Musbury Valley, Helmshore
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Trees by Musbury Brook | |
Location within Lancashire | |
OS grid reference | SD772212 |
District | |
Shire county | |
Region | |
Country | England |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Post town | ROSSENDALE |
Postcode district | BB4 |
Dialling code | 01706 |
Police | Lancashire |
Fire | Lancashire |
Ambulance | North West |
UK Parliament | |
The Musbury Valley is a small valley in the Helmshore area of Rossendale Valley, Lancashire. Musbury Brook flows through its length, and its south side is flanked and dominated by Musbury Tor. In the 14th century it was part of the Earl of Lincoln's hunting park. Most of the Musbury valley is now sheep grazing pasture. To the south is Musbury Tor and Alden Valley; to the north-west is Musbury Heights and, beyond, the Grane Valley. Beginning as Long Grain Water on Musden Head Moor, the stream becomes Musbury Brook after its confluence with Short Grain Water. [1] It flows in a north-westerly direction to join the River Ogden, a tributary of the River Irwell. [2]
In 1305 a huge ditch and earth bank were dug to enclose a large area that included most of the west side of Musbury township (later becoming Helmshore). A palisade of oak stakes created a fence on the outside of the ditch which extended from Grane Valley in the north to Alden Valley in the south. This created an enclosure to keep in fallow deer for the estate of Hugh de Lacy, and supplying venison for his table. Musbury Valley was at the heart of the deer park, which covered 1,713 acres, and the area was known as Musbury Park. [3]
Although deer parks were very fashionable at the beginning of the 14th century, by the middle of the century many parks were in decline, hastened by the introduction of the Black Death. From 1480 no park-keepers were employed, and in 1507 a survey reported that the park was closed down. The old park area was then divided into eight different holdings, four of which included sections of Musbury valley. [3] : 8–11 The process of enclosing parts of the old park and Musdenhead, at the head of the valley and which had been outside the boundaries of the park, continued through the 16th and 17th centuries. By the first detailed map in the 1840s there were well over 20 farms in the valley. [3] : 19/20
During the period after the decline of the hunting park most people in the valley made a living combining farming and textile making. Raising cattle, sheep, pigs and poultry, and growing a few cereal crops on their land. Inventories in the 17th/early 18th centuries show corn, oats and barley being grown. There is a tradition of illegal Musbury whisky distilling too. In 1881 James Barlow, known as "Musbury Jim" was caught at Hare Clough with a whisky still. He was fined £10. Several farms near Hare Clough were raided by excise men in the 1880s and there are stories of distilling in Musbury throughout the 19th century. [3] : 70–72 The moorland also gave the farming community turbary rights, this being the ability to take peat from the upper moorland peat beds for fuel. Sods of peat could also be used for repairing banks, although stone quarrying meant that walls could be built from the stone taken from the moorland. These dry stone walls are still characteristic of the area. [3] : 26–30
From the 16th to the 18th century, textile production was small-scale and complemented the farming work. Tannery work also developed, tanning leather, and Tan Pits is a name still given to the Helmshore end of the valley. But in the 18th century, the textile industry developed rapidly, with the brook providing a source of water-power. In 1790 the first mill was built at Tan Pits, and others soon joined them. The first mills were used for carding wool, or fulling and finishing woollen cloth, but a change from wool to cotton started soon after 1800. This developed first in Alden Valley, but soon the Turner family began building much larger mills in the Musbury area and by the early 19th century they were one of the largest textile firms, and had several mills in the township of Musbury. William Turner died in 1852, while the Porritt family were developing Sunnybank and for a while, during the cotton famine, things were less secure in the Musbury mills. However, the new owners, the Ashworths, expanded Turner's Middle Mill and were soon employing 200 workers in their mills. [3] : 34–40
The older mills in Musbury began to disappear after 1850, as production switched from the outlying districts to the new village that was growing up in Helmshore, and this pattern continued to be the case. In 1883 the unit of local government known as Musbury was abolished and it became known as Helmshore. During the 20th century the textile industry declined severely, and most of the mills were closed. After WWII the remaining companies pooled resources and opened a research centre which, in 1956 moved across Holcombe Road into a new building, but this finally closed in 1981. [3] : 49–52
