Type | Robe |
---|---|
Material | Polyester fabric, wool or cotton |
Place of origin | Arabian Peninsula, Levant, North Africa |
A thawb [a] [b] is an Arab garment mainly worn by inhabitants of the Middle East and North Africa. The thawb is long-sleeved ankle-length traditional robe; it is worn by men and women with regional variations in name and style. [1] Depending on local traditions, a thawb can be worn in formal or informal settings; in the Gulf states thawbs are the main formal attire for men. [2] It is also worn by Muslim men in the Indian subcontinent due to its modest appearance, and is believed to be a sunnah, [3] and it is commonly referred to as a jubbah there. [4] [5] [6] The etymology of the word “thawb,” the history and origin of the robe, its regional styles and versions, and its modern use help to characterize and differentiate the thawb from other traditional Arabic clothes.
The word thawb (ثَوْب) is a Standard Arabic word for "dress" or "garment". It is also romanized as thobe or thaub or thob. [7]
Region/country | Language | Main |
---|---|---|
Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Bahrain, Qatar, Palestine | Hejazi Arabic, Yemeni Arabic, Najdi Arabic, Bahraini Arabic, Palestinian Arabic | Thawb/Thōb (ثوب) |
Levant, Iraq, Kuwait, Oman, Khuzestan, Yemen (Hadhramaut) | Hadhrami Arabic, Levantine Arabic, Mesopotamian Arabic, Omani Arabic, Kuwaiti Arabic, Ahvazi Arabic | Dishdashah (دِشْدَاشَة) |
United Arab Emirates, Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Southeast Asia | Emirati Arabic, Moroccan Arabic, Algerian Arabic, Tunisian Arabic, Libyan Arabic | Kandūrah (كَنْدُورَة)/ Gandūrah (قَنْدُورَة) |
The thawb dates back to the arrival of Islam in the Arab world in roughly 600 AD. It was a long- or short-sleeved gown worn over the qamis, an undergarment, by both men and women. The word thawb during this time was a general term for clothing and fabric because most types of clothing were mere pieces of cloth, or shiqqa. Between 700 and 800 AD, thawbs were perfumed and stitched with poetry along its edges to celebrate festivals like the Persian New Year. In 900 AD Egypt, eunuchs wore thawbs as funeral shrouds as they believed it granted blessings. In around 1,000 AD, the thawb was widespread in Arabia as a basic robe. By the 1300s, versions of the thawb emerged for every season and for special occasions for both sexes. While there is scant information about the actual cuts of the robe, a thirteenth-century manuscript from Iraq shows drawings of women in close-fitting gowns that differed from the previously common wide-sleeved thawbs. Paintings in Egypt from the Mamluk period show women either fully or partially covered in this robe. During this time, the thawb also became shorter due to a fashion trend for higher hemlines and elbow-length sleeves. By the late 1800s, Palestinian women adopted a thawb with foreign patterns and floral designs. [8]
The thawb is commonly worn by men in the Arabian Peninsula. It is normally made with polyester fabric, but heavier materials such as sheep's wool can also be used, especially in colder climates in the Levant. [9] The style of the thawb varies between regions. In Iraq, Kuwait, the Levant, and Oman, dishdashah is the most common word for the garment; in the United Arab Emirates and the Maghreb, the word kandura is used. In Pakistan and other parts of the sub-continent, it is often to referred to as a 'Jubbah' and designed in an ornate style in keeping with local traditions [10] .
In the Gulf states, thobes are typically made with white or beige polymer fabric, with coloured wool thobes worn in the winter months. [11] Thobes commonly worn by men and are considered as symbols of national and cultural identity, and are appropriate attire for formal occasions and religious ceremonies. In recent years, the thobes have become a popular fashion item, with many fashion designers adding their own modern twists to the traditional garment. [12]
In some Gulf countries, thawb sleeves and collars can be stiffened to give a more formal appearance, front pockets and embroidery could be added and placket buttons can be covered, exposed, or replaced by zippers. [13] In the UAE and Oman, men's thobes have no collar, use frog closures as placket fasteners, and include tassels; [14] in Oman, tassels tend to be short, and in the UAE tassels extend to the waist. [15] [16]
In Sudan, the term tobe is used to refer to women's outer garments. [1] In her book Khartoum at night: Fashion and body politics in imperial Sudan, [17] cultural historian Marie Grace Brown explained: "Meaning “bolt of cloth,” a tobe is a rectangular length of fabric, generally two meters wide and four to seven meters long. It is worn as an outer wrapper whenever women are outside their homes or in the company of unrelated males. The tobe's origins date back to the late eighteenth century when prosperous merchants in Darfur clothed their wives and daughters in large swaths of fine imported linen, muslin, and silk as a sign of their wealth and prestige." [18] In the context of urban culture in Sudan since the 1930s, new and often colourful styles of tobes became fashionable, as Sudanese women "expressed their growing opportunities and desires through fashion." [19]
The traditional Palestinian woman's long tunic is also called thawb (or thob, ثوب), and is generally considered women's Palestinian national dress. [20] It is richly embroidered with tatreez patterns, with different colours and patterns signifying various aspects of the wearer's social position and most importantly its unique village, town or city. [21]
A thawb is sometimes worn with a bisht (بِشْت), also known in other parts of the Arabian Peninsula as a mishlah (مِشْلَح) or ʿabāʾ (عَبَاء), meaning 'cloak'. It is usually worn on ceremonial occasions or by officials. A bisht is usually worn by religious clergy, but can also be worn at weddings, Eids and funerals. It may indicate wealth and royalty or sometimes a religious position. It was originally manufactured in Syria, Iraq and Jordan, and it is usually worn in the Arabian peninsula, Jordan, Syria and parts of southern Iraq.
