Gisborne is a city in northeastern New Zealand and the largest settlement in the Gisborne District (or Gisborne Region). It has a population of 38,200(June 2023).[1]Gisborne District Council has its headquarters in the central city.
The Gisborne area was known in Māori as Tūranganui-a-Kiwa (the "great standing place of Kiwa"), after Kiwa, who arrived on the wakaTākitimu, which landed at Gisborne.[2] The original English language name for the settlement was Tūranga. It was renamed Gisborne in 1870, in honour of New Zealand Colonial SecretaryWilliam Gisborne, although he had no real connection with the area,[3] to avoid confusion with Tauranga.[2]
Te Tauihu Tūranga Whakamana, a sculpture designed by Derek Lardelli and Te Aturangi Nepia-Clamp in the shape of a tauihu (canoe prow) to recognise the Māori ancestors who explored the Pacific Ocean by canoe well before the European Age of Discovery
East Coast oral traditions offer differing versions of Gisborne's establishment by Māori. One legend recounts that in the 14th century the great navigator Kiwa landed at the Tūranganui River first on the waka Tākitimu after voyaging to the region from Hawaiki[6][7] and that Pāoa, captain of the waka Horouta, followed later. An alternative legend recounts that Kiwa waited so long for the Horouta canoe to arrive that he called its final landing place Tūranganui-a-Kiwa (the long waiting place of Kiwa).[8]
A more popular version of events is that Horouta preceded Tākitimu. In 1931, Sir Āpirana Ngata stated that Horouta was the main canoe that brought the people to the East Coast and that Ngāti Porou always regarded Takitimu as "an unimportant canoe".[9] Māori historian Rongowhakaata Halbert affirmed this account, stating that Paoa's crew on the Horouta were the first inhabitants of the East Coast after migrating from Ahuahu or Great Mercury Island.[10][11] Paoa gave his name to various places across the region, most notably the Waipāoa River (Wai-o-Pāoa).[5]
During the 14th century, Māori tribes built fishing villages close to the sea and built pā on nearby hilltops.[7]
Captain Cook landing
Memorial for Te Maro
Gisborne's Kaiti Beach is the place where British navigator Captain James Cook made his first landing in New Zealand upon the Endeavour.[12] Cook had earlier set off from Plymouth, England, in August 1768 on a mission bound for Tahiti. Once he had concluded his duties in Tahiti, Cook continued south to look for a large landmass or continent, before heading west.[8][13]Young Nick's Head was thought to be the first piece of New Zealand land sighted by Cook's party, and so named because it was first observed by cabin boy Nicholas Young on 6 October 1769.[14]
On 9 October, Cook came ashore on the eastern bank of the Tūranganui River, accompanied by a party of men.[8] Their arrival was marred by misunderstanding and resulted in the death and wounding of nine Māori over four days. It was also on the banks of the Tūranganui River that first the township of Turanga, then the city of Gisborne, grew as European traders and whalers began to settle in the river and port area.[7][15]
In 2019, a memorial was erected by Ngāti Oneone on Titirangi, a local hill, to honour Te Maro, who was one of the first casualties of the arrival of the ship Endeavour.[17]
European settlement and town growth
Starting in the early 1830s, traders such as Captain John Harris and Captain George E. Read set up the first trading stations along the Tūranganui river and are attributed to the founding of the town. Over the next 30 years, many more European traders and missionaries migrated to the region. In 1868, the government bought 300 hectares of land for a town site. The town was laid out in 1870 and the name changed from Turanga to Gisborne, after the then colonial secretary, and to avoid confusion with Tauranga. In 1872, Gisborne's first public school was opened and its first newspaper, the Poverty Bay Standard was established.[11] A town council was formed in 1877.[2][7]
Geography
NASA satellite photo of Poverty Bay
Gisborne is on the east coast of New Zealand's North Island, in the southern part of the Gisborne District and on the north side of Poverty Bay. The Poverty Bay flats encompass Gisborne city as well as surrounding areas Mākaraka, Matawhero and Ormond, where vineyards and farms predominate.[18] Gisborne is flat towards the shoreline, but hilly and forested inland.[19]
