Yeosu,[a] formerly romanized as Yosu, is the second largest city in South Jeolla Province, South Korea. In 1998, the Old Yeosu City, Yeocheon City and Yeocheon County were merged and the current city, Yeosu, was formed.
The city of Yeosu consists of the Yeosu peninsula as well as 365 islands[2] (48 inhabited, 317 uninhabited). Being midway along the southern coast of South Korea, it is flanked by Namhae County in South Gyeongsang Province to the east with a natural waterway, and the Bay of Suncheon to the west and northwest, the city of Suncheon sprawling along its banks. On 1 April 1998, the cities of Yeosu and Yeocheon, along with Yeocheon County merged to form the unified city of Yeosu.
The place name "Yeosu" first appears in the Samguk Sagi Jiriji with the record: "Haeeup-hyeon (海邑縣) was originally Baekje's Wonzon-hyeon (猿村縣), but King Gyeongdeok changed its name. It is now Yeosu-hyeon (麗水縣) in Goryeo.[6]" In both Dongramdo(part ofDonggukyeojiseungram)and Dongyeobigo (Jeollado's part), the name "Suyoung" (水營) is noted on the southern peninsula south of Suncheon and Gwangyang. This is believed to be because Jeollado's Jwasuyoung (Joseon Dynasty's Naval Headquarters for eastern sector of Jeolla Province) was established in this region starting in 1479 (the 10th year of King Seongjong's reign). Subsequently, most old maps depict it as "Yeosu" (呂水), written differently from the current Hanja. Specifically, in the Haedongdo (Suncheon) map, Jwasuyoung appears south of Yeosumyeon (呂水面).[7]
The Neolithic sites in Yeosu were excavated and investigated by the National Gwangju Museum from 1989 to 1990. The artifacts unearthed include various types of pottery such as Yunggimong pottery, Apinmung pottery, Chimsunmung pottery, Jeomnyeolmung pottery, Juchil pottery, and Mummun pottery, as well as stone tools including milgae (hammerstones), jjikkgae (flint tools), jargegae (sickles), geukkeogae (scraping tools), saegigae (engraving tools), doggi (axes), galdol (grinding stones), and suttol (whetstones). Additionally, two residential sites were investigated.[8]
The residential sites were constructed by compacting clay over shell layers, with diameters ranging from 460 to 540 centimeters, and featured a circular, flat layout equipped with round kilns. Notably, at the first residential site, a set of tools including a moru-dol (grindstone), galpan (grinding plate), and another galdol (grinding stone) were found near the kiln area. These tools allowed for the crushing or grinding of materials to produce powder, which drew significant attention. The radiocarbon dating of the Songdo shell mound indicated an age of 4285±195 BP and 4270±200 B.C.[8]
In 1992 and 1993, surface surveys were conducted in the islands of Yeosu, leading to the additional investigation of 22 Neolithic shell mounds and 3 artifact dispersal sites. This revealed that the island regions of Yeosu, along with the coastal areas of South Gyeongsang Province, were cultural centers of the Neolithic period. The site locations were predominantly situated in bays suitable for various shellfish habitats, being safe from sea winds and featuring well-developed shell pits. The collected artifacts were similar to those unearthed from the Songdo shell mound, and a considerable number of Yunggimong pottery, which is dated to a relatively early period, were excavated.[8]
Proto Three Kingdoms Period
In the Yeosu region during the Proto Three Kingdoms Period period, there appears to have been Wonji-guk (爰池國), one of the Mahan confederations. However, in the late 4th century, as Baekje expanded its power, several small states located in the present-day Jeollanam-do region came under Baekje's influence. Baekje did not immediately reorganize these small states into counties (郡縣) or dispatch local governors. Instead, Baekje recognized the authority of the chieftains of these small states and exercised indirect control through them by collecting tributes. It is believed that the Yeosu region was incorporated into Baekje under such circumstances.[9]
Three Kingdoms Period
In the mid-5th century, Baekje's national power was significantly weakened due to Goguryeo's southward expansion. Additionally, as the Gaya Kingdom advanced into the lower regions of the Namyun and Seomjin rivers, the eastern part of Jeollanam-do was temporarily incorporated into Daegaya (Great Gaya). In 538, Baekje moved its capital to Sabi-seong and divided the entire country into five regions (五方) centered around the central, eastern, western, southern, and northern areas. In each region, Baekje established Bangseong (方城) and governed through these large and small fortresses, managing them as counties (郡) or prefectures (縣). In the southern region, now corresponding to Suncheon, Yeosu, and Gwangyang areas, Sapyeong-gun (歃平郡) was established.
