Penrhyn Castle

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Penrhyn Castle
Sunset on Penrhyn Castle. (14500044677).jpg
Penrhyn Castle - the keep to the right, the main block in the centre and the service wing to the left
TypeCountry house
Location Llandygai, Bangor, Wales
Coordinates 53°13′33″N4°05′41″W / 53.2259°N 4.0946°W / 53.2259; -4.0946
Architect Thomas Hopper
Owner National Trust
Website Official website
Listed Building – Grade I
Official namePenrhyn Castle
Designated3 March 1966
Reference no.3659
Official namePenrhyn Park
Designated3 March 1966
Reference no.PGW(Gd)40(GWY)
Listed Building – Grade II*
Official nameGrand Lodge and forecourt walling
Designated3 March 1966
Reference no.3661
Listed Building – Grade II
Official nameWalls and attached structures to terraced flower garden
Designated11 March 1981
Reference no.3 March 1966
Listed Building – Grade II
Official nameKitchen garden wall and attached outbuildings
Designated24 May 2000
Reference no.23375
Gwynedd UK relief location map.jpg
Red pog.svg
Location of Penrhyn Castle in Gwynedd

Penrhyn Castle (Welsh : Castell Penrhyn) is a country house in Llandygai, Bangor, Gwynedd, North Wales, constructed in the style of a Norman castle. The Penrhyn estate was founded by Ednyfed Fychan. In the 15th century his descendant Gwilym ap Griffith built a fortified manor house on the site. In the 18th century, the Penrhyn estate came into the possession of Richard Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn, in part from his father, a Liverpool merchant, and in part from his wife, Ann Susannah Pennant née Warburton, the daughter of an army officer. Pennant derived great wealth from his ownership of slave plantations in the West Indies and was a strong opponent of attempts to abolish the slave trade. His wealth was used in part for the development of the slate mining industry on Pennant's Caernarfonshire estates, and also for development of Penrhyn Castle. In the 1780s Pennant commissioned Samuel Wyatt to undertake a reconstruction of the medieval house.

Contents

On Pennant's death in 1808, the Penrhyn estate was inherited by his second cousin, George Hay Dawkins, who adopted the surname Dawkins-Pennant. From 1822 to 1837 Dawkins-Pennant engaged the architect Thomas Hopper who rebuilt the house in the form of a Neo-Norman castle. Dawkins-Pennant, who sat as Member of Parliament for Newark and New Romney, followed his cousin as a long-standing opponent of emancipation, serving on the West India Committee, a group of parliamentarians opposed to the abolition of slavery, on which Richard Pennant had served as chairman. Dawkins-Pennant received significant compensation when, in 1833, emancipation of slaves in the British Empire was eventually achieved, through the passing of the Slavery Abolition Act.

In 1840, the Penrhyn estate passed to Edward Gordon Douglas, through his marriage to Dawkins-Pennant's elder daughter, Juliana. Douglas, who assumed the name Douglas-Pennant, was elevated to the peerage as 1st Baron Penrhyn of the second creation in 1866. He, and his son and heir, George Douglas-Pennant, 2nd Baron Penrhyn, continued the development of their slate interests at Penrhyn Quarry, and of the supporting infrastructure throughout North-West Wales. Firmly opposed to trade unionism at their quarries, their tenure saw bitter strikes over union recognition and workers' rights, culminating in the Great Strike of 1900–1903, the longest dispute in British industrial history. Little development took place at the castle, which was not the family's principal residence and was mainly used as a holiday home in the summer months, but the interior was enhanced by Edward Douglas-Pennant's creation of a major collection of paintings. These provided the setting for entertaining guests, who included Queen Victoria, her son the Prince of Wales and William Gladstone. The castle passed from the family to the National Trust via the National Land Fund in 1951.

Penrhyn Castle is a Grade I listed building, recognised as Thomas Hopper's finest work. Built in the Romanesque Revival style, it is considered one of the most important country houses in Wales and as among the best of the Revivalist castles in Britain. Its art collection, including works by Palma Vecchio and Canaletto is of international importance. In the 21st century, the National Trust's attempts to explore the links between their properties and colonialism and historic slavery have seen the castle feature in the ensuing culture wars.

