Haute Route

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Two alpinists on the Otemma Glacier on the Haute Route Hauteroute-alps-seabhcan.jpg
Two alpinists on the Otemma Glacier on the Haute Route

The Haute Route (or the High Route or Mountaineers' Route) is the name given to a route (with several variations) undertaken on foot or by ski touring between the Mont Blanc in Chamonix, France, and the Matterhorn, in Zermatt, Switzerland. [1]

Contents

First charted as a summer mountaineering route by members of the English Alpine Club in the mid-19th century, the route takes around 12+ days walking (or 7+ days skiing) for the 180 km from the Chamonix valley, home of Mont Blanc, to Zermatt, home of the Matterhorn. Originally dubbed "The High Level Route" in English by members of the hiking club, the term was translated into French when first successfully undertaken on skis in 1911. Since then the French term has prevailed. While the term haute route has become somewhat genericized for any of the many multi-day, hut-to-hut alpine tours, the "Chamonix-Zermatt Haute Route" remains the original.

Besides the original Haute Route, there is nowadays also a "Walker's" Haute Route, which is an alpine hiking trail that follows a network of well-marked and signposted paths. The "Walker's" route stays below 3000 meters and takes advantage of the popular mountain huts and small inns and hotels in the villages along the way. In the spring, summer and fall, this route is safe, entirely non-technical (requires no ropes, crampons, or protection devices, unlike the actual Haute Route) and while challenging because of its daily elevation gains and distances, is achievable by any hiker in reasonably good physical condition.

The original Haute Route has large portions of glacier travel, for which suitable mountaineering gear and experience is necessary. In the winter, ski touring gear is required, and depending upon the weather and route chosen, may require crampons, ropes and avalanche protection gear.

Summer Haute Routes

There is occasionally a danger of collapsing glaciers which can render the path virtually impassable. However, a lower level variation exists that avoids crossing glaciers. The majority of hikers complete it in 12–16 days [2] [3]

Ski Touring Haute Route

View of Matterhorn and Dent d'Herens from the summit of Tete Blanche, high point of the Haut Route (3,710 m (12,172 ft)) Hauteroute.jpg
View of Matterhorn and Dent d'Hérens from the summit of Tête Blanche, high point of the Haut Route (3,710 m (12,172 ft))

First successfully completed in 1911, the Haute Route ski tour is probably the most famous and coveted ski tour in the world. Using high mountain huts to allow skiers to stay high and cover substantial distances, it winds through the highest, most dramatic peaks of the Alps from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn. It requires good weather, favourable snow conditions and strong effort to complete this line. Because of this, roughly half of the skiers who begin the tour do not complete it.

There are many variations of the HLR (High Level Route) that work their way between Chamonix and Zermatt, including those listed below. [4] It is also possible to add ascents of a number of ski peaks to any of the routes. The winter Haute Route deviates from the summer route to avoid terrain that is dangerous or impassable when snow-covered. Many people also ski the Haute Route in the opposite direction, by variations that select better ascent and descents.

Lionel Claudepierre, a member of PGHM of Bourg Saint Maurice, set a new record of 18h35m on Monday 15 April 2013. [5]

Classic Route

The winter Haute Route's original line which involves long climbs and mountaineering with ice axe and crampons.

Verbier variation

Haute Route
Verbier variation of the Haute Route
 Track
 Commonly done by vehicles
C: Chamonix
T: Cabane du Trient
M: Cabane du Mont Fort
P: Cabane de Prafleuri
D: Cabane des Dix
V: Cabane des Vignettes
Z: Zermatt

The purest skiing line, and the most frequently done.

Grande Lui variation

A longer, harder, more technical route that eliminates the road break of the Verbier and Classic variations.

Vignettes Hut, near Arolla, Switzerland Vignettes.jpg
Vignettes Hut, near Arolla, Switzerland

"Backward" Haute Route

Peaks and passes on the route

See the route descriptions.