The farms at the head of the valley fell in to disuse relatively early, and the Porritt family, who had rights to shoot in the surrounding moorland, built kennels in the garden of Longfield House, which had been built about 1800 by the Worsick family. [4] But in 1929 the Porritts left Helmshore and in 1934 they sold their land – 806 acres – in Musbury valley to the Irwell Valley Water Board. A plan to flood the valley and create a reservoir was developed throughout the 1950s. During this period much of the valley was abandoned and fell into disrepair, but access remained available and so it became a popular picnic and walking area. The reservoir was never built. [3] : 57–61
Heavy rain in July 1964 caused a flood which destroyed much of the brook-side footpath at the bottom of the valley. [4]
On the north-west side of the valley is Musbury Heights. Between 1850 and 1931, this area was an extensive quarry working the Lower Haslingden Flag. It is now disused but has been tidied by the Rossendale Groundwork Valley of Stone project. The ruins of several buildings and a (rebuilt) Scrubbing Mill chimney remain, along with a number of spoil heaps and old workings, including an extensive tramway system, including an incline. The quarry produced mainly road setts (cobbles), kerbstones and flagstones. [5]
The Peak District is an upland area in England at the southern end of the Pennines. Mostly in Derbyshire, it extends into Cheshire, Greater Manchester, Staffordshire, West Yorkshire and South Yorkshire. It includes the Dark Peak, where moorland is found and the geology is dominated by gritstone, and the White Peak, a limestone area with valleys and gorges. The Dark Peak forms an arc on the north, east and west sides; the White Peak covers central and southern tracts. The historic Peak District extends beyond the National Park, which excludes major towns, quarries and industrial areas. It became the first of the national parks of England and Wales in 1951. Nearby Manchester, Stoke-on-Trent, Derby and Sheffield send millions of visitors – some 20 million live within an hour's ride. Inhabited from the Mesolithic era, it shows evidence of the Neolithic, Bronze and Iron Ages. Settled by the Romans and Anglo-Saxons, it remained largely agricultural; mining arose in the Middle Ages. Richard Arkwright built cotton mills in the Industrial Revolution. As mining declined, quarrying grew. Tourism came with the railways, spurred by the landscape, spa towns and Castleton's show caves.
Bacup is a town in the Rossendale Borough in Lancashire, England, in the South Pennines close to Lancashire's boundaries with West Yorkshire and Greater Manchester. The town is in the Rossendale Valley and the upper Irwell Valley, 4 miles (6.4 km) east of Rawtenstall, 6 miles (9.7 km) north of Rochdale, and 7 miles (11 km) south of Burnley. At the 2011 Census, Bacup had a population of 13,323.
The Pennines, also known as the Pennine Chain or Pennine Hills, are a range of uplands running between three regions of Northern England: North West England on the west, North East England and Yorkshire and the Humber on the east. Commonly described as the "backbone of England", the range stretches northwards from the Peak District at the southern end, through the South Pennines, Yorkshire Dales and North Pennines to the Tyne Gap, which separates the range from the Border Moors and Cheviot Hills across the Anglo-Scottish border, although some definitions include them. South of the Aire Gap is a western spur into east Lancashire, comprising the Rossendale Fells, West Pennine Moors and the Bowland Fells in North Lancashire. The Howgill Fells and Orton Fells in Cumbria are sometimes considered to be Pennine spurs to the west of the range. The Pennines are an important water catchment area with numerous reservoirs in the head streams of the river valleys.
Rossendale is a district with borough status in Lancashire, England, located along the River Irwell and spanning a large valley. It is located south of Burnley and east of Blackburn. The borough borders Greater Manchester to the south and borders the boroughs of Bolton, Bury and Rochdale.
Haslingden is a town in Rossendale, Lancashire, England. It is 16 miles (26 km) north of Manchester. The name means 'valley of the hazels' or 'valley growing with hazels'. At the time of the 2011 census the town had a population of 15,969. The town is surrounded by high moorland; 370 m (1215 ft) to the north; 396 m (1300 ft) Cribden to the east; 418 m (1372 ft) Bull Hill to the south.
Ramsbottom is a market town in the Metropolitan Borough of Bury, Greater Manchester, England. The population at the 2011 census was 17,872.
The Irwell Sculpture Trail is the largest public art scheme in England, commissioning regional, national and international artists. The Trail includes 28 art pieces and follows a well established 30-mile (48 km) footpath stretching from Salford Quays through Bury into Rossendale and up to the Pennines above Bacup.
Tottington is a town in the Metropolitan Borough of Bury in Greater Manchester, England, on the edge of the West Pennine Moors.
