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Company type | Public limited company |
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LSE: BRBY FTSE 100 component | |
ISIN | GB0031743007 |
Industry | Fashion |
Founded | 1856Basingstoke, England | in
Founder | Thomas Burberry |
Headquarters | London, England, UK |
Number of locations | 418 (2022) |
Area served | Worldwide |
Key people |
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Products |
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Revenue | ![]() |
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Number of employees | 9,169 (2024) [3] |
Website | burberry |
Burberry Group plc is a British luxury fashion house established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry and headquartered in London, England. [4] It designs and distributes ready to wear, including trench coats, leather accessories, and footwear.
Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper's apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England. [5] By 1870, the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire. [5] In 1879, Burberry introduced gabardine to his brand, a hardwearing, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving. [6] In 1891, Burberry opened a shop in the Haymarket, London. [5]
In 1901, the Burberry Equestrian Knight logo was developed containing the Latin word "Prorsum", meaning "forwards", and it was registered as a trademark in 1909. [5] In 1911, the company became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen, [5] the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A Burberry gabardine jacket was worn by George Mallory on his attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. [7]
Adapted to meet the needs of military personnel, the "trench coat" [5] was born during the First World War; it was worn by British officers in the trenches. [8] After the war, it became popular with civilians. [9]
The Burberry check has been in use since at least the 1920s, primarily as a lining in its trench coats. [5] The celebrity motorcycling sisters Betty and Nancy Debenham wore their trench coats for travelling and racing in the 1920s and recommeded the garment in their 1928 book Motor-Cycling for Women. [10] [11] Burberry also specially designed aviation garments. They outfitted Mrs Victor Bruce for her 1930 round the world flight and her one woman flight to Japan. She wore a reversible coat with waterproof gabardine outside for flying and with a tweed inner side which could be turned outside to create a smart look for disembarking under the glare of the publicity her exploites attracted. [10] In 1937, A. E. Clouston and Betty Kirby-Green broke the world record for the fastest return flight from London to Cape Town in The Burberry airplane that was sponsored by the brand. [12] [10] Burberry was an independent family-controlled company until 1955, when Great Universal Stores (GUS) assumed ownership. [13]
During the 1970s and 1980s, Burberry signed agreements with worldwide manufacturers to produce goods complementary to the existing British collection, such as suits, trousers, shirts, sportswear and accessories, for men, women, and children. These products, designed under the strict control of headquarters in London, were produced and distributed through independent retail stores worldwide as well as through the Burberry stores, and contributed to the growth of the brand in sales and profits through to the late 90s, although the full extent of sales was not apparent in the parent company accounts since much was done through licensed agreements. The company had signed Lord Lichfield as photographer, Lord (Leonard) Wolfson was Chairman and Stanley Peacock OBE Managing Director. [14] In 1997, GUS director Victor Barnett became chairman of Burberry, hiring Rose Marie Bravo to execute a corporate reorganization and restoration of the brand as a luxury fashion house. [15] [16] Barnett led the company up to its successful IPO in 2001. [17]
In May 2001, Christopher Bailey joined Burberry as creative director. [18] [19] Bailey was the chief creative officer from 2014, as well as chief executive (CEO) from 2014 until November 2017. [20] [21] Bailey stepped down as chief creative officer in March 2018 and had departed the brand completely by the end of 2018. [22]
Between 2001 and 2005, Burberry became associated with "chav" and football hooligan culture. This change in the brand reputation was attributed to lower priced products, the proliferation of counterfeit goods adopting Burberry's trademark check pattern, and adoption by celebrities prominently identified with "chav" culture. The association with football hooliganism led to the wearing of Burberry check garments being banned at some venues. [23]
Burberry Group plc was initially floated on the London Stock Exchange in July 2002. GUS divested its remaining interest in Burberry in December 2005. [24] [25] In 2005, Sanyo-shokai was the Burberry ready-to-wear licence holder in Japan, with retail value of €435 million. [26]