Within Sapyeong-gun, there were three counties: Wonzon (猿村), Maro (馬老), and Dolsan (突山). Wonzon-hyeon (猿村縣) covered the Yeosu Peninsula, while Dolsan-hyeon (突山縣) included Dolsan-do and nearby islands. From this time, the Yeosu region saw the first establishment of counties named Wonzon and Dolsan.
Representative Baekje-era relics remaining in Yeosu include mountain fortresses such as Woram Mountain Fortress located in Dolsan Pyeongsari, Temi Mountain Fortress in Seonwon-dong, Jasan Mountain Fortress in Olim-dong, Gorak Mountain Fortress in Munsu-dong, and Jukpo-ri Bon Mountain Fortress in Dolsan. However, in 660, Baekje was defeated by Silla, and the Yeosu region was incorporated into Silla's territory.[9]
Unified Silla Period
After the unification of the Three Kingdoms, Silla reorganized its local administrative structures to govern the expanded territories. The reorganization began around 677 (the 17th year of King Munmu's reign), after expelling the Tang forces, and continued through 687 (the 7th year of King Sinmun's reign), culminating in the establishment of the Nine Provinces and Five Subordinate Capitals (九州五小京) system. This system allowed Silla to directly control both the former territories of Baekje and Goguryeo and its own territories from the central government by dispatching administrators to the regions. In December 757 (the 16th year of King Gyeongdeok's reign), the names of the nine provinces and their counties were changed to Hanja names.
Silla's land was divided into provinces (주/ju/州), counties (군/gun/郡), and prefectures (현/hyun/縣), establishing a pyramid-shaped administrative structure with nine provinces. Each province contained counties under them, which were further divided into prefectures. To manage the ruling elites of the conquered regions during the unification process, the provinces were divided into three sub-provinces each, forming a nine-province administration system. Among these, one of the provinces, Muju (武州, also known as Mujinju), governed the present-day Jeollanam-do region. Seungpyeong-gun (昇平郡) within Muju consisted of three hyeon (郡縣), maintaining the same names as in Baekje: Haeeup-hyeon (海邑縣, Yeosu), Yeosan-hyeon (廬山縣, Dolsan), and Heeyang-hyeon (晞陽縣, Gwangyang). Consequently, during the Unified Silla period, the Yeosu region, excluding Samsan-myeon, consisted of Haeeup-hyeon (Yeosu) and Yeosan-hyeon (Dolsan).
Meanwhile, in the Gohung-gun area, Bunchagun (分領郡) was renamed to Bunryeong-gun (分領郡), Jojo-rye-hyeon (조조례縣) was renamed to Chungnyeol-hyeon (忠烈縣), Duhi-hyeon (두힐縣) was renamed to Gangwon-hyeon (薑原縣), and Bisa-hyeon (比史縣) was renamed to Baekju-hyeon. As a result, Samsan-myeon became Gangwon-hyeon (薑原縣).
In 892 (the 6th year of Queen Jinseong's reign), during the chaotic end of the Unified Silla period, Gyeon Hwon established his kingdom with Mujinju as his base, thereby bringing it under the influence of Later Baekje. Around this time, local Yeosu hojoks (호족/korean quasi nobility-gentry), such as Kim Chong (金摠), joined the Later Baekje forces. Conversely, the Dolsan area was under the control of Wang Bongkyu (王逢規) of Gangju (康州).[10][9]
Goryeo dynasty
In 940 (the 23rd year of King Taejo's reign), the national administrative divisions were again reorganized into (주, ju),(부, bu),(군, gun), and (현, hyeon)-the addition of 부/bu. As a result, the Yeosu region, which was previously known as Haeeup-hyeon (海邑縣, Yeosu) and Yeosan-hyeon (廬山縣, Dolsan) during the Unified Silla period, was renamed to Yeosu-hyeon (麗水縣) and Dolsan-hyeon (突山縣) respectively. Although the name Yeosu (麗水) appeared for the first time at this point, both areas were still under the jurisdiction of Seungpyeong-gun (昇平郡, Suncheon).
