Milena Canonero

Last updated
Milena Canonero
OMRI
Milena Canonero Berlinale 2017.jpg
Canonero in 2017
Born (1946-01-01) 1 January 1946 (age 78)
Turin, Kingdom of Italy
Occupation Costume designer
Years active1971–present
Spouse
​
(m. 1980)​

Milena Canonero OMRI (born 1 January 1946) is an Italian costume designer. In a career spanning over five decades, she is recognized for her prolific work across stage and screen. She has received numerous accolades, including four Academy Awards, three BAFTA Awards, and two Costume Designers Guild Awards. In 2017, she was the first costume designer to receive the Honorary Golden Bear.

Contents

Canonero is best known for her collaborations with directors Stanley Kubrick, Francis Ford Coppola, and Wes Anderson. She has received nine nominations for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design and has won four awards for Barry Lyndon (1975), Chariots of Fire (1981), Marie Antoinette (2006), and The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014).

Early life and education

Canonero was born in Turin, Italy. She attended university in Genoa, studying fashion, period design, and art history before moving to England in the late 1960's to complete her studies. [1] She designed for friends' boutiques in London and began assisting in commercials, meeting many filmmakers along the way, including director Hugh Hudson. [2] He gave Canonero her first break on his short film, which was shot on location in Sicily. She was involved in all aspects of the production and found the entire process captivating. [1] By chance, Canonero was also invited to watch Stanley Kubrick shoot parts of the landmark 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968); on the set, the director asked her to work with him on his next feature film project. [2]

Career

Canonero received her first major screen credits for designing costumes for Kubrick's dystopian classic A Clockwork Orange (1971). She created an instantly recognizable character's wardrobe that perfectly captures the film's discourse on class, money, and power through provoking aesthetics, which has since become an enduring inspiration for fashion icons and designers. [3] Canonero continued her professional relationship with the director on the epic period drama Barry Lyndon (1975). For that film, she worked along with Swedish costume designer Ulla-Britt Söderlund on crafting authentic 18th-century garments. During an extensive period of filming preparations, the designers examined original attire at the Victoria and Albert Museum and copied patterns from the collection. [1] They also drew inspiration from period-defining art, including portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and Joshua Reynolds, genre paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin, as well as the bawdy paintings by William Hogarth, among others. [1] Those remarkable efforts won them the Academy Award for Best Costume Design. [2] Then George Lucas approached her to design costumes for his space opera Star Wars (1977), an offer she eventually turned down and later considered the biggest missed opportunity of her career. [2] Canonero worked with Kubrick once again on the cult psychological horror The Shining (1980). She won her second Academy Award for another collaboration with Hudson, this time on his iconic sports drama Chariots of Fire (1981), the true story of two British athletes in the 1924 Olympics. She superbly interpreted the 1920s English tweeds, blazers, and college garb to the extent of inspiring 1980s fashion trends; such great success led to an offer for Canonero to create a clothing line for men's-wear manufacturer Norman Hilton, for which she received a special Coty Award. [2]

Canonero’s next major film was Sydney Pollack's Out of Africa (1985), based on Danish author Karen Blixen's autobiographical memoir of the same name about her decade-long experiences in colonial Kenya starting just before the outbreak of World War I. Canonero faced a formidable challenge when tasked in a strict three-month term to research, design, and produce hundreds of costumes appropriate for a vast ensemble of characters that includes African natives, white hunters, and European nobility. It took her on an intense journey everywhere, from the New York Public Library to the various museums and costume houses across England and Italy, and from the Blixen’s home in Denmark to Africa, where she met anthropologist Richard Leakey, who consulted her on less known aspects of African fashion in the 1910s, especially those regarding the ingenious groups. [4]

Beside her well-established screen career, Canonero is known for creating costumes for stage. She frequently collaborated with director Otto Schenk on his numerous opera productions. Those include Il trittico (Vienna State Opera, 1979), As You Like It (Salzburg Festival, 1980), Die Fledermaus (Vienna State Opera, 1980), Andrea Chénier (Vienna State Opera, 1981), and Arabella (Metropolitan Opera, 1983). She also worked with director Luc Bondy on such productions as Tosca (Metropolitan Opera, 2009) and Helena (Burgtheater, 2010).

