County seat of the Stewarts, Lords Londonderry and Castlereagh
The original property, Mount Pleasant, was purchased with neighbouring estates in 1744 by Alexander Stewart (1699–1781). Exceptionally for an aspiring member of the landed Ascendancy, the Stewarts did not conform to the established (Anglican) church. They were Presbyterians, farmers and linen merchants whose fortunes had been transformed by Alexander's marriage to the sister and heiress of Robert Cowan, the East India CompanyGovernor of Bombay.[1]
As fellow Presbyterians, the Stewarts appeared to the county's enfranchised forty-shilling freeholders as "friends of reform", and on that basis Mount Stewart rivalled Hillsborough Castle, seat of the Earls (later Marquesses) of Downshire, for control of the county's two parliamentary seats. In the increasingly troubled 1790s, Mount Stewart quietly converted to Anglicanism and stilled the contest, agreeing with Hillsborough that each should return a member to the parliament in Dublin unopposed.[2]
In 1787, writing to her brother William Drennan (a disappointed supporter of the Stewarts' electoral ambitions, later to be targeted by Castlereagh as a United Irishman), Martha McTier described visiting Mount Stewart, and meeting "with no one thing worth notice, unless great wall pounds are so – much expense, no taste, every thing unfinished and dirty, grand plans for the future, nothing pleasant nor even comfortable at present".[6]
Commensurate with the family's rising fortunes, Castlereagh moved to realise some of these plans. In 1803, he choose the architect George Dance to design a Classical Regency replacement of the west wing with new receptions rooms.[7] A number of the present furnishings reflect Castlereagh's career, including a portrait of the French emperor,[8] and chairs elaborately embroidered for the delegates who redrew the map of Europe at Vienna.[9]
In the Year of Liberty, 1798
During the three-day "Year of Liberty"[10] in Ards and north Down, 10 to 13 June 1798,[11] Mount Stewart was briefly occupied by the United Irish insurgents.[12] In the wake of the courts-martial that followed, the wife of the local Presbyterian minister, James Porter, appeared at the house with her seven children to plead for his life. Together with her younger sister, Lady Elizabeth, then dying of tuberculosis, Lady Londonderry was tearfully persuaded. (She had often received Porter at Mount Stewart[13][14] and in correspondence with the United Irishwoman Jane Greg had referred to herself as a "republican countess").[15] But Londonderry was to see to it that Porter, convicted on uncertain evidence of having consorted with the rebels, was hung outside his church and home at Greyabbey.[14][16]
Other offenders (David Bailie Warden who commanded the local rebels in the field,[17] and the Reverend Thomas Ledlie Birch who urged them to "drive the bloodhounds of King George, the German king, beyond the seas"),[18] were allowed American exile.[19] Porter's offence may have been to have serially lampooned Londonderry in a popular satire of the landed interest, Billy Bluff. Porter caricatured the master of Mount Stewart as Lord Mountmumble, an inarticulate tyrant who has a dog shot for the temerity of barking.[14][20]
Irish country seat of the Vane-Tempest-Stewarts
Spanish garden
Castlereagh inherited his father's title in 1821, but within the year took his own life. The next owner of the house was his half-brother, Charles, 3rd Marquess of Londonderry (1778–1854) who had served as ambassador to Vienna and Berlin. He married Lady Frances Anne Vane-Tempest, the greatest heiress of her time, in appreciation of which he styled himself Robert Vane and ordered a further enlargement of the house replacing what remained of its 18th century fabric.
