Yosemite bowline

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Yosemite bowline
Yosemitebowline.jpg
NamesYosemite bowline, Bowline with a Yosemite finish
Category Loop
Related bowline
Releasing Non-jamming
ABoK #1015, #1436

A Yosemite bowline is a loop knot often perceived as having better security [1] than a bowline. If the knot is not dressed correctly, it can potentially collapse into a noose, [1] [2] [3] [4] however testing reveals this alternative configuration to be strong and safe as a climbing tie-in. [5]

Contents

A Yosemite bowline is made from a bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, a final round turn and reeve commonly known as a "Yosemite finish." The knot's security is enhanced by preventing the bowline capsizing to form a highly dangerous slip knot. Additional safety is achieved by tying with a tail (see below). When finished, the working end forms a figure eight.

Because of the danger of incorrectly dressing the Yosemite bowline and capsizing it even before it is set, it may be safer and less error-prone to use a standard or double bowline with a backup stopper knot added to the tail, such as a double overhand knot tied around the loop. [3] [4]

The Yosemite finish can be applied to other bowline variants, such as the double bowline.

While the knot's versatility suggests it as a convenient tie-in for attaching a climbing rope to a climber's harness, the figure-of-eight follow through is the most common choice because it is more widely known and more easily checked. [6] The Mountaineering Handbook is one of the few texts that suggest that the Yosemite bowline is better for this purpose. Suggested benefits of the bowline include being easier to untie after loading or when wet and frozen, and being possible to tie-in with only one hand. [7] [ unreliable source? ] Testing found it a strong knot for the purpose. [8]

It is recommended that any knot which is used to attach a rope to a safety harness is always finished with a stopper knot. A stopper knot, while serving to keep the loose end tidy, will only help to prevent failure of the primary knot, and does not act as a secondary safety knot by itself. It is sometimes said that if enough of a tail is left to tie a stopper knot, the stopper becomes unnecessary. The tail should be a minimum of 10cm but depends on the thickness of the rope. [9]

Tying

How to knot the Yosemite bowline YosemitebowlineBulin1 5.jpg
How to knot the Yosemite bowline

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knot</span> Method of fastening or securing linear material

A knot is an intentional complication in cordage which may be practical or decorative, or both. Practical knots are classified by function, including hitches, bends, loop knots, and splices: a hitch fastens a rope to another object; a bend fastens two ends of a rope to each another; a loop knot is any knot creating a loop; and splice denotes any multi-strand knot, including bends and loops. A knot may also refer, in the strictest sense, to a stopper or knob at the end of a rope to keep that end from slipping through a grommet or eye. Knots have excited interest since ancient times for their practical uses, as well as their topological intricacy, studied in the area of mathematics known as knot theory.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bowline</span> Simple knot used to form a fixed loop at the end of a rope

The bowline is an ancient and simple knot used to form a fixed loop at the end of a rope. It has the virtues of being both easy to tie and untie; most notably, it is easy to untie after being subjected to a load. The bowline is sometimes referred to as king of the knots because of its importance. Along with the sheet bend and the clove hitch, the bowline is often considered one of the most essential knots.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Butterfly loop</span> Knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope

The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. The butterfly loop is an excellent mid-line rigging knot; it handles multi-directional loading well and has a symmetrical shape that makes it easy to inspect. In a climbing context it is also useful for traverse lines, some anchors, shortening rope slings, and for isolating damaged sections of rope.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Trucker's hitch</span> Type of knot

The trucker's hitch is a compound knot commonly used for securing loads on trucks or trailers. The general arrangement, using loops and turns in the rope itself to form a crude block and tackle, has long been used to tension lines and is known by multiple names. Knot author Geoffrey Budworth claims the knot can be traced back to the days when carters and hawkers used horse-drawn conveyances to move their wares from place to place.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marlinespike hitch</span> Type of temporary knot

The marlinespike hitch is a temporary knot used to attach a rod to a rope in order to form a handle. This allows more tension than could be produced comfortably by gripping the rope with the hands alone. It is useful when tightening knots and for other purposes in ropework.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Figure-eight knot</span> Type of stopper knot used in sailing and climbing

The figure-eight knot or figure-of-eight knot is a type of stopper knot. It is very important in both sailing and rock climbing as a method of stopping ropes from running out of retaining devices. Like the overhand knot, which will jam under strain, often requiring the rope to be cut, the figure-eight will also jam, but is usually more easily undone than the overhand knot.

The figure-eight or figure-of-eight knot is also called the Flemish knot. The name figure-of-eight knot appears in Lever's Sheet Anchor; or, a Key to Rigging. The word "of" is nowadays usually omitted. The knot is the sailor's common single-strand stopper knot and is tied in the ends of tackle falls and running rigging, unless the latter is fitted with monkey's tails. It is used about ship wherever a temporary stopper knot is required. The figure-eight is much easier to untie than the overhand, it does not have the same tendency to jam and so injure the fiber, and is larger, stronger, and equally secure.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Figure-eight loop</span> Type of knot

Figure-eight loop is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving.

