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The dhoti, also known as veshti, mardani, chaadra, dhontar, jaiñboh & panchey, is a type of sarong, fastened in between the legs in a manner that it outwardly resembles trousers, sometimes loose but other tighter fittings are worn as well. It is a lower garment forming part of the folk costume for men in the Indian subcontinent. The dhoti is fashioned out of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 4.5 metres (15 ft) long, wrapped around the waist and the legs and knotted, either in the front or the back.
Longcloth refers to a plain cotton cloth originally made in comparatively long pieces.
Phulkari refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are use of darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. Punjabi women create innumerable alluring and interesting designs and patterns by their skilful manipulation of the darn stitch. According to Kehal (2009), a cloth where only a few flowers are embroidered is called a Phulkari. The other types are distinct varieties. The traditional varieties of Phulkaris are large items of cloth and include Chope, Tilpatr, Neelak and Bagh. Sometimes, the Bagh is given separate categorization of its own as on other varieties of a Phulkari, parts of the cloth is visible, whereas in a Bagh, the embroidery covers the entire garment so that the base cloth is not visible. Further, in contemporary modern designs, simple and sparsely embroidered dupattas, odhinis, and shawls, made for everyday use, are referred to as phulkaris, whereas clothing items that cover the entire body, made for special and ceremonial occasions such as weddings are called baghs. The Phulkari continues to be an integral part of Punjabi weddings to the present day.
Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing styles. Designs in Indian embroidery are formed on the basis of the texture and the design of the fabric and the stitch. The dot and the alternate dot, the circle, the square, the triangle, and permutations and combinations of these constitute the design.
Montgomery District was an administrative district of the former Punjab Province of British India, in what is now Pakistan. Named after Sir Robert Montgomery, it lay in the Bari Doab, or the tract between the Sutlej and the Ravi rivers, extending also across the Ravi into the Rechna Doab, which lies between the Ravi and the Chenab. The administrative headquarters was the town of Montgomery, present-day Sahiwal. In 1967, the name of Montgomery District was changed to Sahiwal District.
Rahon is a city and a municipal council in the district Shaheed Bhagat Singh Nagar of the Indian state of Punjab. Rahon is in Doaba region of Punjab. Doaba also known as Bist Doab, is the region of Punjab, India that lies between the Beas River and the Sutlej River. A famous battle was fought here between Sikhs and Mughals i.e Battle of Rahon (1710).
Shalwar kameez is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia, and Central Asia.
In the ancient Punjab region, people wore cotton clothing. Both men and women wore knee-length tops. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees. Both male and female wore a dhoti around the waist. Modern Punjabi dress has retained this outfit but over its long history has added other forms of dress.
Bafta is a kind of calico, initially made in India.
Khes is a thin cotton blanket cloth in the Indian subcontinent; it is a damask cloth used for blankets and winter wraps. Khes is generally hand-woven with coarse cotton yarns. Khes as a garment is a simple clothing item to wear loosely to cover the upper body by men in Pakistan and northwest India. Khes is an important cloth in the Punjab region, a region which is famous for its production and historically has been known for not only the production of Khes but also many other coarse cotton textiles, especially in the 19th and 20th centuries. Khes is a comfort object used in bedding, and is also usable as a cover.
Sussi or susi is a term for multicolored striped or checked cloth produced mainly in Sindh. Sussi is thin handloom fabric made of cotton, silk, or a blend of the two, with colored warp stripes. Sindh region was known for its production and exports during the Mughal period. Sussi was most often made with red and blue, blue and white, or green and white stripes, but other patterns were also produced. The fabric was exported to England, where sousaes were in great demand in the 18th century.
Tat Patti ( Tat pati) is an indigenous floor cover of narrow width made of coarse Jute. It was produced in Punjab region. Tat patti was utilized as seating for students in government schools and provided to inmates in jail as well. It is still in use in rural India.
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Izarband(naada, izārband, Izar band, Kamarband, Kamar Ki Patti and Patka, ازار بند) is a kind of girdle. Izarband is used to tie the upper part of various dresses such as salwar, pajamas, ghagra, petticoat, etc., in the Indian subcontinent. The said garments have the upper side turned inwards and stitched to make a narrow tubular passage, in which the izarband passes, there is one opening in the front side to collect and tie/ knot the ends. Izarband was one of the accessory (closures) items of textiles produced in the Punjab region. The Izarband is similar to a drawstring but narrower than a katzeb or a sash.
Dosuti was one of the coarser cotton piece goods produced in the Indian subcontinent. Originally, it was a handspun and handloom cloth made in the villages. Punjab had various cotton qualities during the 19th century. All were distinguished by their weight, thickness, and the yarn. Dosuti was a cloth made by running two yarns in warp and weft as its name refers to Do(double) Suti. India's Eastern side was famous for more delicate cotton materials such as Dacca muslins, and Punjab and Gujarat were famous for coarser cotton textile piece goods. Dosuti was a thick cotton material used for rough usages, such as duster. The other contemporary cotton products were Eksuti, Tinsuti, and Chausuti, etc.
Niwar is a coarse, narrow, thick tape that was initially made of cotton only. Niwar is a textile product produced on tape looms and classified as a narrow-width fabric. Baden Henry Powell referred to it as "broad coarse tape", a product of the jail industry. In his book Handbook of the Manufactures and Arts of the Punjab, Powell classified niwar under the category of "tape, string, and miscellaneous cotton products". A weaver of this tape is called a niwar-baf.
Gaji (Gaji cloth) is a coarse cloth made primarily of cotton or silk that is used for native Indian dresses.
Adhotar was a coarse variety handloom cloth with a loosely woven structure. Adhotar was a cloth of locals in the early 19th century. It was one among various other Indian handloom fabrics such as khaddar, garha, dres, and Khasa.
Salu is a type of twill cloth, woven from cotton and dyed red, originally made in India. Prior to the introduction of modern industrial techniques, it was produced exclusively hand spun (khaddar) yarns with locally-available dyes. Salu is one of seven cotton cloths explicitly mentioned in the 16th century Mughal record Ain-i-Akbari, together with khasa, tansukh, doriya, bafta, dupatta, and panchtoliya.
Punjum was a type of Indian cotton cloth. It was produced in the Northern Circars, on the Coromandel Coastal region in South East India. Punjum was a kind of cotton longcloth that was produced in a variety of thread counts.
References
- 1 2 Baden-Powell, Baden Henry (1872). Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab: With a Combined Index and Glossary of Technical Vernacular Words. Printed at the Thomason Civil Engineering College Press. p. 4.
- ↑ Indian Information. Bureau of the public information of the government of India. 1941. p. 274.
- ↑ Parshad, Gopal (2007). Industrial Development in Northern India: A Study of Delhi, Punjab and Haryana, 1858-1918. National Book Organisation. p. 50. ISBN 978-81-87521-20-4.
- ↑ agric, Punjab dept of (1871). Statement showing estimate extent of cotton cultivation. p. 11.
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