According to H. R. P. Dickson, [22] Bedouin women would mount a brightly coloured thawb on a pole in front of a tent in order to welcome home a traveller or an important person coming to visit. [1]
Rashida Tlaib, a Democratic member of the United States House of Representatives from Michigan and the first Palestinian-American woman elected to that body, wore a thawb to her swearing-in ceremony on January 3, 2019. [23] This inspired a number of Palestinian and Palestinian-American women to share pictures on social media with the hashtag #TweetYourThobe. [24] Like the ghutra, thawbs were also popular during the 2022 FIFA World Cup in Qatar. [25]
A robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. Unlike garments described as capes or cloaks, robes usually have sleeves. The English word robe derives from Middle English robe ("garment"), borrowed from Old French robe, itself taken from the Frankish word *rouba, and is related to the word rob.
Folk costume, traditional dress, traditional attire or folk attire, is clothing associated with a particular ethnic group, nation or region, and is an expression of cultural, religious or national identity. If the clothing is that of an ethnic group, it may also be called ethnic clothing or ethnic dress. Traditional clothing often has two forms: everyday wear, and formal wear. The word "costume" in this context is sometimes considered pejorative, as the word has more than one meaning, and thus "clothing", "dress", "attire" or "regalia" can be substituted without offense.
A kaftan or caftan is a variant of the robe or tunic. Originating in Asia, it has been worn by a number of cultures around the world for thousands of years. In Russian usage, kaftan instead refers to a style of men's long suit with tight sleeves.
A tunic is a garment for the torso, usually simple in style, reaching from the shoulders to a length somewhere between the hips and the ankles. It might have arm-sleeves, either short or full-length. Most forms have no fastenings. The name derives from the Latin tunica, the basic garment worn by both men and women in Ancient Rome, which in turn was based on earlier Greek garments that covered wearers' waists.
Clothing terminology comprises the names of individual garments and classes of garments, as well as the specialized vocabularies of the trades that have designed, manufactured, marketed and sold clothing over hundreds of years.
The culture of Bahrain is part of the historical region of Eastern Arabia. Thus, Bahrain's culture is similar to that of its Arab neighbours in the Arabian Gulf region. Bahrain is known for its cosmopolitanism, Bahraini citizens are very ethnically diverse. Though the state religion is Islam, the country is tolerant towards other religions: Catholic and Orthodox churches, Hindu temples as well as a (now-defunct) Jewish synagogue are present on the island.
Fashion in 15th-century Europe was characterized by a surge of experimentation and regional variety, from the voluminous robes called houppelandes with their sweeping floor-length sleeves to the revealing giornea of Renaissance Italy. Hats, hoods, and other headdresses assumed increasing importance, and were draped, jeweled, and feathered.
The djellaba or jillaba, also written gallabea, is a long, loose-fitting unisex outer robe or dress with full sleeves that is worn in the Maghreb region of North Africa.
A Senegalese kaftan is a pullover men's robe with long bell sleeves. In the Wolof language, this robe is called a mbubb or xaftaan and in French it is called a boubou. The Senegalese caftan is an ankle length garment. It is worn with matching drawstring pants called tubay in Wolof. Normally made of cotton brocade, lace, or synthetic fabrics, these robes are common throughout West Africa. A kaftan and matching pants is called a kaftan suit. The kaftan suit can be worn with a kufi cap. Senegalese kaftans are formal wear in all West African countries. In the United States, some merchants sell this robe as a Senegalese style dashiki pant set or a full length dashiki pant set. Men who are members of the Hausa tribe, wear these kaftans to formal events like naming ceremonies and weddings. In the United States, a kaftan is one of three formal suits, equivalent to the tuxedo, that African-American grooms select for their weddings. The other styles being the dashiki pant set, and the grand boubou, pronounced gran boo-boo. There are various other formal robes that are worn throughout West Africa, and with the exception of the Yoruba Gbarie robe, pronounced barry, most of these are a form of Islamic dress, see sartorial hijab. The kaftan is worn by Christians, African Jews, Muslims, and followers of African traditional religion. Furthermore, Senegalese kaftans are common among men of African descent in the African diaspora. The Senegalese kaftan is men's attire. In West Africa, and the United States, this robe is not worn by women. The women's robe is called a kaftan.