Controversially in 1847, while spending £15,000 on the refurbishment, the Marquess of Londonderry gave just £30 to local soup kitchens for famine relief,[21][22] and as the hunger persisted rejected rent reductions. Despite reports of general distress, he insisted that only most "supine and inert" among this tenantry could "be suffering in any serious degree under the failure of the potato".[23] This was in contrast to his wife's management of her estate in Antrim. Even as she embarked upon of the construction a castellated summer residence(Garron Tower), the Marchioness not only reduced the rents of her tenants, but in dire cases of potato blight, waived them altogether.[24]
The Famine-era remodelling created the present exterior of Mount Stewart. The original Georgian building and the small portico on the west wing were demolished and the house was increased to eleven bays. On the entrance front, a huge portico was added in the centre, and a smaller 'half portico' was added to the other side.[25]
In 1854, the Emperor Louis Napoleon was among the subscribers who helped raise a memorial tower to the 3rd Marquess north of Mount Stewart at Scrabo.[26]
Lady Londonderry (Theresa Chetwynd-Talbot) was valued for her family and political connections in England. In 1903, at Mount Stewart, she had hosted Edward VII and Queen Alexandra.[29] She also proved an effective organiser, helping build the UUWC into a mass organisation,[30] and in the preparation of an armed resistance to a Dublin parliament, the Ulster Volunteers to whom she offered Mount Stewart as a potential infirmary and triage site.[29]
At the height of the Home Rule Crisis, the German Emperor had occasion to refer to the Marchioness's gardens. Meeting the unionist leader Sir Edward Carson at a luncheon at Bad Homburg in August 1913, the Kaiser remarked that having seen a photograph of the gardens, he believed that they must be very beautiful. When Carson (who once proposed that he was "born to lounge and enjoy" himself at Mount Stewart)[31] affirmed that indeed they were, the Kaiser warmed to his theme. The management of gardens is very like that of states. But Britain had done little to cultivate the unity of its empire, so that when he had asked his grandmother, Queen Victoria, leave to visit Ireland she had refused him. "Perhaps she thought I would steal the little place." When after the general laughter he persisted with questions on Ulster, Carson adroitly changed the subject. Through the gardens of Mount Stewart the Kaiser had been probing intelligence that in the event of a European war conflict in Ireland might stay Britain's hand.[32]
Host to Hitler's ambassador
In 1921, the 7th Marquess, Charles Vane-Tempest-Stewart, (1878–1949) accepted office as Minister of Education in the unexpected fruit of unionist agitation, the new home-rule Parliament of Northern Ireland. In 1935, his larger ambitions in London were dashed when he was forced to resign as Air Minister. Despite having preserved the core of the RAF when it was under attack from the Treasury, critics believed he was one of an aristocratic circle of "appeasers".[33][34][35] At Mount Stewart it was a suspicion Londonderry appeared to confirm when, following on a visit to Hitler in Berlin, in May 1936 he entertained the German Ambassador to London, Joachim von Ribbentrop. Ribbentrop is reported to have landed in Newtownards with a "noisy gang of SS men" and the four-day visit became a national newspaper story.[36]
The house retains a memento of this private diplomacy: an Allach porcelain figurine of an SS Fahnenträger (SS flag bearer.,[37] A gift from ReichmarshallHermann Göring, after the outbreak of war it was neither destroyed nor removed.[38][39] With talk of his internment, Londonderry retreated to Mount Stewart where, following a series of debilitating strokes, he died in 1949.[40][41] Flanked by statues of four Irish saints, he is buried in the estate's family graveyard.[33]
The ancestral home of the 7th Marchioness of Londonderry, Edith Halen Chaplin, was Dunrobin Castle in Scotland and it was that house's gardens which inspired her reworking of those at Mount Stewart with themed plantings (the Italian, Spanish, and Mairi gardens) and the Dodo Terrace with its whimsical statuary[42] (Ribbentrop described the effect as "paradise").[33] Rather than enter her gardens through a house door she would dive in and out of a sash window, followed by her dogs – of which there were 14 at one time, ranging from deer hound to Pekinese.[43] Lady Edith also redesigned and redecorated much of the interior, for example, the huge drawing room, the Castlereagh Room, the smoking room (whose mantelpiece displayed the Fahnenträger) and many of the guest bedrooms. She named the latter after European cities including Rome and Moscow.[28]
Donation to the National Trust
The last châtelaine of the house (and the last surviving child of the 7th Marquess), Lady Mairi Bury (née Vane-Tempest-Stewart, Viscountess Bury), gave the house, and most of its contents to the National Trust in 1977, together with a capital endowment partly funded by the sale in 1977, by Lady Mairi, of Giovanni Bellini's painting "The Madonna and Child with a male Donor, a landscape beyond" which had hung over the altar in the chapel at Mount Stewart (having formerly been at Londonderry House, London). Lady Mairi, born in the house, was the last Londonderry family member to live full time at Mount Stewart, and the last member of this Anglo-Irish family to live full time in Ireland. She died at Mount Stewart on 18 November 2009, at the age of 88, in the same four poster bed, hung with red silk damask, that she had been born in.[44][45][46]
On Lady Bury's death, her daughter Lady Rose Lauritzen, wife of art historian Peter Lauritzen, became the live-in family member.[47]
National Trust property
The National Trust took over the house and gardens in 1977. The Trust operates the property under the name "Mount Stewart House, Garden & Temple of the Winds".
