Goldwork (embroidery)

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Goldwork
Skirt (AM 1944.51-1).jpg
Mamianqun ornamented with Chinese goldwork and embroideries, a traditional skirt of the Han Chinese, Qing dynasty
TypeOrnamental gold in textile and fabric
MaterialTypically gold thread or gold imitation thread on a textile foundation
Place of originAsia
IntroducedAsia, Middle East, Europe

Goldwork is the art of embroidery using metal threads. It is particularly prized for the way light plays on it. The term "goldwork" is used even when the threads are imitation gold, silver, or copper. The metal wires used to make the threads have never been entirely gold; they have always been gold-coated silver or cheaper metals, and even then the "gold" often contains a very low percent of real gold. Most metal threads are available in silver and sometimes copper as well as gold; some are available in colors as well.

Contents

Goldwork is always surface embroidery and free embroidery; the vast majority is a form of laid work or couching; that is, the gold threads are held onto the surface of the fabric by a second thread, usually of fine silk. The ends of the thread, depending on type, are simply cut off, or are pulled through to the back of the embroidery and carefully secured with the couching thread. A tool called a mellore or a stilleto is used to help position the threads and create the holes needed to pull them through. The threads most often have metal or gold leaf wound around a textile thread, or threads treated with an adhesive and rolled in powdered gold or other metal.

Goldwork was originally developed in Asia, and has been used for at least 2000 years. Its use reached a remarkable level of skill in the Middle Ages, when a style called Opus Anglicanum was developed in England and used extensively in church vestments and hangings. After this period it was also used frequently in the clothing and furnishings of the royalty and nobility throughout Europe, and still later on military and other regalia. The same silver and gold thread were also used heavily in the most expensive tapestries, especially during the Renaissance. Goldwork is currently a fairly uncommon skill, even among embroiderers who work in other free embroidery styles; it is now most commonly used for the highest-quality church vestments and art embroidery. It has always been reserved for occasional and special use only, due both to the expense of the materials and time to create the embroidery, and because the threads no matter how expertly applied will not hold up to frequent laundering of any kind.

Embroidered goldwork is distinct from the even more luxurious cloth of gold, where similar gold threads are woven through the whole piece of textile. Such gold textiles are similarly ancient, perhaps older, being mentioned in the Old Testament of the Bible. [1] Evidence exists for the use of woven (not embroidered) gold thread around the Mediterranean and Western Asia as early as the 4th century BCE, as fillets, ribbons, and bands or borders applied to garments. [2]

History

Goldwork was originally developed in Asia, and has been used for at least 2000 years. In China, it possibly dates back to the Shang dynasty (c.1570 BC – c.1045 BC) according to archaeological studies, [3] but was certainly in use by the Eastern Han dynasty (25 to 220 AD). [3]

It had reached ancient Rome soon after 189 BC, initially made in Pergamum (modern Bergama in Western Turkey). King Attalus I probably established large state workshops there, and the gold-embroidered cloth was known as "Attalic" cloth. Pliny the Elder credited Attalus I with inventing the technique, but this is most unlikely. [4] The toga picta , worn by generals in their Roman triumphs, and later consuls and emperors, was dyed solid purple, decorated with imagery in gold thread, and worn over a similarly-decorated tunica palmata.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was generally reserved for garments of the nobility and church hangings and vestments, and as a luxury technique survived from ancient times in the Middle Ages. It featured significantly in Byzantine dress and church textiles, and was sometimes worn by musicians and servants in uniform. [5] When illiteracy was common and thus written materials had less impact, "images and the visual realm [had] more power over the senses and the mind. ... The pomp and circumstance created by the awe-inspiring use of metal threads in church work was observed keenly by kings and emulated where possible. [6] :214

China

A style of Mangfu, used as court dress in the Qing dynasty, embroidered with gold and silk metallic thread, late 1700s WLA ima mans formal court robe chaopao.jpg
A style of Mangfu, used as court dress in the Qing dynasty, embroidered with gold and silk metallic thread, late 1700s

In China, gold embroidery is a traditional Chinese craft with a long history which was originally used in the imperial palaces and temples. [7] Chinese goldwork, including application of gold leaf, gold powder, gold thread (as embroidery or as woven textile with the exception of Nasīj) in clothing and textile, as well as the silver-work version, originated in ancient China and was used at least since the Eastern Han dynasty (25 to 220 AD) or prior, [3] with possible usage in the Shang dynasty (c. 1570 BC – c. 1045 BC). [3] Since the Zhou dynasty (c.1046 to 256 BC), Chinese embroidery had been used as a social class marker. [7] In China, embroidery in gold was found on imperial and ceremonial dress, [8] :3 and religious dress, [7] and other textile objects. Chinese goldwork often used red silk threads for couching, adding a warmer tone to the embroidery. [9] :22

