Canezou

Last updated

The Canezou (aka Canezou-fichu), c. 1835, is a type of clothing, generally worn alongside a corsage.[ clarification needed ]

Canezou Canezou.tif
Canezou

Canezous were originally[ when? ] short jackets similar to spencers. Over time, they evolved into a sleeveless, sideless form, which was called a "fichu-canezou." It was almost always tucked into a belt, and was made of white material. [1]

The name "Canezou", is a corruption of the French term "Quinze Août" meaning 15 August. According to Victor Hugo, in his work Les Misérables, this "signifies good weather, heat and noon".

In 1852, the canezou appeared[ where? ] to take the place of dainty lace and embroidered capes. This type of clothing allowed there to be "a happy medium between high and low corsages". [2]

In The Royal Lady's Magazine, there are various references to the canezou: "The corsage for morning dress is generally made plain, and over it the light and elegant canezou is seen, in numberless varieties of form and texture, at once rich and graceful...An elegant canezou of moiree, colour, the evening primrose, and edged with a rich silk fringe is worn with this dress. Colerette of tulle, interspersed with rays of gauze ribbon, the same colour as the canezou." [3]

In Godey's magazine, Volume 2, the canezou is described thus: "...over the coursage is worn an elegantly worked muslin canezou, with double joke, falling very low over the sleeves; on each shoulder is placed a bow of gauze riband, similar in colour and pattern to that which trims the cap; gold bracelets, worked in the oriental style" [4]

In Harper's Magazine, Volume 15, the canezou is describes in the following way: "This very pretty outdoor dress for a young lady, is composed of tarletan, with a canezou of black tulle gathered upon black satin bands and edged with double lace. The sleeves are large and puffed, and are caught up with a naud of black satin ribbon" [5]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1860s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1860s

1860s fashion in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by extremely full-skirted women's fashions relying on crinolines and hoops and the emergence of "alternative fashions" under the influence of the Artistic Dress movement.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1890s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1890s

Fashion in the 1890s in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by long elegant lines, tall collars, and the rise of sportswear. It was an era of great dress reforms led by the invention of the drop-frame safety bicycle, which allowed women the opportunity to ride bicycles more comfortably, and therefore, created the need for appropriate clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bodice</span> Article of clothing or portion thereof for women and girls

A bodice is an article of clothing traditionally for women and girls, covering the torso from the neck to the waist. The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves. The name bodice is etymologically an odd plural spelling of "body" and comes from an older garment called a pair of bodies.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Evening gown</span> Womans dress usually worn to a semi-formal or formal affair

An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from ballerina, tea, to full-length. Such gowns are typically worn with evening gloves. Evening gowns are usually made of luxurious fabrics such as chiffon, velvet, satin, organza, etc. Silk is a popular fibre for many evening gowns. Although the terms are used interchangeably, ball gowns and evening gowns differ in that a ball gown will always have a full skirt and a fitted bodice, while an evening gown can be any silhouette—sheath, mermaid, fit and flare, A-line, or trumpet-shaped—and may have straps, halters or even sleeves.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1840s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1840s

1840s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a narrow, natural shoulder line following the exaggerated puffed sleeves of the later 1820s and 1830s. The narrower shoulder was accompanied by a lower waistline for both men and women.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1850s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1850s

1850s fashion in Western and Western-influenced clothing is characterized by an increase in the width of women's skirts supported by crinolines or hoops, the mass production of sewing machines, and the beginnings of dress reform. Masculine styles began to originate more in London, while female fashions originated almost exclusively in Paris.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1550–1600 in Western European fashion</span> Costume in the second half of the 16th century

Fashion in the period 1550–1600 in Western European clothing was characterized by increased opulence. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation remained prominent. The wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders had reached its peak in the 1530s, and by mid-century a tall, narrow line with a V-lined waist was back in fashion. Sleeves and women's skirts then began to widen again, with emphasis at the shoulder that would continue into the next century. The characteristic garment of the period was the ruff, which began as a modest ruffle attached to the neckband of a shirt or smock and grew into a separate garment of fine linen, trimmed with lace, cutwork or embroidery, and shaped into crisp, precise folds with starch and heated irons.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1750–1775 in Western fashion</span> Clothing in Europe and areas under its influence from 1750-1775

Fashion in the years 1750–1775 in European countries and the colonial Americas was characterised by greater abundance, elaboration and intricacy in clothing designs, loved by the Rococo artistic trends of the period. The French and English styles of fashion were very different from one another. French style was defined by elaborate court dress, colourful and rich in decoration, worn by such iconic fashion figures as Marie Antoinette.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1600–1650 in Western European fashion</span> Costume in the first half of the 17th century

Fashion in the period 1600–1650 in Western European clothing is characterized by the disappearance of the ruff in favour of broad lace or linen collars. Waistlines rose through the period for both men and women. Other notable fashions included full, slashed sleeves and tall or broad hats with brims. For men, hose disappeared in favour of breeches.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1820s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1820s

During the 1820s in European and European-influenced countries, fashionable women's clothing styles transitioned away from the classically influenced "Empire"/"Regency" styles of c. 1795–1820 and re-adopted elements that had been characteristic of most of the 18th century, such as full skirts and clearly visible corseting of the natural waist.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1650–1700 in Western European fashion</span>

