Shepherd's pie

Shepherd's pie

Shepherd's pie served with peas, a common accompaniment
Alternative names	Cottage pie, hachis Parmentier
Type	Meat pie
Place of origin	Britain and France
Main ingredients	Mashed potato with minced meat
Variations	Cumberland pie, Shepherdess pie
Cookbook: Shepherd's pie

Shepherd's pie, cottage pie, or in French cuisine hachis Parmentier, is a savoury dish of cooked minced meat topped with mashed potato and baked, also called Sanders or Saunders. The meat used may be either previously cooked or freshly minced. The usual meats are beef or lamb. The terms shepherd's pie and cottage pie have been used interchangeably since they came into use in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, although some writers insist that a shepherd's pie should contain lamb or mutton, and a cottage pie, beef.

History

Shepherd's pies for sale

Shepherd's pie in Tallinn, Estonia

Shepherd's pie in an English restaurant

Cottage pie

The term was in use by 1791. Parson Woodforde mentions "Cottage-Pye" in his diary entry for 29 August 1791 and several times thereafter. He records that the meat was veal but does not say what the topping was. ^[1] The dish was known in its present form, though not under the same name, in the early 19th century: in 1806 Maria Rundell published a recipe for "Sanders", consisting of the same ingredients as cottage or shepherd's pie: minced beef or mutton, with onion and gravy, topped with mashed potato and baked as individual servings. ^{[2] [n 1]} Sanders or Saunders could also have a filling of sliced meat. ^[4] The name "Saunders" is still used in some cookery books. ^[5]

In 20th-century and later use the term cottage pie has widely, but not exclusively, been used for a dish of chopped or minced beef with a mashed potato topping. ^{[6] [n 2]} The beef may be fresh or previously cooked; ^[6] the latter was at one time more usual. Well into the 20th century the absence of refrigeration made it expedient in many domestic kitchens to store cooked meat rather than raw. In the 1940s the chef Louis Diat recalled of his childhood days, "when housewives bought their Sunday meat they selected pieces large enough to make into leftover dishes for several days". ^[8] Modern recipes for cottage pie typically use fresh beef. ^[6]

Shepherd's pie

A recipe for shepherd's pie published in Edinburgh in 1849 in The Practice of Cookery and Pastry specifies cooked meat of any kind, sliced rather than minced, covered with mashed potato and baked. ^[9] In the 1850s the term was also used for a Scottish dish that contained a mutton and diced potato filling inside a pastry crust. ^[10] Neither shepherd's pie nor cottage pie was mentioned in the original edition of Mrs Beeton's Household Management in 1861. ^[11]

More recently "shepherd's pie" has generally been used for a potato-topped dish of minced lamb. According to the Oxford Companion to Food , "In keeping with the name, the meat should be mutton or lamb; and it is usually cooked meat left over from a roast". ^[6] As with beef, it was commonplace in the days before refrigeration to cook a Sunday joint to last in various guises throughout the week. Dorothy Hartley quotes a traditional verse, "Vicarage mutton", showing not only the uses to which the joint was put, but also the interchangeability of the terms "shepherd's" and "cottage" pie:

  Hot on Sunday,
  Cold on Monday,
  Hashed on Tuesday,
  Minced on Wednesday,
  Curried Thursday,
  Broth on Friday,
  Cottage pie Saturday. ^[12]

Hachis Parmentier

The dish Hachis Parmentier is named after Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, who popularised the potato in French cuisine in the late 18th century. ^[6] It is documented from the late 19th century. ^{[n 3]} It is usually made with chopped or minced lamb or beef; in either case it may be made with either fresh or left-over cooked meat. (The modern English term "hash" derives from the French hachis, meaning food "finely chopped".) ^{[14] [n 4]}

In some recipes a layer of sauté potatoes is put in the cooking dish before the meat filling and mashed potato topping are added. ^[16] A more elaborate version by Auguste Escoffier, named Hachis de boeuf à Parmentier, consists of baked potatoes, the contents of which are removed, mixed with freshly-cooked diced beef, returned to the potato shells and covered with sauce lyonnaise. ^[17]

Variations

There are no universally agreed ingredients for any of the three dishes. The 24 recipes cited in the table show the varieties of titles and ingredients recommended by cooks and food writers from Australia, Britain, Canada, France and the US.

