Gaviota Coast

Last updated

Gaviota Coast
Region
Relief map of California.png
Red pog.svg
Gaviota Coast
Location within California
Coordinates: 34°28′15″N120°13′29″W / 34.47083°N 120.22472°W / 34.47083; -120.22472
Location Santa Barbara County, California
Offshore water bodies Pacific Ocean
Area
 • Total200,000 hectares (490,000 acres)
Dimensions
 • Length76 miles (122 km)
Elevation7 m (23 ft)
[1]
GNIS feature ID1702035 [1]
ZIP codes 93117, 93436

The Gaviota Coast in Santa Barbara County, California is a rural coastline along the Santa Barbara Channel roughly bounded by the city of Goleta on the south and the north boundary of the county on the north. This last undeveloped stretch of Southern California coastline consists of dramatic bluffs, isolated beaches and terraced grasslands.

Contents

History

Sites inhabited in the Paleoindian Period (13,000–8,500 B.P.) have been found through archeological deposits at the mouths of rivers and along the seashore where there was an abundance of food. At least fourteen Chumash villages were located along the coastline including Qasil, Tajiguas, and Shishuchi'i'. [2] [3]

The Spanish began colonizing Alta California with the Portolá expedition of 1769–1770. Much of the area is within several ranchos including the 1794 Spanish land grant, Rancho Nuestra Señora del Refugio and the Mexican land grants, Rancho Punta de la Concepcion (1837), Rancho Cañada del Corral (1841) and Rancho Dos Pueblos (1842).

Near the end of the 1920s, an oil boom started at the Ellwood Oil Field resulting in additional drilling along the coast. During World War II, a Japanese submarine shelled the pier, tanks, and associated equipment. [4] The Bombardment of Ellwood began in the evening of February 23, 1942. A few weeks after the attack on Pearl Harbor, the Continental United States came under attack. A radio address by President Franklin D. Roosevelt was being broadcast when the sub surfaced in the Santa Barbara Channel. [5] No one was hurt but there was damage to an oil pier. The incident created fear, and panic on the West Coast. [6] The Army set up a radar unit where a beach resort had developed in the early 1920s as the automobile age began and the beaches became a popular destination for motorists. After the unit was decommissioned in 1946, the owners sold the property to the state and Refugio State Beach continued as a popular beach getaway. [7] In 1953, the state purchased another private campground and created El Capitán State Beach. [8]

Congress ordered a study in 1999 for a proposed 76-mile-long (122 km) National Seashore from Coal Oil Point at UC Santa Barbara to Point Sal at the northern boundary of Vandenberg Space Force Base. [9] Although the National Park Service found the area suitable with nationally significant natural and cultural resources, [2] the study found the establishment to not be feasible due to local opposition within the approximately 200,000 acres (81,000 ha) study area and the high cost of acquiring land and operating a new park. [10] [11]

Crude oil and natural gas produced by offshore platforms is processed at onshore receiving plants connected to distant refineries by pipelines. The Refugio oil spill on May 19, 2015, immediately north of Refugio State Beach, leaked 142,800 U.S. gallons (3,400 barrels; 541,000 liters) of crude oil out of one of the pipelines. [12]

The proposed Chumash Heritage National Marine Sanctuary began a public comment process in 2021 after a positive review of the nomination submitted by the Northern Chumash Tribal Council. [13] The shoreline would include some coastal landmarks significant to the tribe's heritage as proposed along 156 miles (251 km) of coastline from Gaviota Creek north to Santa Rosa Creek near the town of Cambria, San Luis Obispo County. [14] The proposed marine sanctuary of about 7,600 square miles (20,000 km2) has extensive kelp forests, vast sandy beaches and coastal dunes, and wetlands serving as nursery grounds for numerous commercial fish species and important habitat for many threatened and endangered species. [15] [15]