History

Early owners

In the 15th century, the Penrhyn estate was the centre of a large landholding developed by Gwilym ap Griffith. The land had originally been granted to his ancestor Ednyfed Fychan, Seneschal to Llywelyn the Great. [1] Despite losing his lands temporarily during the Glyndŵr Rising, Gwilym regained them by 1406 and began the construction of a fortified manor house and adjoining chapel at Penrhyn, which became his family's main home. [1]

17th and 18th centuries

Richard Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn of the first creation Richard Pennant Thomson 1790s.jpg
Richard Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn of the first creation

The fortunes of the Pennant family were begun in the late-17th century by a former soldier, Gifford Pennant. Settling in Jamaica, he built up one of the largest estates on the island, eventually comprising four or five slave plantations for the cultivation of sugar cane. His son, Edward, rose to become Chief Justice of Jamaica and by the beginning of the late 18th century the family had accumulated sufficient funds to return to England, invest their profits in the development of their English and Welsh estates, and manage their West Indian properties as absentee landlords. [2]

Edward's grandson, Richard Pennant (1737–1808), acquired the Penrhyn estate in the 18th century, in part from his father, John Pennant, a Liverpool merchant, and in part from his wife, Ann Susannah Pennant, the only child of Hugh Warburton, an army officer. [3] Richard expended his sugar profits on the creation and subsequent development of his North Wales estate, centred on Penrhyn. Recognising the potential for the industrialisation of slate production, he greatly expanded the activities of his main slate mine, Penrhyn Quarry, and invested heavily in the development of the transportation infrastructure necessary for the export of his slate products. [4] A major road-building operation culminated in the creation of Port Penrhyn on the North Wales coast as the centre of his operations that saw the Bethesda quarries become the world's largest producer of slate by the early 19th century. [5] The profits from sugar and slate enabled Pennant to commission Samuel Wyatt to rebuild the medieval house as a "castellated Gothic" castle. [6]

Richard Pennant was elected Member of Parliament for Liverpool, and sat for the city until elevated to the Irish peerage as 1st Baron Penrhyn in 1783. Between 1780 and 1790 he made over thirty speeches defending the slave trade against abolitionist attacks, [7] and became so influential that he was made chairman of the West India Committee, an informal alliance of some 50 MPs dedicated to opposing abolition. [8]

19th and 20th centuries

George Hay Dawkins-Pennant George Hay Dawkins-Pennant Basebe 1841.jpg
George Hay Dawkins-Pennant

George Hay Dawkins-Pennant (1764–1840) inherited the Penrhyn Estate on Richard Pennant's death in 1808. [9] He continued the approach adopted by his second cousin: developing the Penrhyn Quarry; opposing the abolition of slavery; serving in Parliament; and building at Penrhyn. [10] Dawkins-Pennant's ambitions for his castle, however, far exceeded those of Richard Pennant for his: the building that Thomas Hopper created for him between 1820 and 1837 is one of the largest castles in Britain. [11] The cost of the construction of this vast house is uncertain, and difficult to quantify as many of the materials came from the family's own forests and quarries and much of the labour from their industrial workforce. Cadw's estimation suggests the castle cost the Pennant family around £150,000, equivalent to some £50m in current values. [12] [a]

The German aristocrat and traveller Hermann, Fürst von Pückler-Muskau recorded his visit to Penrhyn in his memoirs, Tour of a German Prince, published in 1831. [14] He noted the ingenious design of the bell pulls: "a pendulum is attached to each which continues to vibrate for ten minutes after the sound has ceased, to remind the sluggish of their duty." [14] He was even more impressed by the scale of Dawkins-Pennant's ambition; reflecting that castle building, which in the time of William the Conqueror could only be carried out by "mighty" kings, was by the early 19th century, "executed, as a plaything, — only with increased size, magnificence and expense, — by a simple country-gentleman, whose father very likely sold cheeses." [15]

Edward Douglas-Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn of the second creation Eden Upton Eddis (1812-1901) - Edward Gordon Douglas-Pennant (1800-1886), 1st Lord Penrhyn of Llandegai - 1421758 - National Trust.jpg
Edward Douglas-Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn of the second creation

The elder of Dawkins-Pennant's two daughters, Juliana, married an aristocratic Grenadier Guardsman, Edward Gordon Douglas (1800–1886), who, on inheriting the estate in 1840, adopted the hyphenated surname of Douglas-Pennant. Edward, the grandson of the 14th Earl of Morton, was created the 1st Baron Penrhyn (second creation) in the Peerage of the United Kingdom in 1866. In accordance with his father-in-law's wishes, he assembled a major collection of pictures for the castle. He was succeeded by his son, George Douglas-Pennant, 2nd Baron Penrhyn, in 1886. [16] He was, in turn, succeeded by his son, Edward Douglas-Pennant, 3rd Baron Penrhyn, who lost his eldest son, and two half-brothers, as casualties in World War I. [17]

Hugh Douglas-Pennant, 4th Baron Penrhyn, who inherited the title and estates in 1927, died in June 1949, when the castle and estate passed to his niece, Lady Janet Pelham, who, following family tradition, adopted the surname of Douglas-Pennant. In 1951, the castle and 40,000 acres (160 km2) of land were accepted by the Treasury in lieu of death duties, and ownership was transferred to the National Trust. [18]