Cook/writer	Name of dish	Meat used	Fresh or left-over	Ref
Mary Berry	Cottage pie	Beef	Fresh	[18]
Mère Biasin	Hachis Parmentier	Lamb	Left-over boiled [n 5]	[19]
Paul Bocuse	Hachis Parmentier	Beef	Left-over boiled	[20]
Robert Carrier	Cottage pie	Beef	Fresh	[21]
Felicity Cloake	Cottage pie	Beef	Fresh, chopped, not minced	[22]
Jean-Pierre Coffe	Hachis Parmentier	Beef	Left-over boiled, mixed with fresh calves' liver	[23]
Elizabeth Craig	Shepherd's pie	Lamb	Left-over casseroled	[24]
Jane Grigson	Shepherd's pie	Beef or lamb	Fresh	[25]
Michel Guérard	Hachis Parmentier	Veal sweetbreads and duck gizzards	Fresh	[26]
Mark Hix	Shepherd's pie	Beef and lamb	Fresh	[27]
Graham Kerr	Cottage pie	Beef	Fresh	[28]
Tom Kerridge	Cottage pie	Beef	Fresh	[29]
Jean Paré	Hachis Parmentier	Beef	Fresh	[30]
Henri-Paul Pellaprat	Hachis Parmentier	Beef	Left-over	[31]
Gordon Ramsay	Shepherd's pie	Lamb	Fresh	[32]
Jay Rayner	Cottage pie	Beef and pork	Fresh	[33]
Gary Rhodes	Shepherd's pie	Lamb	Fresh	[34]
Michel Roux, Jr. [n 6]	Hachis Parmentier	Lamb	Left-over roast	[35]
Madame Saint-Ange	Hachis de bœuf au gratin	Beef	Left-over	[36]
Joan Schwartz	Shepherd's pie	Lamb	Fresh	[37]
Delia Smith	Cottage pie	Beef	Fresh	[38]
Martha Stewart	Shepherd's pie	Beef	Fresh	[39]
John Torode [n 7]	Cottage pie	Beef	Fresh	[40]
Anne Willan	Hachis Parmentier	Beef	Fresh	[41]

Similar dishes

Fillings for other pies with a mashed potato topping are numerous, and include artichoke hearts and red peppers; ^[42] black pudding; ^[43] chicken and spinach; ^[44] chorizo; ^[45] curried chicken; ^[46] duck; ^[47] rabbit; ^[48] salmon; ^[49] salt cod; ^[50] turkey and ham; ^[51] and flaked white fish with shrimps in a white sauce. ^[52]

Other pies with non-pastry toppings include:

Name of dish	Place of origin	Description	Ref
Cumberland pie	England	Pies of this name exist in two versions: traditional Cumberland pies, still served in Cumbria, have a pastry case, but others have a lamb or beef or pork-sausage filling covered by mashed potato topped with cheese and breadcrumbs.	[53]
Empadão	Portugal	Meat, often veal, stewed in a tomato-based gravy and layered several times between mashed potatoes. Poultry or fish is sometimes used instead of meat	[54]
Escondidinho	Brazil	The name, indicating "hidden", describes the way sun-dried meat is covered with a layer of manioc purée. The dish often includes cheese and chicken; cod is sometimes used instead of beef.	[55]
Pastel de carne	Uruguay	The filling is similar to that of a cottage pie, with the addition of sliced hard-boiled eggs.	[56]
Pastel de papas	Argentina, Chile	Similar to cottage pie; may also contain peppers.	[57]
Pastel tutup	Indonesia	Made with any of several meats, with vegetables such as carrots and green peas and boiled eggs, all topped with mashed potato.	[58]
Pâté chinois	Canada	Also known in Canada as shepherd's pie, consisting of a bottom layer of beef, a middle layer of creamed sweetcorn, topped with mashed potato.	[59]
Pióg an aoire	Ireland	The Irish for shepherd's pie.	[60]
Shepherdess pie	Other	Also called shepherdless pie: a vegetarian version made without meat, or a vegan version made without meat and dairy.	[61]

