Chugach State Park covers 495,204 acres (2,004 square kilometers) [1] covering a hilly region immediately east of Anchorage, in south-central Alaska. [2]
Established by legislation signed into law on August 6, 1970, by Alaska Governor Keith Miller, this state park was created to provide recreational opportunities, protect the scenic value of the Chugach Mountains and other geographic features, and ensure the safety of the water supply for Anchorage. [3] The park, managed by Alaska State Parks, is the third-largest state park in the United States, and consists of geographically disparate areas each with different attractions and facilities. [4] Only Anza-Borrego Desert State Park in California and Wood-Tikchik State Park in western Alaska are larger. [4] Though primarily in the Municipality of Anchorage, a small portion of the park north of the Eklutna Lake area in the vicinity of Pioneer Peak lies within the Matanuska-Susitna Borough. [5]
Hunting and fishing are permitted in the Chugach under regulations established by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game for game management unit 14c. [6] [7] Target practice is not allowed within the park boundaries. [6]
The Lakeside Trail travels 12.7 miles (20.4 kilometers) along the shores of Eklutna Lake until it reaches the mile-long Eklutna Glacier Trail that leads in short order to the moraines at the foot of the colossal blue ice of Eklutna Glacier. [8] In the summer, travelers go on foot, by mountain bike, ATV or on horseback, past the lake by way of largely flat trail to the glacier. [8] A traverse with three huts maintained by the Mountaineering Club of Alaska begins at the end of the trail and heads over the tops of the Eklutna, Whiteout, Eagle and Raven glaciers, and ends 31 miles (50 kilometers) away at Crow Pass near Girdwood on the opposite side of the park. [8] In wintertime, trail users are able to travel the same route by snowmobile (snowmachine), snowshoes or cross-country skis as permitted by regulation and weather conditions. [8] As most of the trail is an old roadbed, the trail is a popular winter destination for skijoring and dogsledding. [9] There are two remote campgrounds in the area in addition to a frontcountry campground open during the summer. [8] Two public use cabins are available for rent on the Lakeside Trail. [8] Non-motorized boats, and boats with an electric motor, are allowed on Eklutna Lake. [8] The tallest point in the park, Bashful Peak, towers over the lake at a height of 8,005 feet (2,440 meters). [10] Bush planes are able to land on the far (southern) side of Eklutna Lake at the unpaved Bold Airstrip. [11] North of Eklutna, the southern summit of Pioneer Peak can be reached from Knik River Road via the Pioneer Ridge Trail beginning outside the park boundaries in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough. [12] [13]
Visitors to Eklutna Lake have the opportunity to experience a variety of plant life at different elevations. [8] Dense forests, characteristically of white spruce ( Picea glauca ), paper birch ( Betula papyrifera ) and quaking aspen ( Populus tremuloides ), dominate the lower elevations. [8] [14] Ferns, mushrooms, and wildflowers such as dwarf dogwood ( Cornus canadensis ), fireweed ( Epilobium angustifolium ), and the parasitic northern groundcone ( Boschniakia rossica ) of the broomrape family cover the forest floor. [8] [14] At higher elevations wildflowers such as mountain avens ( Dryas octopetala ) and the Alaska state flower, the alpine forget-me-not ( Myosotis alpestris ), grow in profusion. [8] [14] The alpine milkvetch ( Astragalus alpinus ), bog wintergreen ( Pyrola asarifolia ) and wild geranium ( Geranium erianthum ) predominate on lower slopes, while further up the nootka lupine ( Lupinus nootkatensis ), coastal paintbrush ( Castilleja unalaschcensis ), prickly saxifrage ( Saxifraga tricuspidata ), the poisonous yellow anemone ( Anemone richardsonii ) and eventually the mosses of the tundra will reward hikers. [8] [14] Berry picking is popular in late summer and early fall. [8] Highbush cranberries ( Viburnum edule ), lingonberries ( Vaccinium vitis-idaea ), northern redcurrants ( Ribes triste ) and bog blueberries ( Vaccinium uliginosum ) grow along the lower trails. [8] [14] Dwarf blueberries ( Vaccinium caepitosum ), alpine bearberries ( Arctostaphylos alpina ) and crowberries ( Empetrum nigrum ) are found higher up. [8] [14] Correctly identifying berries before consuming them is important as some species are poisonous. [8]