21st century

The National Trust has held custodianship of Penrhyn Castle since its transfer by the government in 1951. It has worked to conserve the house and its setting, and to develop its attraction to visitors. In 2019/2020 Penrhyn received 139,614 such visitors, an increase over the two previous years (118,833 and 109,395). [19] [20] In the 21st century, the Trust has sought to develop its understanding and coverage of the links between the house and colonialism and slavery (see below). [21] [22] [23] The Trust's 2022 Penrhyn Castle website records: "we are accelerating plans to reinterpret the stories of the painful and challenging histories attached to Penrhyn Castle. This will take time as we want to ensure that changes we make are sustained and underpinned by high quality research." [24] [b] A large collection of Douglas-Pennant family papers is held by Bangor University and was catalogued between 2015 and 2017. [26]

Slavery and slate

Slavery

If they passed the vote of abolition they actually struck at seventy millions of property, they ruined the colonies, and by destroying an essential nursery of seamen, gave up the dominion of the sea at a single glance

– Richard Pennant speaking in the House of Commons in 1789 [2] [c]

For much of the 20th century, conservation bodies such as the Trust largely ignored the issues of slavery and colonialism in relation to their properties. [28] This position began to change at the very end of the century. In 1995, Alaistair Hennesey published a pioneering article on Penrhyn and slavery in History Today. Of Penrhyn, Hennesey wrote, "there is no building which illustrates so graphically the role which slave plantation profits played in the growth of British economic power." [29] In 2009 the Trust organised a symposium, Slavery and the British Country House, in conjunction with English Heritage and the University of the West of England, which was held at the London School of Economics. At the conference Nicholas Draper (inaugural director of the Centre for the Study of the Legacies of British Slavery), [30] discussed the records of the Slave Compensation Commission and their value as a research tool for exploring links between the slave trade and the country house. [31]

The slave ship Lady Penrhyn Lady Penrhyn (sailing ship).jpg
The slave ship Lady Penrhyn

In 2020, the Trust published its Interim Report on the Connections between Colonialism and Properties now in the Care of the National Trust, Including Links with Historic Slavery. [32] The appendix to the report recorded that George Hay Dawkins-Pennant was compensated under the Slavery Abolition Act 1833 for being deprived of 764 slaves, being paid £14,683 17s 2d. [33] The report itself provoked a strong reaction. The Common Sense Group of Conservative MPs challenged the Trust's priorities; [34] writing in a joint letter to The Daily Telegraph , "History must neither be sanitised nor rewritten to suit 'snowflake' preoccupations. A clique of powerful, privileged liberals must not be allowed to rewrite our history in their image." [35] The columnist Charles Moore decried the report and stimulated criticism across a range of British media outlets. [36] [37] [38] A complaint against the Trust's report was lodged with the Charity Commission. [39] [d]

Olivette Otele, Professor of Colonial History and the Memory of Slavery at the University of Bristol, explored the dominant narrative presented at Penrhyn after a visit in 2016. She examined the prevalent history of the Pennants as social, industrial and agrarian improvers and noted the absence of discussion of the slave-owning origins of their wealth. [41] In 2020, the naming of a road in Barry as Ffordd Penrhyn provoked protests over the perceived links with Penrhyn Castle, "the capital of slavery in Wales." [42] [43] [e]

Although it had already begun consideration of the links between its properties and the British colonial heritage, the murder of George Floyd and subsequent Black Lives Matter demonstrations, including the toppling of the statue of Edward Colston, led the Trust to acknowledge that these protests had given their efforts a greater impetus. Writing at the time of the interim report's publication, Dr Katie Donnington wrote of the Trust's approach, "Is it scones and tea and a bit of Jane Austen-type fantasy? Does it do critical social history? Or is it a place of escapism where there is a resistance to being confronted with the unsettling realities of empire, race and slavery?" [44]

Exhibitions

The castle has held several exhibitions that highlight its connections with slavery and colonialism. In 2007, coinciding with the bicentenary of the abolition of the Slave Trade Act, staff at Penrhyn Castle developed an exhibition, Sugar and Slavery - The Penrhyn Connection, funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund. [45] The exhibition included contributions from children in Jamaica, England, and Wales, and from local interest groups. It was accompanied by programming in the form of study days, art sessions, and community outreach. The exhibition remained on display after 2007; however, by 2014, it had been shrunk to a small space off the main visitor route.[ citation needed ]  

In 2018, an art piece by Manon Steffan Ros, 12 Stori, was installed, which touched on the Pennants’ enslavement of African people. According to the Trust's researcher Eleanor Harding, over the six months it was displayed, the Penrhyn staff and volunteer team felt insufficiently confident and knowledgeable to present this history sensitively and appropriately. [46] In 2019, there were two items on display in the castle that explicitly represented the Pennants’ Jamaican plantations: a pair of paintings presenting idealised scenic views of their “Pennants” and “Denbigh” estates, painted by a J.C.S. in 1871. The image depicted in “Denbigh” features sugarcane and shows a sugar processing factory in the background, with figures labouring in the fields in front. Harding states that "...the inconspicuous position of these paintings in the castle, with no written interpretation to attract a visitor’s attention, [suggests] that most people [did] not notice them", and that many visitors in 2019 left the castle without gaining an understanding of Penrhyn's historical ties to slavery, according to an evaluation of the experience through on-site interviews of visitors. [46]