Alisal Fire

The Alisal Fire ignited in the afternoon of October 11, 2021; it burned 16,970 acres (6,868 ha) and destroyed 12 homes. [16] One of the last blazes of the 2021 California wildfire season, the wildfire broke out near the Alisal Reservoir and strong northwest winds rapidly pushed the fire south through the rugged Los Padres National Forest. [17] The fire grew by hundreds of acres within hours as sundowner winds fanned the flames over the summit of the Santa Ynez Mountains towards the Tajiguas Landfill. [18] Gusting winds up to 70 miles per hour (110 km/h) prevented the dispatch of aircraft that were at the ready. [19] Critically low fuel moisture resulted in very extreme fire behavior during the first two nights. [20] The next day as winds turned more favorable, tanker jets created fire breaks by dispersing fire retardant. Throughout each day, the turnaround was quick as ground crews reloaded the aircraft at the Santa Maria Air Tanker Base. [21] After the fire crossed Route 101 to Tajiguas Beach, it expanded east and west and kept the highway closed for over three days. [22] Commuter and long-distance rail service were also suspended during that period. [23] The state beaches, Gaviota, Refugio, and El Capitán, closed as the firefighters used them for housing, access, and staging. [24] The fire burned the filtration system which uses wood chips at the Tajiguas Landfill and damaged the drainage system, the landfill gas collection system, and some heavy equipment. [25] Crews worked to keep the fire away from buildings on the scattered ranches, the shuttered Exxon Mobil facility in Las Flores canyon, and Rancho del Cielo, the vacation home of President Ronald Reagan and First Lady Nancy Reagan. [26] Freedom Lake, one of two lakes at the ranch, has been used to supply aerial water drops. [27] Four single residences were reported destroyed on October 16, along with two outbuildings that suffered damage. Firefighters prepared for expected higher temperatures and drier winds. [28] The fire was fully contained on November 20. [29] Preparations for potential mudslides, and debris flows began with a team of engineers, scientists, and geologists determining at-risk spots. [30] Highway 101 repair projects included clearing and repairing damaged drainage culverts and installing rock netting on bare hillsides. [31] Volunteer efforts included efforts to help the native vegetation grow back where bulldozers had created fire lines. [32]

Geography

Situated on a narrow coastal terrace between a rugged coastline and the Santa Ynez Mountains which parallels the coast along its entire length with the north end of the mountain range diverging into two low ridges, separated by Jalama Creek, which then vanish into the Pacific Ocean just before reaching Lompoc. The Santa Ynez River flows just north of the mountains, paralleling them for most of their length. Much of the mountain range is within the Los Padres National Forest, [33] With the Mediterranean climate, the unusual abundance and diversity of wildlife includes an estimated 1,400 plant and animal species. [9] The Santa Ynez Mountains are a migration corridor for wildlife from the large interior region of California. Wildlife includes mountain lions, black bears, badgers, golden eagles, and the California condor. [34] The mountains parallel the Channel Islands to the south, another east–west trending range which is a geologic extension of the Santa Monica Mountains.

The coastal waters are considered unique for the biodiversity of ocean life. [35] [36] The unusual species found here are the result of the cold water from the north meeting the warm water from the south. [37] The annual migration of about 19,000 Gray whales through the Santa Barbara Channel may come as close as 100 feet (30 m) from the shoreline. [37] The marine environment has extensive kelp forests and wetlands serving as nursery grounds for numerous commercial fish species and important habitat for many threatened and endangered species. [15] The Gaviota Creek watershed is the largest watershed along this coast and is the most important steelhead stream in Southern Santa Barbara County. [38] Refugio Creek is one of the larger coastal streams along the coast and descends through a mosaic of commercial orchards, ranches, and rural residential developments and crosses under Highway 101 before flowing into the Pacific Ocean. [39]

Resource utilization and protection

The narrow coastal terrace is primarily used for recreation and cattle grazing. [33] The county adopted a coastal land use plan in 1982 that was consistent with their policies and development standards to preserve the natural scenic beauty. [40] Protected areas along US 101 include three public beaches with campgrounds and hiking trails: Gaviota State Park,  El Capitán State Beach, and Refugio State Beach. [41] There are also several private campgrounds. [42] There are several marine protected area off the coast: Point Conception State Marine Reserve, Naples State Marine Conservation Area, and Kashtayit State Marine Conservation Area.

