Bhavani Jamakkalam

Last updated

Bhavani Jamakkalam
Geographical indication
Jamakalam.jpg
Bhavani Jamakkalam
Description Blankets and carpets manufactured in Bhavani
Type Handicraft
Area Bhavani, Tamil Nadu
Country India
Registered2005-06
Material Cotton

Bhavani Jamakkalam refers to blankets and carpets manufactured in Bhavani in Erode district, Tamil Nadu. [1] [2] It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2005-06. [3]

Contents

History

In the late nineteenth century, competition from British made textiles led Indian weavers to invent new types of garments. [2] In Bhavani, a community of weavers called Jangamars weaved a type of blanket using colored coarse threads called Jamakkalam. [4] The popularity of the product led to the production of jamakkalams by other weavers replacing the production of traditional sarees and other cloths. [4]

Types

Two types of jamakkalams are produced in Bhavani. [5] The first type is made from coarser cotton threads capable of producing carpets with colored bands. [5] As the thread was coarser, designs could not be weaved on to this type of carpet. [5] Hence, a second softer variety of jamakkalams were introduced that were made of artificial silk threads enabling weavers to weave different kinds of border designs. [5] Jamakkalams are also used to make fashion products such as backpacks. [6]

Community

Traditionally, jamakkalams were weaved by independent weavers in their houses. [7] Later it moved into a system where jamakkalam is weaved by weavers on hand-looms supervised by master weavers. [8] The master weavers lease hand-looms and contract weavers. The hand-looms are owned by trade merchants who procure raw materials such as thread from neighboring cities of Coimbatore, Salem and Karur. [9] About 1500 workers are involved in the production of jamakkalams with women forming two-thirds of the work force. [10]

Weaving loom

A pit loom is used to weave jamakkalams. [10] The looms are made of wood with the threads stretched horizontally from end to end. [10] The weaver sits in a pit dug in the ground, on level with the weaving surface. [10] The weaver operates two pedals with his legs while enabling the hands to move the shuttle across to produce the weaving pattern. [10]

Exports

The jamakkalams manufactured in Bhavani are exported to various countries such as Sweden, Germany, Italy, U.K., U.S. and Singapore. [11] In 1993, Swedish major IKEA started procuring jamakkalams from Bhavani to be sold across its stores. [11]

Competition

Since the 2000s, the hand weaved jamakkalams from Bhavani have faced competition from power-loom products. [12] The Government of Tamil Nadu offers subsidy to weavers and has enacted laws to outlaw the use of power-looms. [12] The government also sells the blankets through government run Co-optex stores. Competition from blankets produced in Solapur, Maharashtra and cheap imports from neighbors China, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka has resulted in drop in demand for Bhavani jamakkalams. [12]

Geographical Indication

In 2005, the Government of Tamil Nadu applied for Geographical Indication for Bhavani jamakkalams. [13] The Government of India recognized it as a Geographical indication officially since the year 2005-06. [3]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Loom</span> Device for weaving textiles

A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Weaving</span> Technology for the production of textiles

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques that can be done without looms.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carpet</span> Textile floor covering

A carpet is a textile floor covering typically consisting of an upper layer of pile attached to a backing. The pile was traditionally made from wool, but since the 20th century synthetic fibers such as polypropylene, nylon, or polyester have often been used, as these fibers are less expensive than wool. The pile usually consists of twisted tufts that are typically heat-treated to maintain their structure. The term carpet is often used in a similar context to the term rug, but rugs are typically considered to be smaller than a room and not attached to the floor.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Persian carpet</span> Term for a handmade carpet from Iran

A Persian carpet or Persian rug, also known as Iranian carpet, is a heavy textile made for a wide variety of utilitarian and symbolic purposes and produced in Iran, for home use, local sale, and export. Carpet weaving is an essential part of Persian culture and Iranian art. Within the group of Oriental rugs produced by the countries of the "rug belt", the Persian carpet stands out by the variety and elaborateness of its manifold designs.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jamdani</span> Traditional weaving art of Bangladesh

Jamdani is a fine muslin textile produced for centuries in South Rupshi of Narayanganj district in Bangladesh on the bank of Shitalakhwa river.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bhavani, Tamil Nadu</span> Town in Tamil Nadu, India

Bhavani is a Municipality in Erode District, Tamil Nadu, India. It is located at the northern periphery of Erode City Municipal Corporation and is around 105 km (65 mi) from Coimbatore and 60 km (37 mi) from Tiruppur and Salem. Bhavani is also known as "Carpet City" as it is known for its carpet industry; blankets and carpets manufactured in the town are known as Bhavani Jamakkalam. As of 2011, the town covers an area of 2.17 square kilometres (0.84 sq mi) and has a population of 39,225. It is a grade II municipality.