Gisborne boasts a large stretch of coastline encompassing the Waikanae and Midway, Kaiti, Sponge Bay, Wainui and Makorori white sand beaches, which are popular for swimming and surfing.[20] Sometimes referred to as the 'City of Rivers', Gisborne sits at the convergence of the Waimata, Taruheru and Tūranganui rivers.[21] The Tūranganui, only 1.2 kilometres long, is the shortest river in New Zealand.[22]
Kaiti Hill (Titirangi), which sits directly above Cook's landing site,[23] provides expansive views over the city and wider Poverty Bay.[24] Many archaeological sites have been identified on Titirangi, including burial grounds, terraces, and middens. Titirangi Pā sits near the summit.[25]
Until Samoa and Tokelau's dateline shift in December 2011, Gisborne claimed to be the first city on Earth to see the sun rise each day. However, this is now only accurate in New Zealand's summer months.[28] Sunrise in Gisborne ranges from 5:36am in early December to 7:26am in late June.[29]
Climate
The region is sheltered by high country to the west. Gisborne enjoys a temperateoceanic climate (Cfb – Köppen climate classification) with warm summers and cool winters, temperatures rarely drop below 0°C (32°F) and occasionally rise above 30°C (86°F)[30] with a yearly average of 2,200 sunshine hours. The annual rainfall varies from about 1,000mm (39in) near the coast to over 2,500mm (98in) in higher inland country.[31] According to the NIWA dataset for 1981–2010 normals, Gisborne narrowly edged several other New Zealand cities to have the warmest summer maxima of official stations.[32]
Winters are slightly cooler than more northerly areas, rendering that over the course of the calendar year, Gisborne is not the warmest station in the country.[33] Even summer mean temperatures are lower than in northerly areas, despite the highs, due to the cooler nights. Despite this, yearly mean temperatures are still some way above average for New Zealand as a whole.
Historical population of Gisborne District[36][37]
Year
Pop.
±%
1986
45,758
—
1991
44,361
−3.1%
1996
45,962
+3.6%
2001
43,971
−4.3%
2006
44,463
+1.1%
2013
43,656
−1.8%
The Gisborne urban area had a usual resident population of 34,527 at the 2018 New Zealand census, an increase of 3,294 people (10.5%) since the 2013 census, and an increase of 3,228 people (10.3%) since the 2006 census. There were 16,623 males and 17,907 females, giving a sex ratio of 0.93 males per female. Of the total population, 8,229 people (23.8%) were aged up to 15 years, 6,603 (19.1%) were 15 to 29, 14,184 (41.1%) were 30 to 64, and 5,511 (16.0%) were 65 or older.[38]
In terms of ethnicity, 58.8% of the population identified as European (Pākehā), 51.6% as Māori, 5.3% as Pacific peoples, 3.5% as Asian, and 1.3% as other ethnicities (totals add to more than 100% since people could identify with multiple ethnicities).[38]
Gisborne had an unemployment rate of 9.4% of people 15 years and over, compared to 7.4% nationally. The median annual income of all people 15 years and over was $24,400, compared to $28,500 nationally. Of those, 41.9% earned under $20,000, compared to 38.2% nationally, while 19.6% earned over $50,000, compared to 26.7% nationally.[36]
Gisborne has the smallest percentage of the population born overseas at 9.7% compared to 25.2% for New Zealand as a whole.[39] The highest of these are British, totalling 1,335 or 3.1% of the population.[40] Furthermore, 73.0% of the population could speak in one language only, 16.2% in two languages and 1.1% in three or more languages.[36]
Individual statistical areas in Gisborne district (2018 census)[41]
The harbour was host to many ships in the past, and had developed as a river port to provide a more secure location for shipping compared with the open roadstead of Poverty Bay, which can be exposed to southerly swells. A meat works was sited beside the harbour and meat and wool were shipped from here. Now the harbour is the home of many smaller fishing boats as well as ships loading logs for export. In February 2018, the first grants from the Provincial Growth Fund included $2.3 million for the Gisborne port.[42]
The city maintains a rural charm and is a popular holiday spot. Local industries include agriculture, horticulture, farming and forestry. Wine production is also valuable to the local economy.
