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Punjabi Kurta and Tamba are traditional costume for men of Punjab.
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Punjabi Kurta and Tamba are traditional costume for men of Punjab.
The tamba, which is also called tehmat [1] [2] is the Punjabi version of the lungi which has folds at the front and is the traditional dress for Punjabi men. The tamba is worn by Bhangra dancers. Although the use of the Punjabi tehmat in East Punjab has declined in recent years, being replaced by the pyjama, men can be seen wearing the tehmat and its use has not completely stopped. [3] The tamba or the lungi can also be seen on Punjabi men in West Punjab [4] [5] and the Punjabi men of adjoining Hazara, Pakistan (in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). [6] A tehmat is of one colour and has no border. The tehmat or laacha can be long reaching to the heels. It can also be short to just below the knees. [7]
A laacha differs from the tehmat in that it has a border and is variegated so that it has more than one colour. [8] The laacha is popular in West Punjab. [9] The laacha is worn in a like manner to the tehmat except it has more folds. Women in some parts of Punjab wear the tehmat and the laacha, especially the districts of Gujarat, Gujranwala, Shahpur and Muzzafargarh. [10]
The Punjabi kurta [11] is made of two rectangular pieces with side slits, and a front opening [12] below the neck. In the past, it was traditional for men to wear a gold or silver chain (zanjiri) woven around the buttons. [13]
This form of kurta gradually began to replace the older angarkha worn in the Punjab region which fell to the knees, [14] opened to either the left or the right, [15] and was sometimes known as the anga, the older form of the angarkha and is similar to a gown [16] [17] or a loose coat and wadded with cotton. [18] By the 1960s the Punjabi kurta had almost replaced the angarkha but it was still popular in present-day Haryana. [19]
The Punjabi form of kurta is popular throughout the sub-continent. It is for this reason that, in Mithila, West Bengal and Bangladesh [20] the kurta is known as 'Panjabi' as the kurta is associated with the Punjab [21] and considered an article of Punjabi dress. [22] The Punjabi kurta was introduced to Assam by King Garib Niwaj of Manipur during his reign sometime between 1709 A.D. and 1749 [23] A.D. where it is also known as Panjabi. [24] It is also worn in Uttar Pradesh [25] and since the 1960s has been replacing the traditional saluka (short shirt) worn in Madhya Pradesh. [26]
The term kurta is a generic term to cover different types of upper garments worn by men. Kurta refers to the upper garments worn in South Asia inspired from garments worn by Central Asian Turks who spread their use beyond their region, reaching the Indian sub-continent. [27]
The traditional male attire for men in India consisted of the dhoti and an unstitched [28] cloth draped around the shoulders extended to cover the upper body. [29] [30] [31]
However, men in North India especially Rajasthan and the Punjab region [32] wore the jama of the Rajput type, the chola (robe) [33] (which in the Punjab region remained popular in some parts as recent as the 1980s), [34] the Mughal jama and the angarkha as upper garments, which eventually led to different versions of the kurta being developed, such as the Punjabi angarkha, Punjabi kurta, the Gujarati angarkha and the Rajasthani angarkha, also termed ‘kurta’. [35] A non region specific angarkha is also worn in various areas such as in Himachal Pradesh, Uttrakhand and Uttar Pradesh.
The Punjabi kurta also draws inspiration from the Mughal kurta, [36] [37] which was in common use in the region. [38] However, The Mughal kurta was much looser than the Punjabi kurta, had no side slits and the upper part of the Mughal kurta was also very loose.
The other inspiration for the Punjabi kurta is the Punjabi angarkha which was called the old kurta in the early 20th century A.D. [39] and is a loose tunic [40] which falls to below the knees. [41]
During the 11th century C.E., AL Biruni noted [42] women in north India wore the kurtaka which was a short shirt, with sleeves extending to the shoulders, to the middle of the body, and had slashes on the left and the right sides. [43] Thiis similar to the modern Punjabi kurta worn by women [44] and men which has side slits rather than slashes. The use of shirts and trousers was earlier observed in the Punjab region in the 7th century by Hsuan Tsang and I-Tsing. [45]
In modern usage, a short kurta is referred to as the kurti. However, traditionally, the kurti is a short cotton coat [46] [47] (without side slits) and is believed to have descended from the tunic of the Shunga period (2nd century B.C.). [48] The kurti is front opening and is buttoned. Traditionally, a chain of gold or silver called zanjiri is woven into the buttons. [49] The use of the kurti by women has been noted during the 1600s [50] [51] to the present day. The kurti can be front opening from below the neck to the waist, or cover the back but leave the stomach exposed. Some styles fasten at the back or are worn as pullovers with no side slits and font opening.
The kurti also forms part of male dress as a waist coat worn over the kurta. [52]
Before the use of the kurta, people in Jammu traditionally wore the peshwaj [53] which flowed to the ankles. However, the traditional attire now is the kurta and Dogri pajjamma. The use of the kurta was very rare in Kashmir until Kashyap Bandhu encouraged its use in the 1930s cultural revolution. [54]
The Muktsari kurta pajama is the modern Punjabi version of the traditional kurta pajama outfit which is very popular on the sub-continent. [55]
Muktsari kurta pajamas were initially worn by youngsters in the Muktsar area. However, they are now popular all over Punjab. The Muktsari kurtas are snug with lapels on either side and the pyjamas are similar to well-fitted slim pants. [56] The kurta length is short and there's no pleating anywhere. [57]
A kurta is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, and now also worn around the world. Tracing its roots to Central Asian nomadic tunics, or upper body garments, of the late-ancient- or early-medieval era, the kurta has evolved stylistically over the centuries, especially in South Asia, as a garment for everyday wear as well as for formal occasions.