Kavindapadi, also known as Kavundapadi, is located in Erode District of Tamil Nadu, India which is one of the major producers of sugar in India. It is also famous for its agriculture, producing the lump sum amount of sugarcane and bananas to the people of Tamil Nadu. Kavindapadi is located on the way of Erode to Sathyamangalam.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sengunthar</span> Hindu caste of Kaikolar warriors and textile merchants

Sengunthar, also known as the Kaikolar and Senguntha Mudaliar is a caste commonly found in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and the neighboring country Sri Lanka. In Andhra Pradesh, they are known as Kaikala or Karikala Bhaktulu, who consider the early Chola emperor Karikala Chola as their hero. They were warriors by ancient heritage and traditional weavers, Textile merchants by occupation They were part of the Chola army as Kaikola regiment and were dominant during the rule of Imperial Cholas, holding commander and minister positions in the court. Ottakoothar, 12th century court poet and minister of Cholas under Vikrama Chola, Kulothunga Chola II, Raja Raja Chola II reign belong to this community. In the olden days in India, the Sengunthars were warriors and were given the title Mudaliar for their bravery. In early thirteenth century, after the fall of Chola empire large number of Kaikolars migrated to Kongu Nadu from Tondaimandalam and started doing weaving as their full time profession as they sworn to be soldiers only for Chola emperors. At present, most of the textile businesses in Tamil Nadu are owned by Senguntha Mudaliars. Majority of Sengunthars are sub-divided into numerous clans based on a patrilineal lineage known as Koottam or Gotra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silk in the Indian subcontinent</span> Overview about silk in the India subcontinent

Silk In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority of silk production. Another emerging silk producer is Tamil Nadu in the place in where mulberry cultivation is concentrated in Salem, Erode and Dharmapuri districts. Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and Gobichettipalayam, Tamil Nadu were the first locations to have automated silk reeling units.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

The textile industry in Salem, especially the handloom industry, is one of the most ancient cottage industries in Salem district of Tamil Nadu, India. Salem was one of the primary handloom centers of south India. Sari, dhoti and angavasthram are made out of silk yarn and cotton yarn. In the recent past, home furnishing items are also woven, mainly for export purposes. More than 75,000 handlooms are working and the total value of cloth produced per annum is estimated at Rs.5,000 crores

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kanchipuram silk sari</span> Type of silk saree made in Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu, India

The Kanchipuram silk sari is a type of silk sari made in the Kanchipuram region in Tamil Nadu, India. These saris are worn as bridal & special occasion saris by most women in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka & Andhra Pradesh. It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2005–2006.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silk weaving in Varanasi</span> Overview of manufacturing of silk saris in Varanasi

Silk weaving is a manufacturing industry in Varanasi. Varanasi is known throughout India for its production of very fine silk and Banarasi saris.

Kovai Cora cotton or Kovai Kora cotton is a type of cotton saree made in the Coimbatore region in Tamil Nadu, India. It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2014–15.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kandangi</span> Type of cotton sari from Tamil Nadu, India

Kandangi is a type of cotton saree from the Chettinad region of the Indian state of Tamil Nadu. It was declared as a Geographical indication in 2019–20.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wangkhei phee</span>

Wangkhei Phee is a textile fabric made of white cotton. It is a product which is protected under the GI registration and is made throughout the Indian state of Manipur and is woven by women. The fabric is transparent, has many designs on its body, and is popularly worn by women of Manipur for marriage ceremonies and other festive occasions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kashmiri handicrafts</span> Traditional art of Kashmir, India

Kashmiri handicrafts is a traditional art of Kashmiri people and artisans who make, craft, and decorate objects by hand. Ganderbal, and Budgam are the main districts in central Kashmir which have been making handicrafts products since ages. The rest of its districts, including Srinagar, Ganderbal, and Budgam are best known for their cultural heritage which includes the handicraft industry in Jammu and Kashmir, India. Embroidery is an integral part of many Kashmiri handicrafts, shawls, carpets and Kashmiri ladies pheran are adorned with intricate embroideries or flower styles made of thin metal threads and this kind of embroidery is known as 'Tille' in Kashmiri language. Embroidery work is done by both men in women in the region conventionally.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kasaragod saree</span>

A Kasaragod saree is a type of traditional cotton sari made by weavers belonging to the Saliya community in the Kasaragod district of Kerala. They are handmade and durable. They are distinct from the traditional Kerala sari and exhibit influences of neighboring Karavali styles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Erode Turmeric</span> Type of turmeric

Erode Turmeric or Erodu Manjal is a type of turmeric, a spice category which is grown in the Erode region of Tamil Nadu, India. It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2019. Erode turmeric is known for its high curcumin (>90%).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Department of Handlooms, Handicrafts, Textiles and Khadi (Tamil Nadu)</span> Government department of Tamil Nadu state, India

The Department of Handlooms, Handicrafts, Textiles and Khadi is one of the departments of Government of Tamil Nadu.

References

  1. Parry; Breman; Kapadia. The worlds of Indian industrial labour. p. 380.
  2. 1 2 de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 42.
  3. 1 2 "Geographical indications of India". Government of India. Archived from the original on 26 August 2013. Retrieved 28 June 2015.
  4. 1 2 de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 43.
  5. 1 2 3 4 de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 87.
  6. "When passion met fashion". The Hindu . 13 April 2014.
  7. de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 167.
  8. de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 45.
  9. de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 44.
  10. 1 2 3 4 5 de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 86.
  11. 1 2 Assayag, Fuller. Globalizing India: Perspectives from Below. p. 93.
  12. 1 2 3 "No takers for Erode blankets". Deccan Chronicle . 31 March 2013.
  13. "GI tag: TN trails Karnataka with 18 products". Times of India . 29 August 2013.

Bibliography