Xhubleta

Last updated
Xhubleta
Marubi photograph woman from Grude.jpg
Woman from Grudë wearing a xhubleta in a 19th-century Pietro Marubi photo.
Type Albanian folk skirt
Material Felt and black wool
Place of originAlbania
Xhubleta, skills, craftsmanship and forms of usage
Country Albania
Reference 01880
Region Europe and North America
Inscription history
Inscription2022 (17th session)
List Need of Urgent Safeguarding

The xhubleta is an undulating, bell-shaped folk skirt, worn by Albanian women. It usually is hung on the shoulders using two straps. Part of the Albanian traditional clothing, it has 13 to 17 strips and 5 pieces of felt. The bosom and the part of the xhubleta covered by the apron are made out of crocheted black wool. [1] The bell shape is accentuated in the back part. [2]

The xhubleta is a unique type of dress for its particular shape, structure, and decorating system. [3] It is worn by Albanians in Northern Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia and Montenegro. There are two types of xhubleta: one is narrow and the other is large. [3] In regard to colors, only two colors are nowadays used: the white one for the unmarried women and the black one for the married ones, [3] however in the past many colors were used, as witnessed by a 17th-century author, who claimed that the peacock did not have as many colors as the xhubleta worn by the women of Kelmend. [2] It is thought that the diminishing in colors in the last two centuries is due to the limitation of its use only in remote mountainous areas. [2]

The xhubleta was included in the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding by UNESCO in 2022. [4] [5]

History

The xhubleta has ancient origins. [6] It represents similarities to wearing of some Neolithic figures found in Bosnia, but also in other areas of the Mediterranean region, belonging to the second millennium BC, and linking accordingly with old Mediterranean civilisation. [7] [8] It is usually decorated with Albanian symbolic elements of ancient pagan origins, such as the symbols of the sun, of the moon, of the stars, eagles, and serpents. The mostly geometric ornaments show the archaic character of this costume. [8]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Culture of Albania</span> Pattern of human activity and symbolism associated with Albania and its people

Albanian culture or the culture of Albanians is a term that embodies the artistic, culinary, literary, musical, political and social elements that are representative of Albanians. Albanian culture has been considerably shaped by the geography and history of Albania, Kosovo, parts of Montenegro, parts of North Macedonia, and parts of Northern Greece, traditional homeland of Albanians. It grew from that of the Paleo-Balkan cultures, including Proto-Albanian, Illyrian, Thracian, Dacian, with their pagan beliefs and specific way of life in the wooded areas of far Southern Europe. Albanian culture has also been influenced by the Ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Qeleshe</span> White brimless felt cap traditionally worn by Albanians

The qeleshe, plis, qylaf or kësul is a white brimless felt skull cap traditionally worn by Albanians. It has spread throughout Albanian-inhabited territories, and is today part of the traditional costume of the Albanians. The height and shape of the cap varies region to region.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Folk costume</span> Expression of identity through clothing, usually associated with a geographic area

A folk costume expresses a national identity through clothing or costume, which is usually associated with a specific region or period of time in history. It can also indicate social, marital, or religious status. If the costume is used to represent the culture or identity of a specific ethnic group, it is usually known as ethnic costume. Such costumes often come in two forms: one for everyday occasions, the other for traditional festivals and formal wear. The word "costume" in this context is sometimes considered pejorative due to the multiple senses of the word, and in such cases "clothing", "garments" or "regalia" can be substituted without offense.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kaftan</span> Traditional elongated cloak-like garment

A kaftan or caftan is a variant of the robe or tunic. Originating in Asia, it has been worn by a number of cultures around the world for thousands of years. In Russian usage, kaftan instead refers to a style of men's long suit with tight sleeves.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fustanella</span> Traditional pleated skirt-like garment worn by men of the Balkans

Fustanella is a traditional pleated skirt-like garment that is also referred to as a kilt worn by men in the Balkans.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Serbian traditional clothing</span>

Serbian traditional clothing, also called as Serbian national costume or Serbian dress, refers to the traditional clothing worn by Serbs living in Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, and the extended Serbian diaspora communities in Austria, Australia, Bulgaria, Canada, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, North Macedonia, Romania, Russia, Slovenia, United States, etc. Like any traditional dress of a nation or culture, it has been lost to the advent of urbanization, industrialization, and the growing market of international clothing trends. The wide range of regional folk costumes show influence from historical Austrian, Hungarian, German, Italian, and Ottoman Turkish presence. Nonetheless, the costumes are still a pinnacle part of Serbian folk culture. From the 19th century and onwards, Serbs have adopted western-styled clothing. This change has started in larger settlements such as cities and towns, although it was not uncommon to see rural women in traditional working costumes all the way until the end of 1970s. Today, these national costumes are only worn by some elderly in rural areas but are most often worn with connection to special events and celebrations, mostly at ethnic festivals, religious and national holidays, weddings, tourist attractions, and by dancing groups who dance the traditional Serbian kolo, or circle dance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chokha</span> High-necked wool coat worn by men in the Caucasus

A chokha, also known as a cherkeska, is a woolen coat with a high neck that is part of the traditional male dress of peoples of the Caucasus. It was in wide use among Avars, Abazins, Abkhazians, Eastern Armenians, Azerbaijanis, Balkars, Chechens, Circassians, Georgians, Ingush, Karachays, Nogais, Ossetians, Tats, the peoples of Dagestan, as well as Terek and Kuban Cossacks who adopted it from the aforementioned peoples.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Malaysian cultural outfits</span> Malaysian clothing

Pakaian is the term for clothing in Malaysia's national language. It is referring to things to wear such as shirts, pants, shoes etc. Since Malaysia is a multicultural nation: Malay, Chinese, Indian and hundreds of other indigenous groups of Malay peninsula and Borneo, each has its own traditional and religious articles of clothing all of which are gender-specific and may be adapted to local influences and conditions. Previously, traditional clothes were worn daily. However, by excluding Baju Melayu, Baju Kurung many are now only worn on special occasions such as marriage ceremonies and cultural events.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Palestinian traditional costumes</span> Traditional clothing of the Palestinians

Palestinian traditional clothing are the types of clothing historically and sometimes still presently worn by Palestinians. Foreign travelers to Palestine in the 19th and early 20th centuries often commented on the rich variety of the costumes worn, particularly by the fellaheen or village women. Many of the handcrafted garments were richly embroidered and the creation and maintenance of these items played a significant role in the lives of the region's women.

