Thawb

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Arab man wearing Thawb along with Keffiyeh, and Agal YoungManWearingThawb.jpg
Arab man wearing Thawb along with Keffiyeh, and Agal

Thawb (Arabic : ثَوْب), also known as Kameez (Arabic : قمیض), is an ankle-length garment, usually with long sleeves. It is commonly worn in the Arabian Peninsula, Pakistan, Iraq, Iran, neighbouring Arab countries, and some countries in East and West Africa. In Pakistan, the garment is popularly known as Kameez. Kameez is also the national dress of Pakistan. [1] [2] Izaar, salwar and lungi are typically worn underneath.

Contents

Colors

Thawbs are usually white in summer and darker colors in the winter and colder days in the Arab Peninsula while in Pakistan, Thawbs are worn of many different colors. The biggest Thawb/Kameez brand in Pakistan is Junaid Jamshed brand.

Etymology

The word thawb is the standard Arabic word for 'a garment'. It is sometimes spelled thobe or thaub. It is a tunic, generally long. The word is used specifically for this garment in Arab states of the Persian Gulf and some areas in the south of Egypt. There has been some debate regarding the correct length of the thawb.

The word "kameez" also derives from the Arabic language for cover. It is sometimes spelled qamis and qameez. According to Wehr's A Dictionary of Modern Written Arabic: " قميص qamīs means covering, cover, case, wrap.

Prevalence

The thawb is commonly worn by men in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, and other Arab countries bordering the Persian Gulf. It is normally made of cotton, but heavier materials such as sheep's wool can also be used, especially in colder climates in Iraq and Syria. [3] The style of the thawb varies slightly among the various regions in the area. The sleeves and the collar can be stiffened to give a more formal appearance. Other names may be used for this garment. In Iraq, Kuwait, the Levant, and Oman, dishdasha is the most common word for the garment; in the United Arab Emirates, the word kandura is used. In Morocco, the sleeves tend to be much shorter so that the thawb may seem more like a long T-shirt and is locally called gandora. The neck also tends to be more open than in its Saudi counterpart and, along with the breast pocket, is often embroidered. It might also lack buttons altogether.

The term thawb is also used to refer to similar women's garments. [4] In the leadup to independence in Sudan, new styles of thawbs became fashionable as Sudanese women "expressed their growing opportunities and desires through fashion." [5] The traditional Palestinian woman's long tunic is also a thawb. This style originated in the early 19th century and is richly embroidered, with different colours and patterns signifying various aspects of the wearer's social position. [6] Since the Nakba, or 1948 Palestinian exodus, the thawb has also come to represent Palestinian political identity. [6]

This garment is also known as kanzu in Swahili, and is commonly worn on the Swahili Coast by Swahili men.

Name variations

Region/countryLanguageMain
Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Qatar, Palestine Hejazi Arabic, Najdi Arabic, Bahraini Arabic, Palestinian Arabic Thawb (ثَوْب)
Levant, Iraq, Kuwait, Oman, Iran Levantine, Iraqi, Khuzestani, Omani & Kuwaiti Arabic; Persian Dishdāshah (دِشْدَاشَة)
Pakistan Urdu, Balochi, Pashto, Sindhi, Saraiki, Bruoshaski Kameez (قمیض)
UAE Emirati/Gulf Arabic Kandūrah (كَنْدُورَة)
Yemen Yemeni Arabic Thaob (ثَوْب)
Upper Egypt, Libya, Chad & Sudan Upper Egyptian, Libyan, Chadian, Sudanese Arabic Jilābiyah (جِلَابِيَة)
Maghreb Maghrebi Arabic, Berber Djellaba (جِلَّابَة)
Greater Somalia Somali Jelabiyad (جلابياد)
Ethiopia Amharic, Afaan Oromoo Mudawwar (مدور)
Eritrea Tigrinya Jehllubeeya
Indo-Malay Peninsula Indonesian, Malay Jubah (جوبة)
Afghanistan Dari, Pashto Pērâhan (پیراهن)
Bangladesh Bengali Thub (تحب)
Turkey Turkish Cübbe
Swahili Coast Swahili Kanzu (كانزو)
Senegal Wolof Khaftaan (خفتان)

Other occasions

A thawb is sometimes worn with a bisht (بِشْت), also known in other parts of the Arabian Peninsula as a mishlah (مِشْلَح) or ʿabāʾ (عَبَاء), meaning 'cloak'. It is usually worn in ceremonial occasions or by officials. A bisht is usually worn by religious clergy, but can also be worn in weddings, Eids, and funerals. It may indicate a status of wealth and royalty, or sometimes a religious position. It was originally manufactured in Syria, Iraq and Jordan, and it is usually worn in Jordan, Syria, Iraq and the Arabian peninsula.

According to H. R. P. Dickson, [7] Bedouin women would mount a brightly coloured thawb on a pole in front of a tent in order to welcome home a traveller or an important person coming to visit. [4]

Rashida Tlaib, a Democratic member of the United States House of Representatives from Michigan and the first Palestinian-American woman elected to that body, wore a thawb to her swearing-in ceremony on January 3, 2019. [8] This inspired a number of Palestinian and Palestinian-American women to share pictures on social media with the hashtag #TweetYourThobe. [9]

See also

Related Research Articles

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Senegalese kaftan

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References

  1. Basic facts about Pakistan, Issue 5 (1950)
  2. Nelson,Lise . Seager,Joni (2008) A Companion to Feminist Geography
  3. Jirousek, Charlotte (2004). "Islamic Clothing". Art, Design, and Visual Thinking. Charlotte Jirousek. Retrieved May 25, 2019.
  4. 1 2 Campbell, Kay Hardy; Corman, Leela (March–April 2016). "The Gown That Steals Your Heart". Aramco World. 67 (2): 24–25.
  5. "'Khartoum at Night' looks at Sudanese history through fashion". University of Kansas Department of History. University of Kansas. August 9, 2017. Retrieved May 25, 2019. expressed their growing opportunities and desires through fashion.
  6. 1 2 Debre, Isabel (February 12, 2019). "Iconic Palestinian robe fashions a new political symbol". AP News. Retrieved May 25, 2019.
  7. Dickson, H.R.P. (2015). The Arab of the desert : a glimpse into Badawin life in Kuwait and Sau'di Arabia. New York, NY: Routledge. OCLC   919302946.
  8. Jennings, Rebecca (January 4, 2018). "Rashida Tlaib's thobe and Ilhan Omar's hijab are making congressional history". Vox .
  9. Zrarick, Karen (January 3, 2018). "As Rashida Tlaib Is Sworn In, Palestinian-Americans Respond With #TweetYourThobe". The New York Times .