Tocharian clothing

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Tocharian royal family of the Kingdom of Kucha (king, wearing a close-fitting, belted caftan with chequered lozenge pattern, queen in a green robe, and fair-haired young princes), Kizil Cave 17. Circa 500
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AD. Royal family, Cave 17, Kizil (family detail, retouched).jpg
Tocharian royal family of the Kingdom of Kucha (king, wearing a close-fitting, belted caftan with chequered lozenge pattern, queen in a green robe, and fair-haired young princes), Kizil Cave 17. Circa 500 AD.

Tocharian clothing refers to clothing worn by the Tocharians. A series of murals from Kizil, Kizilgaha and Kumtura caves depicting Kuchean royalties, knights, swordsmen and donors have provided the best source of information on Tocharian costume. Their clothes were made of colourful, richly patterned fabric; a single- or double-lapel, belted caftan was very popular. This type of clothing was referred to as East Sassanid costume (ostsassanidischer Tracht) by Albert von Le Coq. [1] However, Mariachiara Gasparini argued that the style was under various influences, which can not be easily categorised as being strictly "Sasanian". [2]

Contents

According to Mariachiara Gasparini: [3]

The so-called Tocharian donors portrayed in the Kucha caves wear outfits that are commonly recognized as "Iranian". Nonetheless, their clothing's tailoring patterns and textiles present local adaptations of imported materials and styles, which have been often confused as "Sasanian". Except for the article on Queen Svayaṃprabhā's dress by Jorinde Ebert ("The Dress of Queen Svayamprabha from Kuča, Sasanian and Other Influences in the Robes of Royal Donors Depicted in Wall Paintings of the Tarim Basin", Riggisberger Berichte 9, 2006), who has provided some insights on the topic, to date, a systematic study on Tocharian clothing has not yet been published. The single- or double-lapel robes worn respectively by the sword-bearers and other upper-class people depicted in the caves are similar to Turkic models widely used in Central Asia at the time. Nonetheless, the royal female and male outfits seem to be local creations.

Plaid textiles recovered from the Taklamakan Desert are of similar appearance to and are made with similar weaving techniques as textiles discovered at the Celtic sites of Hallstatt and Hallein. [4]

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It consisted of loose-fitting trousers, boots, and a knee-length tunic that was bound with a belt (kamar). A heavy caftan, crossed at the chest, could be worn belted. In 3rd- and 4th-century representations, the tunic appears squared off at the bottom. From the late 4th century, the lower hem is rounded. Ornamental and figural textile motifs become prominent around the 6th and 7th centuries, as is apparent at Taq-e Bostan. Early reliefs and seals portray members of the aristocracy wearing domed or pointed hats (kulāf) with their heraldic symbols (nīšān) on the side, often bound with diadems. Nobles were given the right to wear silk and jewellery. Women’s dress consisted of long, flowing, sleeved or sleeveless tunics. They were worn belted under the breasts with a long cloak worn over the left shoulder or used as a veil. Clothing was an important element in royal gift-giving. It also marked social rank, as did jewellery, and textiles and their motifs. The king bestowed clothing and jewellery as a mark of distinction on those he desired to honour and presented his own robes to especially favoured family and courtiers.

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References

  1. Le Coq, Albert von (1926). Auf Hellas Spuren in Ostturkistan (in German). Leipzig: Hinrichs. Archived from the original on 2021-05-14. Retrieved 2022-03-16.
  2. Gasparini, Mariachiara. "A Mathematic Expression of Art: Sino-Iranian and Uighur Textile Interactions and the Turfan Textile Collection in Berlin". Transcultural Studies. No 1 (2014). doi:10.11588/ts.2014.1.12313. Archived from the original on 15 November 2021. Retrieved 16 March 2022.
  3. Gasparini, Mariachiara (4 November 2021). "Kucha and Beyond: Divine and Human Landscapes from Central Asia to the Himalayas — Tailoring Tocharian Clothing: A Structural and Textile Analysis". seechac.org. Archived from the original on 16 March 2022. Retrieved 16 March 2022.
  4. Barber, Elizabeth Wayland (1999). The Mummies of Ürümchi. New York/London: W.W. Norton & Company. ISBN   9780393320190 . Retrieved 2023-01-27.