Type | Traditional Blouse-dress |
---|---|
Place of origin | Maritime Southeast Asia |
Baju Kurung (Jawi: باجو كوروڠ) is a traditional attire of Malays and traditionally worn by women in Brunei, Indonesia, [1] Malaysia, Singapore and southern Thailand. This type of traditional attire is the national dress of Brunei and Malaysia. [2] [3] In Indonesia, this dress is also worn as a regional attire, commonly observed on the island of Sumatra, particularly by the ethnic Malay and Minangkabau women.
A Baju Kurung is a loose-fitting full-length dress, consisting of a blouse and a skirt. It is loosely translated as "enclosed dress". [4] Although Baju Kurung is the generic term of the attire for both males and females, in modern Malaysia, the female dress is referred to as Baju Kurung while the male dress is referred to as Baju Melayu. The terms Baju Kurung for male is however, retained in Singapore.
According to the Chinese script, the Malay community, both men and women in the 13th century only wore a covering of the lower body. During its development, Malay women wear a sarong with a "kemben" pattern, that is, wrapping the sarong around the chest. Pants also began to be worn in the "Aceh Scissors" style, namely pants that were just below the knee.
But then trade brought with it foreign cultural influences. Goods from China, India, and the Middle East also arrived. Apart from trade, this also exposes the Malay community to the way the foreigner dresses. Malays also adopted Islam as their religion, and this affected the way they dressed because in this new religion there was an obligation to cover up the awrat of both women and men.
In Malaysia, baju kurung is one of the oldest Malay clothing styles. The person who popularized it was Tun Hassan Temenggong, son of Bendahara Seri Maharaja Tun Mutahir, in the 15th century Malacca Sultanate. Malacca was enjoying its golden era during this period until the Portuguese conquered Malacca in 1511. It was one of the strongest sultanate in Malay Archipelago and was a center of entrepot trade, with traders from China, India, and the Middle East. [5]
According to the Malay annals, Sultan Mansur Shah, the sixth Malaccan ruler, banned Malay women from wearing only a sarong from the bust downwards. With the guides from Tun Hassan Temenggong, the traditional Baju Melayu and Baju Kurung were born, adopting different elements from China, India, and the Middle East. The style of clothing then remained largely unchanged over the next three and a half centuries.
Another version of Baju Kurung emerged in its successor state, Johor-Riau sultanate. The earlier Baju Kurung was longer and looser. This new style of Baju Kurung is known as Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga, named after the capital of the sultanate during that time, Telok Blangah in modern-day Singapore. It was popularised by Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor in the late 19th century [6] and continue to "not only survived but prospered" in modern Malaysia, pointing to its popularity during the Islamisation of Malaysia in the 1970s and 1980s. [7]
The Baju (blouse) has long sleeves and extends to between the hips and knees. [8] It is usually made from traditional Malay textiles from Indonesian provinces (Jambi, South Sumatra, West Sumatra, North Sumatra, Riau, and Riau Archipelago) and Malaysian states (Pahang, Terengganu or Kelantan), [9] [7] or sometimes even from imported silk from China, Taiwan, Turkey, the UAE or India.
Baju Kurung is usually paired with a sarong (skirt), and the sarong itself is worn with ikatan ombak mengalun, which is a wavy-style fold. These folds can be seen on the left or right side of the sarong. Traditionalists prefer sarong fabric from peninsular Malaysia's eastern states of Pahang, Terengganu, and Kelantan, where the culture of batik and other hand-designed fabrics such as songket and tenun are still strong.
Kain Dagang, also known as samping is a type of sarong cloths used as a veil when outdoor. This cloth is used to protect oneself from the scorching sun. When indoor, Kain Dagang will be tied at the waist or hung on the arm.
