Sir John Spilman (also spelt Spielman) (died 1626) was a Lindau, German-born entrepreneur who founded the first commercially successful paper-mill in England, establishing a factory on the River Darenth in Dartford, Kent in 1588. [1] Spilman was also jeweller to Queen Elizabeth I, and was knighted by King James I.
In 1588 Spilman was granted a Crown lease on two mills in the Manor of Bignores at Dartford (the mills were previously leased to local landowner William Vaughan who died in 1580). Spilman repaired and altered the mills, at an estimated cost of £1,500, and financed the employment of skilled German paper-makers to produce good quality white paper. [1] One of the first works published using Spilman's paper was a poem by Thomas Churchyard [1] dedicated to Sir Walter Raleigh thus:
A sparke of friendship, and warm good will ; with a poem concerning the commodity of sundry sciences ; especially concerning paper, and a mill, lately set up near Dartfort by a high German, called Mr. Spilman, jeweller to the queen majesty. [2]
The works became a major source of local employment, with some 600 workers. [3]
Spilman secured a patent dated February 7th, 1589 giving him a monopoly in buying materials for making white paper and preventing anyone from setting up in competition without his permission. This monopoly was extended by a further 14 years in July 1597 and effectively prevented other mills from making highly prized white paper (most rival concerns were engaged in producing inferior quality brown paper). [1] [3] [4]
Spilman is also reputed to have been responsible for introducing lime (linden; Tilia ) trees into the UK. [5]
In 1587, Elizabeth asked Spilman, her household goldsmith, to employ English and foreign ("stranger") diamond cutters, ruby cutters, agate cutters, clockmakers, goldsmiths, and wire workers. [6] In January 1589 he was ordered to make gold buttons for the queen from two old gold collars which were formed of S-shaped pieces and knots of gold, with enamelled gold roses. [7]
In 1593 Richard Butler, captain of one of Walter Raleigh's ships, said Spilman dealt in jewels at court, was about 38 and had a long chestnut beard and a scar on his forehead. He thought he was Flemish. [8]
In 1598 he sold a jewel called the "Rainbow" to the Earl of Northumberland for £21, [9] and in September 1600 a jewel which Northumberland gave to the queen with a petticoat provided by Audrey Walsingham, together worth £200. [10] In October 1600 Spilman, Leonard Bushe and Hugh Kayle appraised and sold a quantity of old jewels from the Tower of London on the orders of Queen Elizabeth. These included pearls that had been embroidered on the Queen's gowns. [11]
Spilman and William Herrick formed a partnership to work for King James I and Anne of Denmark. Spilman wrote to Sir Robert Cecil that "Herrick and I are joined together in the works for his Majesty, and agree like friends." He asked Cecil to ask Sir George Home, Keeper of the Privy Purse, to speed up their payment. They also worked with Arnold Lulls. [12]
They made jewels for the coronations, refashioned the armille, ampulla, and sceptre, and mounted a large number of precious and imitation stones in collets so they could be sewn on the king's cloth-of-estate in the Abbey. The 133 stones for the cloth included; opals, amethysts, pseudo-amethysts, yellow stones, pseudo-topazes, pseudo-sapphires, pseudo-emeralds, pseudo-diamonds, pseudo-rubies, and other "made stones". Anne of Denmark was crowned with a "circlet" of gold set with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and pearls. Some of the gems incorporated in the circlet were obtained by dismantling Elizabeth's jewels. They made insignia of the Order of the Garter and Georges, some to be sent to the Duke of Württemberg. On the instructions of Mary Radcliffe they had mended some old pieces from the collection of Queen Elizabeth, including; a branch of tree with a half moon; a gold feather jewel set with rubies, emeralds, and pearls; a ring enamelled like crayfish with a large diamond. The Earl of Nottingham and other lords inspected their invoice and recommended it should be reduced by £74-13s-1d. [13] [14] [15]
They also made a jewel for the king's hat in the shape of the letter "I". This included two great rubies and a great and a lesser diamond. [16] One of the diamonds was taken from an old jewel belonging to Anna of Denmark. The remainder of the queen's jewel was broken up by Nicasius Russell in 1609 to make gold plate. [17] The "I" or "J" jewel was delivered to Charles I of England in November 1625. [18]