Transport
Air
Gisborne Airport serves as the domestic airport for the Gisborne District. Regular flights between Auckland and Wellington are serviced by Air New Zealand under the Link brand, while the smaller Air Napier provides services to Napier and Wairoa. For 25 years Sunair operated from Gisborne to Hamilton, Rotorua, Napier, Whakatāne, Tauranga, Palmerston North, Paraparaumu and Wellington but those services were suspended in 2022.[43] In 2023 Sunair announced it would give Gisborne another chance with services from Hamilton and Tauranga.[44]
Highways
State Highway 2 connects Gisborne to Tauranga via Ōpōtiki and Whakatāne to the northwest, and to Napier and the rest of Hawke's Bay via Wairoa to the south. SH 2 travels towards Gisborne from the northwest from Te Karaka, a settlement 31km northwest of Gisborne. SH 2 passes through Makaraka, a suburb on the outer fringes of Gisborne. It then crosses the Waipaoa River and makes its way south through Manutuke and Wharerata before it enters the Hawke's Bay Region towards Nūhaka, Wairoa, and eventually on to Napier.
State Highway 35 (part of the Pacific Coast Highway network) begins at a junction west of Gisborne with SH 2 just before SH 2 crosses the Waipaoa River on its way south to Manutuke. SH 35 borders Gisborne Airport to the south and enters Gisborne city on the southwestern fringes. It makes its way through the city out to the east, and continues up the coast, connecting Gisborne to the East Cape.
1916 bus and bullock team outside the Post Office
Public transport
Public transport is poorly developed in Gisborne, with only 0.2% of trips made by bus in 2013/14. This compares with 2.3% nationally,[45] which itself is amongst the lowest proportions in the world.[46]Go Bus is contracted to the council to run 30 services a day on 4 routes Monday to Friday under the Gizzy Bus brand.[47] Gizzy Bus accepts Bee Card for fares, as well as cash.
From 1913 to 1929, Gisborne had battery-powered trams. Since then, public transport has declined to about a fifth of the usage then. In 1930, the municipal buses travelled 6,631mi (10,672km), and carried 28,531 passengers in 2 weeks.[48] In 2012/13 the city buses carried about 78,000 passengers in 52 weeks, at a cost of about $120,000 a year, with about another $85,000 from fares.[49]
Rail
Gisborne is the northern terminus of the Palmerston North - Gisborne Line railway, which opened in 1942 and mothballed (track kept in place, but all services cancelled) in 2012. The permanent way has since suffered storm damage including bridge collapses and the line is believed unlikely to re-open for economic reasons. Prior to this, an isolated section of line operated from Gisborne to Moutohora – intended to be part of a line to Auckland via Rotorua, and later part of the East Coast Main Trunk Railway line. This connection was never completed, and the Moutohora Branch line closed in 1959.
Rail passenger services were provided between Gisborne and Wellington until 1988, when the Endeavour express was cancelled north of Napier. Today, only the Gisborne City Vintage Railway operates limited heritage train rides out of Gisborne.
Culture
Te Tairāwhiti Arts Festival in 2020
Te Poho-o-Rawiri and Te Kuri a Tuatai marae are located in the city suburbs.
The Lowe Street Museum was the first museum in Gisborne, located in the Lowe Street Municipal Offices. In 1955, the collection of Māori artefacts of William Lysner were put in his former residence, Lysner House, which was sold to the city for a nominal sum. It is now known as the Tairāwhiti Museum.[50]
The Tairāwhiti Tamararo Regionals are an annual regional haka competition held in Gisborne in memory of Karaitiana Tamararo.[51]
Gisborne is host to Rhythm & Vines, an annual 3-day music festival held over the New Year at Waiohika Estate. In 2012 and 2013, Rhythm and Vines made skinny-dipping world record attempts.[52]
In rugby union Gisborne is home to Poverty Bay Rugby Football Union, who play in the Heartland Championship. The city is also home to several clubs who compete in the Poverty Bay competition – Horouta Sports Club, High School Old Boys (HSOB) Sports Club, Old Boys Marist (OBM) RFC, Pirates RFC, Waikohu Sports Club, and Young Māori Party (YMP) RFC. There are several other clubs in the wider Gisborne District.