Optional ski peak ascents along the listed Haute Route variations include the Mont Blanc, Rosablanche, Pigne d'Arolla, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Mont Vélan, Breithorn. Some of these peak ascents will require an additional day or more, and range from easy to very technical and difficult.

See also

Notes

  1. "2016.07.23-29 – Haute Route Chamonix-Zermatt (7 jours)".
  2. Reynolds 2007.
  3. Stewart 2008.
  4. Cliff 1993.
  5. "Haute Route New Speed Record. Chamonix – Zermatt in 18h35m". SARL Chamonix Networks. Retrieved 4 June 2014.

Related Research Articles

The higher region of the Alps were long left to the exclusive attention of the inhabitants of the adjoining valleys, even when Alpine travellers began to visit these valleys. It is reckoned that about 20 glacier passes were certainly known before 1600, about 25 more before 1700, and yet another 20 before 1800. Even though the attempt of P.A. Arnod, an official of the duchy of Aosta, in 1689 to "re-open" the Col du Ceant may be counted as having been made by a non-native, historical records do not show any further such activities until the last quarter of the 18th century. Nor did it fare much better with the high peaks, though the two earliest recorded ascents were due to non-natives, that of the Rocciamelone in 1358 having been undertaken in fulfilment of a vow, and that of the Mont Aiguille in 1492 by order of Charles VIII of France, in order to destroy its immense reputation for inaccessibility – in 1555 Conrad Gesner did not climb Pilatus proper, but only the grassy mound of the Gnepfstein, the lowest and the most westerly of the seven summits.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chamonix</span> Commune in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France

Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, more commonly known simply as Chamonix (Chamôni), is a commune in the Haute-Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in Southeastern France. It was the site of the first Winter Olympics, held in 1924.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Matterhorn</span> Mountain in the Swiss and Italian Alps

The Matterhorn is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, whose summit is 4,478 metres (14,692 ft) above sea level, making it one of the highest summits in the Alps and Europe. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points and are split by the Hörnli, Furggen, Leone/Lion, and Zmutt ridges. The mountain overlooks the Swiss town of Zermatt, in the canton of Valais, to the northeast; and the Italian town of Breuil-Cervinia in the Aosta Valley to the south. Just east of the Matterhorn is Theodul Pass, the main passage between the two valleys on its north and south sides, which has been a trade route since the Roman Era.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Argentière</span> Village in the French Alps

Argentière is a picturesque skiing, alpine walking and mountaineering village in the French Alps, part of the commune of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, at an altitude of 1,252 m (4,108 ft).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aiguille du Midi</span> Mountain in the French Alps

The Aiguille du Midi is a 3,842-metre-tall (12,605 ft) mountain in the Mont Blanc massif within the French Alps. It is a popular tourist destination and can be directly accessed by cable car from Chamonix that takes visitors close to Mont Blanc.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Monte Rosa</span> Massif in Switzerland and Italy

Monte Rosa is a mountain massif in the eastern part of the Pennine Alps, on the border between Italy and Switzerland (Valais). The highest peak of the massif, amongst several peaks of over 4,000 m (13,000 ft), is the Dufourspitze, the second highest mountain in the Alps and western Europe, after Mont Blanc. The east face of the Monte Rosa towards Italy has a height of about 2,400 metres (7,900 ft) and is the highest mountain wall of the Alps.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Verbier</span> Swiss village

Verbier is a village located in south-western Switzerland in the canton of Valais. It is a holiday resort and ski area in the Swiss Alps and is recognised as one of the premier off-piste resorts in the world. Some areas are covered with snow all year. Skiers have settled in the Verbier area in order to take advantage of the steep slopes, varied conditions, and resort culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mont Blanc massif</span> Mountain range in the Alps

The Mont Blanc massif is a mountain range in the Alps, located mostly in France and Italy, but also straddling Switzerland at its northeastern end. It contains eleven major independent summits, each over 4,000 metres (13,123 ft) in height. It is named after Mont Blanc, the highest point in western Europe and the European Union. Because of its considerable overall altitude, a large proportion of the massif is covered by glaciers, which include the Mer de Glace and the Miage Glacier – the longest glaciers in France and Italy, respectively.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Arolla</span> Village in the canton of Valais in Switzerland