The Flemish loop or figure-eight loop is perhaps stronger than the loop knot. Neither of these knots is used at sea, as they are hard to untie. In hooking a tackle to any of the loops, if the loop is long enough it is better to arrange the rope as a cat's paw.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double bowline</span> Type of loop knot

A double bowline is a type of loop knot. Instead of the single turn of the regular bowline, the double bowline uses a round turn. This forms a more secure loop than a standard bowline.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing harness</span> Item of climbing equipment

A climbing harness is a piece of equipment that allows a climber to tie in to the safety of a rope. It is used in rock and ice climbing, abseiling, and lowering; this is in contrast to other activities requiring ropes for access or safety such as industrial rope work, construction, and rescue and recovery, which use safety harnesses instead.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stopper knot</span> Knot that forms a fixed thicker point to prevent unreeving

A stopper knot is a knot that creates a fixed thicker point on an otherwise-uniform thickness rope for the purpose of preventing the rope, at that point, from slipping through a narrow passage, such as a hole in a block. To pass a rope through a block, or hole, is to reeve it. To pull it out is to unreeve it. Stopper knots prevent the rope from unreeving on its own.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Munter hitch</span> Adjustable knot used control friction in a belay system

The Munter hitch, also known as the Italian hitch, mezzo barcaiolo or the crossing hitch, is a simple adjustable knot, commonly used by climbers, cavers, and rescuers to control friction in a life-lining or belay system. To climbers, this hitch is also known as HMS, the abbreviation for the German term Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning half clove hitch belay. This technique can be used with a special "pear-shaped" HMS locking carabiner, or any locking carabiner wide enough to take two turns of the rope.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Triple bowline</span> Type of knot

The triple bowline knot is a variation of the bowline knot. The knot can be applied in emergency situations, such as mountain rescue.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Offset overhand bend</span> Knot used to join two ropes together

The offset overhand bend is a knot used to join two ropes together end-to-end. It is formed by holding two rope ends next to each other and tying an overhand knot in them as if they were a single line. Due to its common use in several fields, this bend has become known by many names, such as thumb knot, openhand knot, one-sided overhand knot or flat overhand bend (FOB), though the terms "one-sided" and "flat" are considered incorrect.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bowline on a bight</span> Knot that makes a pair of fixed-size loops in the middle of a rope

The bowline on a bight is a knot which makes a pair of fixed-size loops in the middle of a rope. Its advantage is that it is reasonably easy to untie after being exposed to load. It is one of the two tie-in knots that are being taught by the German Alpine Club (DAV), generally being considered secure.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Water knot</span> Type of knot

The water knot is a knot frequently used in climbing for joining two ends of webbing together, for instance when making a sling.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Prusik</span> Type of knot

A Prusik is a friction hitch or knot used to attach a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, ziplining, and by arborists. The term Prusik is a name for both the loops of cord used to tie the hitch and the hitch itself, and the verb is "to prusik" or "prusiking". More casually, the term is used for any friction hitch or device that can grab a rope. Due to the pronunciation, the word is often misspelled Prussik, Prussick, or Prussic.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double overhand knot</span> Type of stopper knot

The double overhand knot or barrel knot is simply an extension of the regular overhand knot, made with one additional pass. The result is slightly larger and more difficult to untie. It forms the first part of the surgeon's knot and both sides of a double fisherman's knot. According to The Ashley Book of Knots, "A double overhand knot tied in a cat-o'-nine-tails is termed a blood knot."

The harness knot is a general purpose bend knot used to join two ropes together. The knot can be tied under tension and will not capsize.

References

  1. 1 2 Gommers, Mark (18 November 2017). "An analysis of the structure of Bowlines". Professional Association of Climbing Instructors. Retrieved 2018-10-06. 'Yosemite' variation of the Bowline is an attempt to make the standard #1010 structure more secure. ... care must be taken not to draw the tail up before setting the nipping loop or it may become displaced and compromise the knot.
  2. Prohaska, Heinz (April 1988). "A Safer Bowline for Climbers and Cavers". Nylon Highway. 26: 4–5. Archived from the original on Jan 1, 2009. This idea looks really good, but has a serious and unexpected disadvantage. The parallel parts of the rope in the knot can change their places before it is tightened, and if this happens, the finished knot can work loose and/or turn into a noose—much easier than a regular bowline.
  3. 1 2 Youtube Video of failure with poorly dressed Yosemite bowline: Yosemite Bowline not safe for climbing
  4. 1 2 Grogono, Alan W.; Grogono, David E. "Bowline Knot – How to tie a Bowline Knot – Climbing Knots". Animated Knots. Tighten the Bowline first and then tighten the Yosemite Tie-Off. Failure to do so can result in a slip knot. ... A Safety Knot is essential, e.g., a Double Overhand (Strangle Knot) can be tied around either the adjoining loop (left)
  5. Titt, James (2012-07-16). "Load testing of mis-dressed Yosemite bowline knot" . Retrieved 2016-05-25.
  6. Gaines, Bob; Martin, Jason D. (2014-05-20). Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual. Rowman & Littlefield. ISBN   9781493009626. the uniform nature of the knot enables quick inspection and supervision.
  7. Herman, Abram (2013-07-06). "The 5 Biggest Safety-Related Myths in Rock Climbing". Go Up: The Road to El Cap. Archived from the original on 2018-01-03. Retrieved 2018-10-06.
  8. Connally, Craig (2004). The Mountaineering Handbook. International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press. ISBN   978-0-07-143010-4.
  9. "how to tie in to the rope".