In 2006, Rose Marie Bravo, who as chief executive had led Burberry to mass market success through licensing, retired. [27] She was replaced by another American, Angela Ahrendts, [28] who joined from Liz Claiborne in January 2006, and took up the position of CEO on 1 July 2006. Ahrendts and Bailey successfully turned around the then chav-like reputation that the brand had acquired at the end of Bravo's tenure and the cheapening effect of the brand's omnipresence, by removing the brand's check-pattern from all but 10% of the company's products, taking the fragrance and beauty product licenses back in-house and buying out the Spanish franchise that was worth 20% of group revenues. [29] [18] [30] [31]
Burberry first sold on line in the US, then in the UK in October 2006, and in the rest of the EU in 2007. [32]
It was reported in 2012 that Ahrendts was the highest paid CEO in the UK, making £16.9m. [33]
In October 2013, it was announced that Ahrendts would take up the position of Senior Vice President of retail and online at Apple, Inc. from April 2014, and would be replaced as CEO by Bailey. [34] [35] During her tenure, sales increased to over £2 billion, and the market capitalization more than tripled to £7 billion. [36] Burberry promotes its British origins; as of July 2012, Burberry maintained two production facilities in Great Britain, one in Castleford producing raincoats, and one in Keighley. [37] In spring 2014, Bailey became CEO of Burberry and retained the role of chief creative officer. [35] His basic salary was £1.1m, with total compensation of up to £10m a year depending on sales targets being met. [38]
In July 2016, it was announced that Celine boss Marco Gobbetti would become CEO of Burberry plc, while Bailey became the Creative Director with the title of President. [39] [40] In 2016, the label launched its "Mr Burberry" fragrance. [41]
In early May 2017, the store announced it was moving 300 employees from London to Leeds. In July 2017, Gobbetti replaced Bailey as CEO. [41] In March 2018, Burberry named Riccardo Tisci, creative director at Givenchy from 2005 to 2017, as the brand's chief creative officer. [42] He said: "I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new chief creative officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand." [43]
A few months later, Tisci presented a new logo and monogram for the brand, designed by the English graphic designer Peter Saville. [44] [45]
In April 2018, it was announced that Sir John Peace would be stepping down as chairman of the board and would be replaced by as chairman by Gerry Murphy. [47] [48] Murphy said: "Burberry is a unique British brand that I have admired for a long time and I am looking forward to working with Marco Gobbetti and the Board to guide the company through its next phase of growth." [49]
Murphy had been CEO of Kingfisher plc, as well as being current chairman of Tate and Lyle and Blackstone Group International Partners LLP. [50] Peace's departure marked a change in leadership for the group, with Gobetti and Ahrends having left in the previous years. [51] [52]
In May 2018, it was reported that Burberry had filed a lawsuit against Target Corporation, claiming that Target had copied its check print designs and was seeking an amount of $2 million, in addition to its legal costs. [53] [54]
In July 2018, it was reported that in the previous five years Burberry had destroyed unsold clothes, accessories, and perfume worth over £90m in order to protect its brand and prevent the items being stolen or sold cheaply. While a representative of Greenpeace criticised the decision, Burberry claimed that the energy generated from burning its products was captured, making it environmentally friendly. [55] [56] [57] According to Burberry's annual report, by the end of the financial year 2018, the company had destroyed goods worth £28.6m, an increase on the £26.9m from its financial year 2017. [58] In September 2018, Burberry reported that it would stop the practice of burning unsold goods, with immediate effect. Burberry also announced it would stop using real fur in its products, and would phase out existing fur items. [59]
In February 2019, Burberry apologized for showcasing a hoodie with a noose around the neck in its show at the London Fashion Week. Burberry said it had removed the item from its collection, after criticism from one of its own models led to an online backlash. [60]
In February 2020 Burberry was forced to close 24 of its 64 Chinese mainland stores because of the COVID-19 pandemic. [61] By July 2020, the company announced it would cut 500 jobs worldwide, including 150 in its UK head offices, in an effort to save £55 million following a reduction in sales due to the COVID-19 pandemic. [62] In 2021, Burberry announced that it would become a "climate positive" company by 2040. [63] [64] [65] [66] The fashion brand also announced that it would commit to a new target to reduce supply chain emissions (i.e. assets not owned or controlled by the reporting organisation) by 46% by 2030, an increase from an earlier pledge of a 30% reduction. [67] [68] In March 2021, Burberry was the first luxury brand to be targeted in China as part of the backlash regarding sanctions against the alleged human rights abuses in Xinjiang. [69] Brand ambassador and Actress Zhou Dongyu terminated her contract with Burberry. [70]