A non-profit organization in association with the park operates the Eagle River Nature Center which exhibits interpretive information on wildlife and geological features. [1] The basin of the Eagle River can be accessed by the nearby Albert Loop Trail which passes through three miles (five kilometers) of mixed forests and leads to a river fed by glaciers hidden in the surrounding mountains. [1] [16] At those times in the fall when the park's ursine residents are using the area for their fishing purposes, the trail is closed so as to lessen bear-human interactions. [16] In addition, the Rodak Nature Trail leads to a beaver and salmon viewing deck. [16] From the trail red salmon (Oncorhynchus nerka) and silver salmon (Oncorhynchus kisutch) can be seen as they spawn, especially in August. [17] Brown bears (Ursus arctos) and grizzly bears (Ursus arctos ssp.) often feed on salmon in shallow water between the beaver dams. [17] Hundreds of black bears (Ursus americanus) likewise live in the park. [1] Area streams are excellent for birding as well. [17] The American dipper (Cinclus mexicanus) can be seen during the winter months, which birders will also find a successful time to listen for the great horned owl (Bubo virginianus) and boreal owl (Aegolius funereus). [17] Visitors can rent yurts and cabins along the Eagle River in order to spend time out exploring the scenery and wildlife in the area. [18] Camping is available at the Eagle River Campground. [1]
The Historic Iditarod Trail (or Crow Pass Trail) [19] also passes by the nature center. [16] This popular trail travels 28 miles (45 kilometers) through the park connecting Eagle River and Girdwood as it traverses the Chugach Mountains. [20] It affords incredible views and wildlife viewing opportunities. [19] Even along the first view miles, hikers often see hoary marmots (Marmota caligata) and Arctic ground squirrels (Urocitellus parryii), and occasionally mountain goats (Oreamnos americanus) or Dall sheep (Ovis dalli). [19] Hoary marmots live in alpine meadows, often adjacent to boulders or talus. [19] These furry creatures hibernate from mid-September until April or early May. [19] In summer, they can be heard making long whistle warning calls. [19] Mountain goats and their kids and Dall sheep with lambs can be seen feeding on slopes above the trail during the late spring and summer. [19] Although easily mistaken for each other, mountain goats have a fashion edge over sheep—their long leg hairs resemble pantaloons. [19]
The Hillside Trail System lies only 20 minutes east of downtown Anchorage. [21] A privately run shuttle - Flattop Mountain Shuttle - provides round-trip transportation between downtown and the Glen Alps Trailhead. [21] A wheelchair-accessible walk of a mere quarter mile (0.4 kilometers) from the trailhead leads to a sitting area and viewing deck that overlooks the city and rewards visitors with views of the Cook Inlet and the Alaska Range 80 miles (130 kilometers) in the distance. [1] The trailhead is likewise the primary access to Flattop Mountain, the most hiked peak in the state. [22] During the winter some trails in the area are prone to avalanches. [21] Hikers are encouraged to inquire about current conditions before beginning travel in the area. [21] The Powerline Pass Trail is a popular location for dogsledding and skijoring. [9]
Though moose (Alces alces gigas) may be seen along many of the park's trails, a more predictable and convenient spot is the viewing platform at Glen Alps in fall and early winter. [23] Dozens of moose are often seen below the platform and across the Campbell Creek Valley to the east. Wolves (Canis lupus) and Canadian lynx (Lynx canadensis) also live in the park but are seen less frequently. [1] The willow ptarmigan (Lagopus lagopus), Alaska's state bird, as well as the rock ptarmigan (Lagopus muta) and white-tailed ptarmigan (Lagopus leucura) frequent alpine tundra and subalpine shrub thickets. [23] Meadow voles (Microtus pennsylvanicus) by contrast live underground in alpine and tundra habitats. [23] Hikers may hear the chirps of the singing voles (Microtus miurus). During fall, these rodents construct piles of grasses and plants near their burrows. [23]
Smaller mammals inhabiting this area include red foxes, porcupines, hares, ground squirrels, ermines, and pikas. [24]