The lightly populated area has large ranches with much of the land held in agricultural preserves under the Williamson Act and used for avocado, lemon and other fruit orchards. [43] Dos Pueblos, a 214-acre ranch (87 ha), was subdivided as Naples, but remained undeveloped. [44] The ranch is within Rancho Dos Pueblos, a 15,535-acre (62.87 km2) Mexican land grant, stretching between the Goleta Slough and the boundary of El Capitan State Beach. [45] [46] Dos Pueblos Institute uses the ranch as an outdoor classroom teaching sustainable agriculture and provides Chumash bands with a place for ceremonies. [47] The Cultured Abalone Farm, which is situated on the ranch, is partnering with the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History Sea Center and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Southwest Fisheries Science Center on the White Abalone Restoration Consortium, which is studying this endangered marine snail and restoring the wild populations. They are also collaborating in developing curriculum to educate the next generation about sustainable aquaculture and conservation. [48]

Hollister Ranch has six beaches but they are difficult for the public to access. [49] Some of the ranches are also luxury estates. [50] El Rancho Tajiguas is a 3,600 acres (1,500 ha) working ranch that was developed with two luxury homes over a period of 40 years under the ownership of Mansour Ojjeh. [51] [52] The 1,800 acres (730 ha) Las Varas Ranch was purchased by Charlie Munger and donated to the University of California, Santa Barbara in 2018. [53]

The area was one of the earliest locations in California developed for offshore oil and gas production. Crude oil and natural gas are produced from offshore platforms. The Hondo and Harmony oil rigs can be easily seen offshore in front of the Channel Islands in the Santa Barbara Channel from the highway or railroad. [54] Local land use agencies have kept oil processing facilities to a minimum while the oil and gas are processed at onshore receiving plants before being transported to distant refineries.

The Strauss Wind Farm, consisting of twenty-seven windmills atop rolling hills near the ocean, powered up in 2023. The first wind power complex on the California coast is about 3.5 miles (5.6 km) southwest of Lompoc, the nearly 3,000-acre site (1,200 ha) includes IdentiFlight, a way to identify approaching raptors and temporarily stop the turbines before the raptors enter rotor range, as red-tailed hawks are common here. [55]

The remote coastline is used as a landing for human and drug smuggling from Mexico. [56] [57]

Transportation

US 101 northbound approaching Gaviota Tunnel through the Santa Ynez Mountains UShwy101GaviotaRestArea.png
US 101 northbound approaching Gaviota Tunnel through the Santa Ynez Mountains

US 101 and the main coastal railroad line both parallel the coastline atop the coastal bluff with train trestles crossing the stream beds that cut through the slope. [58] A 2023 study showed the need to improve wildlife corridors by fixing culverts to accommodate larger species such as mule deer and mountain lion. [59] The 21-mile-long (34 km) section of US 101 from the north boundary of Goleta to State Route 1 at Las Cruces is designated by the state as a scenic highway. [60] While the highway turns inland at Gaviota State Park, the coastal bluff section of the rail line is longer at 30 miles (48 km) traversing areas mostly inaccessible to the public. [61] [62] A 2.5-mile (4.0 km) section of the California Coastal Trail was built within Gaviota State Park. [63] [64] An Interim alignment for a section of the trail from Guadalupe to the state park is under study. [65] [66] These routes follow Chumash and Spanish Period trails. [2]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Santa Barbara County, California</span> County in California, United States

Santa Barbara County, officially the County of Santa Barbara, is located in Southern California. As of the 2020 census, the population was 448,229. The county seat is Santa Barbara, and the largest city is Santa Maria.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ventura County, California</span> County in California, United States

Ventura County is a county located in the southern part of the U.S. state of California. As of the 2020 census, the population was 843,843. The largest city is Oxnard, and the county seat is the city of Ventura.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Santa Barbara, California</span> City in California, United States

Santa Barbara is a coastal city in Santa Barbara County, California, of which it is also the county seat. Situated on a south-facing section of coastline, the longest such section on the West Coast of the United States excepting Alaska, the city lies between the steeply rising Santa Ynez Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. Santa Barbara's climate is often described as Mediterranean, and the city has been dubbed "The American Riviera". According to the 2020 U.S. Census, the city's population was 88,665.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Conejo Valley</span> Region in Southern California, United States