In football, Gisborne Thistle AFC, Gisborne Marist AFC, Gisborne United AFC, Gisborne Bohemians FC, and Riverina AFC compete in competitions organised by the Central Football Federation. The now-defunct Gisborne City AFC won the Chatham Cup in 1987.
Netball in Gisborne is organised by the Gisborne Netball Centre. Netball teams in Gisborne are often associated with rugby or football clubs. Clubs include Horouta, High School Old Girls (HSOG), Old Boys Marist (OBM), Young Māori Party (YMP), and Gisborne Thistle.
Golf, basketball, rowing, hockey, tennis, and squash are also catered to.
Gisborne City was the setting of the 2014 drama film The Dark Horse, a biographical film starring Cliff Curtis about the late speed-chess champion, Genesis Potini. The film was shot in Gisborne and Auckland in the winter of 2013.[60]
In March 2016, Gisborne hosted the premiere of Mahana, a New Zealand film set in Patutahi and Manutuke, and based on Witi Ihimaera's semi-autobiographical novel Bulibasha: King Of The Gypsies.[61]
Sister cities
Gisborne has four sister cities, a sister port, and five friendly cities.[62]
Poverty Bay, officially named Tūranganui-a-Kiwa / Poverty Bay, is the largest of several small bays on the east coast of New Zealand's North Island to the north of Hawke Bay. It stretches for 10 kilometres (6 mi) from Young Nick's Head in the southwest to Tuaheni Point in the northeast. The city of Gisborne is located on the northern shore of the bay and the small settlement of Muriwai is located at the bay's southern end. The name is often used by extension to refer to the entire area surrounding the city of Gisborne.
Young Nick's Head / Te Kurī is a headland at the southern end of Tūranganui-a-Kiwa / Poverty Bay in New Zealand's North Island. The area is the landing place of the Horouta and Te Ikaroa-a-Rauru waka which carried Māori settlers to the region around 1350 AD. In Māori, the promontory is named Te Kuri o Pāoa.
Titirangi is a hill in Gisborne city, New Zealand. It is also known as Kaiti Hill, but this refers to the first ridge overlooking Poverty Bay and Gisborne. The hill is an ancestral site of the Ngāti Oneone hapū (sub-tribe) in Gisborne. It is at the base of this hill that Captain James Cook came ashore, after first sighting New Zealand in October 1769.
Tākitimu was a waka (canoe) with whakapapa throughout the Pacific particularly with Samoa, the Cook Islands, and New Zealand in ancient times. In several Māori traditions, the Tākitimu was one of the great Māori migration ships that brought Polynesian migrants to New Zealand from Hawaiki. The canoe was said to be captained by Tamatea.
In Māori tradition, the canoe Horouta was one of the great ocean-going canoes in which Polynesians migrated to New Zealand approximately 800 years ago.
Te Pihopatanga o Te Tairāwhiti is an episcopal polity or diocese of the Anglican Church in Aotearoa, New Zealand and Polynesia. Literally, the diocese is the Anglican bishopric of the East Coast, in Tairāwhiti, of the North Island of Aotearoa, New Zealand; also known as the synod.
Te Aitanga-a-Hauiti is a Māori iwi (tribe) on the East Coast of New Zealand's North Island. Its rohe covers the area from Tawhiti-a-Paoa Tokomaru Bay to Te Toka-a-Taiau Gisborne on the East Coast of the North Island of New Zealand.
Ngāi Tāmanuhiri is a Māori iwi of New Zealand and were formerly known by the name of Ngai Tahu, and Ngai Tahu-po respectively. They are descendants of Tahu-nui who is also the eponymous ancestor of the Kai Tahu iwi of Te Waipounamu.