The Taqiyah, also known as tagiyah or araqchin, is a short, rounded skullcap worn by Muslim men. In the United States and the United Kingdom, it is also referred to as a "kufi", although the Kufi typically has more of an African connotation. Aside from being an adornment, the taqiyah has deeply ingrained significance in Islamic culture, reflecting the wearer's faith, devotion, and sometimes regional identity. While the taqiyah is deeply rooted in Muslim traditions, its use varies based on cultural context rather than strict religious guidelines.
A kanzu is a white or cream coloured robe worn by men in the African Great Lakes region. It is referred to as a tunic in English, and as the Thawb in Arab countries. The kanzu is an ankle or floor length garment. It serves as the national costume of Tanzania as well as the Comoros, where it is called/pronounced 'Kandu' as well as thawb. The robe is also worn in some coastal Muslim regions of Tanzania and Kenya. The men of Uganda consider it their most important dress. Kanzu is a Ganda word of Swahili origin, which means "robe" or "tunic". In Tanzania, the term is used interchangeably with kaftan.
Barkas is a neighborhood in Hyderabad, India, located in the old city area of Hyderabad. The name "Barkas" is believed to be derived from the English word "Barracks". The old Arabs pronounced Barracks as Barkas in their Arabic flow. Barkas served as the military Barracks of the Nizam of Hyderabad.
An izaar, also izar or ʾizār, also known as maʿawaz (مَعَوَز), futah (فُوطَة), wizar (وِزَار), maqtab (مَقْطَب) is a traditional lower garment that is frequently used by men in Oman, Somalia, United Arab Emirates and Yemen. Izaars are commonly used in Yemen, it is commonly referred to as maʿawaz (مَعَوَز). It is also used by some in Iraq, Kuwait, Bahrain, Saudi Arabia and Qatar, and the Horn of Africa. A white izaar is typically worn underneath thawbs in Oman and the UAE instead of sirwal sunnnah.
Saudis or Saudi Arabians are an ethnic group and nation native to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, who speak the Arabic language, a Central Semitic language, and share a common ancestry, history, and culture. They are mainly composed of Arabs and live in the five historical Regions: Najd, Hejaz, Asir, Tihamah and Al-Ahsa; the regions which the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was founded on or what was formerly known as the Kingdom of Hejaz and Nejd in the Arabian Peninsula. Saudis speak one of the dialects of Peninsular Arabic, including the Hejazi, Najdi, Gulf and Southern Arabic dialects, as a mother tongue.
Khaleegy' or Khaliji is a mixture of modern style and traditional folkloric dance from the Persian Gulf countries of Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Oman, Bahrain, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates. The name of the dance literally means "gulf" in Arabic and it is performed by women at weddings and other social events. Over time it gained popularity among belly dancers.
The keffiyeh or kufiyyeh, also known in Arabic as a hattah, is a traditional headdress worn by men from parts of the Middle East. It is fashioned from a square scarf, and is usually made of cotton. The keffiyeh is commonly found in arid regions, as it provides protection from sunburn, dust, and sand. The regional variations are called ghutrah and shemagh. A head cord, agal, is often used by Arabs to keep the ghutrah in place.
The jellabiya, also jalabiya, galabeya or jalamia is a loose-fitting, traditional garment from the Nile Valley. Today, it is associated with farmers living in Egypt and comes in rich color varieties. The garment is also worn in Sudan, but has other textures and is usually white, as well as some communities from Eritrea and Ethiopia. The colorful Egyptian style is used by both men and women.
Galilee Bedouin are Bedouin living in the Galilee region of Northern Israel. In contrast to Negev Bedouin, Galilee Bedouin come from the Syrian desert. As of 2020, there are about 50,000 Galilee Bedouin, living in 28 recognized settlements and also living in mixed cities with other non-Bedouin Arabs.
Most Sudanese wear either traditional or western attire. A traditional garb widely worn by Sudanese men is the jalabiya, which is a loose-fitting, long-sleeved, collarless ankle-length garment also common to Egypt. The jalabiya is often accompanied by a large turban and a scarf, and the garment may be white, coloured, striped, and made of fabric varying in thickness, depending on the season of the year and personal preferences.
The official national dress in Saudi Arabia is the thawb for men, and the abaya for women. The dress code in Saudi Arabia recommends citizens to wear the official Saudi national dress when visiting government offices and agencies.
expressed their growing opportunities and desires through fashion.