 | This article possibly contains original research .(March 2018) |
Queer fashion is fashion among queer and nonbinary people that goes beyond common style conventions that usually associate certain colors and shapes with one of the two binary genders. Queer fashion aims to be perceived by consumers as a fashion style that focuses on experimenting garments based on people's different body shapes instead of following the restrictions given by gendered clothing categorization.
Queer style is the expression of an identity that does not conform to typical cultural and societal norms of gender through the expression of fashion, typically through the combination of (though not always) clothing and accessories originally designed for men and/or women. Though the impetus behind expressing a queer or nonbinary identity through fashion is typically only the desire for self-expression, it may be seen as a political act in the society and culture in which the queer person exists. [1]
The differentiation between gender norms through clothing came into more prominence and importance during the 19th century, mainly through the use of different fabrics, trims and constructions for different genders.[ clarification needed ] [2] These distinctions were meant to mirror gender roles in society as masculine clothing aimed to be practical while female fashion was perceived as purely aesthetic. [2] Despite the entrenchment of links between fashion and gender identity, gender expression today is recognized by the LGBTQ community as a very personal and subjective behaviour; Queer style is therefore intrinsically tied to identity, and as such, includes a vast range of aesthetics. [3] This expression of gender through fashion is seen as a fundamental aspect of both self-realisation and presentation, with changes in clothing often playing a key role in this realisation. [4] [5]
However, the presentation of a nonbinary or queer identity through fashion often presents problems in societies wherein clothing is produced in a heavily gendered way, which often in turn reflect that society's interpretation of gender identity, meaning that the expression of a Queer identity is often politicised and restricted. In an article featuring gender non-conforming writer and performance artist Alok Vaid-Menon, [6] Vaid-Menon posited that fashion represented the inherent politics of a person, with queer and transgender people, whose existence is often politicised, being especially aware of this, particularly for people assigned male at birth, for whom the act of presenting femininely, through wearing dresses and makeup, is likely to attract unwanted attention. [6]
There's a material consequence to me presenting feminine, and there's not a material consequence to me presenting masculine, the minute I wear lipstick, or the minute I put on earrings, or the minute I'm wearing a skirt, my entire reality shifts. [6]
The heightened aspect of risk for nonbinary people assigned male at birth presenting their identity through fashion was emphasized in 2017 study from Davidson Skylar, showing that non-binary people assigned male at birth encountered more negative employment outcomes than non-binary people who were assigned female at birth, [7] a phenomenon considered to be an aspect of transmisogyny. [8]
Most mainstream stores separate man and women clothing in different sections, making it difficult for Queer people to find clothes that fit. Queer designers are trying to build a bridge between menswear and womenswear by meeting the clothing needs of all identities. For example, the clothing brand NO SESSO specializes in using different prints, fabric and reconstructed materials to dress various body types and gender identities. [9]
Sharpe Suiting is a fashion line that through a Kickstarter campaign was able to manufacture custom-constructed dresswear and a ready-to-wear line for a niche of masculine and androgynous people. [10] Its innovative feature consists in developing a system of measuring and tailoring techniques that minimize female curves of people who don't identify as women. This method is called andropometrics and is an androgynous alternative to the standard anthropometrics method used by most manufacturers. [11]
Maternity lines often include stereotypically feminine elements both in shapes and patterns, as motherhood and femininity are commonly considered to be matching. An alternative was offered by the startup company butchbaby & co, the first wear line for pregnant Queer individuals. [12] [13]
Non-conforming fashion styles are gaining acceptance by a larger audience; for this reason, brands such as Zara and H&M are trying to offer unisex clothing lines to consumers by launching gender neutral collections. [14]
These collections are represented by female or male models only. [15] Also, these unisex products display an aesthetic typically considered masculine, both in shapes and colours (grey, beige and brown). [16]
Queer fashion is being increasingly recognized by designers who are now showcasing it on their runaways. For example, during Moschino's Fall 2018 menswear and women's Pre-Fall show, Jeremy Scott presented a gender non-conforming look modelled by nonbinary model Oslo Grace and queer drag queen Violet Chachki. [17] In Violet Chachki's words: "It's very important to have visual representation, to show that Queers are important, Queers are powerful, Queers are beautiful, Queers are valid, and you can't erase us".
Moreover, modeling agencies are starting to scout non-binary models. [18] This is the case of My Friend Ned; a South African agency that officially divides its models in male, female and non-binary sections.
Overall, queer representation in the high fashion world appears to be growing and to be increasingly acknowledged by the media. Examples of queer/non-binary models are Casey Legler, labelled as the world's first "female male model", Elliott Sailors, Rain Dove, Stas Fedyanin and Erika Linder. [19]
Pronoun pins and pins with queer flags on them are a common staple of late 2010s [20] and early 2020s [21] queer fashion. After a lawsuit with the ACLU, Alaska Airlines became the first US airline to include pronoun pins in their workplace uniforms in April 2022. [22]
Femme is a term traditionally used to describe a lesbian woman who exhibits a feminine identity or gender presentation. While commonly viewed as a lesbian term, alternate meanings of the word also exist with some non-lesbian individuals using the word, notably some gay men and bisexuals. Some non-binary and transgender individuals also identify as lesbians using this term.