See also

• England portal
• Food portal

• Antoine-Augustin Parmentier
• British cuisine
• English cuisine
• French cuisine
• Irish cuisine
• List of English dishes
• List of French dishes
• List of Irish dishes
• List of pies, tarts and flans
• List of potato dishes
• Moussaka
• Pâté aux pommes de terre
• Pâté chinois
• Tave kosi
• Welsh cuisine

Notes, references and sources

Notes

1. In 1845 Eliza Acton published her recipe for "Saunders", similar to Rundell's, but with a layer of mashed potato underneath the minced meat as well as one on top. Like Rundell, she uses pre-cooked meat but adds, "A very superior kind of saunders is made by substituting fresh meat for roasted; but this requires to be baked an hour or something more". ^[3]
2. Jane Grigson noted that to make the dish go further some recipes put in a bottom layer of potato before adding the meat and top layer. ^[7]
3. It is listed on a bistro menu in Le Petit Moniteur universel, 29 June 1892: "Escargots. Fraise de veau. Ravigotte. Navarin pommes. Salé aux choux. Hachis Parmentier. Œufs, saucisses. Poulet rôti chaud". ^[13]
4. In his Grand dictionnaire de cuisine (1873) Alexandre Dumas wrote, "When you have veal, beef, chicken, game or scraps of meat left over from dinner the night before, all you have to do is chop these left-overs neatly, and there are tools for that, until the whole forms a complete mixture." ^[15]
5. In Mère Biasin's version, rather than a single layer of ragout and a single layer of potato, there would be several alternating layers of each, with a potato one on the top. ^[19]
6. "For me, the best shepherd's pie is made with leftover roast lamb, either shoulder or leg. In fact, I remember my sister and myself holding back on a Sunday lunch in case there wasn't enough left to make the pie." ^[35]
7. Torode comments, "The great cottage pie – whoever worked this one out was a genius". ^[40]

