Hwarot (Korean : 활옷) is a type of traditional Korean clothing worn during the Goryeo and Joseon eras only by royal women for ceremonial occasions and later by commoners for weddings. [1] It is still worn during the pyebaek phase of modern weddings. [2] Before commoners wore hwarots,they wore wonsam due to the steep cost of a hwarot. [3] The gown is typically worn with a jokduri or hwagwan,binyeo or daenggi,and yeongigonji,which is red and black makeup spots on the cheek and brow. [3]
The Hwarot worn in Joseon may have been derived from Chinese-style clothing,with its earliest influence from the ceremonial court clothing and upper class clothing of the Tang dynasty. [4] Another hypothesis is that the hwarot worn in Joseon may also be linked to the Goryeo queens' 'big red coat' (taehong'ui) which was not allowed to be worn by commoners. [4]
The hwarot is an elaborately embroidered long robe with long and wide sleeves to cover the wearer's hands. [4] It is pieced together using many panels,has long side slits,and is similar to the hanbok. [4] The difference between a hwarot and a hanbok is the straight and symmetrical lines of the hwarot compared to the undergarments and that it closes in the front compared to other Asian garments that clasp at the right side. [4] Typical hwarots have a red exterior and a blue interior to symbolize the yin and yang relationship between the husband and bride. [4] The sleeves have three silk strips of red,blue,and yellow with a white cuff. [5] The robe is often decorated with symbols thought to bring wealth,good fortune,and fertility to the new couple. [6] Some common motifs included in the embroidery are flowers,plants,birds,and animal pairs meant to represent the bridal couple. [4] The hwarot embroidery would also often contain characters. [4] Due to the simple and unfitted style,some villages would have a few communal gowns that families would borrow for weddings. [5]
The hwarot is expensive to make so a single gown would be passed down for several generations. [5] Due to years of use,many repairs would need to be made such as using patches of embroidery cut from other gowns. [6] Hair ribbons were also used as a textile to repair the worn out areas,such as the fold line of the shoulder. [5] Trimming was a common repair method,particularly for the outlines of the body panels and sleeves that were damaged more easily. [5] A common way to preserve the dress over generations was to cover the cuffs and collar with soft paper that was replaced after each wedding. [6] Due to the heavy embroidery,several layers of backing paper were needed in the robes. The extra layers were difficult to sew through,so appliques were a standard method of repairs as well. [5] For small repairs,they occasionally used bold colors of green,purple and sky blue instead of a red thread that would blend in. [5] While repairing the robe for each wedding,family members would include additional motifs to symbolize their own well-wishes for the bride. [5]
A wedding dress or bridal gown is the dress worn by the bride during a wedding ceremony. The color,style and ceremonial importance of the gown can depend on the religion and culture of the wedding participants. In Western cultures and Anglo-Saxon cultural spheres,the wedding dress is most commonly white,a fashion made popular by Queen Victoria when she married in 1840. In Eastern cultures,brides often choose red to symbolize auspiciousness.
The hanbok is a traditional clothing of the Korean people. The term hanbok is primarily used by South Koreans;North Koreans refer to the clothes as chosŏn-ot (조선옷). The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora,especially by Koreans in China.
An ayam (아얌) is a Korean traditional winter cap mostly worn by women in the Joseon period for protection against the cold. It is also called aegeom which literally means "covering a forehead" in Korean. There is a historical record which mentions that officials in a low class called iseo wore ayam in the early Joseon period,so it was a unisex cap. However,it is not clear whether the shape at that time was identical to that of the later period. During the late Joseon period,an ayam was usually worn by female commoners. Especially in the western part of Korea,kisaeng commonly wore an ayam,and they were also worn as a simple formal headgear.
A jokduri is a type of traditional Korean coronet worn by women for special occasions such as weddings. Also known as a jokdu or jokgwan,it consists of an outer crown covered with black silk,and an inner which is filled with cotton and hard paper. Its top is decorated with cloisonnéornaments. The upper part is vaguely hexagonal and the bottom is cylindrical. The form of the jokduri gets narrower towards its base.
Gwanbok is a Korean term which was borrowed from the Chinese terms guanfu and guanfu. The term gwanbok is a collective term which refers to historical official attire,which was bestowed by the government court,including Chinese courts of various dynasties. The guanfu (冠服) system was a court attire system in China which also formed part of the Hanfu system. This system was them spread to neighbouring countries and was adopted in Korea since ancient times in different periods through the ritual practice of bestowal of clothing. Acknowledgement through bestowed robes and crowns (冠服) from the Emperor of China,who held hegemony over East Asia,would give support to Korean Kings and successors,as being the authentic rulers of their country as well as confirmed the political status of the Korean kingdom in the rest of the Sinosphere. The gwanbok system in Korea was different for each kingdom and changed throughout different periods. For example,initially given by the Chinese court in ritual practice,successive gwanbok were more often than not locally manufactured in Korea with different colours and adopted into hanbok. The gwanbok,which was used as the uniform of court officials,formed part of the gwanbok system and was used like the suit is nowadays.
Dopo is a variety of po,or overcoat in hanbok,which was first worn in the middle of the Joseon since the 16th century. The dopo was mostly worn by male Confucian scholars called seonbi during the Joseon period. It was also worn by Kings and princes and government officers. The dopo held a strong Confucianism value. It was worn as an everyday outer garment by Neo-Confucian scholars,who wore it as an official form of clothing or as a ritual clothing. It was also an ordinary robe worn by the court officials. Since the 1894 reform,all varieties of po with wide sleeves,including the dopo,were prohibited to be worn by King Gojong and instead people had to wear the durumagi.