The Conejo Valley is a region spanning both southeastern Ventura County and northwestern Los Angeles County in Southern California, United States. It is located in the northwestern part of the Greater Los Angeles Area.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gaviota State Park</span> State park in Gaviota, California, United States

Gaviota State Park is a state park of California, United States. It is located in southern Santa Barbara County, California, about 33 miles (53 km) west of the city of Santa Barbara. One of three state parks along the Gaviota Coast, it extends from the Pacific coast to the crest of the Santa Ynez Mountains, and is adjacent to Los Padres National Forest. The 2,787-acre (1,128 ha) park was established in 1953.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hollister Ranch</span> Undeveloped coastal area on the Gaviota coast

Hollister Ranch is a 14,400-acre (58 km2) gated residential community amidst a working cattle ranch on the Gaviota Coast in Santa Barbara County, California. The dramatic bluffs, isolated beaches and terraced grasslands are within the last undeveloped stretch of Southern California coastline. The fallow and fertile fields, mountains and valleys include some of the oldest known human settlements in the new world, the last native population of which was the Chumash. The Spanish Portolà expedition, the first European land explorers of California, traveled along its coast in 1769. It became part of the extensive Spanish land grant known as Rancho Nuestra Señora del Refugio, operated by the family of José Francisco Ortega from 1794.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Los Padres National Forest</span> National forest in California, United States

Los Padres National Forest is a United States national forest in southern and central California. Administered by the United States Forest Service, Los Padres includes most of the mountainous land along the California coast from Ventura to Monterey, extending inland. Elevations range from sea level to 8,847 feet (2,697 m).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">El Capitán State Beach</span> State park in California, United States

El Capitán State Beach is a protected beach in the state park system of California. The most easterly of three state parks along the Gaviota Coast, it is located about 20 miles (32 km) west of downtown Santa Barbara, in Santa Barbara County. The beach is named for José Francisco Ortega, who retired from the Spanish Army in 1795 with the rank of captain and received the Rancho Nuestra Señora del Refugio as a land grant.

The Rancho Nuestra Señora del Refugio was a 74,000-acre (300 km2) Spanish land grant to José Francisco Ortega in 1794 and is the only land grant made under Spanish and confirmed by USA in 1866 to Jose Maria Ortega under the US Supreme Court rule in what is today Santa Barbara County, California. A Mexican title was granted to Antonio Maria Ortega in 1834 by Mexican Governor José Figueroa. The grant extended along the Pacific coast from Cojo Canyon east of Point Conception, past Arroyo Hondo and Tajiguas Canyon, to Refugio Canyon, including what is now Gaviota Coast.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Refugio State Beach</span> State beach in Santa Barbara County, California


Refugio State Beach is a protected state beach park in California, United States, approximately 20 miles (32 km) west of Santa Barbara. One of three state parks along the Gaviota Coast, it is 2.5 miles (4.0 km) west of El Capitán State Beach. During the summer months, the Junior Life Guard program resides at the beach during the day.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wilder Ranch State Park</span> State park in Santa Cruz County, California, United States

Wilder Ranch State Park is a California State Park on the Pacific Ocean coast north of Santa Cruz, California. The park was formerly a dairy ranch, and many of the ranch buildings have been restored for use as a museum. There are no campgrounds; a day-use parking lot provides access to the museum. Dogs are prohibited on the trails, but many trails allow bikes and/or horses. The long trails and ocean views make the area a favorite of hikers, equestrians and mountain bikers. Public beaches continue to the north in Coast Dairies State Park.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cuyama Valley</span> Valley along the Cuyama river in California

The Cuyama Valley is a valley along the Cuyama River in central California, in northern Santa Barbara, southern San Luis Obispo, southwestern Kern, and northwestern Ventura counties. It is about two hours driving time from both Los Angeles and the Santa Barbara area.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of Santa Barbara, California</span>

