Autoblock

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An autoblock using a Prusik knot on the left and an autoblock using the Machard knot ("autoblock knot") on the right. Prusik and Autoblock Loops.png
An autoblock using a Prusik knot on the left and an autoblock using the Machard knot ("autoblock knot") on the right.
AutoblockBagi.JPG

An autoblock (or autobloc or "third hand") is a rope device used in climbing and caving for both rappelling (downward) and ascending (upward). [1] [2]

Contents

While rappelling, it slides freely down the rope when pushed downward by the hand, allowing a controlled descent, but jams in the event of a sudden drop or loss of control, stopping the descent. This prevents uncontrolled falls in the event of an accident in which the abseiler loses control of the rope. [3] For ascending, it likewise can be pushed up the rope manually when unweighted, but jams and holds when weighted by the body.

It is made using a friction hitch around the rope, connected by a carabiner to the climber's harness, and may be combined with other climbing equipment for further safety. [4] For instance, it is typically used as a backup while rappelling using a tube belay device. [1]

The term autoblock is also used for a specific type of friction hitch, [5] [2] [6] which is also known as a French prusik or Machard knot, named after its inventor, Serge Machard. [7] [8]

Other friction hitches that can be used to build an autoblock system include the Prusik knot, Klemheist knot, and Bachmann knot.

The Ashley Book of Knots #505.

See also

Related Research Articles

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Icicle hitch</span> Type of knot

An icicle hitch is a knot that is used for connecting to a post when weight is applied to an end running parallel to the post in a specific direction. This type of hitch will hold its place even when holding a substantial load on a smooth surface. One can even suspend from a tapered post with this knot.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Blake's hitch</span> Type of knot

The Blake's hitch is a friction hitch commonly used by arborists and tree climbers as an ascending knot. Unlike other common climbing hitches, which often use a loop of cord, the Blake's hitch is formed using the end of a rope. Although it is a stable knot, it is often backed up with a stopper knot, such as a figure-of-eight knot, for safety. It is used for both ascending and descending, and is preferred by many arborists over other hitches, such as the taut-line hitch, as it is less prone to binding.

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A Prusik is a friction hitch or knot used to attach a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, ziplining, and by arborists. The term Prusik is a name for both the loops of cord used to tie the hitch and the hitch itself, and the verb is "to prusik". More casually, the term is used for any friction hitch or device that can grab a rope. Due to the pronunciation, the word is often misspelled Prussik, Prussick, or Prussic.

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Single-rope technique (SRT) is a set of methods used to descend and ascend on the same single rope. Single-rope technique is used in caving, potholing, rock climbing, canyoning, roped access for building maintenance and by arborists for tree climbing, although to avoid confusion in the tree climbing community, many have taken to calling it "stationary" rope technique.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Belay device</span> Mechanical piece of climbing equipment

A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. Belay devices act as a friction brake, so that when a climber falls with any slack in the rope, the fall is brought to a stop.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Z-drag</span> Method of increasing the pull on a rope

A Z-Drag or Z-Rig is an arrangement of lines and pulleys, effectively forming a block and tackle, that is commonly used in rescue situations. The basic arrangement results in pulling the hauling end 3 times the distance the load is moved, providing a theoretical mechanical advantage of three to one. In actual practice the advantage will be reduced by friction in the pulleys or carabiners. The advantage will also be reduced if the pull on the hauling end is not parallel to the direction the load moves in. The name comes from the fact that the arrangement of lines is roughly Z shaped. Besides the mechanical advantage to pulling, it also uses only part of the total length of the rope for the block and tackle arrangement.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Figure 8 (climbing)</span> Device for abseiling

The figure 8 belay device is a piece of metal in the shape of an 8 with one large end and one small end.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Distel hitch</span>

Distel hitch is a friction hitch knot used to attach a carabiner to a rope, allowing a climber to descend or ascend. The knot is similar to the prusik knot, however it grips the rope more consistently, making for increased climber control.

References

  1. 1 2 "6-Step Guide to Rappelling with an Autobloc Backup". Devils Lake Climbing Guides. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  2. 1 2 Gaines, Bob; Martin, Jason D. (2014-05-20). Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual. Rowman & Littlefield. ISBN   9781493009626. Sometimes called the "third hand," the autoblock is ... friction hitches like the prusik, klemheist, and autoblock
  3. "How to Tie and Use an Autoblock Knot for Climbing" . Retrieved 2015-04-24.
  4. "6-Step Guide to Rappelling with an Autoblock Backup" . Retrieved 2015-04-24.
  5. "Canyoneering 101 - Autoblock | The Dye Clan". dyeclan.com. Retrieved 2018-07-09. The term "autoblock" is kind of ambiguous as it refers to both the knot and the system. As such, you can create an autoblock system with the autoblock knot, a Klemheist (French Prusik), or a valdôtain tresse.
  6. Rock climbing . Kidd, Timothy W., Hazelrigs, Jennifer., Wilderness Education Association (U.S.). Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics. 2009. ISBN   9780736068024. OCLC   251227945. Examples of appropriate hitches include autoblock, klemheist, and Prusik{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  7. "The Machard Knot" . Retrieved 2016-10-20. the Knot invented in 1961 by Serge Marchard, a young climber from Marseille
  8. Vola, Eric (2016-06-03). "Le noeud Machard et son histoire - CAF Marseille Provence" (in French). Archived from the original on 2016-06-03. Retrieved 2018-07-09. [from French] Serge had sent André a letter on December 28, 1961 which among other things included the description of his knot. The two diagrams of his letter are reproduced here.