In 2020, a castle-wide exhibition called Beth yn y Byd/What a World: A Creative Look at Penrhyn’s Culture of Colonialism was installed. The exhibition team intended that, by displaying poetry alongside highlighted objects, visitors would be encouraged to look closely and consider a different way of understanding items that they would previously have considered only as a contribution to the overwhelming whole of Penrhyn’s decorative schemes. Per Harding of the National Trust, the aim of the exhibit was to place at the forefront "the crucial role of empathy and emotion" in the audience’s engagement with this history and to present openly the subjectivity of individual responses to it. [47] [48]

Slate

I decline altogether to sanction the interference of anybody (corporate or individual) between employer and employed in the working of the quarry

Lord Penrhyn revoking the recognition agreement with the North Wales Quarrymen's Union that led to the Great Strike of 1900 [49]

The Great Strike of 1900–1903 at the Penrhyn Quarry was the longest labour dispute in British history, [50] and left a legacy of lasting bitterness. [51] Its origins lay in earlier instances of industrial unrest relating to the refusal of Lord Penrhyn and his agent to recognise the North Wales Quarrymen's Union. [52] In 2018 local Plaid Cymru councillors accused the Trust of failing to fully recognise the contribution of slate workers to the castle's history. [53]

The 120th anniversary of the strike saw the opening of a commemorative trail, Slate and Strikes in Bethesda. The BBC reported that some inhabitants of the town still declined to visit Penrhyn Castle and resentment against the Douglas-Pennants remained into the 21st-century. [54] [55]

Art collection

Adam Pynacker - Landscape with an Arched Gateway Adam Pynacker - Landscape with an Arched Gateway NTI PNC 4.jpg
Adam Pynacker - Landscape with an Arched Gateway

Penrhyn Castle houses one of the finest art collections in Wales, with works by Canaletto, [56] Richard Wilson, [57] Carl Haag, [58] Perino del Vaga, [59] and Bonifazio Veronese. [60] The collection formerly included a Rembrandt, Catrina Hooghsaet . In 2007 the painting was put up for sale. The Dutch Culture Ministry tried to buy it for Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum in 2007, but could not meet the £40m asking price. The painting was subsequently sold to an overseas collector after the lifting of an export ban. [61] In 2016 it was placed on loan to the National Museum Wales for a period of three years. [62]

The collection was almost entirely the work of Edward Douglas-Pennant, who began collecting paintings in the middle of the 19th century; the collection was catalogued by his granddaughter, Alice Douglas-Pennant. His interests were predominantly Dutch landscapes, Spanish pictures and Italian sacra conversazione . [63] During World War II a large number of pictures from the National Gallery were stored at the castle to avoid the Blitz. [64] [f]

Ownership of the art collection at Penrhyn remained with the Douglas-Pennant family after the castle passed into the ownership of the Trust. Elements have passed directly to the Trust over the following seventy years as the family have ceded ownership in lieu of inheritance tax. [65] Ten paintings were transferred in this way in 2008. [66] In 2016 some forty further works were accepted by the Welsh Government and now form part of the permanent collection. [67]

Architecture and description

Overview and architectural style

The donjon modelled on the keep at Hedingham Castle in Essex Castell Penrhyn (48394993957).jpg
The donjon modelled on the keep at Hedingham Castle in Essex

Penrhyn is among the most admired of the numerous mock castles built in the United Kingdom in the 19th century; [68] Christopher Hussey called it, "the outstanding instance of Norman revival." [69] The castle is a picturesque composition that stretches over 450 ft (137 m) from a tall donjon, or keep, containing the family rooms, through the main block built around the earlier house, to the service wing and the stables. Simon Jenkins draws comparisons with Windsor, Arundel and Eastnor. [4] Haslam, Orbach and Voelcker, in their 2009 volume Gwynedd in the Pevsner Buildings of Wales series, describe it as "one of the most enormous houses in Britain" and note its "wholeheartedly Romanesque" style. [11] Coflein records that Hopper and Dawkins-Pennant selected the Neo-Norman, or Romanesque Revival style, as opposed to the increasing fashionable Gothic Revival. [70] Pevsner describes the castle as "a serious work of architecture", noting the "dauntingly fine masonry" construction. [11]

Hopper designed all the principal interiors in a rich but restrained Norman style, with much fine plasterwork and wood and stone carving. [71] The castle also has some specially designed Norman-style furniture, including a one-ton slate bed made for Queen Victoria when she visited in 1859. [g] The diarist Charles Greville recorded his impressions after a visit in 1841: "a vast pile of a building, and certainly very grand, but altogether, though there are some fine things and some good rooms in the house, the most gloomy place I ever saw, and I would not live there if they made me a present of the castle". [73] Some modern critics have been similarly unimpressed; in his study The Architecture of Wales: From the First to the Twenty-First Centuries, John B. Hilling describes the castle as "nightmarishly oppressive, a most uninviting place to live". [74]