The Seward Highway follows part of the southern edge of the park along Turnagain Arm. [25] This stretch of highway is listed as a National Scenic Byway and is designated as an All-American Road. [25] Along Seward Highway is park headquarters located at the Potter Section House State Historic Site which once served as an important worker camp for the Alaska Railroad. [1] There are several viewpoints along the Seward Highway. [26] One of the most visited is Beluga Point, at milemarker 110.5, named for the beluga whales (Delphinapterus leucas) that frequent the area. [27] Another popular viewpoint along the Seward Highway is Windy Corner at milemarker 106 where Dall sheep (Ovis dalli) are often visible just up the hill. [26] The McHugh Creek Day use area features hiking trails and picnic areas. [28] The Bird Creek Campground is located south of Anchorage off the Seward Highway. [29] As with all campgrounds in the park, each camping site boasts a wooded spot for recreation and relaxation, a fire ring and picnic table, with potable water and latrines nearby. [29] Park volunteers at campgrounds and elsewhere offer assistance and answer visitor questions. [29] Firewood is often available nearby for a small fee. [29] Though dirt bikes are prohibited, the Bird Valley Trail System is the only location in the park open to ATVs all year round. [30] [31]
Turnagain Arm boasts the second highest tides in North America after the Bay of Fundy. [32] These tides, which can reach 40 feet (12 meters), sometimes come in so quickly that they produce a wave known as a bore tide. [32] Adventurous kayakers and surfers have taken to riding the tide as an extreme sport. [32] Hikers should take care not to get stuck in the quicksand-like mudflats that otherwise make up the beaches along Turnagain Arm. [32] The best place to see the Alaskan bore tide is along Seward Highway south of Anchorage, especially at Bird Point (milemarker 96). [33]
As a wilderness park within easy driving distance of the largest population center in Alaska, the park has been the site of contacts between bears and humans over the years. Most of the time these encounters end peacefully, but there have been a number of maulings. In 1995 a bear was feeding on a moose kill with its cubs near the McHugh Creek trail when two hikers happened upon them. The sow killed them both. In 2007 a grizzly bear bit a woman at the Eagle River Nature Center. In 2012 a man was mauled while climbing Penguin Peak. In 2014 a brown bear mauled a runner at Bird Point. In 2017 there were two bear attacks in different areas of the park in a matter of days. A brown bear mauled three people at Eagle River and a black bear killed a teenager participating in a trail race at Bird Ridge. The black bear attack was deemed to be a predatory, rather than defensive, attack as the bear refused to leave and circled the corpse when it was located by park rangers. [34] [35]
Climate data for Glen Alps, Alaska, 1991–2020 normals: 2202ft (671m) | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Mean daily maximum °F (°C) | 25.7 (−3.5) | 27.3 (−2.6) | 28.7 (−1.8) | 37.9 (3.3) | 48.7 (9.3) | 57.1 (13.9) | 59.3 (15.2) | 57.3 (14.1) | 49.2 (9.6) | 37.7 (3.2) | 29.0 (−1.7) | 26.9 (−2.8) | 40.4 (4.7) |
Daily mean °F (°C) | 19.9 (−6.7) | 21.6 (−5.8) | 22.4 (−5.3) | 32.2 (0.1) | 42.2 (5.7) | 49.9 (9.9) | 53.3 (11.8) | 51.6 (10.9) | 43.7 (6.5) | 32.7 (0.4) | 23.6 (−4.7) | 21.5 (−5.8) | 34.6 (1.4) |
Mean daily minimum °F (°C) | 14.0 (−10.0) | 16.0 (−8.9) | 16.1 (−8.8) | 26.5 (−3.1) | 35.7 (2.1) | 42.8 (6.0) | 47.4 (8.6) | 45.8 (7.7) | 38.2 (3.4) | 27.7 (−2.4) | 18.2 (−7.7) | 16.0 (−8.9) | 28.7 (−1.8) |
Average precipitation inches (mm) | 1.65 (42) | 1.74 (44) | 1.76 (45) | 1.18 (30) | 0.85 (22) | 1.23 (31) | 2.33 (59) | 3.55 (90) | 4.34 (110) | 2.65 (67) | 2.10 (53) | 2.64 (67) | 26.02 (660) |
Average snowfall inches (cm) | 19.50 (49.5) | 21.50 (54.6) | 27.50 (69.9) | 11.70 (29.7) | 3.30 (8.4) | 0.00 (0.00) | 0.00 (0.00) | 0.00 (0.00) | 2.50 (6.4) | 14.40 (36.6) | 23.90 (60.7) | 37.60 (95.5) | 161.9 (411.3) |
Source: NOAA [36] |
The Chugach Mountains of southern Alaska are the northernmost of the several mountain ranges that make up the Pacific Coast Ranges of the western edge of North America. The range is about 250 miles (402 km) long and 60 miles (97 km) wide, and extends from the Knik and Turnagain Arms of the Cook Inlet on the west to Bering Glacier, Tana Glacier, and the Tana River on the east. It is bounded on the north by the Matanuska, Copper, and Chitina rivers. The highest point of the Chugach Mountains is Mount Marcus Baker, at 13,094 feet (3,991 m), but with an average elevation of 4,006 feet (1,221 m), most of its summits are not especially high. Even so, its position along the Gulf of Alaska ensures more snowfall in the Chugach than anywhere else in the world, an annual average of over 1500 cm (800 in).