In 1999, the Mount Stewart Gardens were added to the United Kingdom "Tentative List" of sites for potential nomination as a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site.[48]
In 2015, the National Trust completed an extensive restoration of the house and its contents as well as the purchase of 900 acres (360 hectares) of the wider estate, thus re-uniting it, and plan[needs update] to open for visitor access.[49]
House
The present house is largely a legacy of the 3rd Marquess, who beginning in the 1830s refurbished and extended the original 18th century structure along neo-classical lines. The main entrance was shifted to the centre of the new north façade, with a large Ionic columnedporte-cochère. Two domes were introduced, one placed in the centre of the roof to light the new full height main hall, and another to light a full height room to the immediate south of this.[50]
Portions of what are now Lady Londonderry's sitting room, the music room, the Castlereagh room and the staircase were left untouched, but a new suite of rooms was added.[50] Of these the principal is the Drawing Room, which looks out onto the main gardens and, before the building along the shore of the A20, would have had a view of Strangford Lough. The house's private chapel, with stained glass windows and Italian murals, was added after the death of 3rd Marquess in 1854, and in his memory.
The National Trust refurbishment, completed in 2015, sought to restore the interiors to how they appeared in the 1950s when the house belonged to Lady Edith, the seventh Marchioness.[49] An exception is the Ionic-columned octagonal main hall, where the chequered stone floor laid by the 3rd Marquess has been uncovered and restored.[51]
Mount Stewart Gardens
The lake at Mount Stewart
After further alterations to house's interior, the 7th Marchioness, redesigned the gardens a lavish style that took advantage of the sub-tropical local climate. As Lady Edith discovered, Mount Stewart under the general influence of the North Atlantic Drift, on the Ards Peninsula Mount Stewart enjoys mild and humid island conditions, allowing tropical plants to thrive.[52]
Prior to her husband's succession to the Marquessate in 1915 the gardens had been plain lawns with large decorative pots. She added the Shamrock Garden, the Sunken Garden, increased the size of the lake, added a Spanish Garden with a small hut, the Italian Garden, the Dodo Terrace with its 'menagerie' of cement animals, the Fountain Pool and laid out walks in the Lily Wood and rest of the estate.[53] Lady It was she who first realised the benefits of the sub-tropical local climate. The Gulf Stream feeds Strangford Lough. The area is frost-free and, as Lady Edith discovered, Mount Stewart enjoys island conditions, the atmosphere is humid and, in hot weather, there are heavy dews at night. Tender tropical plants thrive here and many greenhouse varieties have been planted outside with impressive results.In 1957, she gave the gardens to the National Trust.[54]
Characteristically luxuriant planting contained within formally clipped edging
Estate
Mount Stewart Lake, October 2015The Temple of the Winds
The present-day estate of Mount Stewart extends to 950 acres (380ha) with a large lake and many monuments and farm buildings.
Many country houses in the UK had adaptations of the 'temples' their owners had seen on their tours of the Mediterranean. The temple is similar to structures at Shugborough and West Wycombe Park, both National Trust properties.[57][58]
Use as filming location
The house was used as a location for the third series of the BBC children's TV series The Sparticle Mystery.[59]
Robert Stewart, 2nd Marquess of Londonderry,, usually known as Lord Castlereagh, derived from the courtesy title Viscount Castlereagh by which he was styled from 1796 to 1821, was an Irish-born British statesman and politician. As secretary to the Viceroy in Ireland, he worked to suppress the Rebellion of 1798 and to secure passage in 1800 of the Irish Act of Union. As the Foreign Secretary of the United Kingdom from 1812, he was central to the management of the coalition that defeated Napoleon, and was British plenipotentiary at the Congress of Vienna. In the post-war government of Lord Liverpool, Castlereagh was seen to support harsh measures against agitation for reform, and he ended his life an isolated and unpopular figure.