Thomas Hopper (1776–1856) made his reputation as architect to the Prince Regent for whom Hopper designed a conservatory in the Gothic style at Carlton House. He was a versatile architect, whose dictum, "it is an architect's business to understand all styles, and to be prejudiced in favour of none", saw him build in the Neo-Norman style, at Penrhyn and at Gosford Castle in Ireland; the cottage orné style at Craven Cottage; Tudor Revival at Margam Castle; Palladianism at Amesbury Abbey; and Jacobethan at Llanover House. [75] Penrhyn Castle is generally considered to be his best work. [12]

Exterior

The castle is arranged in three main parts: the donjon, modelled on Hedingham Castle in Essex, which contained accommodation for the Pennant family; [h] the central block which contains the state rooms; and the service wing and stables. The castle runs on a north–south axis. The scale is immense, its seventy roofs cover an area of over an acre, [12] and its length, at 440 ft (134 m), which makes it impossible to be viewed in its entirety, disguises variations in the plan caused by the Pennants' desire to incorporate, rather than demolish, elements both of the original medieval house, and Wyatt's earlier castle. [11] The main building material is local rubble, lined internally with brick and externally with limestone ashlar. The masonry is of exceptional quality. [12] The main entrance to the castle is by way of a long drive which transverses the length of the castle before doubling back and passing through a gatehouse into a cour d'honneur in front of the central block. [77]

Interior

Grand Hall

The Grand Hall Penrhyn Castle Wales 006.jpg
The Grand Hall

The house is entered through a low entrance gallery. [78] This leads into the Grand Hall, which Pevsner considers "a strikingly inventive piece of architecture". [79] Of double height, it resembles the nave or transept of a church. [80] The ceiling forms a triforium supported by compound columns. [12] The hall acts as a junction, to the left entry is to the keep and the family apartments, to the right, the service wing, and ahead stand the state apartments of the main block. A 20th century critic described it as, "about as homely as a railway terminus, admirably suited to house an exhibition of locomotives, or outsize dinosaurs." [80] The stained glass is by Thomas Willement. [12]

Library

Mark Purcell, in his 2019 study, The Country House Library, describes the library at Penrhyn as "not just gargantuan, but exotically and astonishingly opulent." [81] The room is very large and bisected by four, flattened arches. These are plaster, as is the ceiling, but grained and polished to appear as wood. [82] Their decoration, and the design of the arches, draws on that found at the genuinely Norman Church of St Peter at Tickencote in Rutland. [82] The room contains a billiard table constructed entirely of slate and a range of bookcases and furniture designed by Hopper. [82] Haslam, Orbach and Voelcker consider the library the precursor for a long subsequent history of "masculine rooms [for] millionaires". [79] The room still contains the basis of a "good gentleman's library", despite sales of some of the most important and valuable books in the 1950s. [83]

Drawing Room and Ebony Room

The Drawing Room is the reconstructed Great hall of the medieval house, which Samuel Wyatt had previously incorporated into his late 18th-century remodelling. [12] It follows the library in its vaulting and panelling but the decorative style is lighter and more feminine, reflecting its use as a domain for the female members of the Pennant household. [84] Much of the furniture is again by Hopper. The room has large gilt mirrors at either end. The author Catherine Sinclair, who visited in the 1830s, described one as "the largest mirror ever made in this country". [84] [i]

The Ebony Room is named for its ebony panelling and furniture, [85] although much is in fact ebonised rather than real. [86]

A view up to the lantern at the apex of the Grand Staircase Penrhyn Castle Staircase (135895987).jpeg
A view up to the lantern at the apex of the Grand Staircase

Dining Room and Breakfast Room

These two rooms served a range of purposes. Their primary function as rooms for consumption alternated depending on whether the Pennants were receiving guests; the larger and more formal Dining Room was used when they were, the Breakfast Room when the family was alone at the castle. [87] Their secondary function was to serve as picture galleries for much of the large collection of paintings assembled by Edward Douglas-Pennant; the other main reception rooms offering little space for picture hanging due to their design and decoration. [88]

Grand Staircase

Cadw considers the Grand Staircase, "in many ways the greatest architectural achievement at Penrhyn." [12] It took over ten years to construct, [12] rises the full height of the house culminating in a lantern, its only illumination, and is built of a variety of grey stones decorated with "an orgy of fantastic carving". [89] Haslam, Orbach and Voelcker think it Hopper's tour de force and see parallels with the contemporaneous approach in Gothic Literature, "antiquarian and anarchic, intended to play on the emotions as novels and poems were doing in words." [90]