The Rossendale Valley is in the Rossendale area of Lancashire, England, between the West Pennine Moors and the main range of the Pennines. The area includes the steep-sided valleys of the River Irwell and its tributaries, which flow southwards into Greater Manchester. The rivers cut through the moorland of the Rossendale Hills, generally characterized by open unwooded land, despite the ancient designation of "forest".
The West Pennine Moors is an area of the Pennines covering approximately 90 square miles (230 km2) of moorland and reservoirs in Lancashire and Greater Manchester, England. It is a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
Waterfoot is a historic mill town in the Borough of Rossendale between Rawtenstall and Bacup in Lancashire, England. The B6238 road from Burnley meets the A681 road, and Whitewell Brook the River Irwell.
Haslingden Grane is the glaciated upper portion of the valley of the River Ogden, which lies west of Haslingden and is in the north east section of the West Pennine Moors. To the north is Oswaldtwistle Moor, and to the south Musbury Heights. It was once the home of Grane village, and is easily accessible via the B6232/A6077 Grane Road which links to the M65 motorway and the A56. Grane valley is dominated by its three reservoirs, Holden Wood, Calf Hey and Ogden.
The River Ogden is a minor river in Lancashire, England. It is approximately 4.4 miles (7.1 km) long and has a catchment area of 9.77 square miles (25.298 km2).
Helmshore is a village in the Rossendale Valley, Lancashire, England, south of Haslingden between the A56 and the B6235, 16 miles (26 km) north of Manchester. The population at the 2011 census was 5,805. The housing in Helmshore is mixed, with some two-up, two-down terraces, top-and-bottom houses and a few surviving back-to-back cottages. Between the 1970s and 2020 new housing estates have proliferated.
The South Pennines is a region of moorland and hill country in northern England lying towards the southern end of the Pennines. In the west it includes the Rossendale Valley and the West Pennine Moors. It is bounded by the Greater Manchester conurbation in the west and the Bowland Fells and Yorkshire Dales to the north. To the east it is fringed by the towns of West Yorkshire whilst to the south it is bounded by the Peak District. The rural South Pennine Moors constitutes both a Site of Special Scientific Interest and Special Area of Conservation.
Helmshore Mills are two mills built on the River Ogden in Helmshore, Lancashire. Higher Mill was built in 1796 for William Turner, and Whitaker's Mill was built in the 1820s by the Turner family. In their early life they alternated between working wool and cotton. By 1920 they were working shoddy as condensor mule mills; and equipment has been preserved and is still used. The mills closed in 1967 and they were taken over by the Higher Mills Trust, whose trustees included historian and author Chris Aspin and politician Dr Rhodes Boyson, who maintained it as a museum. The mills are said to the most original and best-preserved examples of both cotton spinning and woollen fulling left in the country that are still operational.
Musbury Tor or Tor Hill is a flat-topped hill in south-east Lancashire, England. It overlooks the village of Helmshore and separates Alden Valley to its south and Musbury Valley to its north. Mainly consisting of farmland and pastures, its summit is 340.1 metres (1,116 ft) above sea level. The hill is a prominent landmark and can be seen from much of Helmshore and is often colloquially referred to as ‘the Tor’ by the local population. 'Tor View' is a name shared by several houses and a local Special School.
The Alden Valley is a small valley on the eastern edge of the West Pennine Moors, west of Helmshore in Rossendale, Lancashire, England. In the 14th century it was part of the Earl of Lincoln's hunting park. By 1840 it was home to about twenty farms, largely involved in cattle rearing, although most inhabitants were also involved with the production of textiles, which quickly developed during the Industrial Revolution into the building of textile mills. These have now been demolished and the valley is dominated by sheep grazing, with three working farms and a number of smallholdings.
Hameldon Hill is a Carboniferous sandstone hill with a summit elevation of 409 metres (1,342 ft), situated between the towns of Burnley and Accrington in Lancashire, England. It is listed as a "HuMP" or "Hundred Metre Prominence", its parent being Freeholds Top, a Marilyn near Bacup.
Broadclough – historically Broad Clough – is a village located to the north of Bacup, previously having been a part of the old borough of Bacup and now with Rossendale borough of Lancashire and part of the Greenclough Ward. It is part of the Rossendale and Darwen constituency, with Jake Berry having been the Member of Parliament since 2010. Like much of Bacup, Broadclough is rapidly becoming a commuter area for cities and towns such as Manchester, Burnley, Accrington, Preston, Blackburn, Rochdale.
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