The scarf is usually slung over the shoulder. If one's wearing a Kain Dagang, instead of wearing a long scarf, they usually opt for a traditional veil such as Keringkam . The Keringkam is a kind of short embroidered scarf. In the more conservative states in northern Malaysia, a woman will often wear a Baju Kurung with a headscarf (tudung). [10]
There are five versions of Baju Kurungs that are the most popular. All five of these variations were developed in the Malay peninsula and were gazetted as Malaysia's intangible cultural heritage in 2015. [11]
Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga or Baju Kurung Johor was first introduced during the reign of Sultan Abu Bakar to commemorate the move of Johor's capital from Teluk Belanga to Tanjung Puteri in 1866 (now known as Johor Bahru). Sultan Abu Bakar ordered that the woman's dress be down to below the knee with its neckline smooth and not baggy. Teluk Belanga style has no collar and the neckline is stitched in various forms of embroidery known as mata lalat, tulang belut or insang pari. During the reign of Sultan Ibrahim, the dress was changed at the suggestion of the Jaafar bin Haji Muhammad, the first Menteri Besar of Johor, where a pocket was added onto the Baju Kurung. Today, Teluk Belanga style is synonymous with standard traditional Baju Kurung.
Baju Kurung Cekak Musang is almost identical to Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga except on the neck. It was originally from Teluk Belanga. Cekak Musang style has a standing collar with holes for five buttons including two buttons for the collar. The collar is only one finger wide. This style of Baju Kurung is believed to have received influence from India and China.
Baju Kurung Kedah is believed to have been influenced by Thailand, as the style resembles a short blouse worn in southern Thailand. It is made short to the level of the hips and is usually worn with batik cloth without much decoration. Kedah style is considered to be a loose dress and popular daily wear in the northern states of Malaysia. Kedah style has a neck with Teluk Belanga style.
Baju Kurung Pahang or also known as Baju Kurung Riau-Pahang reveals the historical relationship between the two Malay states of Riau and Pahang. This style was inspired by Tengku Ampuan Mariam, the daughter of Sultan Ahmad Al-Muazam Shah. Tengku Ampuan Mariam was married to Sultan Badrul Alam Shah. Many collections of Pahang style were collected from Terengganu and Pahang. In contrast to the standard Baju Kurung, Pahang style has a Cekak Musang collar with seven or nine buttons.
Baju Kurung Perak or Baju Puteri Perak (Princess of Perak's dress) is a unique dress due to the replacement of the sarong with the use of pants. This style was inspired by the Perak and Aceh royalties. Just like Malay men's Baju Melayu, pants are worn with samping of various styles. The Perak style has a collar with Cekak Musang style and resembles Acehnese women's clothing.
The Cekak Musang style also normally has three pockets – two at the bottom, and one at the upper left breast. The Teluk Belanga style normally has only two pockets both at the bottom. The Baju Melayu is a loosely fitting shirt with long sleeves, worn with long pants with a Kain Dagang which is wrapped around the middle of the body from the stomach to the knee and sometimes lower. This cloth is usually a three-quarter length or full sarong-style cloth made of kain songket, Tenun Pahang Diraja, or other woven materials with traditional patterns.
Baju Kurung is worn to attend weddings, religious ceremonies, and official functions. In Malaysia, generally, all the Malay women wear traditional dresses as formal attire including primary and secondary school students. The Baju Kurung is also worn by non-Malays females (including Malaysia's ethnic Chinese, Indian and native Bornean minorities). This can be partially due to the Baju Kurung being one of the approved styles of dress for female civil servants and one of the approved styles of uniform for female school students. However, its peak sales occur in the month of Ramadan on the Muslim calendar, mostly due to the upcoming "Hari Raya Aidilfitri" (Malay for Eid al-Fitr) after Ramadan ends which is celebrated by Muslims worldwide. [7]
In line with the changes in the cut and shape, to produce a more modern and creative design, Baju Kurung is also decorated with embroidery, filigree, beads, and sequins. The material to produce Baju Kurung also changed. Now, there is a wide selection of materials including satin, organza, chiffon, silk, batik, linen, and more. These changes are made to suit the current situation or the event to be attended in addition to trying to imitate the style of foreign cuts that may be intended to look more elegant. There are now various variations of Baju Kurung and it is known as Baju Kurung Moden. The modern Baju Kurung commonly uses lively colors and geometric patterns. [7] In line with the changing times, various fashion styles, and modern design Baju Kurung has been accepted by the community. The design of the Baju Kurung is now more contemporary but still retains its original features.