On 12 January 1604 Spilman and Herrick were asked to assess and make an inventory of jewels that had belonged to Queen Elizabeth. James had already given many pieces to the queen, Princess Elizabeth, and Arbella Stuart and others. The remaining jewels had been transferred from the keeping of Mary Radcliffe, former gentlewoman to Queen Elizabeth, to the Countess of Suffolk. [19] Other pieces of Elizabeth's jewelley were delivered by Thomas Knyvet. He had kept them at Westminster Palace on the instructions of Queen Elizabeth, and James and his courtiers sent some to Spilman and Herrick for valuation, with an ivory coffer, and a "great rich glass set with diamonds rubies emeralds and pearls, made in the form of a woman upon a pillar or case holding a clock with diverse motions" worth £2,739 brought from the Tower of London. [20]
On 4 January 1605 Spilman requested payment for a chain of pearls and six diamond rings delivered to George Home, now Lord Berwick, as keeper of the royal wardrobe, a tablet or locket of gold set with diamonds given by the Lord Chancellor to Anna of Denmark to send to Denmark worth £700, a jewel like a fleur de lys for a French woman, three dozen buttons each set with five diamonds for Anna of Denmark, with three dozen set with four diamonds and a ruby, and three dozen large buttons of "Spanish work" each with four rubies and a diamond. [21]
In the same month, Spilman and two other goldsmiths loaned jewels for the costumes The Masque of Blackness . The borrowed jewels were valued at £10,000, and Anne of Denmark's chamberlain, Robert Sidney, became liable for £40 for two lost diamonds. [22]
John Spilman was knighted by James I in 1605, probably in relation to his work as court goldsmith and jeweller rather than his paper-making exploits.[ citation needed ] At the same time, he was also granted the Manor of Bexley, which he subsequently sold to William Camden. [23] In 1605 he supplied a number of "gold tablets", cases for miniature portraits of the King and Queen, set with rubies and diamonds. [24] In May 1605 he supplied a tablet locket with two pictures to the Earl of Hertford for his embassy. [25]
In July 1606 Spilman and William Herrick supplied pearls for the King's embroiderer William Broderick at the time of the visit of Christian IV of Denmark, the brother of Anna of Denmark. The pearls were intended for the king's saddle and the furniture of his horse, and the panes of the kings hose or stockings. [26] Spilman was tasked with setting and re-setting the "Portugal diamond" for the queen, placing it in a gold bodkin in 1607. [27]
In December 1607 Spilman, Herrick, and the goldsmith John Williams were asked to polish and amend some pieces that Queen Elizabeth had mortgaged, and King James gave Anna of Denmark a cup made of unicorn horn, a gold ewer, a salt with a branch from which serpent's tongues and sapphires were suspended, and a crystal chess board with crystal and topaz chessmen. [28] He supplied jewels and pearls worth £2,880 to King James for New Year's Day gifts to the queen, Princess Elizabeth and the Duke of York in January 1610. [29] Prince Henry bought a diamond ring for £400. [30]
John Spilman made record drawings of the cut and settings of eleven diamonds which Anne of Denmark pawned in March 1615. [31]
In 1618 a German aristocrat, Benjamin Bouwinghausen von Walmerode (1571-1635), mentioned in a letter that he knew several courtiers in London including Thomas Murray and David Murray of Gorthy, and listed Spilman amongst the "lesser known" of his acquaintaince. [32] In 1619 Spilman, with the other royal jewellers Abraham Harderet, George Heriot, and William Herrick, joined the funeral procession of Anna of Denmark in 1619. [33]
Spilman, who lived in the parish of St Martin's-in-the-Fields also lent money on jewels. [34] In or before 1621 he hosted Andrew Sinclair as ambassador from Denmark. [35]
In 1624 Lionel Cranfield, the Lord Treasurer, appointed Philip Jacobson as a goldsmith to the king, noting that George Heriot was dead and Spilman and William Herrick rarely did any work. [36]
Spilman died in 1626 and is commemorated in Holy Trinity Church, Dartford. His first wife Elizabeth Mengel, daughter of a Nuremberg merchant, died in 1607 aged 55. He had several children by his second wife Katherine who survived until about 1644. [1] Anne Spilman was baptised at St Martin-in-the-Fields on 15 August 1609. [37]
George Heriot was a Scottish goldsmith and philanthropist. He is chiefly remembered today as the founder of George Heriot's School, a large independent school in Edinburgh; his name has also been given to Heriot-Watt University, as well as several streets in the same city.
George Home, 1st Earl of Dunbar, KG, PC was, in the last decade of his life, the most prominent and most influential Scotsman in England. His work lay in the King's Household and in the control of the State Affairs of Scotland and he was the King's chief Scottish advisor. With the full backing and trust of King James he travelled regularly from London to Edinburgh via Berwick-upon-Tweed.