Durumagi is a variety of po,or overcoat,in hanbok,the traditional Korean attire. It is a form of outerwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing,over a jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants). It also goes by the names jumagui,juchaui,or juui,
Dangui,also called dang-jeogori,dang-jeoksam,dang-hansam,danggoui,and samja,is a type of jeogori for women in hanbok,the Korean traditional clothing,which was worn for ceremonial occasions in the palace during the Joseon dynasty. It was typically a garment item reserved for the upper class and commoners of this period would rarely see anyone in this garment. It was worn as a simple official outfit or for small national ceremonies while court ladies wore it as a daily garment.
The wonsam is a female ceremonial topcoat in hanbok. It originated from China,and it was worn by queens,high-ranking court ladies,and royalty during the Joseon dynasty of Korea (1392–1910). It is also called 'daeui','daesu' and 'jangsam'. The queen,princess consort,and consort to the first son of the crown prince wore it as a soryebok,a robe for small ceremonies,while wives of high officers and sanggung wore it as daeryebok,a robe for major ceremonies. It was also worn by commoners on their wedding ceremony.
Geodeulji is a small piece of white cloth to attach to the edge of sleeves of hanbok,traditional Korean attire. Its inner is back up by changhoji (창호지),a type of Korean paper and its width is about 6 ~ 8 cm. Geodeulji is attached to dangui or jangot to cover hands because showing hands in front of seniors was considered not a courtesy during the Korean Joseon Dynasty.
Chima is a generic term for the skirt worn together with jeogori,or a short jacket in hanbok,Korean traditional clothing. It is also referred to as sang or gun in hanja in the Korean language.
Diyi,also called known as huiyi and miaofu,is the historical Chinese attire worn by the empresses of the Song dynasty and by the empresses and crown princesses in the Ming Dynasty. The diyi also had different names based on its colour,such as yudi,quedi,and weidi. It is a formal wear meant only for ceremonial purposes. It is a form of shenyi,and is embroidered with long-tail pheasants and circular flowers. It is worn with guan known as fengguan which is typically characterized by the absence of dangling string of pearls by the sides. It was first recorded as Huiyi in the Zhou dynasty.
Daxiushan,also referred as dianchailiyi,dashan,daxiu,is a form of shan,a traditional Chinese upper garment,with broad sleeves in Hanfu. It was most popular during the Tang dynasty,particularly among the members of royalty. The daxiushan was mainly worn for special ceremonial occasions and had different variations,mainly the result of different collar formations. The daxiushan could be worn under a skirt or as an outerwear. After the Tang dynasty,it continued to be worn in the Song and Ming dynasties.
A jang-ot,also known as janot,jang-eui,or jang-ui,is a type of po worn by women of the Joseon Dynasty period as a headdress or veil to cover their faces by the mid-18th century. They were mostly worn by commoners but not exclusively. Jang-ot was originally a form of men's po called jang-ui,which was worn in 15th century. The jang-ui started to be worn by women as an overcoat in early Joseon,even becoming a popular fashion item for women of high status. It was previously one of the most representative women's overcoats;it was worn as a women's overcoat when they would leave their house until the 17th century.
Dragon robes,also known as gunlongpao or longpao for short,is a form of everyday clothing which had a Chinese dragon,called long (龍),as the main decoration;it was worn by the emperors of China. Dragon robes were also adopted by the rulers of neighbouring countries,such as Korea,Vietnam,and the Ryukyu Kingdom.
Hanfu are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of hanfu,such as the ruqun,the aoqun,the beizi and the shenyi,and the shanku.
The fashion in the Yuan dynasty of Mongol (1271–1368) showed cultural diversity with the coexistence of various ethnic clothing,such as Mongol clothing,Han clothing and Korean clothing. The Mongol dress was the clothing of elite for both genders. Mongol attire worn in the 13th-14th century was different from the Han clothing from the Tang and Song dynasties. The Yuan dynasty court clothing also allowed the mixed of Mongol and Han style,and the official dress code of the Yuan dynasty also became a mixture of Han and Mongol clothing styles. After the founding of the Yuan dynasty,the Mongols strongly influenced the lifestyle and customs of the Han people.
Qungua,also known as longfenggua,or longfeng qungua,or guaqun,is one type of two-piece ceremonial traditional Chinese wedding set of attire,which is composed of a jacket called gua (褂) and of a long Chinese skirt called qun (裙). The qungua is a type of Hanfu worn by Han Chinese brides and originated in the 18th century during the Qing dynasty. It eventually became the traditional wedding attire of Cantonese brides in the Guangdong regions. It is traditionally handmade and is decorated with dragons and phoenixes embroideries. Nowadays,the qungua is still popular as a wedding dress in China,including in Hong kong and Macau.
Xiapei,also known as hapi in Korea,is a type of Chinese clothing accessory in either the form of a long scarf,a neckband,or in the shape of waistcoat depending on the time period. It was also referred as xiapeizhui when it was ornamented with a peizhui at its front end;the peizhui ornament could be made of diverse materials,such as silver,jade,and gold.
The hakchangui is a traditional type of Korean clothes used by scholars as school uniforms in the 17th-century and 18th-century. It was introduced from the Chinese hakchang during the Joseon period in the 17th and 18th century and gradually became popular.
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