Although Baju Kurung has evolved in line with the changing times and tastes of the wearer, the design is still the same.
Silat Melayu, also known as Seni Persilatan Melayu or simply Silat, is a combative art of self-defence from the Malay world, that employs langkah ('steps') and jurus ('movements') to ward off or to strike assaults, either with or without weapons. Silat traced its origin to the early days of Malay civilisation, and has since developed into a fine tradition of physical and spiritual training that embodies aspects of traditional Malay attire, performing art and adat. The philosophical foundation of modern Malay Silat is largely based on the Islamic spirituality. Its moves and shapes are rooted from the basis of Silat movements called Bunga Silat, and Silat performances are normally accompanied with Malay drum assembles.
Riau is a province of Indonesia. It is located on the central eastern coast of the island of Sumatra, and extends from the eastern slopes of the Barisan Mountains to the Malacca Strait, including several large islands situated within the Strait. The province shares land borders with North Sumatra to the northwest, West Sumatra to the west, and Jambi to the south, and a maritime border with the Riau Islands and the country of Malaysia to the east. It is the second-largest province in the island of Sumatra after South Sumatra, and is slightly larger than the nation of Jordan. According to the 2020 census, Riau had a population of 6,394,087 across a land area of 89,935.90 km²; the official estimate of population as of mid-2023 was 6,642,874. The province comprises ten regencies and two cities, with Pekanbaru serving as the capital and largest city.
Malays are an Austronesian ethnoreligious group native to eastern Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula and coastal Borneo, as well as the smaller islands that lie between these locations. These locations are today part of the countries of Malaysia, Indonesia, the southern part of Thailand, Singapore and Brunei Darussalam.
A sarong or a sarung is a large tube or length of fabric, often wrapped around the waist, worn in Southeast Asia, South Asia, Western Asia, Northern Africa, East Africa, West Africa, and on many Pacific islands. The fabric often employs woven plaid or checkered patterns or may be brightly colored by means of batik or ikat dyeing. Many modern sarongs have printed designs, often depicting animals or plants. Different types of sarongs are worn in different places in the world, notably the lungi in the Indian subcontinent and the izaar in the Arabian Peninsula.
Telok Blangah is a subzone region and housing estate located in the area behind Keppel Harbour in Bukit Merah, Singapore. Teluk Blanga is the district between Pasir Panjang and Tanjong Pagar.
Malay houses refer to the vernacular dwellings of the Malays, an ethno-linguistic group inhabiting Sumatra, coastal Borneo and the Malay Peninsula.
A kebaya is an upper garment traditionally worn by women in Southeast Asia, notably in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Southern Thailand.
Baju Melayu is a traditional Malay costume for men, originated from the court of Malacca Sultanate and is traditionally worn by men in Brunei, Malaysia, Singapore, parts of Indonesia, southern Philippines, and southern Thailand. In its formal form, Baju Melayu is the national dress of Malaysia and Brunei, typically worn during official events and functions.
The songkok or peci or kopiah is a cap widely worn in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, the southern Philippines, and southern Thailand, most commonly among Muslim males. It has the shape of a truncated cone, usually made of black or embroidered felt, cotton or velvet. It is also worn by males in formal occasions such as weddings and funerals or festive occasions such as the Eid ul-Fitr and Eid al-Adha holidays. In Indonesia, the peci is also associated with the nationalist movement.