On television, Canonero designed costumes for crime drama series Miami Vice in the 1980s. [5]

In 2001, Canonero received the Career Achievement Award in Film from the Costume Designers Guild. In 2005, Canonero won the guild's award for excellence in contemporary film for her work on Wes Anderson's The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou (2004). She won her third Oscar for Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette (2006).

Details of the costumes worn by Ralph Fiennes and Tilda Swinton in The Grand Budapest Hotel, designed by Canonero. FIDM Museum - Film costumes - Grand Budapest Hotel (16476925205).jpg
Details of the costumes worn by Ralph Fiennes and Tilda Swinton in The Grand Budapest Hotel , designed by Canonero.

Canonero reteamed with Anderson in 2014 on The Grand Budapest Hotel , for which she received her ninth nomination and fourth win at the 87th Academy Awards. She also won a BAFTA award for her work on the film.

Personal life

Canonero is married to actor Marshall Bell, and they live in West Hollywood, California.

Filmography

YearTitleDirectorNotes
1971 A Clockwork Orange Stanley Kubrick
1975 Barry Lyndon Co-designed with Ulla-Britt Söderlund
1977 The Disappearance Stuart Cooper
1978 Midnight Express Alan Parker
1980 The Shining Stanley Kubrick
1981 Chariots of Fire Hugh Hudson
1983 The Hunger Tony Scott
1984 Give My Regards to Broad Street Peter Webb
The Cotton Club Francis Ford Coppola
1985 Out of Africa Sydney Pollack
1987 Good Morning, Babylon Paolo Taviani
Vittorio Taviani 		Associate producer only
Barfly Barbet Schroeder
1988 Tucker: The Man and His Dream Francis Ford Coppola
1990 The Bachelor Roberto Faenza Co-designed with Alberto Verso
Dick Tracy Warren Beatty
The Godfather Part III Francis Ford Coppola
1992 Single White Female Barbet SchroederAlso production designer
Damage Louis Malle
1994 Only You Norman Jewison
Love Affair Glenn Gordon Caron
Camilla Deepa Mehta
Death and the Maiden Roman Polanski
1998 Bulworth Warren Beatty
1999 Titus Julie Taymor
2001 The Affair of the Necklace Charles Shyer
2002 Solaris Steven Soderbergh
2004 Eros Segment: "Equilibrium"
Ocean's Twelve
The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou Wes Anderson
2006 Marie Antoinette Sofia Coppola
Belle Toujours Manoel de Oliveira
2007 Hotel Chevalier Wes AndersonShort film acts as a prologue to The Darjeeling Limited
The Darjeeling Limited
I Viceré Roberto Faenza
2010 The Wolfman Joe Johnston
2011 Carnage Roman Polanski
Someday This Pain Will Be Useful to You Roberto FaenzaProducer only
2013 Romeo & Juliet Carlo Carlei Co-producer only
Something Good Luca Barbareschi
Castello Cavalcanti Wes AndersonShort film
2014 The Grand Budapest Hotel
2016 Paris Can Wait Eleanor Coppola
2018 The Sisters Brothers Jacques Audiard
2021 The French Dispatch Wes Anderson
2023 Asteroid City
2024 Megalopolis Francis Ford Coppola

Awards and nominations

Major associations

Key
†Indicates non-competitive categories

Academy Awards

YearCategoryNominated workResultRef.
1975 Best Costume Design Barry Lyndon Won [6]
1981 Chariots of Fire Won [7]
1985 Out of Africa Nominated [8]
1988 Tucker: The Man and His Dream Nominated [9]
1990 Dick Tracy Nominated [10]
1999 Titus Nominated [11]
2001 The Affair of the Necklace Nominated [12]
2006 Marie Antoinette Won [13]
2014 The Grand Budapest Hotel Won [14]