Rongowhakaata is a Māori iwi of the Gisborne region of New Zealand.
Te Aitanga-a-Māhaki is one of the three principal Māori iwi of the Tūranga district; the others being Rongowhakaata and Ngai Tamanuhiri. It is numerically the largest of the three, with 6,258 affiliated members as of 2013.
Gisborne District or the Gisborne Region is a local government area of northeastern New Zealand. It is governed by Gisborne District Council, a unitary authority. It is named after its largest settlement, the city of Gisborne. The region is also commonly referred to as the East Coast.
Kaiti is a suburb of the New Zealand city of Gisborne. It is located immediately to the east of the city centre, on the opposing bank of the Waimata River.
Whataupoko is the central residential suburb of the city of Gisborne in New Zealand. It is northeast of the Gisborne Central business district, across the Taruheru River, and north of the suburb of Kaiti, across the Waimata River. The suburb of Mangapapa is north-west of Whataupoko. Significant facilities are the headquarters of the Gisborne District Council and the regional museum, Tairāwhiti Museum, both located near the southern point of Whataupoko at the confluence of the two rivers.
Ruapani was a rangatira (chief) of the Māori in Tūranganui-a-Kiwa in the 15th and 16th century.
Waituhi is a small settlement in the Gisborne District of New Zealand's North Island. It is 21 km (13 mi) northwest of the city of Gisborne, on the western bank of the Waipaoa River. It is notable as the historic site of Popoia pā, and as the setting for several novels and short stories of Witi Ihimaera. Members of the Te Whanau-a-Kai Te Aitanga-a-Māhaki iwi (tribe) are the tangata whenua. In 2009 a project to develop a community drinking water supply was started.
Cook County was one of the counties of New Zealand in the North Island. It was established in 1876 and comprised the areas which today form the counties of Cook, Waikohu, Uawa, Waiapu and Matakaoa County, extending from Cape Runaway in the north to Paritu in the south. It was disestablished in 1989.
The Tūranganui River is a river in the city of Gisborne, New Zealand. Formed by the confluence of the Taruheru River and the Waimata River, it flows through downtown Gisborne to reach the Pacific Ocean at the northern end of Tūranganui-a-Kiwa / Poverty Bay. A memorial to the first landing place in New Zealand by Captain James Cook is located close to the mouth of the river. The entire river is tidal.
Rongowhakaata "Rongo" Pere Halbert was a Māori tribal leader, interpreter, historian and genealogist. He was considered "an eminent authority on Māori literature". Halbert's book Horouta: The History of the Horouta Canoe, Gisborne and East Coast, published posthumously in 1999, is considered a classic of tribal history.
The Gisborne District or Gisborne Region has a deep and complex history that dates back to the early 1300s. The region, on the East Coast of New Zealand's North Island, has many culturally and historically significant sites that relate to early Māori exploration in the 14th century and important colonial events, such as Captain Cook's first landfall in New Zealand.
Puhi Kai Iti / Cook Landing National Historic Reserve commemorates the arrival of both Māori and Pākehā in New Zealand. The Cook Monument, unveiled in 1906, was intended to mark the location where James Cook first landed on the islands in 1769 during his first voyage. The granite obelisk monument is now "barely within sight or scent of the sea", as the shoreline was altered by land reclamation as part of expansion at the port of nearby Gisborne. The reserve is one of three national historic reserves in New Zealand.
1 2 3 Spedding, Michael (October 2006). The Turanganui River: A Brief History(PDF). Department of Conservation in association with NZ Historic Places Trust, Tairawhiti Museum and Eastland Port Co. Ltd. pp.13–29. ISBN0-478-14120-3. Retrieved 28 May 2016.
↑ Tairawhiti Māori Association (1932). Echoes of the Pa: Tairawhiti Māori Association's Research Proceedings 1931–1932. Gisborne Publishing Co.
↑ Halbert, Rongowhakaata (1999). "The Horouta Canoe". Horouta: the history of the Horouta canoe, Gisborne and East Coast. Reed, Auckland, N.Z. pp.26–28. ISBN0790006235.
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