A zibellino, flea-fur or fur tippet is a women's fashion accessory popular in the later 15th and 16th centuries. A zibellino, from the Italian word for "sable", is the pelt of a sable or marten worn draped at the neck or hanging at the waist, or carried in the hand. The plural is zibellini. Some zibellini were fitted with faces and paws of goldsmith's work with jeweled eyes and pearl earrings, while unadorned furs were also fashionable.
Sir William Herrick or Hericke was an English jeweller, courtier, diplomat and politician who sat in the House of Commons at various times between 1601 and 1622.
The Mirror of Great Britain was a piece of jewellery that was part of the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom during the reign of King James VI and I. It was pawned in 1625 and is considered lost.
Costume and gold and silver plate belonging to Elizabeth I were recorded in several inventories, and other documents including rolls of New Year's Day gifts. Arthur Jefferies Collins published the Jewels and Plate of Queen Elizabeth I: The Inventory of 1574 from manuscripts in 1955. The published inventory describes jewels and silver-plate belonging to Elizabeth with detailed references to other source material. Two inventories of Elizabeth's costume and some of her jewellery were published by Janet Arnold in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocke'd.
The Chequers Ring is one of the few surviving pieces of jewellery worn by Queen Elizabeth I of England. The mother-of-pearl ring, set with gold and rubies, includes a locket with two portraits, one depicting Elizabeth and the other traditionally identified as Elizabeth's mother Anne Boleyn, but possibly her step-mother Catherine Parr. The ring is presently housed at Chequers, the country house of the prime minister of the United Kingdom.
Anne Livingstone, Countess of Eglinton was a Scottish courtier and aristocrat, and lady-in-waiting to Princess Elizabeth and Anne of Denmark.
The Great 'H' of Scotland was a jewel belonging to Mary, Queen of Scots comprising a large diamond, a ruby, and a gold chain. It was broken up in 1604 and made into the Mirror of Great Britain for James VI and I.
Abraham Harderet, goldsmith and jeweller to Elizabeth I of England and Anne of Denmark
James Maxwell, 1st Earl of Dirletoun was a Scottish courtier and landowner, and Black Rod. He was involved in selling royal jewels.
Nicasius Roussel, Nicasius Rousseel or Nicasius Russell was a Flemish goldsmith, jewelry merchant, draftsman, engraver (printmaker) and court artist who worked in London for James I, Anne of Denmark, and Charles I. He became a naturalized citizen of England in 1608.
Sir Francis Gofton was an English courtier and administrator. He was an auditor of royal accounts and jewels, Chief Auditor of the Imprest from 1597 and Auditor of Mint from August 1603. Gofton acquired the manor of Heathrow, and houses in Stockwell and West Ham. He was often called "Auditor Gofton". The surname is frequently transcribed as "Goston" or "Guston"
Mary Radcliffe or Ratcliffe (1550-1617) was a courtier of Queen Elizabeth I of England.
Arnold Lulls was a Flemish goldsmith and jeweller in London. He served the court and made several pieces intended as diplomatic gifts.
The jewels of Mary, Queen of Scots (1542–1587), are mainly known through the evidence of inventories held by the National Records of Scotland. She was bought jewels during her childhood in France, adding to those she inherited. She gave gifts of jewels to her friends and to reward diplomats. When she abdicated and went to England many of the jewels she left behind in Scotland were sold or pledged for loans, first by her enemies and later by her allies. Mary continued to buy new jewels, some from France, and use them to reward her supporters. In Scotland her remaining jewels were worn by her son James VI and his favourites.
The jewels of Anne of Denmark (1574–1619), wife of James VI and I and queen consort of Scotland and England, are known from accounts and inventories, and their depiction in portraits by artists including Paul van Somer. A few pieces survive. Some modern historians prefer the name "Anna" to "Anne", following the spelling of numerous examples of her signature.
The jewellery and jewels owned by James V of Scotland are mainly known from the royal treasurer's accounts and inventories. James V reinforced his authority by lavish display.
An inventory of the jewels of Mary I of England, known as Princess Mary or the Lady Mary in the years 1542 to 1546, was kept by her lady in waiting Mary Finch. The manuscript is now held by the British Library. It was published by Frederic Madden in 1831. Some pieces are listed twice. Two surviving drawings feature a ribbon with the inscription, "MI LADI PRINSIS". The British Library also has an inventory of the jewels she inherited on coming to the throne in 1553.
Philip Jacobson was a London goldsmith who worked for James VI and I and Anne of Denmark.
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