The traditional Albanian clothing includes more than 500 different varieties of clothing in all Albania and the Albanian-speaking territories and communities. Albania's recorded history of clothing goes back to classical times. It is one of the factors that has differentiated this nation from other European countries, dating back to the Illyrian period.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Croatian national costume</span>

Croatian national costume, also called as Croatian traditional clothing or Croatian dress, refers to the traditional clothing worn by Croats living in Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, with smaller communities in Hungary, Austria, Montenegro, and Romania. Since today Croats wear Western-style clothing on a daily basis, the national costumes are most often worn with connection to special events and celebrations, mostly at ethnic festivals, religious holidays, weddings, and by dancing groups who dance the traditional Croatian kolo, or circle dance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Xhamadan</span> Traditional garment worn by Albanian men

A xhamadan or xhamadani is a traditional wool garment worn by Albanian men. It can be sleeved or sleeveless. The sleeveless xhamadan is only one type of the Albanian vest, the other two being the xhamadani me reshme, and the xhamadani fermele. The xhamadani me reshme went out of use around the beginning of the 20th century. whereas the xhamadan and the xhamadani fermele continue to be used in traditional festivities. A good xhamadan is usually richly embroidered, sometimes in gold: in the past its quality revealed social rank.

Opinga are traditional shoes worn by Albanians in Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia (opinci), Montenegro, Greece, and the Arbëresh villages of Italy. They were also worn by countrymen in Romania (opinca), Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina (opanak), Bulgaria (opinka), and other countries. They are made of a single leather skin, formed to the feet with leather or wool strips. A southern Albanian variety of opinga are the typical turned up leather shoes with red and black wool pompoms on the ends, which are often used for folk dances.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Traditional clothing of Kosovo</span>

Traditional clothing is one of the factors that has differentiated this nation from neighboring countries, dating back as far as the Illyrian era.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cultural heritage of Kosovo</span> Overview of the cultural heritage

Kosovo is a partially recognized state and disputed territory located in the Balkan Peninsula in Southeastern Europe. The majority of Kosovars are ethnically Albanian. Kosovo has an expansive cultural heritage, including monuments, clothing items, museums, and traditional food.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kazakh clothing</span> Clothing worn by the Kazakh people

Kazakh clothing, worn by the Kazakh people, is often made of materials suited to the region's extreme climate and the people's nomadic lifestyle. It is commonly decorated with elaborate ornaments made from bird beaks, animal horns, hooves and feet. Although contemporary Kazakhs usually wear Western dress, the Turkic people wear more traditional clothing for holidays and special occasions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Andromaqi Gjergji</span> Albanian ethnologist (1928–2015)

Andromaqi Gjergji was an Albanian ethnologist who was a specialist in Albanian costumes and dress.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Highlands of Gjakova</span>

The Highlands of Gjakova or Gjakova Highlands, known colloquially as Tropoja, refers to the mountainous ethnographic region in the eastern Albanian Alps that sits between north-eastern Albania and western Kosovo, serving as the historical centres of the Albanian Gashi, Krasniqi, Bytyqi, Morina, Nikaj and Mërturi tribes. Traditionally, parts of the Gjakova Highlands that are now located in southern Montenegro were used as pasturelands by the local Albanian tribes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gashi Valley</span> Protected area in Albania

Gashi Valley is a strict nature reserve located in northern Albania. Along with Rrajcë, it forms the transnational Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe, encompassing 94 nature sites, in 18 European countries.

Tole Lekë Berishaj is an Albanian-born costume designer, known as the last woman to knit Xhubleta.

References

  1. Gjergji, Andromaqi (2004). Albanian Costumes Through the Centuries: Origin, Types, Evolution. Academy of Sciences of Albania. p. 153. ISBN   978-99943-614-4-1.
  2. 1 2 3 Selami Pulaha; Seit Mansaku; Andromaqi Gjergji (1982). Shqiptarët dhe trojet e tyre. 8 Nëntori. pp. 136–138.
  3. 1 2 3 Etudes et documents balkaniques et méditerranéens. Paul Henri Stahl. 2001. pp. 34–37.
  4. "UNESCO - Xhubleta, skills, craftsmanship and forms of usage". ich.unesco.org. Retrieved 2022-12-13.
  5. "Xhubleta shqiptare, tashmë pasuri e gjithë njerëzimit, UNESCO e merr në mbrojtje bashkë me dijebërjen e saj! Margariti: Vendim unanim, copëz Shqipërie për botën - Shqiptarja.com". shqiptarja.com (in Albanian). Retrieved 2022-12-13.
  6. Gjergji 2004, p. 185.
  7. "Database of Cultural Heritage of Kosovo". Archived from the original on 2019-09-21. Retrieved 2015-12-24.
  8. 1 2 Condra, Jill (2013-04-09). Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing around the World [2 volumes]. ISBN   9780313376375.