The history of Santa Barbara, California, begins approximately 13,000 years ago with the arrival of the first Native Americans. The Spanish came in the 18th century to occupy and Christianize the area, which became part of Mexico following the Mexican War of Independence. In 1848, the expanding United States acquired the town along with the rest of California as a result of defeating Mexico in the Mexican–American War. Santa Barbara transformed then from a small cluster of adobes into successively a rowdy, lawless Gold Rush era town; a Victorian-era health resort; a center of silent film production; an oil boom town; a town supporting a military base and hospital during World War II; and finally it became the economically diverse resort destination it remains in the present day. Twice destroyed by earthquakes, in 1812 and 1925, it was rebuilt after the second one in a Spanish Colonial style.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ellwood Oil Field</span> Partially active, adjoining Goleta, California

Ellwood Oil Field and South Ellwood Offshore Oil Field are a pair of adjacent, partially active oil fields adjoining the city of Goleta, California, about twelve miles (19 km) west of Santa Barbara, largely in the Santa Barbara Channel. A richly productive field in the 1930s, the Ellwood Oil Field was important to the economic development of the Santa Barbara area. A Japanese submarine shelled the area during World War II. It was the first direct naval bombardment of the continental U.S. since the Civil War, causing an invasion scare on the West Coast.

Tajiguas was a Native American village of the Chumash people located on the Gaviota Coast in the County of Santa Barbara, California in the United States.

Naples State Marine Conservation Area (SMCA) is a marine protected area that protects Naples Reef which is about three-quarters of a mile offshore along the middle of the pristine and rural Gaviota Coast in Santa Barbara County on California’s south coast. The SMCA covers 2.58 square miles. The MPAs protects marine life by limiting the removal of wildlife from within its borders.

Point Conception State Marine Reserve (SMR) is a marine protected area that extends offshore of Point Conception on the Gaviota Coast in Santa Barbara County, California. The SMR covers 22.51 square miles (58.3 km2). The SMR prohibits the take of all living marine resources.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Refugio oil spill</span> 2015 pipeline leak on the coast of California

The Refugio oil spill on May 19, 2015, contaminated one of the most biologically diverse areas of the West Coast of the United States with 142,800 U.S. gallons of crude oil. The corroded pipeline that caused the spill closed indefinitely, resulting in financial impacts to the county estimated as high as $74 million as it and a related pipeline remained out of service for three years. The cost of the cleanup was estimated by the company to be $96 million with overall expenses including expected legal claims and potential settlements to be around $257 million.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sherpa Fire</span> 2016 wildfire in California

The Sherpa Fire was a wildfire that burned in the Santa Ynez Mountains along the Gaviota Coast in the southwestern part of Santa Barbara County, California in June 2016. In a matter of hours the fire spread to over 1,400 acres (570 ha) as the fire was propelled by downslope sundowner winds. This offshore northerly wind contrasts with the more typical onshore flow and sent the fire down the canyons towards the ocean with gusts of over 35 miles per hour (56 km/h). The wildfire resulted in evacuations at two state beach campgrounds and some residences together with intermittent interruption of traffic on a state transportation route.

The Jack and Laura Dangermond Preserve is a nature reserve in Santa Barbara County California managed by The Nature Conservancy. The land is host to a variety of wildlife species, as it touches two major terrestrial and two major marine biomes. Animals from both southern and northern California mix territories in this area.

References

  1. 1 2 U.S. Geological Survey Geographic Names Information System: Gaviota Beach
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  48. ↑ Mason, Dave (September 15, 2021). "Learning first-hand about conservation". Santa Barbara News-Press. Archived from the original on January 8, 2022. Retrieved January 8, 2022.
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  54. ↑ Staff/Roadside Attractions (May 6, 2008). "Drivers can/t miss view of oil platforms". Lompoc Record . Archived from the original on November 1, 2023. Retrieved September 17, 2020.
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  56. ↑ Bolton, Tom (March 13, 2020). "Marijuana, Cannabis Oil Seized as Panga Boat Intercepted on Gaviota Coast". Noozhawk. Archived from the original on July 21, 2021. Retrieved July 21, 2021.
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