References

1. Woodforde (Vol III), p. 295; and (Vol V), pp. 335, 347, 371, 378, 389, 393 and 410
2. Rundell, p. 39
3. Acton, p. 195
4. Hughes, p. 49
5. Crook, Susan (1998). The Survival Guide to Cooking in the Student Kitchen. London: Foulsham. p. 84. ISBN   978-0-572-02455-0.
6. Saberi, p. 717
7. Grigson (1984), p. 70
8. Diat, p. 83
9. Williamson, p. 65
10. Dallas, pp. 255–256
11. Beeton, index pp. viii–ix, xiii and xxx
12. Hartley, p. 160
13. Anfossi, Marc. "Un bistro – fin de siècle", Le Petit Moniteur universel, 29 June 1892, p. 2, column 5
14. "hash" . Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.). Oxford University Press.(Subscription or participating institution membership required.)
15. Dumas, p. 619
16. Saulnier, p. 143
17. Escoffier, p. 391
18. Berry, p. 198
19. Hayward, p. 126
20. Bocuse, p. 53
21. Carrier, p. 30
22. Cloake, Felicity. "How to make perfect cottage pie" Archived 13 May 2022 at the Wayback Machine , The Guardian, 21 October 2010
23. Coffe, p. 312
24. Craig, p. 182
25. Grigson (1992), pp. 140−141
26. Guerard, pp. 108–109
27. Hix, p. 165
28. Kerr, p. 102
29. Kerridge, p. 193
30. Paré, p. 13
31. Pellaprat, p. 374
32. Ramsay, pp. 148−149
33. Rayner, p. 49
34. Rhodes, p. 115
35. Roux, p. 146
36. Saint-Ange, p. 374
37. Schwartz, pp. 122–123
38. Smith, p. 88
39. Stewart, Martha. "Shepherd's pie" Archived 9 April 2022 at the Wayback Machine , Marthastewart.com. Retrieved 13 May 2022
40. Torode, p. 100
41. Willan (1993), p. 92
42. Chovancova, p. 60
43. Chovancova, p. 42
44. Chovancova, p. 16
45. Chovancova, p. 56
46. Chovancova, p. 18
47. Chovancova, p. 32
48. Chovancova, p. 24
49. Chovancova, p. 48
50. Chovancova, p. 50
51. "BBC - Food - Recipes : Turkey and ham pie". Archived from the original on 22 December 2015. Retrieved 7 December 2015.
52. Willan (2005), p. 46
53. Orrey, p. 40; and Lemm, Elaine. "What is Cumberland Pie?" Archived 11 November 2016 at the Wayback Machine , Thespruceats. Retrieved 14 May 2022
54. Scott-Aitken, p. 258; and "Empadão de Carne" Archived 10 April 2021 at the Wayback Machine , Receitas Culinárias. Retrieved 14 May 2022
55. "Escondidinho recipe — Brazilian Wave". Brazilian Wave. 1 August 2012. Archived from the original on 18 June 2020. Retrieved 28 August 2018.
56. "Pastel de carne" Archived 26 April 2022 at the Wayback Machine , Gastronomía. Retrieved 14 May 2022
57. "Pastel de papas" Archived 21 July 2021 at the Wayback Machine , Recetas de Argentina. Retrieved 14 May 2022
58. "Grandma Liem’s Pastel Tutup (Indonesian Cottage Pie) Recipe" Archived 16 May 2022 at the Wayback Machine , Cookpad. Retrieved 14 May 2022
59. Marcotte, p. 72
60. "cottage pie - Aistriúchán Gaeilge ar cottage pie (An Foclóir Nua Béarla-Gaeilge)". www.focloir.ie (in Irish). Archived from the original on 30 August 2018. Retrieved 29 August 2018.
61. "10 Things you didnt know about Shepherds Pie - Jamie Oliver". jamieoliver.com. Archived from the original on 11 January 2020. Retrieved 7 January 2020.

