinery design in which the headgear acts as a circular frame for the face, creating a halo effect. The design is said to date back to the late 19th century, when it was known as the aureole hat; this name is sometimes still used. It may also be known as the angel hat or bambini – the latter said to derive from Italian for terracotta plaques depicting the infant Christ.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Claude Saint-Cyr</span> French milliner (1911–2002)

For the French general and diplomat, see Claude Carra Saint-Cyr

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Doll hat</span>

A doll hat is a women's millinery design scaled down to suggest a hat that could be worn by a doll. It can be of any design and is generally worn at the front of the head. The hat is usually held in place with a band of fabric or elastic secured at the back of the head.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Peach basket hat</span>

A peach basket hat is a millinery design that resembles an upturned country basket of the style typically used to collect fruit. Generally it is made of straw or similar material and it often has a trimming of flowers and ribbons. Some models may also feature a veil or draped fabric covering. It was introduced in around 1908 and caused some controversy over the succeeding year due to its extreme dimensions and decorations. It had revivals – designs were at this stage more modest – in the 1930s and 1950s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bumper brim</span>

A bumper brim is a millinery feature in which the hat brim is tubular in design, making it a prominent feature of the hat. In order to achieve this effect, the brim may be rolled, stiffened or padded. A bumper brim can be added to a variety of hat designs, from small to large.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Coal scuttle bonnet</span> Womans bonnet with a stiffened brim and flat back

A coal scuttle bonnet is a design of bonnet with stiffened brim and a flat back (crown). The name originates from its similarity to the shape of a traditional coal storer. It may be very similar in design to the poke bonnet – some sources use the terms interchangeably – however the poke shape had a wide and rounded front brim that extended beyond the face, according to fashion historian Mary Brooks Picken, while the Metropolitan Museum of Art notes that the poke generally shielded the face and had a wide brim that provided a large surface for decoration.

Adolfo Faustino Sardiña, professionally known as Adolfo, was a Cuban-born American fashion designer who started out as a milliner in the 1950s. While chief designer for the wholesale milliners Emme, he won the Coty Award and the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award. In 1963 he set up his own salon in New York, firstly as a milliner, and then focusing on clothing. He retired from fashion design in 1993.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Velma Owusu-Bempah</span> Ghanaian milliner

Velma Owusu-Bempah is a milliner, accessories designer and fashion instructor from Ghana. She is the Creative director of her self-named fashion brand, Velma's Millinery and Accessories, and the principal of Velma's Millinery Academy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vanilla Beane</span> American milliner (1919–2022)

Vanilla Powell Beane, known as "DC's Hat Lady", was an American milliner and businesswoman. One of her hats was displayed and is in the collection of the National Museum of African American History and Culture (NMAAHC). Washington, D.C. observes Vanilla Beane Day on September 13.

References

  1. Perry, Lorinda (November 1916). "Millinery as a Trade for Women". Monthly Review of the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. 3 (5): 32–38. JSTOR   41823177.
  2. "milliner" . Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.). Oxford University Press.(Subscription or participating institution membership required.) - "2. Originally: a seller of fancy wares, accessories, and articles of (female) apparel, esp. such as were originally made in Milan. Subsequently: spec. a person who designs, makes, or sells women's hats."
  3. Adburgham, Alison (1989). Shops and shopping: 1800 - 1914 ; where, and in what manner the well-dressed Englishwoman bought her clothes (2nd ed.). London: Barrie & Jenkins. p. 27. ISBN   978-0-7126-2114-4.
  4. "Straw Millinery". If I Had My Own Blue Box. 26 March 2009. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  5. "milliner, Origin and meaning of milliner by Online Etymology Dictionary". etymonline.com. Retrieved 22 October 2020. The original milliners were men; by 1713 the word was being used of 'a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other headgear for women,' and this was the prevailing sense of the word 19c.
  6. Tréguer, Pascal (12 August 2016). "The word 'milliner' originally meant 'native or inhabitant of Milan'". word histories. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  7. "Milliner". American Institute for Innovative Apprenticeship. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  8. "Vintage Fashion Guild : Fashion History : History of Hats For Women". vintagefashionguild.org. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  9. "Upcoming Events – Millinery CoursesMillinery Courses". Millinery Courses. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  10. "The Blocker Shapes and Styles the Hats – Brent Black Panama Hats". brentblack.com. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  11. "flower making iron". PresentPerfect Creations | Original hand crafted flower accessories in fine fabrics and genuine leather. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  12. Hart, Eric (2013). The Prop Building Guidebook: For Theatre, Film, and TV. Taylor & Francis. p. 292. ISBN   9780240821382.
  13. "The Copyist". The Illustrated Milliner. 14 (7). The Illustrated Milliner Company: 68. July 1913. Retrieved 8 October 2019.
  14. McMasters, Lynn (1 November 2005). "Buckram 101". Finery. Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild. Retrieved 8 October 2019.
  15. Bowler hat makes a comeback Telegraph (London). Retrieved 9 June 2012
  16. The City Visible | The Hatters NYT (New York). Retrieved 4 August 2023
  17. Tobias, Maricris Jan. "GAMABA: Teofilo Garcia". National Commission for Culture and the Arts. Archived from the original on 26 January 2022. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
  18. Reynolds, William and Rich Rand (1995) The Cowboy Hat book. p. 8 ISBN   0-87905-656-8
  19. "Akio Hirata – Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD". The FMD – FashionModelDirectory.com. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
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  21. Steele, Valerie (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion. Berg. pp. 72–73. ISBN   978-1847885920 . Retrieved 9 June 2012.
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  27. Cartner-Morley, Jess (16 April 2002). "Who wants to be a milliner". The Guardian . He has created hats to accompany the catwalk collections of Alexander McQueen and Valentino, has been named British Accessory Designer of the Year five times, and was the first milliner in 80 years to be invited by French fashion's governing body, the Chambre Syndicale, to take part in the Parisian haute couture shows