One of the two important branches of Chinese gold embroidery is the Chao embroidery which was developed in Chaozhou, Guangdong province since the Tang dynasty (618 to 907 AD) and the gold- and silver-coloured embroidery of Ningbo, which mostly uses gold and silver metallic threads. [7]

Europe

Goldwork embroidery on an English court uniform The 7th Marquess of Cholmondeley Allan Warren (cropped).jpg
Goldwork embroidery on an English court uniform
Section of a 15th-century English chasuble Opus Anglicanum (Chasuble) MET cl1982.432.R.jpg
Section of a 15th-century English chasuble

Gold embroidery is attested in the Mycenean and Wessex bronze age culture dating back to 1700 BC although it was only used for weapons. [10] The record of gold embroidery extends far back in English history. Thomas of Ely noted the Abbess of Ely, St. Etheldrada, who died in 679, was adept at embroidering goldwork and made St. Cuthbert a stole and maniple richly embroidered in gold and adorned with gems. [11] :7–8 Embroidery was thought to be a fitting activity for noblewomen, both those within and outside of convents. [11] :8

Goldwork, Spain, 20th century Senor de la Sentencia -detail.JPG
Goldwork, Spain, 20th century

By late antiquity golden silk embroidery technology was introduced to Europe from Asia. [12]

Goldworken silk thread technology were also adopted by Italian weavers. [3] Italian centers of silk production (Lucca, Venice, Florence, and Milan) producing cloth of gold started appearing after the Crusades. [13] Even after golden silk thread was produced for millennia in Europe, golden silk thread was still associated with its origins in China. [13] The producing of gold cloth became common in Europe, such as France and Italy by the 16th century. [13]

Goldwork, Belgium, 19th century St Laurentius-olv mantel.jpg
Goldwork, Belgium, 19th century
Old pattern of a traditional Nordic Sami peoples metal embroidery collar, Asele in Sweden. Silver or Pewter tread is most commonly used for the Folk Costume embroidery Sami Metal Embroidery Male Collar Aasele Sweden 1920.jpg
Old pattern of a traditional Nordic Sami peoples metal embroidery collar, Åsele in Sweden. Silver or Pewter tread is most commonly used for the Folk Costume embroidery

After this period it was also used frequently in the clothing and furnishings of the royalty and nobility throughout Europe, and still later on military and other regalia. [14] The Imperial and Ecclesiastical Treasury in Vienna displays vestments decorated with accomplished Or nué in the form of saints. [15] :9

Or nué ('shaded gold') is a special technique invented in the 15th century, wherein many threads of passing or Japan thread are laid down parallel and touching. By varying the spacing and color of the couching stitches, elaborate, gleaming images can be created. This is commonly used to depict the garments of saints in church embroidery. [16]

South Asia

The use of goldwork in South Asia predates the arrival of the Greeks in 365–323 BC. Metal thread embroidery in the subcontinent uses precious and semiprecious stones and wire in distinctive ways. [9] :25 It is certain that the use of gold and silver embroideries, known as zari, was used in South Asia in the 15th century. [17] Gold thread which was made out of beaten metal strips wrapped around a silk core was introduced in the subcontinent from Singapore. [18]

Contemporary goldwork

Goldwork is currently a fairly uncommon skill, even among embroiderers who work in other free embroidery styles; it is now most commonly used for the highest-quality church vestments and art embroidery. It has always been reserved for occasional and special use only, due to both the expense of the materials and the time to create the embroidery, and because the threads will usually not hold up to frequent laundering of any kind.

Types of metal thread

Emperor Pedro II of Brazil in full regalia, 1872 Pedro Americo - D. Pedro II na abertura da Assembleia Geral.jpg
Emperor Pedro II of Brazil in full regalia, 1872

A variety of threads exists, in order to create differing textures.

In addition, paillettes or spangles (sequins of real metal), small pieces of appliqued rich fabric or kid leather, pearls, and real or imitation gems are commonly used as accents, and felt or string padding may be used to create raised areas or texture. Silk thread work in satin stitch or other stitches is often combined with goldwork, and in some periods goldwork was combined with blackwork embroidery as well.