Robert Stewart, 1st Marquess of LondonderryPC (Ire) (1739–1821), was a County Down landowner, Irish Volunteer, and member of the parliament who, exceptionally for an Ulster Scot and Presbyterian, rose within the ranks of Ireland's "Anglican Ascendancy." His success was fuelled by wealth acquired through judicious marriages, and by the advancing political career of his son, Viscount Castlereagh. In 1798 he gained notoriety for refusing to intercede on behalf of James Porter, his local Presbyterian minister, executed outside the Stewart demesne as a rebel.
Marquess of Londonderry, of the County of Londonderry, is a title in the Peerage of Ireland.
Charles William Vane, 3rd Marquess of Londonderry,, was an Anglo-Irish nobleman, a British soldier and a politician. He served in the French Revolutionary Wars, in the suppression of the Irish Rebellion of 1798, and in the Napoleonic wars. He excelled as a cavalry commander in the Peninsular War (1807–1814) under John Moore and Arthur Wellesley.
Charles Stewart Henry Vane-Tempest-Stewart, 7th Marquess of Londonderry,, styled Lord Stewart until 1884 and Viscount Castlereagh between 1884 and 1915, was a British peer and politician. He is best remembered in Great Britain for his tenure as Secretary of State for Air in the 1930s and for his attempts to reach an understanding with Nazi Germany. In 1935, he was removed from the Air Ministry but retained in the Cabinet as Lord Privy Seal and Leader of the House of Lords. In Ireland, especially within Ulster, Lord Londonderry is best remembered for his opposition to Home Rule for Ireland in the early twentieth century.
The Ards Peninsula is a peninsula in County Down, Northern Ireland, on the north-east coast of Ireland. It separates Strangford Lough from the North Channel of the Irish Sea. Towns and villages on the peninsula include Donaghadee, Millisle, Portavogie and Portaferry. The large towns of Newtownards and Bangor are at the mainland edge of the peninsula. Burr Point is the easternmost point on the island of Ireland.
Frederick William Robert Stewart, 4th Marquess of Londonderry, styled Viscount Castlereagh from 1822 to 1854, was a British nobleman and Tory politician. He was briefly Vice-Chamberlain of the Household under Sir Robert Peel between December 1834 and April 1835.
Edward Charles Stewart Robert Vane-Tempest-Stewart, 8th Marquess of Londonderry,, styled Lord Stewart until 1915 and Viscount Castlereagh between 1915 and 1946, was a British peer and politician.
Edith Helen Vane-Tempest-Stewart, Marchioness of Londonderry, DBE was a noted and influential society hostess in the United Kingdom between World War I and World War II, a friend of the first Labour prime minister, Ramsay MacDonald. She was a noted gardener and a writer and editor of the works of others.
Greyabbey or Grey Abbey is a small village, townland and civil parish located on the eastern shores of Strangford Lough, on the Ards Peninsula in County Down, Northern Ireland.
George Henry Robert Charles William Vane-Tempest, 5th Marquess of Londonderry, KP, styled Viscount Seaham between 1823 and 1854 and known as The Earl Vane between 1854 and 1872, was a British aristocrat, businessman, diplomat and Conservative politician.
Londonderry House was an aristocratic townhouse situated on Park Lane in the Mayfair district of London, England. The mansion served as the London residence of the Marquesses of Londonderry. It remained their London home until 1962. In that year, Londonderry House was sold by the Trustees of the 7th Marquess of Londonderry's Will Trust to a developer who built the "Londonderry Hotel" on the site, not the Hilton. The Hilton Hotel is on the other side of the street, and had already been opened. COMO Metropolitan London now occupies the site of Londonderry House.
Amelia Anne Stewart, Marchioness of Londonderry, nicknamed "Emily" and, from 1794 until 1821 generally known as Lady Castlereagh, was the wife of the Georgian-era Anglo-Irish statesman Robert Stewart, Viscount Castlereagh, who from 1812 to 1822 was British Foreign Secretary and Leader of the House of Commons. Well-connected by birth to the aristocracy and wife of a prominent politician who was Britain's leading diplomat during the close of the Napoleonic Wars, Lady Castlereagh was an influential member of Regency London's high society.