Even in the early Goryeo period, remnants of militarized local powers remained in the regions. By the time of King Seongjong, the entire country had transitioned into a centralized governance system. Prior to this centralization, except for the western capital Seogyeong(modern day Pyongyang), Daedohobus(대도호부/大都護府), 'jin' s (진), 'ju' s (주), 'bu' s (부), 'gun' s (군), and 'hyun' s (현) did not have residential governors dispatched from the central government. Instead, semi-autonomous organizations known as hyangho were entrusted with local administration, while central officers such as Geumyoo (금유/今有) and Jo-jang (조장/租藏), responsible for tax collection, and Jeonunsa (전운사/轉運使), responsible for delivering the collected taxes to the central government, were periodically dispatched to tour the regions.
Starting in 983 (the 2nd year of King Seongjong's reign), residential governors (목사/moksa/牧使) were officially dispatched following the establishment of twelve 'mok's (牧) in the regions. These moksas were assigned to twelve provinces: Gwangju (廣州), Yangju, Chungju, Cheongju, Gongju, Jinju, Sangju, Jeonju, Naju, Hwangju, and Haeju. Their role was to oversee their respective provinces and the local administrative units (hyangjip/鄕職) within the counties and districts. The exact boundaries and the number of hyangjip under each mok were not documented.
In the South Jeolla Province region, the province of Muju (武州, also known as Mujinju)—one of the nine provinces of Unified Silla—was dissolved and replaced by Naju and Seungju (昇州, Suncheon) as part of the twelve mok. At this time, Yeosu was under the jurisdiction of Seungju.
In 995 (the 14th year of King Seongjong's reign), the administrative divisions were reorganized once again. The nation was divided into four Daedohobus(대도호부/大都護府) and ten provinces (도/do). Additionally, the twelve mok were transformed into twelve joldo-sa (절도사)s. The ten provinces were Gwannae (관내;关内), Jungwon (중원;中原), Hanan (하남;河南), Gangnam (강남;江南), Haeyang (해양;海陽), Yeongnam (영남;嶺南), Yeongdong (영동;嶺東), Sannam (산남;山南), Sakbang (삭방;朔方), and Paeseo (패서;浿西). The Jeollanam-do region fell under Haeyang-do (海陽道), and Yeosu was governed by Seungju Joldo-sa (昇州節度使), overseeing Yeosu-hyeon (麗水縣) and Dolsan-hyeon (突山縣).
In 1018 (the 9th year of King Hyeonjong's reign), another reorganization took place, dividing the country into four Daedohobus(대도호부/大都護府), eight moks (8목; Gwangju, Chungju, Cheongju, Jinju, Sangju, Jeonju, Naju, Hwangju), fifty-six 'ji-gun-sa' s(56주지군사), twenty-eight 'jin-jang' s (28진장), and twenty 'hyun-young' s (20현령). This reorganization resulted in Naju becoming one of the eight moks. At this time, Yeosu-hyeon and Dolsan-hyeon were incorporated into Seungpyeong-gun (昇平郡) under Naju and continued to exist until the late Goryeo period. Dolsan-hyeon was temporarily abolished but was reestablished. In 1350 (the 2nd year of King Chungjeong's reign) it was promoted to Juyeop (주읍),separated from Suncheonbu (순천부) and became an independent administrative entity, continuing for 47 years until the early Joseon period in 1396 (the 5th year of King Taejo's reign). Additionally, during the Goryeo period, the Yeosu region included other areas such as Sam-ilpo-hyang, Jinrye-bugok, and Sora-po-bugok alongside Yeosu-hyeon and Dolsan-hyeon.[11][12]
Joseon dynasty
Beginning in 1479, the Joseon Dynasty's Naval Headquarters for eastern sector of Jeolla Province was located there. As such, it was the first base where Admiral Yi Sun-sin's fleet was based during the Imjin War which used the Turtle Ship or 'Kobukseon' which was built in Seon-so.[13]
In October 1948, the town of Yeosu was taken by South Korean soldiers who refused to take part in the suppression of the ongoing Jeju Uprising.
On December 25, 1920, Yeosu Station started to operate as a railway that connects Yeosu and Gwangju. On October 1, 2011, however, the station was relocated to Deokchung-dong and renamed Yeosu Expo station, as the venue served for Yeosu World Expo in 2012.
In the 142nd General Assembly of BIE, held in Paris on 26 November 2007, the global community selected Yeosu as the host city for the 2012 World Expo. This was Korea's second World Expo, following Daejeon's 1993 Fair.