Sources

• Acton, Eliza (1845). Modern Cookery, in all its Branches. London: Longmans. OCLC   969499797.
• Beeton, Isabella (1861). The Book of Household Management. London: S.O. Beeton. OCLC   1040245021.
• Berry, Mary (2008). Mary Berry's Stress-Free Kitchen. London: Headline. ISBN   978-0-7553-1729-5.
• Carrier, Robert (1978). Great Main Dishes. London: Hamlyn. ISBN   978-0-600-32012-8.
• Chovancova, Ilona (2005). Pies Without Pastry. London: Hachette. ISBN   978-1-84430-150-8.
• Coffe, Jean-Pierre (1993). Comme à la maison. Paris: Plon. ISBN   978-2-259-02578-2.
• Craig, Elizabeth (1900). 1500 Everyday Menus. London: Collins. OCLC   970777620.
• Dallas, E. S. (1877). Kettner's Book of the Table. London: Dulau. OCLC   771590401.
• Diat, Louis (1946). French Cooking for Americans. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott. OCLC   1036371103.
• Dumas, Alexandre (1873). Grand dictionnaire de cuisine. Paris: Lemerre. OCLC   1040560779.
• Escoffier, Auguste (1907). A Guide to Modern Cookery. London: Heinemann. ISBN   9781580086059. OCLC   560604921.
• Grigson, Jane (1984). The Observer Guide to British Cookery. London: Michael Joseph. ISBN   978-0-7181-2689-6.
• Grigson, Jane (1992). English Food. London: Ebury Press. ISBN   978-0-09-177043-3.
• Guérard, Michel (1992). Minceur exquise. London: Pyramid. ISBN   978-1-85510-048-0.
• Hartley, Dorothy (1999) [1954]. Food in England. London: Macdonald and Jane's. ISBN   978-1-85605-497-3.
• Hayward, Vicky, ed. (1988). Cuisine Extraordinaire : Real French Cooking. London: Conran Octopus. ISBN   978-1-85029-134-3.
• Hix, Mark (2005). British Food. London: Quadrille. ISBN   978-1-84400-213-9.
• Hughes, Glyn (31 August 2017). The Lost Foods of England. Morrisville: Lulu. ISBN   978-0-24-469104-2.
• Kerr, Graham (1991). Smart Cooking. New York: Doubleday. OCLC   1035369580.
• Kerridge, Tom (2014). Tom Kerridge's Best Ever Dishes. Bath: Absolute Press. ISBN   978-1-4729-0941-1.
• Marcotte, Louis-François (2008). Simple et chic. Montreal: Flammarion. ISBN   978-2-89077-349-3.
• Orrey, Jeanette (2006). Second Helpings from the Dinner Lady. London: Bantam. ISBN   978-0-593-05482-6.
• Paré, Jean (1997). Boeuf haché. Edmonton: Recipe Factory. ISBN   978-1-896891-10-1.
• Pellaprat, Henri Paul (1968). Everyday French Cooking. New York: New American Library. OCLC   1034661103.
• Rayner, Jay (2016). The Ten (Food) Commandments. London: Penguin. ISBN   978-0-241-97669-2.
• Rhodes, Gary (2001). Step-By-Step Cooking. London: Ebury. ISBN   978-0-09-188085-9.
• Roux, Michel Jr (2009). A Life in the Kitchen. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson. ISBN   978-0-297-84482-2.
• Rundell, Maria (1806). A New System of Domestic Cookery. London: J. Murray and J. Harding. OCLC   970770908.
• Saberi, Helen (1999). "Shepherd's pie". In Davidson, Alan (ed.). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN   978-0-19-211579-9.
• Saint-Ange, E. (2005). La bonne cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange. Berkeley: Ten Speed Press. ISBN   9781580086059. OCLC   1285661274.
• Saulnier, Louis (1978) [1923]. Le répertoire de la cuisine (fourteenth ed.). London: Jaeggi. OCLC   1086737491.
• Schwartz, Joan (2003). Meat and Potatoes: 52 Recipes, From Simple To Sublime. New York: Villard. ISBN   978-0-8129-6664-0.
• Scott-Aitken, Lynelle (2002). Portugal. Melbourne and London: Lonely Planet. ISBN   978-1-86450-111-7.
• Smith, Delia (1987). One is Fun!. London: Coronet. ISBN   978-0-340-38959-1.
• Torode, John (2008). Beef. London: Quadrille. ISBN   978-1-84400-690-8.
• Willan, Anne (1993). Creative Casseroles. London and New York: Dorling Kindersley. OCLC   1029039921.
• Willan, Anne (2005). Perfect Fish Classics. New York: Barnes & Noble. ISBN   978-0-7607-6169-4.
• Williamson, Mrs (1849). The Practice of Cookery and Pastry. Edinburgh: Forrester. OCLC   314615399.
• Woodforde, James (1924). The Diary of a Country Parson. Vol. III. London: Oxford University Press. OCLC   1156380998.
• Woodforde, James (1924). The Diary of a Country Parson. Vol. V. London: Oxford University Press. OCLC   1156337517.

External links

• Shepherds Pie (Pâté Chinois) at the Wikibooks Cookbook subproject
• Shephard's Pie 2 at the Wikibooks Cookbook subproject