In April 2022, after the departure of Marco Gobbetti, the Versace boss Jonathan Akeroyd took over Burberry as the next chief executive in a deal including a £6m golden hello to cover the loss of bonus and share awards for leaving his previous position. [71] [72]
In July, 2022, Burberry announced Thai artist Vachirawit Chivaaree as their first Global Brand Ambassador from the South Asia-Pacific Region. [73] [74] [75] [76] [77] [78]
Later in 2022, the company's chief operating and financial officer announced a ban on the use of exotic skins—such as alligator and snake—in its collections. [79] [80] [81] In September 2022, Burberry announced designer Daniel Lee, former creative director of Bottega Veneta, [82] as Riccardo Tisci's replacement as the company's chief creative officer. [83] [84] [85] [86]
In February 2023 a new logo and branding was introduced: this brought back the Equestrian Knight logo. [87] [88] The advertising campaign features British models and musicians Shygirl, Liberty Ross and Skepta. [89] [90] [91] [92] [93] [94] [88]
In April 2023, rapper Kano fronted a Burberry marketing campaign introduced by Lee in February 2023. [95] [96] [97] [98] [99] The new direction was phrased as "a modern take on British luxury". [100] [101]
In October 2023, Burberry collaborated with Vestiaire Collective on a new circular style project. This partnership would allow customers to exchange their second-hand Burberry clothing and handbags for a Burberry gift card, which they could reinvest in the brand, with the aim of promoting resale and reducing clothing waste. [102]
Research by the social democratic party in the European Parliament, the Sheffield Hallam University and other groups accused Burberry in 2023 of using Uyghur forced labour camps provided by the Sunrise Manufacture Group Co. for production of clothing. [103]
In July 2024, the company announced a profit warning and the departure of its chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd, to be replaced by Joshua Schulman. [104] The company also reported significant sales declines across its markets in the first quarter, with store sales dropping 23% in the Americas and Asia Pacific, and 16% in Europe, the Middle East, India and Africa. The company's shares fell 15% following the announcement, and it suspended dividend payments. Burberry also revealed plans for job cuts, primarily in its UK corporate office. [105]
On 29 March 2023, a Burberry tote was used in an episode from Succession. [106] Google searches for Burberry and the "Burberry tote bag" rose by more than 310% after the episode aired. [107] [108] [109] [110]
Gianni Versace S.r.l., usually referred to as Versace, is an Italian luxury fashion company founded by Gianni Versace in 1978. The company produces Italian-made ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as haute couture under its Atelier Versace brand and licenses its name and branding to Luxottica for eyewear. Gianni Versace being a native of Calabria, in the ancient Magna Grecia, the company logo is inspired by Medusa, a figure from Greek mythology.
Guccio Gucci S.p.A., doing business as Gucci, is an Italian luxury fashion house based in Florence, Italy. Its product lines include handbags, ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories, and home decoration; and it licenses its name and branding to Coty for fragrance and cosmetics under the name Gucci Beauty.
Bottega Veneta is an Italian luxury fashion house based in Milan, Italy. Its product lines include ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes, accessories, jewelry and fragrances.
Givenchy is a French luxury fashion and perfume house. It hosts the brand of haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics of Parfums Givenchy. The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de Givenchy and is a member of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du Prêt-à-Porter. It is currently owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH.
Mariacarla Boscono is an Italian fashion model and actress. Rising to fame in the early 2000s, Boscono has walked the runways of major worldwide fashion weeks and festivals, including Milan Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week, the Met Gala and Venice Film Festival. In 2005, over a two-week period, she walked more than seventy runways in three different cities, establishing a world record.
The title Chief Creative Officer (CCO) typically describes the highest-ranking position of a creative team within a media company. Depending on the type of company, this position may be responsible for the overall look and feel of marketing, media, and branding associated with the organization. The CCO may also be charged with managing, developing, and leading one or multiple teams of creative directors, art directors, designers, and copywriters. They may also have charge over long-term planning related to intellectual property owned by the company, as in the case of Marvel Comics/Marvel Studios, DC Comics/DC Studios, or the WWE.
Christopher Paul Bailey CBE is a British fashion designer who was president and chief creative officer of Burberry. In May 2014, he took up the role of chief creative officer and president, following the departure of former CEO Angela Ahrendts. In February 2018, he was succeeded as chief creative officer by Riccardo Tisci.