Bedrooms

The State Bedroom Penrhyn Castle Bedroom (135895991).jpeg
The State Bedroom

The keep provided accommodation for the family, and important guests, arranged as a series of suites on each of its four main floors. In one of these is the slate bed, intended to accommodate Queen Victoria on her visit in 1859, but within which she refused to sleep. [91] Many of the rooms are carpeted with high-quality Axminster Carpets [92] and with walls papered in handmade Chinese wallpaper. [93]

Service structures

Even by the standards of large, highly variegated, 19th-century country houses, Penrhyn is exceptionally well provided for through its range of service buildings. Rooms within the house include a butler's pantry, a servants' hall, offices for the estate manager and the housekeeper, and the kitchen, with separate still room, pantry and pastry room. Many functions are allocated their own towers, all designed by Hopper to reinforce the impression of a multi-turreted castle. These include the ice tower, the dung tower and the housemaids' tower. The stables are similarly designed to present the appearance of a fortress gatehouse. [12] On the wider estate are located an extensive Home Farm [79] and a range of gate lodges. Not all of these structures have appealed to architectural critics. Mowl and Earnshaw, in their study of lodges and gatehouses Trumpet at a Distant Gate, are particularly dismissive of Hopper's Grand Lodge, and of Hopper more generally. The lodge is condemned as "misapplied historicism" [94] while Hopper himself is censured as a model for the then-coming generation of Victorian architects, his career demonstrating how to "gain a whole world of rich commissions by eclectic dexterity, and still lose his own soul." [95] [j]

Listing designations

The castellated entrance to the stables Castell y Penrhyn Castel, gwynedd 16.JPG
The castellated entrance to the stables

The castle is a Grade I listed building. Its Cadw listing designation describes it as "one of the most important country houses in Wales; a superb example of the relatively short-lived Norman Revival of the early 19th century and generally regarded as the masterpiece of its architect, Thomas Hopper." [12] Other listed structures within the estate, all of which are Grade II with the exception of the Grand Lodge which is designated Grade II*, include: the Grand Lodge itself, [96] the Port Lodge and its walls, [97] [98] the Tal-y-bont Lodge, [99] the walls to the flower garden, [100] the relocated remnants of the original medieval chapel, [101] a bothy [102] and its walled garden, [103] an estate house, [104] the estate manager's house, [105] the estate kennels, [106] nine buildings at the home farm, [107] [108] [109] [110] [111] [112] [113] [114] and the wall surrounding the park. [115]

Gardens and grounds

The castle grounds are an example of the Victorian style of gardening, with specimen trees, rhododenra, and much planting. A conifer was planted by Queen Victoria [116] and another by the Queen of Romania. [117] There is a substantial home farm. The gardens contain a large underground reservoir, constructed in the 1840s and with a capacity of 200,000 gallons (900 cubic metres). Its purpose is uncertain, it may have been for use by the castle's in-house fire brigade in the event of a fire. [118] The park is listed Grade II* on the Cadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales. [119] The castle and its grounds are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Slate Landscape of Northwest Wales. [120]

Other

Railway Museum

Penrhyn Castle Railway Museum in the former stables Quarry railway demonstration track at Pehrhyn Castle Raikway Museum, Bangor, North Wales (28627816123).jpg
Penrhyn Castle Railway Museum in the former stables

The Penrhyn Castle Railway Museum is a narrow gauge railway museum. The Pennant's slate quarry at Bethesda was closely associated with the development of industrial narrow-gauge railways, and in particular the Penrhyn Quarry Railway (PQR), one of the earliest industrial railways in the world. In 1951 a museum of railway relics was created in the stable block. The first locomotive donated was Charles, one of the three remaining steam locomotives working on the PQR. A number of other historically significant British narrow-gauge locomotives and other artefacts have since been added to the collection. [85]

In 2014, Welsh National Opera used Penrhyn as the location for their filming of Claude Debussy's opera La chute de la maison Usher, based on Edgar Allan Poe's story The Fall of the House of Usher . [121] It has also been used as a television filming location. [122] [123] A parkrun takes place in the grounds of the castle each Saturday morning, starting and finishing at the castle gates. The fee to enter the castle grounds is waived for runners. [124]

See also

Notes

  1. By the mid-19th century, the Penrhyn quarries alone were generating around £100,000 income per year, so the build costs were well within the Pennants' means. [13]
  2. The challenges around coverage of the links between historic buildings, their owners and colonialism and slavery extend to Wikipedia. A 2020 discussion on the Lydney Park Talkpage, on whether to include details of the slave-owning origins of the fortune used to purchase the estate, was referenced in an article, Race, Gender and Wikipedia: How the Global Encyclopaedia Deals with Inequality, published in the Bulletin of the History of Archaeology in May 2021. [25]
  3. The slave ship Lady Penrhyn was named after Pennant's wife, Anne. [27]
  4. The Charity Commission concluded that the Trust's Interim Report was carefully researched and in accordance with its charitable objectives. [40]
  5. Vale of Glamorgan Council denied that the name was chosen to celebrate Penrhyn, saying that it was chosen as being the Welsh language word for peninsula. [43]
  6. The nocturnal wanderings around the castle of the alcoholic 4th Lord Penrhyn, in the company of his St. Bernard, caused the Gallery staff to fear for the safety of the pictures. [64]
  7. Victoria and Prince Albert stayed at the castle during a rare visit to Wales in 1859. The Queen reportedly declined to sleep in the specially-commissioned slate bed, as it reminded her of a tomb. [72]
  8. Hopper served as the county surveyor of Essex for over 40 years. [76]
  9. At the time of Catherine Sinclair's visit, only one mirror was installed, an organ being placed at the other end. The second mirror is a later replacement, installed when the organ was dismantled. [84]
  10. Mowl and Earnshaw term the Grand Lodge, Llandegai Lodge. [94]

