Sussi or susi (Soosey, Sousae) [1] is a term for multicolored striped or checked cloth [1] produced mainly in Sindh. [2] [3] Sussi is thin handloom fabric made of cotton, silk, or a blend of the two, with colored warp stripes. [4] [5] [6] [7] Sindh [8] region was known for its production and exports during the Mughal period. [9] [10] Sussi was most often made with red and blue, blue and white, or green and white stripes, but other patterns were also produced. [9] The fabric was exported to England, where sousaes were in great demand in the 18th century. [1]
Sussi was the umbrella term used for all striped fabrics. [9] [7]
Sussi is a plain fabric with warp vertical stripes. [11] [9] Sussi is produced with cotton, with silk, or with blended cotton and silk. [12] [13] [14]
The fabric was 10 to 20 yards long and one yard in width. [1]
Sussi along with other cotton varieties is produced at Hala, Nasarpur, Hyderabad, Thatta, Hoshiarpur, Gurdaspur, Lahore, Multan, Amritsar, Ludhiana, Jhang, Shahpur, Jalandhar, Delhi, Gurgaon, Rohtak, Karnal, Rewari, Panipat [15] [16] Salari was a type of handloom-produced sussi made at Kalabagh in Mianwali District, Pakistan. [17]
The cloth was used to make lowers such as pajamas and salwars (loose trousers). [12] [9] Blended sussi was used for pajamas and petticoats. [14]
Poplin, also called tabinet, is a fine wool, cotton or silk fabric with crosswise ribs that typically give a corded surface. Nowadays, the name refers to a strong material in a plain weave of any fiber or blend.
Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".
Dowlas was a strong coarse linen cloth of the 16th and 17th centuries, and initially, it was manufactured in Brittany. In the 18th century the fabric was also produced in England and Scotland. Dowlas was identical to sailcloth. The cloth was also imitated in cotton for the same use.
A textile sample is a piece of cloth or fabric designed to represent a larger whole. A small sample, usually taken from existing fabric, is called a swatch, whilst a larger sample, made as a trial to test print production methods, is called a strike off. For plain-dyed fabrics it is called a lab-dip, and for yarn-dyed fabrics, it is called a handloom.
Bourette is a silk fabric with bumps often blended with other yarns made of Bourette fibers. The name "Bourette" is from its constituting fiber. It has a rough surface incorporating multicolored threads and knots of spun silk. The fabric is made with silk bourette and wool or cotton yarn. Bourette is a lightweight single cloth with a rough, knotty, and uneven surface.
Khes is a thick cotton blanket cloth in the Indian subcontinent; it is a damask cloth used for blankets and winter wraps. Khes is generally hand-woven with coarse cotton yarns. Khes as a garment is a simple clothing item to wear loosely to cover the upper body by men in Pakistan and northwest India. Khes is an important cloth in the Sindh and Punjab, regions which are famous for its production and historically has been known for not only the production of Khes but also many other coarse cotton textiles, especially in the 19th and 20th centuries. Khes is a comfort object used in bedding, and is also usable as a cover.
Alacha is a lightweight striped cloth made primarily of silk, sometimes cotton, or a mixture of both. The stripe pattern was evident on both sides of the fabric. A typical length of alacha is five yards. It was produced in various parts of India, for example Baikunthpur, Bihar. The cloth was popular in use for female garments such as dupattas (odhni), veils, and petticoats.
Gulbadan was a kind of striped silk produced in Hindustan. The gulbadan was a light textured cloth of silk and cotton. Gulbadan has vertical variegated stripes with a different color than the base color of the cloth. In appearance, it was similar to a glazed calico, unlike Mashru, which has the satin (lustrous) surface.The contemporary silk piece goods were Daryai and Dhupehan. Gulbadan was available in many color combinations and sizes. Gulbadan of Amritsar and Lahore were famous. "Sufi" was another name for Gulbadan striped fabric.
Agra gauze was a thin, translucent fabric with a loose open weave. The material was made of silk with a plain weave. Agra gauze was also known as Agre. The fabric is named after the Agra city. The cloth was used in trimmings.
Seerhand muslin (Seerhand) was a plain weave thin cotton fabric produced in the Indian subcontinent.
Tapsel was a coarse cotton and silk cloth. It was a woven variety with a striped pattern, and usually a blue color. The fabric dated back to the 18th century and was made in western India.
Barege (Barège) was a lightweight, sheer fabric matching a gauze. It was a union fabric made of silk and wool. Barege was a 19th-century fabric and originated from southwestern France. It takes its name from the town of Barèges but was mostly made in the town of Bagnères-de-Bigorre.
Bayadere was an Indian silk fabric with a horizontal stripe pattern.
Cherryderry was a blended fabric with silk warp and cotton weft, typically with a stripe or check pattern.
Diaper is a damask cloth with small geometrical patterns such as bird's eye or diamond shapes. Terms such as “bird’s eye” or “pheasant’s eye” refer to the size of the diamond in the design. Diaper has been used as a tablecloth.
Alamode (Allamod) was a thin, soft, fine, and lustrous silk material. It was one of England's local silk varieties. However, it was recognized as ''Alamode'' in the early 17th century before it was famous for its use in scarves.
Salembaree is an obsolete variant of cotton cloth that was a coase, stout and heavy fabric. It was made in the Indian subcontinent. The cloth was used for tents in India and Pakistan. Kathee was an alternative name for Salembaree. John Forbes Watson mentions these fabrics under the Canvas category in his work titled Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the people of India.
Nun's veiling was a lightweight cloth made of wool. It was a plain weave fabric used mainly for womens' veils and dresses. Nun's veiling got its name from the fact that it was used in veils by several religious orders.
Faille is a type of cloth with flat ribs, often made in silk. It has a softer texture than grosgrain, with heavier and wider cords or ribs. Weft yarns are heavier than warp, and it is manufactured in plain weaving. It was especially popular in the 19th century.
Limbric was a kind of cotton cloth with a fine warp and a soft, lustrous weft. Limbric has a peculiar construction with more pick density than the ends per inch. The fabric was used for dresses and casement curtains. Made in Limbrick, Lancashire, England originally. Standard dimensions of 72x100 were used, with a warp of 64s and a weft of 30s. The superior quality of cloth was produced by using combed yarns.