Frances Anne Vane, Marchioness of Londonderry was an Anglo-Irish heiress and noblewoman. She was the daughter of Sir Henry Vane-Tempest, 2nd Baronet. She married Charles William Stewart, 1st Baron Stewart. She became a marchioness in 1822 when Charles succeeded his half-brother as 3rd Marquess of Londonderry.
Charles Stewart Vane-Tempest-Stewart, 6th Marquess of Londonderry,, styled Viscount Castlereagh between 1872 and 1884, was a British Conservative politician, landowner and benefactor, who served in various capacities in the Conservative administrations of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. After succeeding his father in the marquessate in 1884, he was Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland between 1886 and 1889. He later held office as Postmaster General between 1900 and 1902 and as President of the Board of Education between 1902 and 1905. A supporter of the Protestant causes in Ulster, he was an opponent of Irish Home Rule and one of the instigators of the formal alliance between the Conservative Party and the Liberal Unionists in 1893.
Alexander Stewart was an Irish landowner who grew rich by inheriting a fortune from Robert Cowan, a former governor of Bombay. His son Robert became the 1st Marquess of Londonderry.
Nicolette Elaine Katherine Powell, formerly Nicolette Vane-Tempest-Stewart, Marchioness of Londonderry, was an English socialite, married firstly to the 9th Marquess of Londonderry and later to the musician Georgie Fame.
Lady Mary Elizabeth "Mairi" Bury, known between 1942 and 1958 as Viscountess Bury, was a Northern Irish politician, gardener, aviator, and philatelist.
Frances Stewart, Marchioness of Londonderry, was an English aristocrat and mistress of a large landed and politically connected household in late Georgian Ireland. From her husband's mansion at Mount Stewart, County Down, in the 1790s her circle of friends and acquaintances extended to figures engaged in the democratic politics of the United Irishmen. Correspondence with her stepson, Robert Stewart, Viscount Castlereagh, and with the English peer and politician John Petty, record major political and social developments of her era.
Theresa Susey Helen Vane-Tempest-Stewart, Marchioness of Londonderry was a British socialite and political hostess. She was a leading Unionist campaigner against Irish Home Rule, serving as president of the Ulster Women's Unionist Council from 1913 to 1919. She was said to be one of the most "dominating feminine personalities" of the time and was referred to as the "Queen of Toryism" and a "highwaywoman in a tiara."
References
↑ Bew, John (2011). Castlereagh: Enlightenment, War and Tyranny. London: Quercus. pp.6–7. ISBN978-0-85738-186-6.
↑ Brendan, Clifford, ed. (1991). Billy Bluff and the Squire [1796] and Other Writing by Re. James Porter. Belfast: Athol Books. pp.12–13. ISBN978-0-85034-045-7.
↑ "No. 13922". The London Gazette. 10 August 1796. pp.781, right column. To Robert Lord Viscount Castlereagh, and the Heirs Male of his Body lawfully begotten, by the Name Stile and Title of Earl of Londonderry, of the County of Londonderry
↑ Courtney, Roger (2013). Dissenting Voices: Rediscovering the Irish Progressive Presbyterian Tradition. Belfast: Ulster Historical Foundation. pp.133–134. ISBN978-1-909556-06-5.
↑ quoted by J. C. Robb, Sunday Press, 1 May 1955. The source is not given.
↑ McClelland, Aiken (1964). "Thomas Ledlie Birch, United Irishman"(PDF). Belfast Natural History and Philosophical Society (Sessions 161/62-1963/64). Second Series, 7. Retrieved 18 November 2020.
↑ Kineally, Christine (2013). Charity and the Great Hunger in Ireland: The Kindness of Strangers. London: Bloomsbury. p.53. ISBN978-1-4411-1758-8
↑ Parkhill, Trevor. ""Chivalrous rather than administrative": the carrier of the third marquess of Londonderry, soldier, diplomat, landlord.". In Blackstock, Alan; Magennis, Eoin (eds.). Politics and Political Culture in Britain and Ireland, 1750-1850. Belfast: Ulster Historical Foundation. pp.164–165. ISBN9781903688687.
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