BAFTA Awards

YearCategoryNominated workResultRef.
British Academy Film Awards
1975 Best Costume Design Barry Lyndon Nominated [15]
1981 Chariots of Fire Won [16]
1985 The Cotton Club Won [17]
1986 Out of Africa Nominated [18]
1990 Dick Tracy Nominated [19]
2006 Marie Antoinette Nominated [20]
2014 The Grand Budapest Hotel Won [21]
2021 The French Dispatch Nominated [22]

Miscellaneous awards

List of Milena Canonero other awards and nominations
AwardYearCategoryTitleResultRef.
Berlin International Film Festival 2017 Honorary Golden Bear †—Received [23]
César Awards 2018 Best Costume Design The Sisters Brothers Nominated [24]
Chicago Film Critics Association Awards 2023 Best Costume Design Asteroid City Nominated [25]
Ciak d'oro 1990Best Costume Design The Bachelor Nominated
2008 I Viceré Nominated
Costume Designers Guild Awards 2000Career Achievement Award †—Received [26]
2004 Excellence in Contemporary Film The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou Won [27]
Ocean's Twelve Nominated [28]
2006 Excellence in Period Film Marie Antoinette Nominated [29]
2014 The Grand Budapest Hotel Won [30]
2016 Excellence in Short Form Design H&M: "Come Together"Nominated [31]
Coty Awards 1984Special Award
(for tailored clothing)†		—Received [32]
Critics' Choice Movie Awards [lower-alpha 1] 2014 Best Costume Design The Grand Budapest Hotel Won [33]
David di Donatello Awards 1990 Best Costumes The Bachelor Nominated
2008 I Viceré Won [34]
Hollywood Film Awards 2014 Hollywood Costume Design Award The Grand Budapest Hotel Won [35]
Nastro d'Argento Awards 1989Best Costume Design Tucker: The Man and His Dream Nominated
1991 The Bachelor Nominated
2007 Marie Antoinette Won
2008 I Viceré Won [36]
2012 Best Producer Someday This Pain Will Be Useful to You Nominated [37]
2014Best Costume Design The Grand Budapest Hotel / Something GoodWon [38]
Online Film Critics Society Awards 2021 Best Costume Design The French Dispatch Nominated
2023 Asteroid City Nominated
Rodeo Drive Walk of Style 2006Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award †—Received [39]
Satellite Awards 1999 Best Costume Design Titus Nominated
2001 The Affair of the Necklace Nominated
2006 Marie Antoinette Nominated
2014 The Grand Budapest Hotel Won
Saturn Awards 1983 Best Costume Design The Hunger Nominated [40]
1989/90 Dick Tracy Nominated [41]
2010 The Wolfman Nominated [42]

Other honors

Notes

  1. ↑ formerly known as "Broadcast Film Critics Association Awards"

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References

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  3. ↑ Lazic, Elena (April 2, 2019). "A Clockwork Orange and fashion: why the droogs never go out of style". British Film Institute . Archived from the original on August 29, 2021. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
  4. ↑ Goodwin, Betty (January 3, 1986). "Authenticity Sparks 'Out of Africa' Costume Designs". Los Angeles Times . Retrieved August 12, 2022.
  5. ↑ Rourke, Mary (May 23, 1986). "One of the Hottest Properties in TV Is the Costume Designer". Los Angeles Times . Retrieved August 12, 2022.
  6. ↑ "48th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
  7. ↑ "54th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. March 2022. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
  8. ↑ "58th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
  9. ↑ "61st Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 5 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
  10. ↑ "63rd Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
  11. ↑ "72nd Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 22 April 2015. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
  12. ↑ "74th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 December 2015. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
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  25. ↑ Tellerico, Brian (December 8, 2023). "Killers of the Flower Moon, Oppenheimer, Poor Things Lead CFCA Nominations". RogerEbert.com . Archived from the original on December 8, 2023. Retrieved August 12, 2024.
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Further reading

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