Arolla is a village in the municipality of Evolène in the Swiss canton of Valais. It is situated at the end of the Val d'Hérens, south of the cantonal capital, Sion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Val d'Hérens</span>

Val d'Hérens is an alpine valley in the Valais canton of Switzerland. It was formed by the Hérens glacier, which retreated at the end of the last ice age. It is now the valley of the Borgne river, a tributary of the Rhone

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tour du Mont Blanc</span> Long distance walk in Europe

The Tour du Mont Blanc or TMB is one of the most popular long-distance walks in Europe. It circles the Mont Blanc massif, covering a distance of roughly 165 kilometres (103 mi) with 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) of ascent/descent and passing through parts of Switzerland, Italy and France.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Trient Hut</span> Mountain hut in the Swiss alps

The Trient hut is a mountain hut in the Swiss Alps, near the Swiss town of Martigny and the French town of Chamonix. The hut sits at an altitude of 3,170 m (10,400 ft), on a rock perched above the Trient Glacier. It can be reached on foot by mountaineers and strong hikers with experience of glacier travel. From the hut you can walk to the Albert Premier and Argentière huts in France, as well as the Cabane de Saleina (Switzerland) at the foot of the Aiguille d'Argentière. The hut is run by the SAC, the Swiss Alpine Club, and has 130 beds. It is a popular base for mountaineers exploring the area, e.g. Aiguille du Tour etc.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Michel Croz</span> French mountain guide

Michel Auguste Croz was a Chamoniard mountain guide of the Kingdom of Sardinia and the first ascentionist of many mountains in the western Alps during the golden age of alpinism. He is chiefly remembered for his death on the first ascent of the Matterhorn and for his climbing partnership with Edward Whymper.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tête Blanche</span> Mountain in Switzerland

Tête Blanche is a mountain of the Pennine Alps on the Swiss-Italian border. Its summit is the tripoint between the valleys of Hérens, Mattertal and Valpelline, thus forming the linguistic tri-point between French, German (Mattertal), and Italian -speaking areas.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grande Fourche</span> Mountain in Switzerland

The Grande Fourche is a mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif, located on the Swiss-French border. It lies between the Glacier de Saleina (Valais) and the Glacier du Tour (Haute-Savoie).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aiguilles Dorées</span> Multi-summited mountain of the Mont Blanc massif

The Aiguilles Dorées are a multi-summited mountain of the Mont Blanc massif, overlooking the Plateau du Trient in the canton of Valais. They lie east of the Petite Fourche, on the range between the glaciers of Trient and Saleina.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Val Ferret</span> Name shared by two valleys separated by the Col Ferret

Val Ferret is the name shared by two valleys separated by the Col Ferret, a pass on the border between Italy and Switzerland. The valleys lie southeast of Mont Blanc Massif. The Swiss valley drains northeast towards Orsières and on into the Rhône basin; whereas the Italian valley drains southwest towards Courmayeur and on into the Po basin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Arolla Glacier</span> Glacier situated in the Pennine Alps

The Arolla Glacier is a 4 km (2.5 mi) long glacier (2005) situated in the Pennine Alps in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. In 1973 it had an area of 13.17 km2 (5.08 sq mi).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vignettes Hut</span> Mountain hut in the Swiss Alps

The Vignettes Hut is an alpine hut, located south of Arolla in the Swiss canton of Valais. It lies at a height of 3,160 metres above sea level, at the foot of the Pigne d'Arolla and near the Col de Chermotane in the Pennine Alps. All accesses to the hut involve glacier crossing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aiguille du Chardonnet</span> Mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, France

The Aiguille du Chardonnet is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, France. It lies between the Glacier du Tour and the Argentière Glacier. The border with Switzerland runs just east of the summit. The East or Forbes Arete provides a popular and classic mountaineering route to the summit.

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Further reading