Pakaian is the term for clothing in Malaysia's national language. It is referring to things to wear such as shirts, pants, shoes etc. Since Malaysia is a multicultural nation: Malay, Chinese, Indian and hundreds of other indigenous groups of Malay Peninsula and Borneo, each has its own traditional and religious articles of clothing all of which are gender-specific and may be adapted to local influences and conditions. Previously, traditional clothes were worn daily. However, by excluding Baju Melayu, Baju Kurung many are now only worn on special occasions such as marriage ceremonies and cultural events.
Malaysian batik is batik textile art in Malaysia, especially on the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia 42% from Kelantan, 36% from Terengganu and 22% from Pahang). The most popular motifs are leaves and flowers. Malaysian batik depicting humans or animals are rare because Islam norms forbid animal images as decoration. However, the butterfly theme is a common exception. Malaysian batik is also famous for its geometrical designs, such as spirals. The method of Malaysian batik making is also quite different from those of Indonesian Javanese batik, the pattern is larger and simpler, it seldom or never uses canting to create intricate patterns and relies heavily on brush painting method to apply colours on fabrics. The colours also tend to be lighter and more vibrant than the deep coloured Javanese batik.
The national costume of Indonesia is the national attire that represents the Republic of Indonesia. It is derived from Indonesian culture and Indonesian traditional textile traditions. Today the most widely recognized Indonesian national attires include batik and kebaya, although originally those attires mainly belong within the island of Java and Bali, most prominently within Javanese, Sundanese and Balinese culture. Since Java has been the political and population center of Indonesia, folk attire from the island has become elevated into national status.
Riau Malays are a sub-group of Malays native to Riau and the Riau Islands province of eastern Sumatra, Indonesia. They only make up 29% of Riau Island population, while in Riau, they constitute a plurality, at around 45%. Riau Malays, especially in coastal Riau and Riau Islands, share the same or similar cultural, historical, and linguistic background with Johorean and Singaporean Malays due to their common Malaccan origin in the 15th century.
Pahang Malays are a sub-group of Malay people native to the state of Pahang, in the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. With population of approximately 1.08 million people, they constitutes 70% of Pahang state's population, making them the dominant ethnic group in the state. Their language, Pahang Malay is one of many Malayan languages spoken in the region that belong to the Malayo-Polynesian group of Austronesian family.
The Bendahara dynasty is the current ruling dynasty of Pahang, Terengganu and Johor – constituent states of Malaysia. The royal house were of noble origin, holding the hereditary position of bendahara in the courts of Singapura, Malacca and Old Johor since at least from the end of the 13th century.
Kemben is an Indonesian female torso wrap historically common in Java, Bali, and other parts of the Indonesian archipelago. It is made by wrapping a piece of kain (clothes), either plain, batik printed, velvet, or any type of fabrics, covering the chest wrapped around the woman's torso.
Temenggong Tun Daeng Ibrahim bin Almarhum Temenggong Tun Daeng Abdul Rahman was the Temenggong of Johor and later the de facto Maharaja of Johor from 1855 to 1862.
Samping or Kain Dagang is a traditional Malay costume originated from the court of Malacca, and is traditionally worn by men and women in Brunei, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore and southern Thailand. This type of traditional costume is a part of the national dress of Brunei and Malaysia.
Kerikam is a coarse metal thread made of gold or silver used for embroidering. The term kerikam comes from the French word clinquant. It is an important material in the Malay art of embroidery, traditionally used by the Malays in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia and southern Thailand. Kerikam embroidery can be found on baju kurung, kebaya and tudung.
The Bugis-Malay, also known as Buginese-Malay, Malay-Bugis or Melayu-Bugis, Peranakan Bugis, are a cultural and ethnic group with heritage rooted in both Malay and Bugis communities, typically comprising individuals of mixed Malay and South Sulawesi ancestry. This group descends from multiple waves of migration from South Sulawesi, particularly to Johor and Riau Archipelago, as well as Selangor, Singapore and other areas, between the 17th and early 20th centuries.