See also

Related Research Articles

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Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to stitch thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on hats, clothing, blankets, and handbags. Embroidery is available in a wide variety of thread or yarn colour. It is often used to personalize gifts or clothing items.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crewel embroidery</span> Type of embroidery using wool

Crewel embroidery, or crewelwork, is a type of surface embroidery using wool. A wide variety of different embroidery stitches are used to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chain stitch</span> Type of embroidery stitch

Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. Chain stitch is an ancient craft – examples of surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to the Warring States period. Handmade chain stitch embroidery does not require that the needle pass through more than one layer of fabric. For this reason the stitch is an effective surface embellishment near seams on finished fabric. Because chain stitches can form flowing, curved lines, they are used in many surface embroidery styles that mimic "drawing" in thread.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Korean embroidery</span> Embroidery style of Korea

Korean embroidery techniques and artifacts have a long history, but there is the most evidence from the Joseon Dynasty, after the 14th century in Korea. This article talks about the history, styles, preservation, artists, and examples of screens, costumes, and domestic wares of this exacting and beautiful art form.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Armenian needlelace</span>

Armenian needlelace is a pure form of needle lace made using only a needle, thread and pair of scissors.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Backstitch</span> Versatile stitch

Backstitch or back stitch and its variants stem stitch, outline stitch and split stitch are a class of embroidery and sewing stitches in which individual stitches are made backward to the general direction of sewing. In embroidery, these stitches form lines and are most often used to outline shapes and to add fine detail to an embroidered picture. It is also used to embroider lettering. In hand sewing, it is a utility stitch which strongly and permanently attaches two pieces of fabric. The small stitches done back-and-forth makes the back stitch the strongest stitch among the basic stitches. Hence it can be used to sew strong seams by hand, without a sewing machine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Opus Anglicanum</span> Fine needlework of Medieval England

Opus Anglicanum or English work is fine needlework of Medieval England done for ecclesiastical or secular use on clothing, hangings or other textiles, often using gold and silver threads on rich velvet or linen grounds. Such English embroidery was in great demand across Europe, particularly from the late 12th to mid-14th centuries and was a luxury product often used for diplomatic gifts.

Persian embroidery is a type of Persian art and handicraft.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cloth of gold</span> Rich Medieval fabric woven with gold thread or a combination of gold and silk

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cutwork</span> Needlework technique

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Satin stitch</span> Flat embroidery stitch

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Couching</span> Technique of embroidery stitch

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidery thread</span> Any of several types of thread designed for use in embroidery and related crafts

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Sermeh embroidery, also known as Sormeh embroidery, is an Iranian ancient-style of embroidery. Its origin dates back to the Achaemenid dynasty. It reached its zenith in the Safavid Dynasty. In this style of embroidery, gold and silver threads would be used to make decorating patterns on the surface of fabric; however, nowadays, almost entirely, threads twisted out of cheaper metals and alloys and metal like yarns have replaced gold and silver. The yarn used in patterning is springlike and elastic. Sermeh embroidery is the most popular in the cities of Isfahan, Yazd, Kashan.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Islamic embroidery</span> Embroidery styles of the Islamic world

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidered binding</span> Codex decorative book binding

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Colcha embroidery</span> Form of surface embroidery found in the southwest United States

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Chinese ornamental gold silk is a type of silk fabric which employs gold as ornamentation; Chinese ornamental gold silk originated in China and have a long history in China. Gold and silk were precious goods; the combination of both in textiles created one of the most valuable commodities. Several gold-ornamental techniques can be summarized as: gold foil, gold powder, and gold thread technique.

References

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  2. Brøns, Cecilie (2022). "All that glitters is gold: Golden textiles in the ancient Mediterranean". In Susanna Harris; Cecilie Brøns; Marta Żuchowska (eds.). Textiles in Ancient Mediterranean Iconography. Oxbow Books. pp. 121–138. doi: 10.2307/j.ctv2npq9bb.13 . ISBN   978-1-78925-721-2. JSTOR   j.ctv2npq9bb.13.
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 Hu, Xiaorui; Yu, Weidong (2016). "The Techniques and Origin of Ornamental Gold Silks in Ancient China". Journal of Fiber Science and Technology. 72 (6): 132–138. doi: 10.2115/fiberst.2016-0020 . ISSN   2189-7654.
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  7. 1 2 3 4 Chen, Daiyu (2022). Goldwork embroidery Chinese style : an illustrated stitch guide. Shanghai Press. ISBN   978-1-938368-65-3. OCLC   1259509389.
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  13. 1 2 3 Zorach, Rebecca; Phillips, Michael W. (2016). Gold : Nature and Culture. London: Reaktion Books. ISBN   978-1-78023-613-1. OCLC   963575483. The gold thread that was the basis for gold cloth was formed around threads of silk, which though it had been produced in Europe for almost a millennium by this time, was still associated with its origins in China. Silk in general and golden textiles in particular were still associated with the aura of Eastern brilliance; pattern textiles made in Europe still mimicked Persian and Chinese models.
  14. Lemon, Jane, Metal Thread Embroidery, Sterling, 2004, ISBN   0-7134-8926-X
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Further reading