Tapis (Indonesian weaving style)

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Tapis
Kain tapis.JPG
Tapis being sold at the store in Indonesia
TypeArt Fabric
Material silk, cotton, gold, silver
Place of origin Lampung, Indonesia [1] [2] [3] [4]

Tapis (Surat Ulu: ꤳꤶꥇꤼ꥓; Indonesian : kain tapis or simply tapis) is a traditional Tenun style and also refers to resulting cloth that originated from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. [5] [6] [7] [8] It consists of a striped, naturally-coloured cloth embroidered with warped and couched gold thread. Traditionally using floral motifs, it has numerous variations. It is generally worn ceremonially, although it can be used as a decoration. It is considered one of the symbols of Lampung and Lampungese. [9]

Contents

Production

Tapis craftswoman embroider the basic design pattern in the tapis-making process at Lampung, Indonesia Dekranasda Lampung - panoramio.jpg
Tapis craftswoman embroider the basic design pattern in the tapis-making process at Lampung, Indonesia

Tapis is generally made by Lampungese women. It consists of a woven, naturally coloured fabric with warped gold and silk embroidery. [10] [11] The gold thread, shaped in stripes, chevrons, and checks, contrasts the colours of the fabric. [10] [11] Tapis can also be decorated with beads, mica chips, or old colonial coins. [10] [12] [13]

The gold embroidery is affixed using couching techniques, minimalizing waste. [14] The gold thread is attached in sections, then couched with a different, less expensive, thread at turns. This ensures that none of the gold thread is used in a non-visible area. [14] [15]

Traditionally, tapis has floral motifs. However, modern tapis may also be based on the weaver's own design and include non-floral motifs, such as Arabic calligraphy. [13] Other designs may include snakes, ships, and mythical creatures. [11] Some tapis, called tapis tua (old tapis), are covered entirely in golden embroidery. [16]

Although generally produced by Lampungese home industries, tapis is also produced in other areas, including Kendal, Central Java [10] and Pisang Island. [17]

Use

A Lampungese woman (right) wearing a tapis sarong, with old coins hanging from the bottom COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Een echtpaar uit Lampung (Sumatra) in adatkostuum TMnr 10002793.jpg
A Lampungese woman (right) wearing a tapis sarong, with old coins hanging from the bottom

Traditionally, tapis is worn as a sarong for weddings, Eid ul-Fitr celebrations, and welcoming ceremonies. However, tapis can also be used as a wall decoration. [13] When worn, it forms a cylinder around the wearer's legs. [18]

Reception

Tapis has come to be seen as a symbol of Lampung. [10] Some people describes tapis as having "exceptional beauty and sophistication", [19] while some describes viewing tapis as "like seeing countless possibilities in art and life portrayed in cloth". [15]

The price of tapis reflects its age. Generally, the older a tapis the more it costs. Antique tapis are also collectors items, collected by both Indonesians and foreigners. [10]

See also

Related Research Articles

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Described by generations of foreign ethnographers and collectors as "ship cloths" because of the predominance of a ship motif, they were said to represent the "ship of the dead." In Sumatra these cloths are also called sesai balak. No convincing field data were ever collected from 19th century weavers or traditional owners about the iconography. Since then, there has been great loss of Lampung traditional knowledge. The history of these ships cloth is obscure and the reasons for both their original use and their decline remain conjectural.. The factors that are presumed to have caused this include the abolition of slavery in 1859, the decline in the pepper trade and changing marriage traditions. Two lesser known forms are the tatibin and the tampan maju. The tatibin are similar in design to the single ship palepai but are smaller, not exceeding 1.5 M. The tampan maju beaded and also shorter than the large cloths. Only 12 examples of tampan maju are known to exist.

Balinese textiles Native Indonesian weaving style of Balinese

Balinese textiles are reflective of the historical traditions of Bali, Indonesia. Bali has been historically linked to the major courts of Java before the 10th century; and following the defeat of the Majapahit kingdom, many of the Javanese aristocracy fled to Bali and the traditions were continued. Bali therefore may be seen as a repository not only of its own arts but those of Java in the pre-Islamic 15th century. Any attempt to definitively describe Balinese textiles and their use is doomed to be incomplete. The use of textile is a living tradition and so is in constant change. It will also vary from one district to another. For the most part old cloth are not venerated for their age. New is much better. In the tropics cloth rapidly deteriorates and so virtue is generated by replacing them.

Geringsing Double ikat woven fabric of Bali

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Textiles of Sumba Native Indonesian weaving style of Sumbanese

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Islamic embroidery Embroidery styles of the Islamic world

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References

Footnotes
  1. Totton, Mary Louise (2009). Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America: Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. ISBN   978-0944722374.
  2. Mary, Louise Totton (1994). "A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond". Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts. 68 (3). Retrieved 15 March 2021.
  3. Richter, Anne (1994). "Arts and crafts of Indonesia". Chronicle Books Llc.
  4. Wardwell, Anne E (1985). "Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra". The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art. 72 (5).
  5. Totton, Mary Louise (2009). Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America: Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. ISBN   978-0944722374.
  6. Mary, Louise Totton (1994). "A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond". Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts. 68 (3). Retrieved 15 March 2021.
  7. Richter, Anne (1994). "Arts and crafts of Indonesia". Chronicle Books Llc.
  8. Wardwell, Anne E (1985). "Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra". The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art. 72 (5).
  9. Subagio, Puji Yosep (1999). "North Coast Java Batik" (PDF). Tokyo University. Retrieved 15 March 2021.[ dead link ]
  10. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Oyos Saroso (22 January 2007). "Rusiana Makki, empowering women through 'tapis'". The Jakarta Post. Archived from the original on 24 March 2012. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
  11. 1 2 3 Maxwell 2003 , pp. 112–113
  12. Rodgers, Summerfield & Summerfield 2007 , p. 36
  13. 1 2 3 Nia S. Kim (10 June 2001). "Lampung offers a whole lot more besides jungle adventures". The Jakarta Post. Archived from the original on 12 October 2012. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
  14. 1 2 Maxwell 2003 , p. 316
  15. 1 2 Forshee 2006 , p. 144
  16. ( Maxwell 2003 , p. 184)
  17. Backshall 2003 , p. 502
  18. Maxwell 2003 , p. 319
  19. Stevie Emilia (10 April 2011). "Journeying through textile traditions". The Jakarta Post. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
Bibliography