The dhoti, also known as veshti, mardani, chaadra, dhotar, jaiñboh & panchey, is a type of sarong, fastened in between the legs in a manner that it outwardly resembles trousers, sometimes loose but other tighter fittings are worn as well, most popular in India and Nepal. It is a lower garment forming part of the traditional clothing for men in the Indian subcontinent. The dhoti is fashioned out of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 4.5 metres (15 ft) long, wrapped around the waist and the legs and knotted, either in the front or the back.
Clothing in India varies with the different ethnicities, geography, climate, and cultural traditions of the people of each region of India. Historically, clothing has evolved from simple garments like kaupina, langota, achkan, lungi, sari, to rituals and dance performances. In urban areas, western clothing is common and uniformly worn by people of all social levels. India also has a great diversity in terms of weaves, fibers, colors, and the material of clothing. Sometimes, color codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. The clothing in India also encompasses a wide variety of Indian embroidery, prints, handwork, embellishments, and styles of wearing clothes. A wide mix of Indian traditional clothing and western styles can be seen in India.
The lungi is a type of sarong that originated in the Indian subcontinent. The lungi, which usually multicoloured, is a men's skirt usually tied around the lower waist below the navel. It can be worn as casual wear and night wear. It is favoured in hot and humid climates where the airflow it allows makes it more comfortable than alternatives.
Pakistani clothing refers to the ethnic clothing that is typically worn by people in the country of Pakistan and by Pakistanis. Pakistani clothes express the culture of Pakistan, the demographics of Pakistan, and cultures from Punjab, Sindh, Balochistan, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Gilgit-Baltistan, and Kashmir regions of the country. The clothing in each region and culture of Pakistan reflect weather conditions, way of living, the textiles and embroidery used and its distinctive style which gives it a unique identity among all cultures.
Sattu is a type of flour, mainly used in Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan, and India. It consists of a mixture of roasted ground pulses and cereals. The dry powder is prepared in various ways as a principal or secondary ingredient of dishes. Sattu is used in vegetarian cuisine as it can be a source of protein.
Shalwar kameez is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia, and Central Asia.
The Punjabi ghagra is a four-piece outfit known as tewar or 'ti-or' which was traditionally worn by Punjabi women throughout the Punjab region with the outfit comprising a head scarf (Phulkari), kurta or kurti, ghagra and either a suthan or the Punjabi salwar (trousers). In modern times, the ghagra is worn by women in parts of Haryana, rural parts of south West Punjab, parts of Himachal Pradesh and during performances of Giddha in East Punjab.
Salwar or Shalwar is cloth worn from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately. It is the lower-garment of the Shalwar kameez suit which is widely-worn in South Asia. It is known for its lively hues, rich fabrics, and embroidery. It is also the national dress of Pakistan, and since the later 1960s with the salwar being used in government offices in Pakistan. The outfit has been a part of Punjabi tradition for centuries. Salwar can be distinguished from the Punjabi suthan which is shorter than the salwar. Salwar originated in Central Asia and its use spread to South Asia.
Teeyan is the regional name of the festival of Teej which is celebrated throughout Punjab which is dedicated to the onset of the monsoon and focuses on daughters and sisters.
In the ancient Punjab region, people wore cotton clothing. Both men and women wore knee-length tops. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees. Both male and female wore a dhoti around the waist. Modern Punjabi dress has retained this outfit but over its long history has added other forms of dress.
The people of Jammu have the following traditional clothing:
Punjabi tandoori cooking was born out of the clay oven known as the tandoor. According to Macveigh [2008] the Punjab tandoor originated in the local region. It is a clay oven and is traditionally used to cook Punjabi cuisine, from the Punjab region in Pakistan and northwestern India. It is traditional to have tandoors in courtyards of homes in the Punjab to make roti, naan and tandoori chicken. In rural Punjab, it is also traditional to have communal tandoors.
The Punjabi bhathi is an oven used in the Punjab region. The bhathi is similar to a masonry oven.
Aawat pauni is a traditional Punjabi gathering of peasants and farm workers to harvest crops collectively, and was popular during the harvesting period around Vaisakhi.
Kurti top is an upper garment worn in the Indian subcontinent encompassing waistcoats, jackets and blouses.
There are two types of Saraiki shalwar suits which originate in the southern area of Punjab, Pakistan. These are the Bahawalpuri shalwar suit and the Multani shalwar suit. The two main suits from that area.
Sadri, also known as a Waskat or Bandi, is a vest-jacket worn by men in South Asia, while women sometimes wear a similar waistcoat known as a Koti. In Europe and America, the sadri became known as a Nehru vest.
Chowk-poorana or Chowkpurana is folk art practised in Punjab, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. In Uttar Pradesh, the term chowk-poorana refers to decorating the floor with various designs using flour and rice and also the walls using designs specific to the region.
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