Fashion in the period 1650–1700 in Western European clothing is characterized by rapid change. The style of this era is known as Baroque. Following the end of the Thirty Years' War and the Restoration of England's Charles II, military influences in men's clothing were replaced by a brief period of decorative exuberance which then sobered into the coat, waistcoat and breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a half. In the normal cycle of fashion, the broad, high-waisted silhouette of the previous period was replaced by a long, lean line with a low waist for both men and women. This period also marked the rise of the periwig as an essential item of men's fashion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1700–1750 in Western fashion</span> Clothing in Europe and areas under its influence from 1700-1750

Fashion in the period 1700–1750 in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by a widening silhouette for both men and women following the tall, narrow look of the 1680s and 90s. This era is defined as late Baroque/Rococo style. The new fashion trends introduced during this era had a greater impact on society, affecting not only royalty and aristocrats, but also middle and even lower classes. Clothing during this time can be characterized by soft pastels, light, airy, and asymmetrical designs, and playful styles. Wigs remained essential for men and women of substance, and were often white; natural hair was powdered to achieve the fashionable look. The costume of the eighteenth century, if lacking in the refinement and grace of earlier times, was distinctly quaint and picturesque.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1500–1550 in Western European fashion</span> Costume in the first half of the 16th century

Fashion in the period 1500–1550 in Western Europe is marked by very thick, big and voluminous clothing worn in an abundance of layers. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation became prominent. The tall, narrow lines of the late Medieval period were replaced with a wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders. Sleeves were a center of attention, and were puffed, slashed, cuffed, and turned back to reveal contrasting linings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1400–1500 in European fashion</span> Costume in the years 1400-1500

Fashion in 15th-century Europe was characterized by a series of extremes and extravagances, from the voluminous robes called houppelandes with their sweeping floor-length sleeves to the revealing doublets and hose of Renaissance Italy. Hats, hoods, and other headdresses assumed increasing importance, and were draped, jewelled, and feathered.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1900s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the decade 1900–1909

Fashion in the period 1900–1909 in the Western world continued the severe, long and elegant lines of the late 1890s. Tall, stiff collars characterize the period, as do women's broad hats and full "Gibson Girl" hairstyles. A new, columnar silhouette introduced by the couturiers of Paris late in the decade signaled the approaching abandonment of the corset as an indispensable garment.

This is a list of existing articles related to fashion and clothing. For individual designers, see List of fashion designers

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1775–1795 in Western fashion</span> Western fashion throughout the late 1700s

Fashion in the twenty years between 1775 and 1795 in Western culture became simpler and less elaborate. These changes were a result of emerging modern ideals of selfhood, the declining fashionability of highly elaborate Rococo styles, and the widespread embrace of the rationalistic or "classical" ideals of Enlightenment philosophes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Poffer</span>

The poffer, toer or North Brabantian hat is a traditional female folk headdress of North Brabant, most famous of the Meierij of 's-Hertogenbosch and of northern Limburg, Netherlands. The poffer was worn only by married women. It was fashionable between the 1860s and the 1920s. In contrast to Zeeland and the more northern parts of the Netherlands, in North Brabant and Limburg there was never any distinctive folkloric costume worn by either men or women, making the poffer the only folkloric garment in this part of the Netherlands.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pamela hat</span> Straw hat

The Chapeau à la Paméla, Pamela hat or Pamela bonnet described a type of straw hat or bonnet popular during the 1790s and into the first three quarters of the 19th century. It was named after the heroine of Samuel Richardson's 1741 novel Pamela; or, Virtue Rewarded. While Pamela hats and bonnets underwent a variety of changes in shape and form, they were always made from straw. The mid-19th-century version of the Pamela hat was a smaller version of an early 19th-century wide-brimmed style called the gipsy hat.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Zaju chuishao fu</span>

Zaju chuishao fu, also called Guiyi, and sometimes referred as "Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing" or "swallow tail" clothing for short in English, is a form of set of attire in hanfu which was worn by Chinese women. The zaju chuishao fu can be traced back to the pre-Han period and appears to have originated the sandi of the Zhou dynasty; it then became popular during the Han, Cao Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties. It was a common form of aristocratic costumes in the Han and Wei dynasties and was also a style of formal attire for elite women. The zaju chuishao fu can be further divided into two categories of clothing style based on its cut and construction: the guipao, and the guichang.

References

  1. "The Dictionary of Fashion Terms". Archived from the original on 18 September 2011. Retrieved 1 December 2011.
  2. Lester, Katherine Morris; Ila McAfee (1999). Historic costume: a résumé of the characteristic types of costume from the most remote times to the present day. Omnigraphics. p. 196. ISBN   978-0-7808-0310-7 . Retrieved 14 December 2011.
  3. "The Royal Lady's Magazine" . Retrieved 1 December 2011.
  4. Louis Antoine Godey and Sarah Josepha Buell Hale (1831). Godey's magazine, Volume 2 . Retrieved 1 December 2011.
  5. Alden, Henry Mills; Hartman, Lee Foster; Allen, Frederick Lewis; Wells, Thomas Bucklin (1857). Harper's magazine, Volume 15 . Retrieved 1 December 2011.