Hyangiram Sunrise Festival (여수향일암일출제) is an annual festival that begins on New Year's Eve. The festival consists of other activities and cultural events such as fireworks, folk street music, and lighting of wishes.[citation needed]
Yeongchwisan is a culturally important mountain in the city. There are two Buddhist Temples on the mountain: Geumseongdae and Dosolam Hermitage, where ritual ceremonies and prayers were held during ancient days. Also known for its azalea flower blossoms, an azalea festival is held annually on the mountain in April during spring.
Model of a turtle ship
In the harbour there is a full-size model of one of Admiral Yi's turtle ships, which are timber shelled vessels that were used with great success against the Japanese navy.
Manseongri Beach near Yeosu has volcanic 'black' sand and is popular with Korean tourists. Recently, the famous Korean band Busker Busker made a song based on Manseongri Beach's night view. This popularised the site with Korean tourists.[17] There are public showers and restrooms as well as on-duty lifeguards. Many restaurants located along the beach have beach-side tables and serve various seafood dishes. It is possible to take ferries to many of the local islands for an authentic taste of rural Korean food.
Dolsan Bridge has changing lights at night. It is a 450-metre-long (1,480ft) bridge connecting downtown Yeosu with Dolsan Island.
Big-O show is a famous show in Yeosu which features an ocean fountain event and a hologram show.[22] The show consists of three parts. The fountain spouts in accordance with classic and jazz music. Unique to this fountain is a large round steel frame at its centre.
The Ocean Resort is home to Yeosu's only waterpark. It offers condominium-style rooms and other facilities. Located in Soho-dong, the resort overlooks the yacht marina.[23]
Yeosu Hamel Museum: In 1668, Hamel published an article about his special experiences in Korea titled "Hamel's Journal and a Description of the Kingdom of Korea 1653-1666." This is the first article to introduce Korea to Europeans. A copy of the diary is now on display in the museum.[26]
Local specialities
Gejang, or marinated raw crab is a representative speciality of Yeosu and a traditional Jeolla cuisine dish.[27]
Yeosu has a humid subtropical climate (Köppen: Cwa) with very warm summers and cold winters. Rainfall is much heavier in the summer, with June to August recording over 200 millimetres (7.9in) of rainfall per month. The highest temperature ever recorded is 37.1°C (98.8°F) on 20 July 1994[29] while the lowest temperature ever recorded is −12.6°C (9.3°F) on 16 February 1977.[30]
Climate data for Yeosu (1991–2020 normals, extremes 1942–present)
Korea has had administrative districts that can be considered provinces since the 7th century. These divisions were initially called ju in Unified Silla and Later Baekje, and there were nine in total. After Goryeo conquered these states in the 10th century, twelve divisions called mok were established, although they were reorganized into ten do in the 11th century.
Goryeo was a Korean state founded in 918, during a time of national division called the Later Three Kingdoms period, that unified and ruled the Korean Peninsula until the establishment of Joseon in 1392. Goryeo achieved what has been called a "true national unification" by Korean historians as it not only unified the Later Three Kingdoms but also incorporated much of the ruling class of the northern kingdom of Balhae, who had origins in Goguryeo of the earlier Three Kingdoms of Korea. According to Korean historians, it was during the Goryeo period that the individual identities of Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla were successfully merged into a single entity that became the basis of the modern-day Korean identity. The name "Korea" is derived from the name of Goryeo, also romanized as Koryŏ, which was first used in the early 5th century by Goguryeo; Goryeo was a successor state to Later Goguryeo and Goguryeo.
Daejeon is South Korea's fifth-largest metropolis, with a population of 1.5 million as of 2019. Located in a central lowland valley between the Sobaek Mountains and the Geum River, the city is known both as a technology and research center, and for its close relationship with the natural environment. Daejeon serves as a hub of transportation for major rail and road routes, and is approximately 50 minutes from the capital, Seoul, by KTX or SRT high speed rail.
North Jeolla Province, officially Jeonbuk State, is a Special Self-governing Province of South Korea in the Honam region in the southwest of the Korean Peninsula. Jeonbuk borders the provinces of South Chungcheong to the north, North Gyeongsang and South Gyeongsang to the east and South Jeolla to the south.
South Jeolla Province, also known as Jeonnam (전남), is a province in the Honam region, South Korea, and the southernmost province in mainland Korea. South Jeolla borders the provinces of North Jeolla to the north, South Gyeongsang to the northeast, and Jeju to the southwest in the Korea Strait.