Cook Inlet stretches 180 miles (290 km) from the Gulf of Alaska to Anchorage in south-central Alaska. Cook Inlet branches into the Knik Arm and Turnagain Arm at its northern end, almost surrounding Anchorage. On its southern end, it merges with Shelikof Strait, Stevenson Entrance, Kennedy Entrance and Chugach Passage.
Turnagain Arm is a waterway into the northwestern part of the Gulf of Alaska. It is one of two narrow branches at the north end of Cook Inlet, the other being Knik Arm. Turnagain is subject to climate extremes and large tide ranges.
Girdwood is a resort town within the southern extent of the Municipality of Anchorage in the U.S. state of Alaska. Located near the end of the Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet, Girdwood lies in a valley in the southwestern Chugach Mountains, surrounded by seven glaciers feeding into a number of creeks, which either converge within the valley or empty directly into the arm. Girdwood is typically accessed by the Seward Highway, with the main line of the Alaska Railroad paralleling the highway. By road distance, most of the community lies within 35 to 40 miles of Downtown Anchorage. The 2019 American Community Survey estimates a population of 1,742 in the valley.
The Seward Highway is a highway in the U.S. state of Alaska that extends 125 miles (201 km) from Seward to Anchorage. It was completed in 1951 and runs through the scenic Kenai Peninsula, Chugach National Forest, Turnagain Arm, and Kenai Mountains. The Seward Highway is numbered Alaska Route 9 (AK-9) for the first 37 miles (60 km) from Seward to the Sterling Highway and AK-1 for the remaining distance to Anchorage. At the junction with the Sterling Highway, AK-1 turns west towards Sterling and Homer. About eight miles (13 km) of the Seward Highway leading into Anchorage is built to freeway standards. In Anchorage, the Seward Highway terminates at an intersection with 5th Avenue, which AK-1 is routed to, and which then leads to the Glenn Highway freeway.
Chugiak is an unincorporated community in the Municipality of Anchorage in the U.S. state of Alaska, situated approximately 20 miles (32 km) northeast of downtown Anchorage.
Eagle River is a community within the Municipality of Anchorage situated on the Eagle River, for which it is named, between Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson (JBER) and Chugach State Park in the Chugach Mountains. Its ZIP code is 99577. Settled by homesteaders, Eagle River has been annexed to the Municipality of Anchorage since the 1970s—a relationship that is, at times, complicated. On the one hand, Eagle River functions as an Anchorage suburb--many Eagle River residents work, shop, and participate in community life in the Anchorage Bowl. On the other hand, the community is itself a significant business hub between Wasilla and Anchorage, offering shopping, restaurants, recreation and employment. Much of the community is made up of residents from nearby Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson. Secession efforts have from time to time gained traction by residents who would like Eagle River legally regarded as a separate community. Eagle River also has a close relationship with its neighboring community to the north, Chugiak, with which it shares some history. If Eagle River were not part of the Municipality of Anchorage, it would be classified as one of the five largest cities in Alaska.
The Chugach National Forest is a 6,908,540-acre (27,958 km2) United States National Forest in south central Alaska. Covering portions of Prince William Sound, the Kenai Peninsula and the Copper River Delta, it was formed in 1907 from part of a larger forest reserve. The Chugach includes extensive shorelines, glaciers, forests and rivers, much of which is untouched by roads or trails. It hosts numerous bird, mammal and marine species, including extensive shorebird habitat and a bald eagle population larger than the contiguous 48 states combined. Human industry in the forest includes extensive tourism and some mining and oil and gas operations.
After congress approved the completion of the Alaska Railroad from Seward to Fairbanks in 1914, it was decided that a new town should be built as a port and rail hub along the route. The decision was made to develop a site near Ship Creek on Cook Inlet. Survey parties visited the area in 1914 and researched possible routes for the rails and options for siting the new town. Anchorage was originally settled as a tent city near the mouth of Ship Creek in 1915, and a planned townsite was platted alongside the bluff to the south. Anchorage was mostly a company town for the Alaska Railroad for its first several decades of existence.