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Ewenny Priory, in Ewenny in the Vale of Glamorgan, Wales, was a monastery of the Benedictine order, founded in the 12th century. The priory was unusual in having extensive military-style defences and in its state of preservation; the architectural historian John Newman described it as “the most complete and impressive Norman ecclesiastical building in Glamorgan”. Following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, parts of the priory were converted into a private house by Sir Edward Carne, a lawyer and diplomat. This Elizabethan house was demolished between 1803 and 1805 and replaced by a Georgian mansion, Ewenny Priory House. The house is still owned by the Turbervill family, descendants of Sir Edward. The priory is not open to the public apart from the Church of St Michael, the western part of the priory building, which continues to serve as the parish church for the village. The priory is in the care of Cadw and is a Grade I listed building.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Powis Castle</span> Grade I listed castle in Powys, Wales

Powis Castle is a medieval castle, fortress and grand country house near Welshpool, in Powys, Wales. The seat of the Herbert family, earls of Powis, the castle is known for its formal gardens and for its interiors, the former having been described as "the most important", and the latter "the most magnificent", in the country. The castle and gardens are under the care of the National Trust. Powis Castle is a Grade I listed building, while its gardens have their own Grade I listing on the Cadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Piercefield House</span> Neoclassical country house in Wales

Piercefield House is a largely ruined neo-classical country house near St Arvans, Monmouthshire, Wales, about 1.5 miles (2.4 km) north of the centre of Chepstow. The central block of the house was designed in the very late 18th century, by, or to the designs of, Sir John Soane. It is flanked by two pavilions, of slightly later date, by Joseph Bonomi the Elder. The house sits within Piercefield Park, a Grade I listed historic landscape, that was created in the 18th century as a notable Picturesque estate.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Margam Castle</span> Grade I listed house in Neath Port Talbot, Wales, United Kingdom

Margam Castle, Margam, Port Talbot, Wales, is a late Georgian country house built for Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot. Designed by Thomas Hopper, the castle was constructed in a Tudor Revival style over a five-year period, from 1830 to 1835. The site had been occupied for some 4,000 years. A Grade I listed building, the castle is now in the care of Neath Port Talbot County Borough Council. The castle stands within Margam Country Park, the former estate to the house. The park is listed at Grade I on the Cadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Richard Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn</span> British politician and peer

Richard Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn was a British politician and peer who represented Petersfield and Liverpool in the House of Commons of Great Britain from 1761 to 1790. He was the owner of Penrhyn Castle, an estate on the outskirts on Bangor, North Wales. Pennant was also an absentee owner of six sugar plantations and slaves in Jamaica. In Parliament, Pennant opposed the British abolitionist movement. In Wales, Pennant was a major figure in the development of the Welsh slate industry. He received an Irish peerage from George III in 1783, and died in 1808, leaving his estates to George Hay Dawkins.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ruperra Castle</span> Manor house and mock castle in Wales

Ruperra Castle or Rhiwperra Castle is a Grade II* Listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, situated in Lower Machen in the county borough of Caerphilly, Wales. Built in 1626, the castle is in a ruinous condition as at 2023. Its grounds are listed on the Cadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Edward Douglas-Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn</span> British politician

Edward Gordon Douglas-Pennant, 1st Baron Penrhyn, was a Scottish landowner in Wales and Jamaica, and a Conservative Party politician. He played a major part in the development of the Welsh slate industry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gwrych Castle</span> 19th-century Gothic Revival castle in Wales

Gwrych Castle is a Grade I listed country house near Abergele in Conwy County Borough, Wales. On an ancient site, the current building was created by Lloyd Hesketh Bamford-Hesketh and his descendants over much of the 19th and early 20th centuries. The castle and its 236-acre estate are now owned by a charity, the Gwrych Castle Preservation Trust.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bryn Bras Castle</span> Grade II* listed country house in Gwynedd, Wales

Bryn Bras Castle is a Grade II* listed country house located on the old road between Llanrug and Llanberis in Caernarfon, Gwynedd. The house, which remains privately owned, is a Grade II* listed building and its gardens and landscaped park are listed at Grade II on the Cadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Llandygai</span> Human settlement in Wales

Llandygai is a small village and community on the A5 road between Bangor and Talybont in Gwynedd, Wales. It affords a view of the nearby Carneddau mountain range. The population of the community taken at the 2011 Census was 2,487. Llandygai community includes nearby Tregarth and Mynydd Llandygai and also the pass of Nant Ffrancon.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mostyn Hall</span> Grade I listed building in Flintshire.