Jeolla Province was one of the historical Eight Provinces of Korea during the Kingdom of Joseon in southwestern Korea. It consisted of the modern South Korean provinces of North Jeolla, South Jeolla and Gwangju Metropolitan City as well as Jeju Province. The provincial capital was Jeonju, the current capital of North Jeolla. The entire inland region was called Honam, which is still commonly used today.
Naju is a city in South Jeolla Province, South Korea.
Suncheon is the largest city in South Jeolla Province, South Korea, with a population of 280,719 as of 2022. It is located in the southeast of the province and is a scenic agricultural and industrial city, known for tourist attractions, such as Suncheon Bay. The port city of Yeosu is around forty minutes south of Suncheon and Gwangyang twenty minutes to the east of the city.
Hampyeong County (Hampyeong-gun) is a county in South Jeolla Province, South Korea.
Geumsan County is a county in South Chungcheong Province, South Korea. It borders Muju County, North Jeolla Province (Jeollabuk-do), which is famous for its ski resort nearby.
Jinju is a city in South Gyeongsang Province, South Korea. It was the location of the first (1592) and second (1593) Sieges of Jinju by Japanese forces during the Imjin War. The Republic of Korea Air Force Education and Training Command is located in the eastern part of the city. There are cultural-historical tourist attractions in Jinju such as Jinju Fortress, the Jinju National Museum, and the Nam-gang Prehistoric Site Museum.
Sancheong County (Sancheong-gun) is a county in South Gyeongsang Province, South Korea.
Uiryeong County is a county in South Gyeongsang Province, South Korea.
Later Baekje was one of the Later Three Kingdoms of Korea, along with Taebong and Silla. Later Baekje was a Korean dynastic kingdom founded by the disaffected Silla general Kyŏn Hwŏn in 900, whom led the local gentry and populace that were in large Baekje descent holding onto their collective consciousness until the twilight days of Later Silla. With the former Silla general declaring the revival of the Baekje kingdom of old, the Baekje refugees from the old territories and a portion of the Rank Six Nobility from Silla seeking the opportunity of rising up the ranks gathered under his leadership. Led by the charismatic and capable Kyŏn Hwŏn who was also a competent field commander, Later Baekje in its early days was advantageous in the power game against the newly found kingdom Goryeo and the declining Silla. However, despite its fertile territories in the Jeolla Province and capable military prowess, it eventually fell to Wang Kŏn's Goryeo army in 936 due to political strife and Kyŏn Hwŏn's defection towards Goryeo. Its capital was at Jeonju, in present-day North Jeolla province.
Kyŏn Hwŏn was the king and founder of Later Baekje, one of the Later Three Kingdoms of Korea, and reigned from 892 to 935. Some records render his name as Chin Hwŏn. He was also the progenitor of the Hwanggan Kyŏn clan. Substantial accounts of his life are preserved in the Samguk sagi, which presents a single narrative, and the Samguk yusa, which presents excerpts about him from various sources.
Seongjong, personal name Wang Ch'i, was the sixth king of the Goryeo dynasty of Korea.
Hoejin is a township in Jangheung County, South Jeolla Province, South Korea.
Sora-myeon, also called as Sora Township, or shortly Sora, is a myeon (township) in Yeosu city of South Jeolla Province, South Korea. The myeon is located in center-western part of the city. The total area of the myeon is 60.5 square kilometres, and, as of the last day of 2010, the population was 12256 people, 5195 houses. The township hall is located in Deogyang-ri. Hwayang-myeon is south and Yulchon-myeon, is north, Samil-dong and the Gwangyang Bay is north-east, Jusam-dong and Yeocheon-dong is east, Ssangbong-dong is south-Easter, and the Yeoja Bay is west.
Naju O clan was one of the Korean clans. Their Bon-gwan was in Naju, South Jeolla Province. According to the research in 2015, the number of Naju O clan was 18152. Their founder was O Eon. He served as government official during Goryeo period and was a descendant of O Cheom who came over from China to Silla during Jijeung of Silla’s reign in Silla dynasty.
Janggundo is a small uninhabited island located in the middle of Yeosu Harbor in Jungang-dong, Yeosu, South Jeolla Province, South Korea. The island has also gone by the name Chamgyeongdo and Daeseom. It is roughly circular, and has a coastline of 600 meters (2,000 ft) and area of 17,851 m2 (192,150 sq ft).
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