Riccardo Tisci is an Italian fashion designer. He studied in Italy at the Design Istituto d’Arte Applicata in Cantù until the age of 17, and then graduated from London's Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 1999. In 2005, Tisci was creative director for Givenchy Women's haute couture and ready-to-wear lines. In May 2008 he was additionally menswear and accessories designer of the Givenchy men's division. In March 2018, he was appointed chief creative officer of Burberry, succeeding Christopher Bailey.
Phoebe Philo OBE is an English fashion designer. She was the creative director of fashion brands Céline from 2008 to 2017 and Chloé from 2001 to 2006. Her eponymous line launched in 2023.
Rosie Alice Huntington-Whiteley is an English model and actress. She is best known for her work for lingerie retailer Victoria's Secret, formerly being one of their brand "Angels", for being the face of Burberry's 2011 brand fragrance Burberry Body, for her work with Marks & Spencer, and, most recently, for her artistic collaboration with denim-focused fashion brand Paige.
Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A., doing business as Ferragamo, is an Italian luxury fashion house focused on apparel, footwear, and accessories headquartered in Florence, Italy. It specializes in designing and manufacturing footwear and leather goods, which together account for over 86% of its revenue. The remaining products include ready-to-wear, silk products, fashion accessories, and licensed eyewear, watches, and perfumes. It operates 447 mono-brand stores worldwide as of September 2022.
Dame Angela Jean Ahrendts, is an American-British businesswoman who was previously the senior vice president of retail at Apple Inc. She was the CEO of Burberry from 2006 to 2014. She left Burberry to join Apple in 2014. She was ranked 25th in Forbes' 2015 list of the most powerful women in the world, 9th most powerful woman in the U.K. in the BBC Radio 4 Woman's Hour 100 Power List, and 29th in Fortune's 2014 list of the world's most powerful women in business. She was also a member of the UK's Prime Minister's business advisory council until it was disbanded in 2016.
Rose Marie Bravo is an American businesswoman. During her career, she has occupied leadership positions in several major fashion businesses and is now vice chairman at Burberry, of which she was CEO from 1997 to 2005.
Celine is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1945 by designer Céline Vipiana. The headquarters are located at 16 rue Vivienne in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris at the Hôtel Colbert de Torcy, which has French Historic Monument classification.
Charlotte Emma Bow Tilbury is an English beauty entrepreneur and makeup artist. She is the founder, chairperson, and chief creative officer of the makeup and skincare brand Charlotte Tilbury Beauty Ltd. Tilbury is a contributing beauty editor for British Vogue, and global ambassador for Women International.
Leandra Medeiros Cerezo, known professionally as Lea T, is a Brazilian-born, Italian-raised transgender fashion model. She has been called the "muse" of Riccardo Tisci, chief creative officer of British luxury brand Burberry; her professional last name of "T" stands for Tisci.
Marco Gobbetti is an Italian businessman, and the CEO of Salvatore Ferragamo. Before this, he succeeded Christopher Bailey in July 2017 as CEO of Burberry. Starting his career in management at luxury companies such as Bottega Veneta, Valextra, and Moschino, and became CEO of Givenchy in 2004 and was the chairman and the CEO of Céline.
Anok Yai is an American fashion model. She is the first model of South Sudanese descent and the second black supermodel after Naomi Campbell to open a Prada show. She has made several appearances on i-D and international Vogue covers, including American Vogue three times. Models.com ranks her as one of the "New Supers" of this generation, and since 2023, she was chosen by both the industry and fans as "Model of the Year" and USA Top Model 2024.
Daniel Lee is an English fashion designer. He was the creative director of the Italian luxury fashion house Bottega Veneta from 2018 to 2021, subsequently being appointed as Riccardo Tisci's replacement as Chief Creative Officer at the helm of Burberry.
Vachirawit Chivaaree, known professionally as Bright Vachirawit or Bright, is a Thai actor, singer and entrepreneur. He is popular for his performance in the film Love You To Debt,Congrats My Ex!, in series F4 Thailand: Boys Over Flowers, 2gether: The Series, for show Toe Laew, for album Adolescent and Lost & Found. He is founder of ASTRO Stuffs merchandise and Cloud9 Entertainment agency. He got listed in Forbes 30 Under 30 under Asia Entertainment and Sports category in 2024.