The Municipality of Anchorage is the largest city in the U.S. state of Alaska by population. With a population of 291,247 at the 2020 census, it contains nearly 40 percent of the state's population, and has more people than all of Northern Canada and Greenland combined. The Anchorage metropolitan area, which includes Anchorage and the neighboring Matanuska-Susitna Borough, had a population of 398,328 in 2020, accounting for more than half the state's population. At 1,706 sq mi (4,420 km2) of land area, the city is the fourth-largest by area in the United States and larger than the smallest state, Rhode Island, which has 1,212 sq mi (3,140 km2).
The Portage Glacier Highway, or Portage Glacier Road, is a highway located in the U.S. state of Alaska. The highway is made up of a series of roads, bridges, and tunnels that connect the Portage Glacier area of the Chugach National Forest and the city of Whittier to the Seward Highway. Most of the highway travels through mainly rural areas just north of the Kenai Peninsula, with the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel passing under Maynard Mountain, part of the Chugach Mountain Range. Parts of the route were first constructed in the early 1900s, and the entire highway was completed on June 7, 2000, as part of the Whittier Access Project. The main portion of the highway traveling from the western terminus to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center at Portage Lake is designated as National Forest Highway 35 by the United States Forest Service (USFS).
The Hope Highway, also known as the Hope Road Turnoff, is a Forest Highway located in the Kenai Peninsula Borough, in the U.S. state of Alaska. The highway connects the city of Hope to the Seward Highway, and travels through 17 miles (27 km) of the Chugach National Forest. The road passes the ghost town of Sunrise City and several smaller settlements, remnants of the gold rush that occurred in that area. The highway was created circa 1928 and was designated as Forest Highway 14 by the Federal Highway Administration.
Kenai Mountains – Turnagain Arm National Heritage Area is a federally designated National Heritage Area in the U.S. state of Alaska. The heritage area extends across the northern part of the Kenai Peninsula, immediately to the north and east of Kenai Fjords National Park. The designation recognizes the area's unique cultural, scenic and historical features and provides a unified organization for promotion of the area's attractions.
Bashful Peak is a mountain in the U.S. state of Alaska, located in Chugach State Park. At 8,005 ft (2,440 m), Bashful is the highest peak in Chugach State Park, and the highest peak in the Municipality of Anchorage. The peak carries snow year-round and several small glaciers hang from its steep western face.
Indian is a community in the Municipality of Anchorage, Alaska, United States. It lies in a valley in the Chugach Mountains near the middle of the north shore of the Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet. It is about 24 miles (39 km) southeast of downtown Anchorage and about 3 miles (4.8 km) northwest of Bird, and about 13 miles (21 km) west-northwest of Girdwood.
Eklutna Lake is a 1,424.5 hectares lake in the Municipality of Anchorage, Alaska, near the village of Eklutna. It is located entirely inside Chugach State Park and is about 1 mile (1.6 km) wide and 7 miles (11 km) in length.
Penguin Peak is a 4,331-foot (1,320 m) mountain summit located in the Chugach Mountains, in Anchorage Municipality in the U.S. state of Alaska. The peak is situated in Chugach State Park, 30 mi (48 km) southeast of downtown Anchorage, and 8 mi (13 km) east of the Alyeska Resort and Girdwood area. The peak is the dominant feature along the north shore of Turnagain Arm when traveling the Seward Highway, and the summit offers a good view of Mount Alpenglow, 6 mi (10 km) directly across Turnagain Arm to the south.
Thunderbird falls is a waterfall located in Eklutna, Alaska. It has an elevation of about 100 feet and flows into the Eklutna River. Due to its proximity to Anchorage, about a thirty-minute drive, it is a popular place for tourists and those living nearby. The waterfall is comingled with a 1.6-mile round trip hike to attract people, especially those with young children and tourists, to the falls and the Chugach State Park, where it resides. The path has two main routes with the final destination being the only difference. The easier first route ends at a viewing deck near the top of the falls, whereas the second one is harder to traverse, but will end closer to the bottom of the falls.
Rabbit Creek is one of several streams that flow through the city of Anchorage, Alaska. It runs for 15 miles from the Chugach Mountains to Turnagain Arm. Before English-speaking settlers arrived in Anchorage, the Dena'ina called the creek "Ggeh Betnu."