Non-binary and genderqueer are umbrella terms for gender identities that are outside the male/female gender binary. Non-binary identities often fall under the transgender umbrella since non-binary people typically identify with a gender that is different from the sex assigned to them at birth, although some non-binary people do not consider themselves transgender.
Gender expression, or gender presentation, is a person's behavior, mannerisms, and appearance that are socially associated with gender, namely femininity or masculinity. Gender expression can also be defined as the external manifestation of one's gender identity through behavior, clothing, hairstyles, voice, or body characteristics. Typically, a person's gender expression is thought of in terms of masculinity and femininity, but an individual's gender expression may incorporate both feminine and masculine traits, or neither. A person's gender expression may or may not match their assigned sex at birth. This includes gender roles, and accordingly relies on cultural stereotypes about gender. It is distinct from gender identity.
A gender bender is a person who dresses up and presents themselves in a way that defies societal expectations of their gender, especially as the opposite sex. Bending expected gender roles may also be called a genderfuck.
The gender binary is the classification of gender into two distinct forms of masculine and feminine, whether by social system, cultural belief, or both simultaneously. Most cultures use a gender binary, having two genders.
Gender nonconformity or gender variance is behavior or gender expression by an individual that does not match masculine or feminine gender norms. A gender-nonconforming person may be variant in their gender identity, being transgender or non-binary, or they may be cisgender. In the case of transgender people, they may be perceived, or perceive themselves as, gender-nonconforming before transitioning, but might not be perceived as such after transitioning. Transgender adults who appear gender-nonconforming after transition are more likely to experience discrimination.
LGBT linguistics is the study of language as used by members of LGBTQ communities. Related or synonymous terms include lavender linguistics, advanced by William Leap in the 1990s, which "encompass[es] a wide range of everyday language practices" in LGBT communities, and queer linguistics, which refers to the linguistic analysis concerning the effect of heteronormativity on expressing sexual identity through language. The former term derives from the longtime association of the color lavender with LGBT communities. "Language", in this context, may refer to any aspect of spoken or written linguistic practices, including speech patterns and pronunciation, use of certain vocabulary, and, in a few cases, an elaborate alternative lexicon such as Polari.
Androgyny is the possession of both masculine and feminine characteristics. Androgyny may be expressed with regard to biological sex, gender identity, or gender expression.
Feminist language reform has proposed gender neutrality in languages with grammatical gender, such as Spanish. Grammatical gender in Spanish refers to how Spanish nouns are categorized as either masculine or feminine. As in other Romance languages—such as Portuguese, to which Spanish is very similar—a group of both men and women, or someone of unknown gender, is usually referred to by the masculine form of a noun and/or pronoun. Advocates of gender-neutral language modification consider this to be sexist, and exclusive of gender non-conforming people. They also stress the underlying sexism of words whose feminine form has a different, often less prestigious meaning. Some argue that a gender neutral Spanish can reduce gender stereotyping, deconstructing sexist gender roles and discrimination in the workplace.
Gender policing is the imposition or enforcement of normative gender expressions on an individual who is perceived as not adequately performing, through appearance or behavior, their gender or sex that was assigned to them at birth. According to Judith Butler, rejection of individuals who are non-normatively gendered is a component of creating one's own gender identity.
Discrimination against non-binary people, people who do not identify exclusively as male or female, may occur in social, legal, or medical contexts.
Alok Vaid-Menon is an American writer, performance artist, and media personality. Vaid-Menon is gender non-conforming and transfeminine, and uses the singular they third person pronouns.
Cory Wade Hindorff is an American model, actor, singer, songwriter and LGBTQ activist and spokesperson. He is best known for being the last eliminated on the 20th cycle of America's Next Top Model, and being the first openly gay male participant in the show.
Rain Dove Dubilewski is an American model, actor, and activist, best known for their work in fashion as a gender-nonconforming model, posing alternately as male and female in photoshoots, productions, and runway shows. Dove was voted as SheWired's Most Eligible Bachelorette in 2014 and named one of Elle Magazine's 12 Women Who Are Redefining Beauty in 2015.
Androgynous fashion is a combination of feminine and masculine characteristics. Social standards typically restrict people's dress according to gender. Trousers were traditionally a male form of dress, frowned upon for women. However, during the 1800s, female spies were introduced, and Vivandières wore a certain uniform with a dress over trousers. Women activists during that time would also decide to wear trousers; for example, Luisa Capetillo, a women's rights activist and the first woman in Puerto Rico to wear trousers in public.
Sharpe Suiting is an American designer, producer and manufacturer of garments based in Los Angeles, California. The company was founded in 2013, in Los Angeles, by Leon Elias Wu, who is the current CEO of the company. Sharpe suiting is a public-benefit corporation recognized for gender neutral clothing and genderqueer fashion.
Non-binary or genderqueer is a spectrum of gender identities that are not exclusively masculine or feminine—identities that are outside the gender binary. Non-binary identities can fall under the transgender umbrella, since many non-binary people identify with a gender that is different from their assigned sex. Another term for non-binary is enby. This page examines non-binary characters in fictional works as a whole, focusing on characters and tropes in cinema and fantasy.
