Challis (fabric)

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Printed rayon challis fabric Rayon challis fabric.jpg
Printed rayon challis fabric
Crinkle rayon challis fabric Crinkle challis fabric.jpg
Crinkle rayon challis fabric

Challis, sometimes referred to as challie [1] or chally, [2] is a lightweight woven fabric, originally a silk-and-wool blend, which can also be made from a single fibre, such as cotton, silk or wool, [3] or from man-made fabrics such as rayon. [4] It was first manufactured in Norwich, England, in about 1832, when it was designed as a thin, soft material similar to Norwich crepe, but matte-textured rather than glossy, and more pliable. [3] [5] It was being exported to Australia in 1833. [6] Challis could be made with woven designs, or printed. [5] 'French challis' has a glossy finish. [3] The designs were often floral, paisley, or geometric, [7] and based on French silk patterns. [3]

The term is derived from an Anglo-Indian word, shallee, which means 'soft'. [7] At least one source suggests the term is American Indian. [8]

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Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Weaving</span> Technology for the production of textiles

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques that can be done without looms.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yarn</span> Long continuous length of interlocked fibres

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for needlework. Yarn can be made of a number of natural or synthetic materials, and comes in a variety of colors and thicknesses. Although yarn may be dyed different colours, most yarns are solid coloured with a uniform hue.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Velvet</span> Type of pile fabric

Velvet is a type of woven fabric with a dense, even pile that gives it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word velvety means "smooth like velvet". Historically, velvet was typically made from silk. Today, velvet can be made from silk, linen, cotton, wool, synthetic fibers, silk-cotton blends, or synthetic-natural fiber blends.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Worsted</span> Fabrics manufactured from worsted yarns

Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk. That village, together with North Walsham and Aylsham, formed a manufacturing centre for yarn and cloth in the 12th century, when pasture enclosure and liming rendered the East Anglian soil too rich for the older agrarian sheep breeds. In the same period, many weavers from the County of Flanders moved to Norfolk. "Worsted" yarns/fabrics are distinct from woollens : the former is considered stronger, finer, smoother, and harder than the latter.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Poplin</span> Strong, plain-weave fabric with a fine cross-rib

Poplin, also called tabinet, is a fine wool, cotton or silk fabric that has a vertical warp and a horizontal weft. Nowadays, the name refers to a strong material in a plain weave of any fiber or blend, with crosswise ribs that typically give a corded surface.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shawl</span> Simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms

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A bathrobe, also known as a housecoat or a dressing gown, is a loose-fitting outer garment worn by people, often after washing the body or around a pool. A bathrobe is considered to be very informal clothing, and is not worn with everyday clothes.

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Double cloth or double weave is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures to be created.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crêpe (textile)</span> Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface

Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

In the context of materials, stuff can refer to any manufactured material. This is illustrated from a quote by Sir Francis Bacon in his 1658 publication New Atlantis: "Wee have also diverse Mechanicall Arts, which you have not; And Stuffes made by them; As Papers, Linnen, Silks, Tissues; dainty Works of Feathers of wonderfull Lustre; excellent Dies, and many others." In Coventry, those completing seven-year apprenticeships with stuff merchants were entitled to become freemen of the city.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silk in the Indian subcontinent</span> Overview about silk in the India subcontinent

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The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grosgrain</span> Plain-woven fabric with weft-wise ribbing, often woven in ribbon widths

Grosgrain is a type of fabric or ribbon defined by the fact that its weft is heavier than its warp, creating prominent transverse ribs. Grosgrain is a plain weave corded fabric, with heavier cords than poplin but lighter than faille, and is known for being a firm, close-woven, fine-corded fabric. Grosgrain has a dull appearance, with little luster in comparison to many fabric weaves, such as satin, often used for ribbons; however, it is comparatively very strong. Grosgrain fabric is most commonly available in black, but grosgrain ribbon comes in a large variety of colors and patterns. The ribbon is very similar to Petersham ribbon in its appearance, but it does not have the ability to follow the curves of a surface or edge the way that the latter does.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidery thread</span> Any of several types of thread designed for use in embroidery and related crafts

Embroidery thread is yarn that is manufactured or hand-spun specifically for embroidery and other forms of needlework. Embroidery thread often differs widely, coming in many different fiber types, colors and weights.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">William Morris textile designs</span> Textile designs by a founder of the British Arts and Crafts movement

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Faille is a type of cloth with flat ribs, often made in silk. It has a softer texture than grosgrain, with heavier and wider cords or ribs. Weft yarns are heavier than warp, and it is manufactured in plain weaving. It was especially popular in the 19th century.

References

  1. Stella Blum (1974). Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper's Bazar, 1867-1898]. Courier Corporation. ISBN   9780486229904.
  2. S.N. Dexter North (1893). "Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers". Vol. 23. Courier Corporation. p. 144. ISBN   9780486229904.{{cite magazine}}: Cite magazine requires |magazine= (help)
  3. 1 2 3 4 Dooley, William Henry (1924). Textiles for Commercial, Industrial, and Domestic Arts Schools. Istodia Publishing LLC. pp. 66–67. ISBN   9781449589363.
  4. Stauffer, Jeanne (2004). Sewing Smart with Fabric. DRG Wholesale. p. 106. ISBN   9781592170180.
  5. 1 2 James, John (1857). History of the worsted manufacture in England: from the earliest times; with introductory notices of the manufacture among the ancient nations, and during the middle ages. Longman, Brown, Green, Longmans, and Roberts. p.  436.
  6. "THE arrival of the Mary". Sydney Herald. January 14, 1833. Retrieved April 30, 2021.
  7. 1 2 Maitra, K. K. (2007). Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Clothing and Textiles. Mittal Publications. p. 72. ISBN   9788183242059.
  8. Pizutto, Joseph James; Arthur Price; Allen C. Cohen (1987). Fabric science. Fairchild Publications. p. 352. ISBN   9780870055829 . Retrieved 16 July 2013.