Mostyn Hall is a large house standing in 25 acres of garden near the village of Mostyn, Flintshire, Wales. It is designated by Cadw as a Grade I listed building.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clytha Park</span> House in Clytha, Monmouthshire

Clytha Park, Clytha, Monmouthshire, is a 19th-century Neoclassical country house, "the finest early nineteenth century Greek Revival house in the county." The wider estate encompasses Monmouthshire's "two outstanding examples of late eighteenth century Gothic", the gates to the park and Clytha Castle. The owners were the Jones family, later Herbert, of Treowen and Llanarth Court. It is a Grade I listed building.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Castle House, Usk</span> House in Usk, Monmouthshire, Wales

Castle House in Usk, Monmouthshire, Wales, originally formed the gatehouse to Usk Castle. Much altered in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, it is now a private home and a Grade I listed building.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grade I listed buildings in Gwynedd</span>

In the United Kingdom, the term listed building refers to a building or other structure officially designated as being of special architectural, historical, or cultural significance; Grade I structures are those considered to be "buildings of exceptional interest". Listing was begun by a provision in the Town and Country Planning Act 1947. Once listed, strict limitations are imposed on the modifications allowed to a building's structure or fittings. In Wales, the authority for listing under the Planning Act 1990 rests with Cadw.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grade II* listed buildings in Monmouthshire</span> List of buildings in principal area of Wales

Monmouthshire is a county of Wales. It borders Torfaen and Newport to the west; Herefordshire and Gloucestershire to the east; and Powys to the north. The largest town is Abergavenny, with the other major towns being Chepstow, Monmouth, and Usk. The county is 850 km2 in extent, with a population of 95,200 as of 2020. The present county was formed under the Local Government (Wales) Act 1994, which came into effect in 1996, and comprises some sixty percent of the historic county. Between 1974 and 1996, the county was known by the ancient title of Gwent, recalling the medieval Welsh kingdom. In his essay on local government in the fifth and final volume of the Gwent County History, Robert McCloy suggests that the governance of "no county in the United Kingdom in the twentieth century was so transformed as that of Monmouthshire".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">George Hay Dawkins-Pennant</span> British politician (1764–1840

George Hay Dawkins-Pennant was a British politician who represented Newark and New Romney in the House of Commons of the United Kingdom from 1814 to 1830.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Llannerch Hall</span> Grade II* listed building in Denbighshire.

Llanerch Hall, Trefnant, Clwyd, Wales, is a country house with medieval origins. It was rebuilt twice at the beginning and at the end of the 17th century, was again rebuilt in the 19th century, and further modified in the 20th. The hall is now divided into flats, each with its own Grade II* listing. The parkland, now a golf course, conceals traces of a late 17th century Italianate terraced garden that rivalled those at Powis Castle. The gardens were entirely destroyed in the 19th century rebuilding. The house remains privately owned.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Capel Newydd, Nanhoron</span> Former chapel in Nanhoron, Gwynedd, Wales

Capel Newydd in Nanhoron, near Llanengan, Gwynedd, is probably the oldest surviving Nonconformist chapel in North Wales. The chapel dates from 1770–1772. Restored in the Victorian era and again in 1956–1958, its interior is a remarkably complete survival with an earthen floor and simple box pews. Now in the care of a trust, the chapel is a Grade I listed building.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Victoria Terrace, Beaumaris</span> Terrace in Anglesey, Wales

Victoria Terrace, on the seafront in Beaumaris, Anglesey, Wales is a range of early 19th century townhouses. The terrace was designed by the architectural partnership of Joseph Hansom and Edward Welch for the Beaumaris Corporation. The development was a central part of the corporation's plans to reposition Beaumaris as a fashionable seaside resort in response to its declining maritime trade. The terrace was sold off in the early 20th century and is now divided into nineteen apartments, No. 1 remaining as a single house. This, and each apartment, No.s 2-20 inclusive, is designated a Grade I listed building, the Cadw listing record describing the whole block as "an outstanding and well-preserved late-Georgian terrace of national importance".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pentrehobyn</span> Grade I listed building in Flintshire.

Pentrehobyn is a large house standing just to the south-east of Mold, Flintshire, Wales. The present hall dates mainly from the mid-17th century, although parts may be older, and it includes later additions. The estate was owned, and the hall built, by the Lloyd family, local landowners who served as agents to the Lords of Penryhn in the 19th century. The hall is designated by Cadw as a Grade I listed building. An attached llettau (lodgings) block has its own Grade I listing. The gardens and grounds are designated Grade II on the Cadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales.

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